docc

Motorcycle content . . . because they are part of our spirit . . .

The importance of the main ground from the battery to the back of the gearbox cannot be overemphasized . . . As well as the additional ground from the regulator case to the engine timing chest:

It will be VERY telling what changes when the green wire is moved from the positive to the negative battery terminal.

A ruse on how hard it has been to grease the front U-joint on the V11 SpineFrame driveshaft.

The alternator rotor of the V11 is crank driven inside its "stator", no belt.

Take that one green wire off the battery positive and report back . . .

Seems the relays are just not connected correctly. What if the green wire to the battery positive was removed?

GU30157400 https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=71&products_id=1186

Amazing, sticky tooth-mesh ("pressure angle" ) grease. Doesn't fling off the hub like my (otherwise trusted) BelRay WaterProof grease. [representative image. The squeamish should avert their eyes] . . .

Good find on the breather hose: yes, replace! The hub area does not look like a gear oil leak to me. I would clean up the hub area, grease the teeth (Klüber Staburags?) and monitor the area to the next tire change.

Plus enough hammers and a Kennedy machinist chest to make us brothers!

Don't! (Do it!). Don't. Do it. Seems a little conflicted. . . Don't do it!

This ^ ^ ^

Put the 86 back where it was on the High Beam relay and leave the Low Beam 86 where you moved it that restored Low Bean function . . .

Done. Thanks for the effort to share these treasures with us, @Twin AH !

Regardless of the relays, how could the low beam come on with the Ignition switch "off" unless the switch were faulty?

This is the image, albeit inverted, with the printed diagram showing two 87 terminals. A later image reveals there are two of these relays added, likely identical (?) . . .

That really does not look like a bad attempt at adding headlight relays. This was not about starting, but taking load off the substandard relays the early V11 were delivered with along with numerous marginal attempts to fit actual High Current micro relays. Problem since solved. It is likely one of those added relays is low beam and the other is high (easy to verify). It is *possible* one the added relays is for the start circuit, but also fairly easy to see if any of that wiring is on the "start" side, not lights. Those "packs of poo tickets" would certainly benefit from a thorough cleaning, treatment (DeOxit?), and tightening. Curious how that, alone might affect the behavior . . .

Great idea - some underseat images . . .

That sequence is my understanding of the factory circuit. More likely that whoever wired that headlight relay cocked it up . . .

Bingo, @Weegie! Good catch! Modified wiring to be investigated. Or bypassed. My Sport used to have added relays for the headlamps. The better solution turned out to be a "VintageCars" LED.

The "monkey paw trap" is certainly different from the early to later V11. Those parts will not swap from a Ballabio into a 2001 Rosso Mandello tail section. *Pretty sure* the mounting is the same, though . . .

Epic recording and video . . . All great, but for the essence, start at 1:04:28 . . .

Certainly a good move to upgrade to the highest quality High Current micro relays available. Not sure what is available in AUS, but here are the two best available most recently (I hope I get these links right the first time): CIT A11CSQ12VDC1.5R Picker Components PC782-1C-12S-R-X That anything would come on with the ignition switch off casts aspersions on the wiring soldered to the switch. It is not that hard to take out and inspect and is also a known fail point on the V11.

Worth a listen, me thinks . . .