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My impression is that 85ºC is a standard rating temperature, something approaching maximum operating temperature. At "room" temperature or common ambient temps, the relay could likely be rated much, much higher. But then fail at operating temperature. We have seen some very hot readings from under-rated relays in position #5. Also, it has been noted that the higher maximum operating temperature of a given relay "may" represent a higher quality relay. What I would like to see reconciled is the various amperage ratings we are seeing on datasheets that sometimes specify "nominal", "resistive/resistance", "switching", "inrush", "continuous", "carry" . . . Presently, I now have doubts that the Picker and the CIT (same company, as @al_roethlisberger noted) are actually capable of sustaining a continuous amperage over their contacts at the rating they are publishing.

> From DigiKey, regarding Switching versus Carrying current: • Maximum Switching CurrentThe maximum current which can safely beswitched by the contacts. AC and DCcurrent maximums may differ.• Maximum Carrying CurrentThe maximum current which after closingor prior to opening, the contacts cansafely pass without being subject totemperature rise in excess of their designlimit, or the design limit of othertemperature sensitive components in therelay (coil, springs, insulation, etc.). Thisvalue is usually in excess of the maximumswitching current. >From Pickering, regarding current (amperage): Switch Current When a relay is hot switched, the switch current is the maximum current that the relay can sustain when being opened or closed and not sustain contact damage. Carry Current If a relay's contacts are already closed, the relay may be able to sustain a higher current than the switch current. This is called the carry current. The carry current is normally limited by contact resistance, which causes the contacts to heat up. When a relay is carrying a current greater than the switch current, the relay must not be opened until the current is reduced.

It would be helpful if the datasheet language and ratings were standardized between manufacturers, but they are obviously not. I remember learning the distinction between the higher "inrush current" rating and the more desirable "continuous current" rating. This helped explain why some seemingly high rated relays were really just typical 10/20 rated Micro-ISO.

The Panasonic datasheet is a good comparison. Notice the phrase that accompanies the temperature specification, "maximum carrying current . . . continuous." Are we being deceived by looking at "resistive load" or "switching current" and these phrases are actually the ratings for inrush current and can vastly overstate the contacts' continuous current ratings? @Kiwi_Roy questions . . .

Yes. The "switching current" is the continuous load rating. if I understand the ratings correctly. In that case, these relays are actually only rated 10 amps N.C. and 20 amps N.O. That certainly would not qualify as "High Current" relays. gain, the datasheets are not standardized and can be nearly impossible to compare . . .

Re: Relays - Isn't the "Contact Rating" of 35/20 for the inrush current and the "Switching Current" the continuous load rating? In that case, you have relays rated 20/10. Re: Fuses - the #8 fuse was used on the early V11 for the Electric Fuel Tap, unused position with Manual Fuel Tap V11. Take a close look at your #3 green 30 amp fuse. Are there heat signs of melting and the case starting to spread? Re: Battery - I've never seen a battery turned sideways in a V11. It looks like that necessitates some "extensions" of the wiring, including main cables? Is that an unshielded positive junction behind the battery on the right of the bike?

I fiddle with my sat-nav far too much to mount it on the brake/throttle side. Garmin even designed their motorcycle units to operate with the left hand.

To honor these beginnings, one must know of Claudio Torri . . . http://www.parisdakar.it/claudio-torri-dakar-1985/#/?playlistId=0&videoId=0 https://www.facebook.com/MotoGuzzi/videos/my-dakars-with-moto-guzzi/323475908644789/

Bravo, man. You know we are all pulling for you!

I seriously hope this image suggests a good closure to this "saga" @cash1000 . . .

The closest oily source to the starter is the crankcase vent return line from the side of the spine frame to the sump. This is routed across the starter under a relief in the plastic cover. If that became abraded from chafing, perhaps it might affect the solenoid? There is also the nefarious primary crankcase vent that comes up from the back of the engine just inboard of the starter. Worth looking at as contamination sources . . .

You say that right as I feel like I'm getting mine sorted . . .

This "Twenty Years Ago " business can be a bit unsettling . . . Homecoming day, August 3, 2000

I thought it might be helpful to post this reference image of the bolt in question as it looks from the right side of the bike, looking forward, to the inside of the Frame Side Plate . . .

The angry parrot face of the Multistrada is just lost on me. What ever happened to Ducati = Drop-dead Gorgeous? . . . .

Yeah, I recall there is "some disassembly required" to get to the magnets . . . At which point the inspection will be telling. This starter was locked:

Just enough rust on the threads to suggest something to prevent corrosion. I would just use grease, but @MartyNZ posted the real-deal stuff . . .

It's times like these that I turn to the Chief Sparky, @Kiwi_Roy . . .

Good question . . . Someone here knows what to take off to visually inspect the magnets . . .

Haha . . . too late!

Ah, the hammer . . . Specifically, the copper hammer. Something I learned of from @Chuck. It has become something of a talisman and a symbol of perseverance among certain Guzzisti . . .

It took me a long time to understand the Honda GB500. That guy just doesn't get it. Honda did not build it to sell. It was only sold in the USA? Yet, I read early on that the Japanese "built it for themselves." I was, like, "Huh, but they weren't sold there" . . . (Many) Years later I read an interesting piece by designer Glen Kerr talking about another Japanese motorcycle that "failed miserably in the market." He deftly explained that model was a "corporate pride" project and that the teams involved with producing it benefited immeasurably beyond the market performance. Suddenly, the Honda GB500 made sense to me. "They built it for themselves. " For their corporate pride. And for the motivation to carry on and build impressive models for the world to enjoy. Models that would be successful in the marketplace. The GB500? It is like a striking, and complex, piece of jewelry. And, as Gordan Jennings said of it back in the day, "Equal to a gentlemanly pace."

With 300 miles between the two this weekend (Glorious! ) . . . . . . I find the V11 a bit more challenging for the knees and the GB harder on the wrists. Luscious, enticing beasts . . .

Correct, but your wiring harness gives you both a left, and separate right, turn signal indicators (instead of the Battery/Charging Light) ! < . . . . > Still, all V11 should start and run either with the sidestand up (in or out of gear) and with the sidestand down in neutral (with power supplied through the middle/#3 relay that is activated by the Neutral Switch.