docc

Interesting. I was thinking Andreani lists their cartridge for the 43mm Marzocchi for the V11, but not the earlier Sports with the 40mm . . . Plus, don't we have a member here that fitted the Andreani to his later V11? edit: It appears @knumbnutz fitted Andreani to a V11:

Next, sit on the bike and try to start it with the sidestand up. What year is your V11 Sport, @Flooky?

Lift the fuse block from its isolation mounts and be certain the hidden spade connectors under fuses 1 and 2 are tight and functional. (Also, cycle the Run Switch and the Ignition Switch a few times while trying to start.)

I forgot you had changed the early Sport's 4,5" rim to the later 5,5". With my stiffer springs (front and rear), along with higher rear ride height from the Öhlins shock, I found my forks just right at 5mm above the clamp. Yet, all of the variables bear upon one another . . . That looks almost exactly right! The last time I averaged the actual mileages (22 rear and 13 front) the mileage averaged 3538 rear/4951 front. Again, I am hard on tires with my maniacal jackrabbit riding style always rowing the gearbox and ripping around these curvy roads. But, man, is it ever fun! I suppose I've run five or six different Pirelli (Dragon, Diablo, Angel, GT in both corsa and strada variants), several different Dunlop, Michelin, and a couple Bridgestone types. I've learned that if I don't "like" a tire, no problem: it will be gone soon! I switched my RedFrame/ 4.5" rim to a 160 early on. I felt that the 170 was "pinched" to the smaller rim enough to reduce the roundness of the profile affecting both handling and reducing tire life.

@motortouring, you are running a 180 rear on your 2002 LongFrame Sport? What about fitting a 170 next time and see how it feels?

I have recently mounted the 36th rear (26th front) tire to mySport. Other than a couple pure sport tires (including the dubious Pirelli Dragon Corsa that the Sport was delivered with new) tires of whatever brand and whatever version last +/- about 10% of each other for me. I am admittedly hard on tires and also not willing to risk my backside to get the last couple hundred miles (~5%) out of an aging tire. Even paying upwards of $300US for a new tire, mounted, that is trying to squeeze the last $15 out of a replaceable component that I am trusting life and limb to.

I have switched from my long-loved Pirelli to Battlax tires the last few changes and "like" the T32 very much. I say "like" because motorcycle tire preferences are so much like music and ladies. It's a good thing we don't all "like" the same thing!

Makes me think there should be an "Under the Seat Maintenance Checklist " to compliment the other two checklists . . .

Haha, well, time to give some additional consideration to what else is under the seat . . . First, battery: > Notice how the seat has been cutting into the hold down strap. This could also indicate undesirable seat pressure on the battery case. While the seat pan can be relieved with a rotary cutter (Dremel®), consider a "battery basket drop" that places the forward basket mounts beneath the subframe. Drops the battery considerably and no more interference seat <-> battery. > The terminal stacks are prone to loosening and developing corrosion. While a simple loosening and dose of Caig DeOxit® would be well advised, tightening might best be achieved changing those fasteners to hex heads. > Check the date code on the PC545 and learn to "condition" it, especially if the static voltage has dropped below the 85% (12.65 volt) threshold. Next, ECU: > Check that the isolation blocks that fasten the ECU are intact. Very common that they separate and should be re-adhered or replaced. > Make certain the ECU case ground is clean, treated (DeOxit), and tight. Be careful not to make a connection with your wrench to the nearby Positive Battery Terminal! > Groom the connectors lying on top of the ECU off to the side so the seat is not pressing on the ECU through those connectors. Fuse Block and tail connectors: > The connectors that have been dragged into the tool tray can easily be serviced (cleaned, treated, tightened) and tucked back out of the way. > Open the Fuse Block lid and treat (DeOxit) all of the fuse connections. Carefully inspect the green 30 amp Fuse #3 (Charging/Regulator) for signs of excessive heat (melting/deformed case or burnt blades without "blowing the fuse"). Any signs of heat should lead to certainty that the Regulator case has an additonal ground strap directly to the engine timing chest. > By prying the fuse block up out of its isolation blocks you can inspect, tighten, and treat the hidden spade connectors that feed the Fuel/Ignition and ECU relays.

Heh, touché . . . I am reminded of a Rosso Corsa I tried to help someone sort. He said it came "from a Guzzi guy" and had paid a premium for it. I spotted the "Roper Plate" and made the (hasty) conclusion that the fellow must have known what he as doing. Eh, no. There was no oil on the stick, barely any drained out, and it was tar-like. I recall that bike trying to strand us with relay failure, as well. @audiomick makes some good points.

OMRON G8HE! You're golden, man. This also reflects well that the PO had the insight to install those and may indicate further influences on the quality of your V11 . . .

Jus' sayin' . . .

I just re-read the ride through Wonthaggi to Poowong Thanks for taking us along! Seems some more riding should be in order for our Aussie and Kiwi brothers as our seasons change hands . . .

Pre-treat and re-treat with Caig DeOxit®, add Vaseline® petroleum jelly for extra (sealing) measure, if you like. Compared to the 1100Sport, the V11 relays are not terribly susceptible to spray. Unless the fender/hugger systems have been modified/deleted. It is possible the PO of @activpop's V11 thought the shielding would be a weatherproofing. I would be more concerned that would hold moisture. Still looking for what relays @activpop finds under the tape . . . (Once the relay discussion is relatively settled, I have a couple observations/suggestions about what can be seen in the OP's underseat image.)

Having been down this road before, I think it is important to revisit the valuable discoveries and solutions. Without neglecting the silliness . . .

Not to steal MartyNZ's reply, but . . . . What would concern me about the heavy tape, likely added as a vibration damper, is heat retention. The relays get hot, especially #5 (fuel/ignition). Under-rated or under-built relays get really hot. Hot = bad = failure prone. Lot's of discussion in this lengthy, buy informative thread: I would think it telling just what relays you find under the tape, @activpop . . .

There ya go, RM#49 owner #2.

+1 on @Joe's beer run . @audiomick now has a formal invitation to the various South'n SpineRaids. Looking forward to sampling the contents of those gracious panniers . . . B-double-E /double-R-you-in? BeerRun!

All previous owners have been members here. That Rosso Mandello has some respectable provenance. Much of it probably not known to the current seller.

Ah, #49, for sale by the fifth owner. That is a very nice RM in many ways. Some uncertainty whether that is the original oil cooler grill.

Oi, there are logical reasons for a monster rack on a Rosso Mandello . . .

The only year/model I have been able to derive production number is the 2000 V11 Sport, all three colors (no other models were produced in 2000), by using the starting VIN serial number for the year and the actual VINs of in the Gearbox Recall that included V11 into model year 2001. My Sport is #1,531 of 3,529. There has been some conjecture that production numbers increased as Aprilia took over and introduced the LeMans as well as the various other LongFrame models. I have seen no confirmation of that supposition or any references to actual production numbers by year, by model, nor (especially) by color. Nice refresher on model year changes:

Just a clarification on the factory silver oil cooler grill fitted to the 2001 Rosso Mandello: 1999-2001 V11 Sport Cooler grille, black GU 01582630 2001 Rosso Mandello Cooler grille, silver GU01592640