docc

Are there indications to simply replace with an OEM regulator? Does the 1100 Sport have same vulnerable yellow output wires that are prone to breaking off at her stator?

I suspect your W650 is much like having a Honda GB500. Fun, interesting, reliable and my GB has kept me from buying lots (and lots) of other bikes . . .

+1 . . . Many of you know what a champion I have been on the HIGH Current OMRON (and now the High Current CIT). I am currently on my 7th generation of relays. (Yep, I got to say "Current" and "currently" in the same post. ) Ironically, my only relay failures have been the High Current OMRON G8HE. I traced this to a faulty regulator combined with probable voltage spikes from a failing Yellow Wire connection from the stator.

On 3/5/2023 at 5:51 PM, fastaussie said: no offence to anyone, but these bikes don't pull much. i saw a Tenni take weeks to sell at $4,000 last year. and i've seen Nero Corsa's for sale for a very long time at $6,000, and are still available. i've also seen many non-top tier V11's for sale for $4,000 for many months and counting... (posts split here from members' Classifieds.)

Posts specific to other V11 for sale have been split to the proper thread with respect to the OP . . . https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/30488-v11-for-sale-online-craigslist-and-all-others/?do=findComment&comment=286605

Ah, a "carryover" in earlier 2002 configuration.

The likelihood that the trouble is with the connections, rather than a component like the fuel pump. Definitely clean and Caig DeOxit every connection you can get your hands on.

@Guzzi-in-Vancouver posted this delightful track in another thread, but I thought it deserved a place here. As pretty and talented as the vocalist is, I can't take my eyes off the funky, animated clarinetist!

You know you're on Lago di Como when the dock fenders are old motorcycle tires . . .

Ah, the trappings of selling trinkets to V11ers, always harping, "This is the latest last batch! "

@MartyNZ suggested this link to the nefarious, melting 30 amp charging fuse:

Proper conditioning of the OEM Hawker Odyssey matters: As well as attention to the critical relays "under the seat" . . .

Haha, well, time to give some additional consideration to what is under the seat . . . First, battery: > Notice how the seat has been cutting into the hold down strap. This could also indicate undesirable seat pressure on the battery case. While the seat pan can be relieved with a rotary cutter (Dremel®), consider a "battery basket drop" that places the forward basket mounts beneath the subframe. Drops the battery considerably and no more interference seat <-> battery. > The terminal stacks are prone to loosening and developing corrosion. While a simple loosening and dose of Caig DeOxit® would be well advised, tightening might best be achieved changing those fasteners to hex heads. Consider adding L-brackets. > Check the date code on the Odyssey PC545 and learn to "condition" it, especially if the static voltage has dropped below the 85% (12.65 volt) threshold. > While not actually under the seat, the battery negative cable leaves this are to connect to the back right of the gearbox. This is THE critical main ground. Be absolutely certain it gets cleaned, serviced, and sealed regularly. Next, ECU: > Check that the isolation blocks that fasten the ECU are intact. Very common that they separate and should be re-adhered or replaced. > Make certain the ECU case ground wire connection terminal is clean, treated (DeOxit), and tight. Be careful not to make a connection with your wrench to the nearby Positive Battery Terminal! > Groom the connectors lying on top of the ECU off to the side so the seat is not pressing on the ECU through those connectors. Relays (shown as the topic of discussion, image above, upper left, dismounted and taped): > Learn about "Best Relay" applications and Relay Base Repair. > It is evident when inspecting under the seat when there is seat pan contact with the relays. There are very distinct signs of abrasion and "dusting", dulling, or chafing where there has been contact. Good method to observe the corners and edges of your relays for this and take action to create clearance. Fuse Block and tail connectors: > The connectors that have been dragged into the tool tray can easily be serviced (cleaned, treated, tightened) and tucked back out of the way. > Open the Fuse Block lid and treat (DeOxit) all of the fuse connections. Carefully inspect the green 30 amp Fuse #3 (Charging/Regulator) for signs of excessive heat (melting/deformed case or burnt blades without "blowing the fuse"). Any signs of heat should lead to certainty that the Regulator case has an additonal ground strap directly to the engine timing chest. > By prying the fuse block up out of its isolation blocks you can inspect, tighten, and treat the hidden spade connectors that feed the Fuel/Ignition and ECU relays.

Much to do and easy to get to!

The gauge backlighting and the needle illumination require separately powered LED drivers.

Thanks for the detailed post, @leroysch! stand by for this important post to be split to the "Installing Speedhut" thread . . .

The only people I know more careful than aircraft pilots are Airframe & Powerplant Mechanics . . .

The Bullet Connectors for the Clutch switch are a very common V11 Start Failure, yet . . . It is important to note that when the Bullet Connectors, or the Clutch Safety Switch fails, the bike does not crank, click, or make a peep. Push the starter button and: *nothing*. When this occurs, hold the clutch lever in with thumb firmly depressing the Starter Button and rotate the bars lock to lock. This "Wiggle Tests" the clutch switch connections and may cause the starter to engage: positive test that indicates the Bullet Connectors. If a V11 cranks/clicks/snicks/buzzes/or whirs, but won't start, it is not the Clutch Switch or its connectors.

Here is a source for an alternative fuel pump. Pretty sure it is branded under various names. FWIW, I bought one of these with suspicions that my fuel pump was playing up and, you might have guessed . . . it was relay trouble from a charging system failure. https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=30&products_id=2491

"If i remove the sidestand relay will that indicate its that or not ? ( sidestand switch )" Short test to isolate Sidestand Switch versus Neutral Switch/Neutral Relay : Attempt to start in neutral, sidestand down (observe that the Neutral Light is on, yet this does NOT verify the Neutral Relay is viable). Next, attempt to start in gear, clutch lever in, with the sidestand up (power through the Sidestand Switch only (no relay).

This is a really excellent question since the "Sidestand" Relay (middle relay/#3) is not actuated by the sidestand switch but, rather, by the Neutral Switch on the left side of the gearbox. As it appears you got back running by addressing the Sidestand Switch connectors under the tank, that switch provides power to the Run Switch directly (no relay). I have long preferred to refer to Relay #3 as the "Neutral Relay" as it provides power to the Run Switch when the sidestand is down (and its switch is open). Check to see that your V11 will start/run in both conditions: 1) Sidestand down, powered through the "Neutral Relay," and 2) sidestand up with the bike in gear (clutch lever in) powered through the Sidestand Switch. Stand by for a link to an alternative fuel pump (although your troubles are all more likely connectors and connections).

Split topic:

@Chuck said, "I'm playing with getting my little homebuilt airplane flying right now . . . "

Cool, @Flooky. What relays are you using and which one did you change?

While the shift extender is a @Lucky Phil design, the series of batches (special editions?) have all been produced by @Chuck. Currently uncertain if there are any of the latest last batch still available . . .