docc

groan . . . might as well drift this thread three times sideways . . .

Yeah, that's it. I remember now . . .

Reminds me of . . . IDK . . . something . . .

Ok, so maybe I like it because I can't have it . . .

While 1999 V11 Sport are known in Europe, I am not sure we have verified any V11 Sport in the USA until the 2000 year model. Also, I wonder if the V11 only lingered into 2005 in Europe while US V11 ended with 2004. For instance, I don't think we have ever seen a (delicious) 2005 Scura R in The States . . .

"Hey! I resemble that remark!"

I wanted to go back through the captions and count how many times he said, "I can't explain" . . . Of course, we are all nodding in agreement as he says this.

Same here in The States finding 12mm fuel line. I would be nervous running fuel through heater hose. What about 1/2" fuel line. I've used that and it tightens right up. Just taking up slightly over a half millimeter? Be certain to give it some sort of heat shield, as well . . .

Recent events here reveal how critical a forum's stewardship (plus diligence, persistence, expertise, and determination) [are] to preserving a forum. Jaap continues to stand over our flock by the gate. Glad to hear that Pete's persistence has paid off for the Griso community!

"Shifting back into" [neutral] makes the neutral light come on and pulls in the middle/#3 Relay?

"I would say she is capricious."

Down to the wire, then @cash1000! Considering where you have been with this project over the last three months, I would say, "You've got this!" While many of us could swap out that fuel line (and keep it short enough to groom up and away from the cylinder head heat), I realize that later fuel pumps might be mounted above the spine which would require the tank removal. I reckon this is your case?

The CIT are probably just fine, especially for later V11 wiring (2002-2005). The Picker Components relay is particularly interesting for the #1 position in the early (1999-2001) Sport and Rosso Mandello that feeds all of the power through that N.C. contact on to Relay #2 (headlight etc.). This is the only micro relay I have seen with a 25 amp N.C. contact rating. Notably, OMRON were never OEM on the V11. Pretty sure those were Siemens throughout the V11 production. If your OMRON are G8HE, I would leave that 35 amp N.O. contact in Position #5 (fuel/ignition). [For that matter, just leave the G8HE in all the positions and stow the CIT for spares.]

Thanks for posting the link to the clutch bleeder @80CX100. Here's the link to the individual U-joints:

@activpop, Where is the main ground cable that should be attached to the back of the gearbox?

The best explanation I heard for this section in the manual is that it was cut and pasted from the Daytona manual. IIRC, it was because the Daytona shaft had no means for lubrication.

GU02781101 Warning Light Panel 2002 The earlier (1999-2001) "Panel with Lenses" without the jeweling is GU02781100 [The later (2003-2005) panels don not have the battery light and have two turn indicators instead of one]

No way you could JB Weld the damaged part, then drill and tap it? I'll have a look for the jeweled T-panel part number. It's from the 2002 Parts Catalog . . .

@p6x made me look . . . https://www.alange-soehne.com/ww-en/timepieces/1815

I just got this new clock, but having trouble figuring out how to mount it to the Sport . . .

The taller relays have been in mySport many years (twenty?) with no problem. I currently have the Picker in Position #1. Seat pans varied over the model range, so gstallons' clearance check is good method.

Brings me full circle to say that best practice on our V11 is to simply run the same high-current (5-pin) relay in all five positions. As of April 2023, this looks like the best candidate (likely available worldwide): Picker Components PC782-1C-12S-R-X (avaiable from DigiKey) Datasheet And, yes, as @Speedfrog says, "$2.50US, each" . . .

The only relay coil being activated by a solid state circuit is the #5/Fuel-Ignition relay. I have run 1.8 watt and 1.2 watt coils in that position for extended periods of time (years) with no issues. So, it seems the 1.2-1.5-1.8 watt coil range checks out in that regard. With regard to vibration and "bounce", it makes sense to choose a higher coil wattage for the N.O. contact. The only place I have had intermittent contact ("bounce") is the N.C. (weaker, spring dependent) contact on Relay#1 (SPDT/5-pin) from a damaged relay. I like the 25 amp N.C. Picker Components option for this position on the early 1999-2001 Sports/Rosso Mandello that send all of the power to the N.O. contacts of the "Headlight etc." Relay/ #2. Later N.C. relay #1 only pull in the #2 coil, but I still wouldn't want it to "bounce."

I see a "Banter thread" coming out of this. "Watch" for the posts to split . . .

In US "sport-touring", 200 miles has often been considered a desirable fuel range goal. The way I ride mySport, fueling at 150-160 is comfortable. Sure I've made it to 175, but also had to tip-slosh at 165. I have also ridden sport-tours with a "short stick" in the group that required fuel closer to the 100 mile mark. Not the right tool for the job, IMO . . .