docc

"Startus Interuptus " afflicts V11 after the early (1999-2001) and involve the Ignition Switch over the relays. Like so many afflictions, these matters are often "multi-causal" . . . (requiring "some owner involvement" . . . )

My fondest memories of @belfastguzzi: Oh, yer shift spring breaks on the way out for a pint? Pitch her against the Armco and see to it, lad !

As in, five more? Just what are these five Guzzi "sitting about the place", @belfastguzzi?

One wee air bubble trapped in the small, plastic 90º elbow between the reservoir and the master cylinder can be maddening. I recall a week of fighting with this on my front brake. Finally resolved it by anchoring the lever in the "pulled" position overnight to let the air wander up into the reservoir. There may have been some tapping, bumping, and cursing involved . . .

Geez, if "less is more", why is the German phrase so insanely long?!?

This statement by @Speedfrog has me staying with the resistor: "Although very effective, one drawback to using a flyback diode as a voltage surge suppressor in a relay is that it decays the magnetic field of the coil slower than with no diode, taking longer for the relay to open the contacts and allowing arcing and micro-welds to occur between the contacts which could cause the relay to stick overtime when the contacts become welded together. "

That should be fine. Does the fluid level appear in the sight glass on the right side of the gear box when the bike is sitting upright?

It occurs to me that changing your shifting method and, perhaps, just fresh gear box oil might be the simplest solution . . .

Flirting with maximum usable range reminds me to point out the "tip-slosh" method of splashing a bit of the fuel trapped on the right side of the tank over into the left with the fuel tap. This is a strenuous, roadside maneuver having sputtered out of fuel. Standing beside the left side of the bike, it is leaned as far left as strength will allow and then "dipped" abruptly to slosh fuel over to the left. Because the closed loop returns unused fuel to the right side fuel trap, I typically then ride like my hair is on fire toward the nearest fuel station

Most of us learned to shift a manual gearbox by starting with > disengage the clutch < , then move the shift lever. The V11 does far better by applying sufficient pressure with the foot on the shift lever, in the desired direction of the shift, that when the clutch lever is pulled to disengage the clutch, the shift movement occurs spontaneously. I would add that it is helpful to take up all of the "freeplay" in the clutch lever first, as well. Said differently, remove all excess play in both the foot shift lever and the hand clutch lever, keeping significant pressure ("Preload") on the foot shifter, then disengage the clutch. The foot preload will move the shift mechanism very efficiently.

This is true, "small chance of having a problem in the gear box. ". The most likely trouble is with the external shift mechanism getting loose and out of adjustment. Even something as simple as bleeding fresh fluid into the clutch and servicing the hand lever pivot could be helpful. It is notable that the V11 shift mechanism benefits from "preloading" (introducing foot pressure to the shift lever) before releasing the clutch for the gear change. Next most likely failure of the V11 6 speed is breakage of the "pawl spring" on the shift plate (side cover). This, invariably, sticks the gear in first or second. Our illustrious member, @Chuck expertly redesigned this spring. It is available by Messaging our member @Scud. Staying with the internal shift mechanism, esteemed member @Lucky Phil gave us this Shift Improvement tutorial along with the design for the Shift Extender:

You know, I seem to remember spraying that switch from the outside, without taking the "clam-shell" apart (inserting the typical spray tube) and getting the turn signal switch to work better. Did mine, again, just now. Caig DeOxit is magical.

Is that your RedFrame Sport in the image, @milo? What is the year/ build date (build date on the metal tag on the left side of the headstock)? AFAIK, there has only been the one Legnano Green tail section of the early 1999-2001 Sport. There was a more subdued green tank on the 2002 -2003 "Carryover" Sport, but it's tail section was grey. I would be inclined to agree with @audiomick regarding a difference from fade over these years.

https://imgzeit.com/tour

What site is shutting down?

Here is a discussion of adjusting the shift lever to find your hidden 6th gear, @igor. There were no V11 fitted with a 5speed, beginning in 1999.

Welcome, Igor! More likely your foot shift mechanism needs adjusting and may be striking the frame side plate on the downstroke. V11 6 speed: Earlier 5 speed:

Likely just needs cleaned, lubricated. Open the clam-shell case and spray it out with something like CRG Electronics Cleaner® (catching all the overspray and drizzle with a rag. Watch yer eyes!). Then treat the switches to a dose of Caig DeOxit®, working the switches as you go. One of their products contains a lubricant (maybe the "Gold").

I found this excellent post by @p6x on this very subject saying his (later tank) warning light would come on needing 4.3-4.4 US gallons (just over 16 liters) to fill up. Based on the stated volume of the later tank (20.7 liters/ 5.5 US gallons) and some lost volume of trapped fuel, it might be prudent to expect just shy of 3 liters to remain when the light comes on. So "maybe" 45 kilometers of reserve range? "If" you can spot the very first, dim flicker of the warning whisper . . .

I wonder if these V11 replacement universal joints are available still from that same supplier in Montreal. Or if they could be sourced elsewhere? If you change them out, remember to retain the special, angled, reduced size Zerks fitted to your originals.

This is a short tank/ chin pad with external filter and pump or later long tank with internal pump/filter?

Looks to me like there is an extra 1mm to clear a 60mm bolt. The greater issues are down to the "shank" length, the tightening torque, whether to use both a spacer and a washer, and perhaps most of all: what will be the corrosion resistance method? Curtis Harper has those bolts on order ("from North America"). He suggested to me to make up a kit, but I declined. Washers and nuts are easy to come by and most of us should still have our "spacer" (thick washer) to install on the new bolt.

Yes, please clarify, @activpop, V11 or Stelvio?