docc

Getting the bike to idle high enough is what the idle stop screw(s) are for. After all of the other steps are completed, simply use the left idle stop and put the idle where you (and the bike) like it.

That is a good question. If my math is correct, that is 0.006" longer than mine. Not sure if that would be harmful to the bearings. I decided to use C3 rated KOYO to get more lateral tolerance.

A series of @FuelCooler's bearing posts have been split to a Bearing Thread hopefully to get some attention on his spacer length question: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/20765-rear-bearings-and-brake/page/6/

Took some serious doses of BillKirchen/HotRodLincoln to pull your Moderator out of the WebFunkBlues . . . Save me, Junior Brown! I'm "white as a ghost !"

Get a good measure on that internal rear wheel spacer! 113 mm ! (Accept no less!)

+1 on the value of a lift. I use mine for the Sport's parking place, so it only takes up "some" extra space. A couple considerations on the right side idle stop. A long shaft "ball end" hex drive could be the ticket. Yet, many of us simply leave it defeated and use the left (easy access) stop and the throttle linkage for idle. This method might put more emphasis on final idle synchronization using the air bypass screws after using the linkage (white knob) to synch at "some rpm."

Ha! Told ya my "sparrow" brain hurt . . . "An African swallow or a European swallow ?"

"Some . . . call me . . . . . . > Tim < . . . . " (Please don't ask about the sparrows, again, this time . . .)

I want to apologize for this in advance. My brain hurts from current events . . . "I don't like SPAM !!! " Spam-Spam-Spam-Spam- Spam-Spam-Spam-Spam- SHUT-UP!-SHUUT-UUUUP!

"If this solves it...let me know where to send a bottle of your choice of fine liquor! "

I found it curious that we, collectively, suspended our usual nut&bolt scrutineering for the listing of the, otherwise, very nice silver Sport whilst directing all interest to the accompanying model. Pretty sure the attention-getting tactic did not play out well for showing the Sport . . .

Let's face it, we are a very tough audience for any V11 offered for sale. The term "scrutineering" comes to mind. Beyond which, our sense of value of our personal V11 treasures can be, er, skewed by potentially clinical overlay . . .

Or just scary . . .

Seems mySport is trying to write an encyclopedia . . .

Now, this potential issue is noted in the Decent Tune-up, IIRC, but make certain the TPS is not fouled (or too close) by the fuel return line/hose and its clamp the regulator. The TPS is engine mounted while the regulator is frame mounted, so a bit a clearance between is desirable . . . I hope this solution still qualifies: "If this solves it...let me know where to send a bottle of your choice of fine liquor! "

The factory witness paint was a great help finding all the places that need to be messed with! Realize that, if you think you backed the idle stop screws, especially the right, out enough to fully close the right throttle plate for the TPS adjustment, and then find the high idle mechanism is fouling the closure: fully releasing the high idle cam could bring the throttle plate back in contact with the right side idle stop screw that had plenty of clearance before . . .

The "High Idle Screw" has to be released so that the throttle plate will fully close. That screw would have, originally, been plastered with yellow anti-tamper "witness" paint.

Bare bones, simplest answer: these steps can't be skipped and have to done in order . . . The throttle "snapping" method always seemed awful to me. I resorted to holding the throttle plate firmly closed to establish the baseline "closed throttle = 157mV TPS." My best result ever. Be mindful of all of the factors that prevent the "fully closed" throttle plate when baselining the TPS. For instance, you didn't mention releasing the high idle cam or attending to how much the TPS reading "walks" as it is tightened. It is a mighty fiddly setting to get "just right" . . . but worth it!

Mounting knobs look intact. Add the cost of a tube of ShinEtsu grease . . .

If yours has not gone missing, but needs "attention", I have had good results restoring mine . . .

Watch eBay. They come up . . . What is up with yours?

Just for reference, here is the layout of rooms at the Lodge at Tellico as they are a bit, er, "non-intuitive" . . . Facing south, from the entrance, the buildings are numbered back-to-front and right-to left. The rooms in each building are numbered counterclockwise from the northeast corner, or right/front as you walk up. (Garage is beneath Building 4) . . .

THAT is the dude that passed me going up the Cherohala! Oh, wait . . . that same dude passes me EVERY year going up the Cherohala . . .

It looks thin, like that, if you pour a little off the top after the bottle has been sitting. If you shake it up well, it will likely look milky like that oil out of guzzi323's gearbox. [Note: I edited my post with the three images to better emphasize those are from three different V11.]

A point of potential confusion, perhaps, is that both of these images are taken looking from "outside" the back of the gearbox with the rearmost cover removed: guzzi323's V11, looking back to front: Bjorn's V11, looking back to front, from above, with the gearbox lying on its front face: But, then, @cash1000's failed bearing seen from inside the gearbox, looking front to back with the gearbox lying on its back cover: Could that back cover be damaged from the bearing failure (like the other two)?