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I seem to recall expert advice that the fully engaged lever position opens the valve in the master cylinder and allows the air to escape overnight. I have actually seen this (surprisingly) work on my buddy's 1200Sport. Otherwise, I'm out of my paygrade here

Wow, man, I am so not the guy to make suggestions on these CARC bikes, but . . . How about wrapping the threads of the new bleeder with some (plumbing) Teflon tape/ thread sealer and hanging a weight on the foot lever overnight?

Both using the same added relay?

Let's move this to the right subforum and give it its own topic title . . .

Later V11 motors were produced with slightly higher compression and a modified connecting rod that directs an oil spray to cool the underside of the piston, IIRC. When this was introduced and whether the KS designation represents this change is yet to be clarified.

I've never seen a "torque value" for this fine threaded "man hole" filter access cover. Yet, with the O-rig lubricated, it is best to tighten it firmly with a proper tool. I prefer a 10" breaker bar in 3/8" drive through the correct 27mm hex drive. This is an important distinction that should be thoroughly understood regarding the V11's oil filter contained within the sump, out of sight. Somewhere in the lore of installing external canister oil filters, the method was to lubricate the filter's gasket with motor oil and install "hand tight" or "finger tight." This is a DISASTEROUSLY BAD IDEA for the V11 ! V11 have been known to let their oil filter come loose. There have been theories, and contributors, to this potentially catastrophic failure: 1) Early, or a batch of, factory UFI filter gaskets were faulty or inadequate. 2) The "Hand Tight" method is not for this application. Based upon a respectable evaluation by V11LM member Ryland3210, I adopted the "one and one eighth (1 1/8) turns past first gasket contact" to good effect. (I have only had one filter stuck to the point of removing the sump and destroying the filter to remove it. ) Others have resorted to installing a hose clamp on the filter as a stop to prevent the filter from backing off. Beware a V11 unfamiliar to you that may have this modification. The oil filter cannot be removed through the access cover, but only with the sump removed.

Nice sound! Took me a minute to realize it is set to one man's truck . . .

Yes, the connector pipe for the vent tube has a gasket and can leak, but usually down through the clutch housing and out the lower weep hole behind the engine. There are other leak sources up top including the oil feed lines to the heads and the O-ring/ sealing surface of the distributor blanking plate. Oil leaking and blowing back from a failed steering damper seal will wet this area, as well.

I swear the last time I tried to take "the short-cut thru Nayook to Noojee " I got slapped, she told her dad, and I had to leave town . . .

Not sure about their promotions, but their little town has a nice, friendly BBQ spot . . .

Haha, well our US State Governments will never be the most reliable source of critical information of some 20+ year old Italian motorcycle. As long as you know what to order parts for, the "2004" thing is just something to disclose if you ever sell her on. Seems you are making some excellent progress on your V11 journey!

Once clean and dry, you can spray the areas of concern with foot powder and take a short, slow speed ride. The powder will discolor at the source.

Front of the left cylinder? More likely the #112 Viton O-ring for the phase/timing/cam sensor.

Lots of us with the earlier Sport's 4.5" rim have been running 160/60-17. Currently, I have a Bridgestone T32.

Or is the "KS" V11 the change to the later motor with higher compression and the special connecting rods that spray oil up under the pistons?

Haha, well, I am the V11 Poster Child for factory map, original injectors, timing chain/tensioner, original valves, valve guides, valve cover gaskets (pretty sure I should change those pretty soon . . . ).

The ECU is a 15M or 15RC, @VeeEleven?

[ Haha, well: successful "strike my last sentence" edit! I'm giving myself a raise! ]

Yeah, I found that "3" easy to read as a "9."

They are viewable by opening the link, but to get the image to display in your post takes a "Copy&Paste" of some sort. When the image opens on another site (like Google Photos), clicking "Copy" will paste the image into your post, but add it to your (limited allowable amount of "Attachments"). To see what you have already added to your attachments, click on your username and select "Attachments." If you click on the image in Google Photos, it reopens in a new widow. "Right click" that image to drop down a new menu and select "Copy Image Link" (not just "Copy Link"). Pasting Copy Image Link "hot links" the display to the host site. Some sites block this and only a link (no image) will display. This is what @Tom in Virginia's image displays using Copy Image Link:

Tenth digit in the VIN: Y= 2000; 1 = 2001 Identical parts/ wiring/ etc 1999 - 2001.

"Expand Photo" looks pretty strange on my mobile device. Remember, if you "Copy Image" the image is added to your Attachments. "Copy Image Link" hosts the image at the linked site. Not all sites allow this.

On my Mac I can display those images using "Copy Image Link", but can't seem to figure that out with this iPhone . . .