docc

This is a really good question. Short answer is, yes it is the fuel mixture. Yet, really only very significant at idle and near-closed throttle positions. In my experience, this can be enough to help at those sensitive rpm where our V11 is prone to stumble. Combined with the fact that all of the V11 CO Fuel Trim settings I have seen (in The States) have been deep into double digits negative. Bringing this to zero, or even double digits positive, has proven to smooth out the tendency to cough. The true fuel/ ignition parameters are derived by the map. Be certain the throttle plate is ABSOLUTELY closed to baseline the TPS (to the point of holding it closed or zip-tying it) in order that the fuel/ignition curves are fully indexed to the throttle openings. That the factory map has so much ignition advance, at the lowest throttle openings, makes that +/- 2800 rpm range extremely sensitive requiring that all of the other parameters (valve lash, plugs, CO Trim, TPS, throttle body balance, air/fuel filters) are critically seen to. I suspect changing to a freer flowing exhaust simply made all of this more sensitive yet. While we might consider that Throttle Body Balance could be the one main thing that changed with the canisters, to only balance the throttle bodies would be like picking up a 6-string guitar to tune, then only tuning one string . . .

That's it! https://www.lonelec.com/product/guzzidiag-3pin-interface-cable-kit/ Consider, also, the breakout harness to set your TPS. Do you have a way to balance your throttle bodies?

Have you checked where your CO Fuel Trim is set now?

@red lion, did you only change the canisters? Not the collector/crossover as well?

It took my a long time, and insight from The Designer, to appreciate why our tail section is what it is . . .

There are numerous contributors to the cough. Often, performing a "Decent tune-up" addresses it adequately. Simplest solution is not to lug our V11 along sub-4000 rpm. There are other significant reasons not to, as well. It may not actually be "lean" as much as the map at that point has significantly more ignition advance than necessary. @Lucky Phil showed us this clearly.

I'm going on record saying . . .

Those names all seem like such stark, ordinary "English." @guzzler hasn't been putting us on with all Poonyang and Nayook-to-Noojee business ?!?

Okay, so, that is not the period-correct factory accessory Stucchi flyscreen (not sure what that is). Left side levers are also intact along with the sideplate eagle badge. Starter cover and sidestand (wire) "lever" intact along with the sidestand "stop." Aftermarket exhaust crossover (Mistral?). The instrument needles looked completely faded out, as they would if they were original. The footpegs are a modified type with a slight "drop." Forks are raised in the triple trees (maybe ten mm?) which perhaps shows an effort to set the suspension. Eagle badge present on the top clamp (the only other to check for would be on the alternator cover). I cannot make out the shock/ spring, or even see the remote compression adjuster on the left side above the throttle. Still cannot understand the loose wires on the right that look like they have been abrading the gearbox finish. A view under the seat and service history/owner history would be good next steps. Overall, looking like a good Sport with several "changes." Call them "improvements" if they are the things you would do yourself . . .

A few things I can see from the one image: Very clean surface condition, original right side brake levers intact (a good sign it has remained upright on that side, especially since there is an aftermarket headguard which, sometimes, can suggest a tip-over), original turn signals including the front "extensions, a nice custom seat that was built to retain the passenger seat cover, rear "hugger" and swingarm tips intact, tank/chin-pad and side plate eagle all look in good shape. There appears to be a period correct factory accessory Stucchi Luigi-made color-matched front flyscreen and some nice (perhaps Mistral?) exhaust canisters. The rear fender has been cut off below the license plate and the clip-ons converted to handlebars (which causes an odd throttle cable routing). For whatever reason , the clutch and front brake fluid reservoirs look painted fat black (I would prefer to see the level and condition of those fluids). [edit: those look like soft covers over the reservoirs. I am not sure why people do that.] There is some wiring hanging below the right sidecover that I would endeavor to investigate. A left side image, plus an image of the instruments. and a clear image of what is under the seat would be very helpful . . .

Hi, @Robertguske! Welcome to the best place in the world for the care&feeding of your V11 Sport! Let me see if I can get your image to display. If you have any more images, they will help us suggest what questions to ask about the bike. Things like, "Is the VIN in the gearbox recall range?" [I see it is a facebook image, so probably cannot get it to display here ]. . . https://scontent-ord5-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t45.5328-4/273178129_4614528435339984_7365940288931500422_n.jpg?stp=dst-jpg_p720x720&_nc_cat=110&ccb=1-7&_nc_sid=c48759&_nc_ohc=oQRq0mW5noYAX8kHlMI&_nc_ht=scontent-ord5-2.xx&oh=00_AfDsFuixrxiKyGoVkMOktibFDS7qYd7lj0694cE10-XcFg&oe=6448F836

Just for clarification: Not a Moto Guzzi V11?

Which ECU version? (For example, our V11 are 15M or 15RC)

@Guzzimax, This my be the critical question. Have these PC545 been on "trickle chargers" or a "Battery Tender?"

Let's say that image is "for reference only." I would rather (never again) "lead to the creation of a problem on the road ." Waddington has hunted me down before . . .

And, yet, I need new front tire. And "should" bleed the brakes, check/change wheel bearings, maybe change the brake pads, and otherwise have to remove and retorque the axle and caliper mounts. "What could possibly go wrong ?" Waddington might say, "About 400 miles of road time will tell the tale."

Maybe just "fair warning" while I debate mounting a new front tire, or riding out the last of this one . . .

Four weeks out and no one has their V11 apart? Do I have to go out on this limb myself . . .

I had thought the smooth flange is a cast alloy, not stainless steel?

Even though there is already a pressure activated sealant applied on both sides?

"Stock" maybe, just exraterrestrial. I wonder if there is another motorcycle in the world with that Guzzi motor. @Chuck would know . . .

I cannot seem to find the applicable thread referring to my driveshaft fasteners, but here is the image of the "low head" socket head fasteners that came out of my 2000 Sport driveshaft (right) and the replacement Moto Guzzi part (left, from August 2018) with a "normal" socket head height and apparent "blue" thread locking compound (also seen in @audiomick's Stein-Dinse link, above) . . . Considering triple the cost of the Guzzi part, I believe I could apply my own thread locker . . .

Going back through the archives, I see these reliable contributions: @luhbo: "Make sure you use 12.9 bolts and torque them to 40Nm." And this thread, posts by @Kiwi_Roy and @raz:

Because the split yoke spreads when not under load, consider clamping it lightly so that the bolts thread in cleanly without crossthreading. Inspect VERY CAREFULLY the threads in the driveshaft yoke(s), front and rear. I have had to "chase" those threads to clean them up, but CANNOT recommend this as my driveshaft yokes, later, failed. I can look further at my notes later today for alternate sources. Ace probably isn't the place. (More likely McMaster-Carr.) My recollection is to use the standard torque for an M8, but to tighten in steps, going back-and-forth between the two pinch bolts as tightening one will loosen the other.