docc

All of the wiring is accessible at the front without removing the tank if you are using a GPS antenna. If you are using a reed switch at the gearbox, that wire will need to be routed along the frame. I was able to fish out my unused speedometer cable without removing the tank, but your cable may need a tank-off for removal.

Somedays, this place reminds me of an old oyster bar my buddy and I used to hit up after closing down the restaurant/bar we worked at on The Gulf Coast. Somehow, the old guard just let us sit at the bar and sing along to David Allan Coe, "Pissed me off " . . . It was our theme song in those struggly days . . .

That front yoke is not easy to see/assess within the front guard and ahead of the swingarm, but a bright light a close look should reveal if the yoke or uni-joint have gone awry. With the left side shift plate off, any fractured sliding dogs/"hoses" should be detectable peering in with a bright light whilst rocking the gearbox back and forth with the rear wheel. A flywheel failure, or clutch plate failure, would only be visible with the clutch removed from the flywheel "basket." Then, there is the matter of finding the New Zealander with the proper "special tools" . . .

That is encouraging, actually. The "Decent Tune-up " is not something I made up or take credit for. Instead, it is an attempt to archive, link, and reference a concise tune-up procedure approachable by the majority of owners with a predictably good outcome. The procedure is a compendium, if you will, much like the "Maintenance Checklists" that link and reference significant contributions and discoveries in a relatively concise location:

I'm still keen to hear that a faulty wire in the 5amp Fuse 7 Turn Signal circuit would have blown the 10amp Fuse 4 for the Ignition Switch without there being other subterfuge afoot . . .

@cash1000, visual inspection of the front driveshaft yoke shows it, and its fasteners, to be intact and unaffected? I ask because mine changed abruptly one day (and finding the fault here would preclude removing the gearbox) . . .

The nefarious fractured sliding dog ("hose")? Is your Rosso Mandello in that recall range, @cash1000?

Could an aluminum flywheel fracture act like this?

Glad you got a ride in! Must have made her jealous . . . Worth servicing: Maybe Santa will bring you some Caig DeOxit and you can service the Run Switch while you're at it . . .

I've seen the gorgeous Stucchi fairing in red. The whole package in that blue is just magnificent! Welkom, MojoFuzzi/ "E" ! Consider creating an album to post your wonderful images from the forum Gallery without downsizing:

Be certain your adjustment did not defeat the clutch switch activation. You should be able to put your ear to the switch at the lever pivot and hear a tiny click-click as the lever is barely pulled and released. Poor connection inside the Run Switch could be problematic. In that case, cycle the Run Switch sharply several times during start attempts. If she starts, then open the Run Switch and clean/treat the contacts with something magical like Caig DeOxit Gold®. Magical. The chance this is a component failure, or anything more than a connection issue, is rather low.

Have you performed the method I posted rotating the bars while holding the start button down? This is a variant of the "Wiggle Test " where wiring is jostled, or "wiggled" while testing for an electrical fault. It is a common way of discovering faulty connectors or a broken wire.

It seems to me that while Relay 5, and Fuse 2 (or those vulnerable hidden spade connectors under the fuse block), would prevent the fuel pump from spinning, the bike would still crank but not start. No pump/ no crank? Sure points to the Clutch Safety Switch. I do recall a member who owned other bikes and simply forgot the V11 must have the clutch lever pulled in to start, even if in neutral . . .

That triple (common to the earlier SPOrT 1100 and 1100 Sport-i) was fitted to some early V11 Sport, as well. The different offset is very likely one (major) source of criticism of the handling of the very earliest V11 Sports . . .

Worth checking the Clutch Switch "bullet connectors." (Could be the clutch microswitch, itself.) Make sure the bike is in neutral with the Neutral Light lit, Ignition Switch and Run Switch on, pull the clutch lever in and hold the Starter Button while rotating the bars slowly back and forth, lock-to-lock. If the starter suddenly activates, the Bullet Connectors are suspect (common).

@Speedfrog just posted this image of a 2003 Sport in later configuration! They do exist! (Unconfirmed VIN 10th character.) For sale in Atlanta, Georgia, USA, on WildGuzzi: https://www.mgnoc.com/classifieds.html

Wow! The unicorn 2003 Sport that is NOT a "carryover!" So, they do exist! (Note the long tank with no chin pad and what appear to be black face instruments.)

Akrapovic!

MIVV . . . edgy!

Wouldn't that be some find . . . FWIW, it is probably the odometer/trip odometer most critical for our application owing to unforgiving fuel range . . .

Sorry about all the noise I made @red lion . . . Short answer: