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@arveno, you got me thinking: If the sidestand is down, yet the bike is in neutral - the Neutral Switch should light up the Neutral Light and pull in the middle/#3 relay to allow the bike to start and run on the sidestand while in neutral . . .

Revisiting that thread reminded me that both @stewgnu and @Tinus89 had similar intermittent start issues that were revealed by inspecting the starter magnets . . .

[ Just a pointer on those "shared" links to click on the top-most arrow on the right to go directly to the specific linked post. Clicking on the topic title in the center of the window opens the thread at post # 1. ] For example, click on the upper right arrow, below, to go directly to one of @Kiwi_Roy's brilliant posts complete with his Startus Interuptus Booster Relay diagram:

For certain the battery is holding up to the repeated start attempts? Regarding the ignition switch, look at that blurry image I posted above. It shows the two cross-head screws that hold the switch in place from below. Removing them will separate the switch from the lock mechanism. The switch can be opened by prying the catch tabs over the white nibs and the contacts exposed to be cleaned and treated, as well as inspecting the wiring for strain damage. Stand by, I'll fetch up a thread with images . . .

Check the 30 amp fuse (#3 from the front).

Klüber Staburags has its place on the V11, as well . . .

Okay, progress with the troubleshooting! That main ground is just a little fiddly, but worth the effort to remove, scrape/roughen the surfaces, seal with Vaseline® or Caig DeOxit®. Probably going to be considering the Ignition Switch next . . .

1) Yes, the PC545 is the OEM battery for the V11 series. 2) The blade connection is the solenoid. Simply slide the connector off and attach a shielded clip, then touch the other end to the battery positive. The starter should spin normally. (Did I mention to make absolute certain the bike is in neutral?) I your video, it sounds to me like the starter solenoid engages, but the starter does not turn. A weak battery will certainly act like this. And also may start the bike once, but not the next time. Combined with a weak starter, this condition becomes doubly frustrating. The method of tapping the starter is concerning as this could dislodge the already dodgy magnets. So, jumper test: next . . .

Checking my nearest dealer, I see they have a "sale pending" on a V100 Mandello S . . . Shore-do love that Tennis Green.

Not at all. But 12.04 volts for an AGM is ded, Jim. The Odyssey would require "conditioning" to restore. Not sure what to do with that battery except go by the manufacturer's charging recommendation. The Odyssey would never recover without charging it with 6 or more amps. EDIT: HOLD THE PHONE! That battery states : "Must be mounted in the upright position. "

Good question. It has been very popular to use RedlIne Shockproof in these gearboxes (and the bevel drive). The stuff is so thick and clingy (most especially the pink Heavy Weight) that so much stays trapped upon draining that it is almost impossible not to overfill. Particularly if using the specified volume to refill time after time. With the bike standing upright, the fluid level should be no higher than the top of the sight glass. Some would say it is full at the middle of the sight glass. How does yours look?

What kind of battery is it? AGM, and Odyssey in particular, have specific charging parameters.

These tanks suffer expansion. If you were to get that bolt out (and, yes, the tank just slides forward over the rubber frame pucks at the front), it could be quite an event getting the tank back on. Buy beer. Invite friends . . .

Worth noting that the early Short Tank, 1999-2002, with the chin pad does not have the later fragile and fussy fuel line connections. @radguzzi, did you do the simple jump wire test to the starter solenoid (with the bike in neutral, ignition off)? What is that outcome?

Simply releasing the rear tank bolt and chocking up the back of the tank should be enough to slip the side covers out without removing the tank. Shouldn't be necessary to get to the main ground on the back of the gearbox on the right. Remove the seat latch lock and you will find the ground under a bolt on the back of the gearbox. Here is a view from behind for reference:

What oil are you using? Or, maybe more important, what was drained from it?

Yes, those are the adjustments that ensure none of the mechanism fouls against the frame side plate, the starter, or any wires or tubing that may be routed near. Servicing this mechanism is a good starting point. If your gear box is still troublesome, we will go from there.

No need to take the swingarm off. That image is just for reference as you can see the entire mechanism from that angle. Removing the starter is helpful, though. I see what you are referring to, now. The "cap nut" is an eccentric adjuster and should only be set with the shift plate on the bench. Best not to mess with it. The rubber cap covers the Neutral Switch connector.

Hi, @igor! I am not sure what you mean by the "plastic cap" and "second bolt." Here is a view of the mechanism looking from the middle of the bike outward with the swingarm removed (for reference, only). Notice the lock nut on the pivot blot. This must be removed to unscrew the pivot bolt from the frame tab to clean and grease. See, also, the connecting rod and its Heim/ "rose" joints. These should be inspected, lubricated and tight, including the lock nuts on the rod. Adjust the rod length to get the extension arm of the foot lever and the arm on the gearbox input shaft parallel. This is best achieved with the starter off. (Remove the battery negative cable first!) Make sure the arm on the gearbox is also pinched tight. The position of this arm (above on the left, behind the starter) and the length of the connecting rod can be adjusted to ensure the foot lever and entire mechanism swings freely up and down, in every gear, without striking the frame side plate or fouling the backside of the starter. The pivot bolt is screwed into the frame tab tightly enough to allow movement, but limit too much play. The pivot bolt lock nut is then used to fix the pivot bolt in that ideal position. I found that a small "shim" between the foot lever and frame tab helped: Once fully assembled, with the starter in place, check again that the entire mechanism moves freely in every gear without fouling anywhere in the up- and down-swings.

Using the "link" function [--] will display the link, while pasting the URL directly into the reply window displays the video preview.

If it were the clutch safety switch, or its nefarious "bullet connectors", there would not be a peep when the starter button is thumbed. "Locked out." I have seen shifted starter magnets that would still allow the starter to turn, although reluctantly. I think you're still looking at a series of flaky connections. Those grounds are critical so that the start current doesn't try to find its way back through the harness. If the battery is an Odyssey PC545 (OEM), then it should be properly "conditioned" at 12.65 volts (12.84 is 100%). If it drops below 10 volts when the starter tries to engage, it may be toast. There is a date code on it if it's a PC545. (What kind of battery is it?) edit: It occurs to me for you to put a jump wire on the starter solenoid and touch it to the battery positive. MAKE ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN the bike is in neutral, ignition off. Just looking for the starter to spin. If it does, then it is not the starter or the battery, but "things" in between.

If it's YooToob, simply paste the URL into the reply box. Pretty sure personal videos would have to be hosted somewhere and pasted in.

Well, it's not the clutch bullet connectors. More like not enough current. You had said the battery is 12.65v (85% for an AGM). What does the voltage read when it tries to engage the starter? Certainly, it could be the starter magnets have come loose. Yet, I would thoroughly clean and service the main ground at the back of the gearbox on the right as well as both of the starter fastening bolts and where the starter seats against the gearbox to ensure the grounding path is solid.

Very rare to see one that complete and original. Down to the original reflectors and goofy secondary air pump. Even the tail cowl looks intact. (These tend to crack at the mounting points.) As @gstallons said, these languished on showroom floors with asking prices upwards of $4,000US when the 4 cylinder CBR600 "Hurricane" sitting next to it was about the same money. I found mine at a dealer about an hour from me, sitting on his floor for nearly two years. Over 52,000 miles now and still a doll. Met some of my best buds and lifelong friends through the GB500 . . .