docc

DB, That's good to know. I thought the plaques wre some stupid US federal thing. Now that I know they are genuine MOT they look even better hanging in my toolbox , well and good off the road. I feel better knowing my cans are not being used on the UK motorways and my chance of getting 'nicked' by your constabulary is pretty slim! Good to hear from you, docc

I use the CRG also . They give the bike that loong looow loooook. The elbows aren't seen but the little buggers are quite convex. Objects in mirror are WAY closer than they appear. Still, if you don't expect to differentiate between types of cars (you can tell if the blue lights are flashing!) you get use to the small images (daytime running lights help). I had my bar end weights machined by a local shop to accept the mirror without an adapter. The mount is very secure plus I kept the damping of the original bar-ends( plus added an ounce of lead shot up each clip-on). The machining added $85!!! but the reduction in vibration is just outstanding. If the extra $$ is worth it to you , I have a machine drawing dimensioned for the lathe work. E-mail if you want it. --------------------- docc 2000 V11 Sport Honda GB 500 98 Ford SVT Contour

You know a guy loves his Guzzi when he shares his toothbrush with her!

Konrad, when you get the Mistrals on, make one of those mpeg movies for 'fileshare'. Love to hear your sport in a fly-by!

So, John, how much did your speedo change from 170/60 to 160/60? And your impression of the handling change...? Thanks,docc

So what are you guys going with for 'correct' sag? BTW, Lex, I'd love to see a picture of your V11 with those red legs! docc

Help me out: the way I read this the '01 sport has Sach's rear shock? (my '00 v11s is WP). I'm reading differant spring rates, usually in kg. What is the stock spring rate? Does anyone know what weight rider the stock springs are set up for? Looking to optimize my stock Marz/WP, docc

Carl, That's a good point and I have to agree. I just couldn't think of any other reason why that change would have made any difference. I didn't expect it to change how the bike ran. I really did it more in the interest of purity and the cafe aesthetic. I have read that the check valve on the evap setup can cause tank suction. Although I hadn't experienced that, I wonder - could that vacuum affect fuel delivery? If so that may be another source of the lean condition common to these motors. Thanks for the feedback, docc

Ill bet if a guy had all the hardware , software and time he could really tune the wildcats out of this motor. In the meanwhile, if your bike pings and runs hot a little tweak on the TPS really does wonders. And this for very little investment . When starting with my '00 sport it would pop (intake backfire?) pulling away from a stop. Very discocerting as the bike would try to stand up and change direction. Lousy in a left hander. This grouchy behavior quit with the removal of the carbon cans. The only explanation I have is that the stock setup runs a vacuum tude from one intake to the other . That can't be good - to have the intakes tied together. There are some obvious drawbacks to the mod but, otherwise, some benefits. Tune well, ride well! docc

It's a miracle! Finally, Igot in 200 miles in very cold weather today. The 6-speed shifted wonderfully! I moved the linkage closer to the pivot (the lower position) and this has made an unbelievable differ ence. Still dry after using RTV on the shaft bosses Thanks for the help, guys! Ride well, docc

I had an offer of the software. I could tell ya where I got it but then I'd hafta............no, never mind that. At the time I had no 'puter. Now with a pc I wonder - does the v11 have a USB port? Or some other kind of jack? Jeez, that would sure beat 'backprobing' . Later bikes the ecu is mounted with the connector down making it even a little tougher (What's that up-probing?) Dave Richardson's book "Guzziology" is just invaluable. The FI section is a bit confusing but that's certainly no fault of Dave's. His advice on synchronizing at the off-idle point really smooths the shift transitions. Taking all the extra time to get the synch PERFECT makes an unbelievable difference. That and richening the mixture reasonably makes these bikes so much less fussy. Ride well, docc

To paraphrase, "around here 'off road' is interpreted very loosely!"

You guys are absolutuly right . The Mistral cans shown on hteir site are definately the Guzzi cans. Well, except for the beautiful red oval plaques. My little plaques actually look pretty interesting hanging in the toolbox in front of a v11 sport brochure. Hey, that's off-road, isn't it? Look well ahead, docc

The Mistral cans I've seen have a very nice glossy finish compared to my 'competition' cans. In construction they look more like my neighbor's (m900) Termignoni bu MGNA said (unofficially) they didn't think so. I'll look at the Mistral site for comparison. The Guzzi cans really sound great and they don't look ' bad ' just don't compare well with the Mistral ovals I saw. These were quite a bit more expensive , too.

Does anyone know who makes the v11 accessory "off road" cans ? Are they still selling them with the "off road" plaques?

I was viewing some posts that started with voigtstr that went cold last month. I thought it was worth reposting to keep awareness up. If your Guzzis running hot its not happy . Read," it could eat itself up!" Of course these bikes are set up lean to get through Ellis Island. Pinging is dangrous detonation that erodes the piston tops . New , my sport pinged on some fuels, some conditions. I synched the throttle bodies, removed the carbon cans ( off road use only) , and 'tweaked ' the throttle position sensor. Voila! No lean behavior at all! My dealer copped some set up from some 'tuner.' It was so rich my plugs sooted. I think he was trying to fuel cool my mtor to prevent an engine claim. It would routinely 'pop' upon hot restart (like ata gas stop) and blow the right throttle body off! Very embarassing and annoying. Finally, I reset the TPS at a more conservative setting. No pops, no hot or lean condition signs (no piston erosion ?) . The procedure requires a digital volt meter, "back probing" the computer ( putting a couple straight pins in right connectors ) and setting the TPS. The ECU basically sets the curve a little richer as if the motor was at alittle higher rpm. Very easy very cheap , very effective, Why don't 'dealers' (I want to call them pushers- same thing-right?) do this? My dealers' set-up philosophy ( Mixture, sychronization) seemed to be , "hey, it starts ,it runs-don't mess with it!" We can do better than that guys! These bikes run GREAT when they're set up right. Don't let a lean condition eat your motor! Let the big dog eat! docc

Mike, Unfortunately a new case won't fix the shaft leak. My (former ) dealer told me there is no seal there. He epoxied my first case to seal it saying that would fix it forever . Then the case was renewed and, voila, the drips. I actually fashioned a plug for the lower shaft from a Honda access plug and RTV'd it in. The upper shaft has a cutaway in the case and won't hold a plug. Just liberal RTV there. My (new) dealer suggested the shafts can be RTV'd from the inside to good effect. But,again, apparently no actual seal and I guess the shafts are not press fit. What wre they thinking? Or were they? The leak from the back sounds more serious. My last reassembly was with 'Yamabond' (blue , I believe). Evidentally a vast improvement over the original olive oil and pesto based stuff. What did your dealer use? Don't get caught bent over smelling like 90wt around the Harley guys. docc

Mike, Where's the drip showing up? Even after my dealer buttoned up my new cases mine still dripped at the side case on the left. Make sure the two crush washers are good on the shift throw adjuster just in front of the input shaft for the shifter . Also there are the two notoriuos shafts that pentrate the case. one is visible below the starter. The upper one requires moving the starter out of the way. I've sealed mine with some good high temp RTV after cleaning them thoroughly with q-tips and solvent. Runs dry now ( like, first time ever). Don't know how long it will last but I'll keep you posted. Look well ahead, docc

What , is there no Burgerking in Mandello? So the people we'd have working the drive thru here assembled my sport over there ? Painful! I agree with this approach to sorting these bikes. Remove, clean, lube, replace.(Zen and the Art....) The bikes keep getting better and better (well, usually!) Well fettled, as they say. Imeasured the shift trhrow with the bolt in different positions . The result surprised me a little. The closer hole is the longer throw. But not by much. Th throw in the upper hole is 4 cm. At the lower(closer ) is 4.5 cm . Not much , but, hey, I switched mine to the closer (more leverage ) and will hope for the best. Now if the rain would just quit we could ride!(fettle-fettle-fettle, doesn't anybody ride anymore?) Look well ahead, docc

Mike, Here's wishing the perfect weather , perfect roads to indulge in your reunion. Looks kike 3 mo is a standard service period for the 6-speed. These bike's are a sweet, sweet ride, yes? BELISSIMO!! docc

I guess we should not be too amazed (annoyed but not amazed): Guzzi builds its first new gearbox in three decades and we have to help sort it out. I'll sure try the grease, continuing to adjust all the adjustments and hope for the best. There's 19500 on the bike now with warranty until August. I worry that replacing the box will just give me the same problems two years later out of warranty. Catch 22. Cycle World said their " shift quality degraded' leading to changing their gear sets. Does anyone know - is this the problem they were having? They said something about improper heat treatment on the gears. Hey, but when this bike's on..... she's like that fussy girl that once you get her on the dance floor - it's magic!!

Rich, When you shorten the throw- you do this by moving the linkage to the top position on the shift lever? Or is it the hole closer in to the shift lever? I'm riding in Alpinstar Strada boots. I had some Diadora which very cool ( as in stylish) but shifting was really vague so I know what your saying is true. Believe me , I keep hammering my shift technique thinking that must be it. This all started at 16500 (always the sweetest, most perfect shifts before) after getting the v11 back from 7 weeks at the dealer which entailed changing the trans cases for a leak . Appararently a crack at the top mounting web. Both the dealer and MGNA suggested I had fallen out of familiarity with the bike . But now after 3000 more miles and concentrating on the event it still crops up constantly. Maybe changing that link position will be 'it.' I've had it in the top pos'n thiking that would give me more leverage. Thanks for your help! Look well ahead, docc

I am due for fork oil change and had heard ( Guzziology- Dave) thicker oil and stiffer springs are a plus. At 160 pounds riding v11 s aren't the stock springs about right? Your setting your sag at 1"? You mentioned Ohlins. That's stock on the Scura but the Lemans and Sport are WP, yes? I'm assuming you changed over to the Ohlins. Is this big bucks?

My 2000 v11 s has developed an annoying habit of offering me thin air in place of the next gear. Of course , at first I thought it was just me. Then MGNA directed me to the adjuster for the shift lever throw. You know how it is. You adjust something and think. "there, isn't that better!" then a few miles down the road it does it again! The archives show alot of discussion of return springs. Mine's never stuck ( I hope it didn't hear me say that!), but I/m finding it'll miss a gear if I shift in rapid succession. Makes me think "retrn spring." Has there been a new and improved return spring fitted to the later models? Can the shift throw be adjusted to finally cure this ill? Stay tuned sport fans!

None of my beer sits around long enough to sour. At any temperature, Fahrenheit or Celsius. Maybe if I'd set that '75 Cafe Gold Wing up with straights instead of progressives, I'd still have the thing . . . . . . nah.