docc

Moderator edit: Due to an ongoing confusion with another "idea" with a very similar name, the title and references to this important "idea" have been edited to: Kentucky Spine Raid spring Kentucky Spine Raid KSR sKSR Just to clarify, if possible, this is an entirely different "idea" than the longstanding "South'n SpineRaid" carrying on in Tellico Plains,Tennessee, the weekend after (US ) Labor Day:

"Tenni Green " . . . deliziosa ! @footgoose's awesome Tenni at a South'n SpineRaid

Trying to hone in possible weather for this > spring < thing . . .

@KINDOY2, any luck with the BASF Glasurit Tenni Green code that @p6x linked to @michael8888's 2013 post: Stock#: 907250 the paint is the GLASURIT- 55 FORMULA

In this State, the seller must sign a statement on the title transfer that the indicated odometer reading is the "actual" mileage, or that it is "not." I know of sellers that always check "not" upon transfer to be relieved of any accountability. That this action forever compromises the vehicle's history and value, of course, makes this practice just as unethical as deliberately understating the mileage.

The history of green Moto Guzzi reportedly dates to Ing. Carcano's racing management in the late '40s and '50s. It has been said that Carcano was so obsessed with weight that he forbade painting the race bikes. Metal was left in the raw state or primed, commonly with zinc chromate (which exhibits a more greenish-yellow, perhaps the 'reference" for the metallic "Legnano Green " applied to the original Telaio Rosso V7 Sport of early to mid '70s and, later, at the introduction of the V11 Sport). What we commonly call "Tenni Green" is a luscious, rich satin spruce green (more blue-green than yellow-green) introduced on the 2002 V11 Tenni. Since then, this rich, spruce green has been applied to Stelvio, Griso, Centenary Special Editions, and now the V100 Mandello (although that "Mandello Green" looks decidedly glossier) . . . Perhaps it has become as enigmatic of "Guzzi" as our v-twin? I wonder if it is only the V11 community that refers to this as "Tenni Green?"

Those are the bulb holders for the face illumination. You can carefully pry the rubber flange up, going around the circumference, and the holder will slip out bringing the bulb with it.

Is that 700 miles? Or "speedometer quit at 700 miles . . . "

It is really not difficult. Yet, reliably getting the ECU to connect can be fiddly. Once you have the correct cables, it is a matter of following the sequencing, sometimes repeatedly to get connected. It will be very telling if you find your CO Fuel Trim set some thing like -27 (negative twenty-seven) like mine was from the factory. I've seen settings of -75 and even negative triple digits. Correcting this to zero (or positive) is essential.

This is a really good question. Short answer is, yes it is the fuel mixture. Yet, really only very significant at idle and near-closed throttle positions. In my experience, this can be enough to help at those sensitive rpm where our V11 is prone to stumble. Combined with the fact that all of the V11 CO Fuel Trim settings I have seen (in The States) have been deep into double digits negative. Bringing this to zero, or even double digits positive, has proven to smooth out the tendency to cough. The true fuel/ ignition parameters are derived by the map. Be certain the throttle plate is ABSOLUTELY closed to baseline the TPS (to the point of holding it closed or zip-tying it) in order that the fuel/ignition curves are fully indexed to the throttle openings. That the factory map has so much ignition advance, at the lowest throttle openings, makes that +/- 2800 rpm range extremely sensitive requiring that all of the other parameters (valve lash, plugs, CO Trim, TPS, throttle body balance, air/fuel filters) are critically seen to. I suspect changing to a freer flowing exhaust simply made all of this more sensitive yet. While we might consider that Throttle Body Balance could be the one main thing that changed with the canisters, to only balance the throttle bodies would be like picking up a 6-string guitar to tune, then only tuning one string . . .

That's it! https://www.lonelec.com/product/guzzidiag-3pin-interface-cable-kit/ Consider, also, the breakout harness to set your TPS. Do you have a way to balance your throttle bodies?

Have you checked where your CO Fuel Trim is set now?

@red lion, did you only change the canisters? Not the collector/crossover as well?

It took my a long time, and insight from The Designer, to appreciate why our tail section is what it is . . .

There are numerous contributors to the cough. Often, performing a "Decent tune-up" addresses it adequately. Simplest solution is not to lug our V11 along sub-4000 rpm. There are other significant reasons not to, as well. It may not actually be "lean" as much as the map at that point has significantly more ignition advance than necessary. @Lucky Phil showed us this clearly.

I'm going on record saying . . .

Those names all seem like such stark, ordinary "English." @guzzler hasn't been putting us on with all Poonyang and Nayook-to-Noojee business ?!?

Okay, so, that is not the period-correct factory accessory Stucchi flyscreen (not sure what that is). Left side levers are also intact along with the sideplate eagle badge. Starter cover and sidestand (wire) "lever" intact along with the sidestand "stop." Aftermarket exhaust crossover (Mistral?). The instrument needles looked completely faded out, as they would if they were original. The footpegs are a modified type with a slight "drop." Forks are raised in the triple trees (maybe ten mm?) which perhaps shows an effort to set the suspension. Eagle badge present on the top clamp (the only other to check for would be on the alternator cover). I cannot make out the shock/ spring, or even see the remote compression adjuster on the left side above the throttle. Still cannot understand the loose wires on the right that look like they have been abrading the gearbox finish. A view under the seat and service history/owner history would be good next steps. Overall, looking like a good Sport with several "changes." Call them "improvements" if they are the things you would do yourself . . .

A few things I can see from the one image: Very clean surface condition, original right side brake levers intact (a good sign it has remained upright on that side, especially since there is an aftermarket headguard which, sometimes, can suggest a tip-over), original turn signals including the front "extensions, a nice custom seat that was built to retain the passenger seat cover, rear "hugger" and swingarm tips intact, tank/chin-pad and side plate eagle all look in good shape. There appears to be a period correct factory accessory Stucchi Luigi-made color-matched front flyscreen and some nice (perhaps Mistral?) exhaust canisters. The rear fender has been cut off below the license plate and the clip-ons converted to handlebars (which causes an odd throttle cable routing). For whatever reason , the clutch and front brake fluid reservoirs look painted fat black (I would prefer to see the level and condition of those fluids). [edit: those look like soft covers over the reservoirs. I am not sure why people do that.] There is some wiring hanging below the right sidecover that I would endeavor to investigate. A left side image, plus an image of the instruments. and a clear image of what is under the seat would be very helpful . . .

Hi, @Robertguske! Welcome to the best place in the world for the care&feeding of your V11 Sport! Let me see if I can get your image to display. If you have any more images, they will help us suggest what questions to ask about the bike. Things like, "Is the VIN in the gearbox recall range?" [I see it is a facebook image, so probably cannot get it to display here ]. . . https://scontent-ord5-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t45.5328-4/273178129_4614528435339984_7365940288931500422_n.jpg?stp=dst-jpg_p720x720&_nc_cat=110&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=c48759&_nc_ohc=oQRq0mW5noYAX8kHlMI&_nc_ht=scontent-ord5-2.xx&oh=00_AfDsFuixrxiKyGoVkMOktibFDS7qYd7lj0694cE10-XcFg&oe=6448F836

Just for clarification: Not a Moto Guzzi V11?

Which ECU version? (For example, our V11 are 15M or 15RC)

@Guzzimax, This my be the critical question. Have these PC545 been on "trickle chargers" or a "Battery Tender?"

Let's say that image is "for reference only." I would rather (never again) "lead to the creation of a problem on the road ." Waddington has hunted me down before . . .

And, yet, I need new front tire. And "should" bleed the brakes, check/change wheel bearings, maybe change the brake pads, and otherwise have to remove and retorque the axle and caliper mounts. "What could possibly go wrong ?" Waddington might say, "About 400 miles of road time will tell the tale."