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Of course, @Guzzi2Go and @luhbo were entirely correct that in spite of all the little things I tried, the battery light flicker at idle after riding remained. Until I finally changed the regulator.
Although the charging remained 14.2V or above, it appears the old regulator had "failed in a special way" and was "on its way out" with continuity developing between the red charging wire and the case. I never thought of monitoring for continuity there, but it makes sense.
New regulator: no more flicker.

I have heard Gianelli on a V11. They are delicious!
 
I am not sure they should be allowed to call them "Silencers"  . . .

Check out pages 4 and 5 in this thread showing how I installed this style of circuit breaker:

Good find!
 
I added this link with an emphasis to the Wheels Off Maintenance Checklist.
 
Thanks, again, BobH-man, for posting the outcome!

Have a go at Relay #2 (counting from the front). Because your (delicious ) Rosso Mandello is an early V11, that current also passes through Relay #1 (front).
 
Be certain you are running  High Current OMRON relays and just treat your little lady to a full set! It is Christmas after all!
 
http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19755&p=216605

Apparently this "retention washer" for the input hub was never adequately engaged into the nut notch to effect adequate retention. The manual does not mention folding a tab in, but evidently this is how the keyed retention washer is to be used.

I found the problem. It was not the PC545 or anything I did. Broken wire at the connector for the charger.
 
 

*Best* relay for the V11 has been the High-Current OMRON G8HE-1C7T-R-DC12 , but out of production and hard to source. [rated 20a N.C./ 35a N.O.]
>EDIT/ July 2021: Members have reported success sourcing the OMRON from various ebay sellers (see page 12 of this thread).
> EDIT/ October 2021: a promising alternative has been discovered by @p6x:                                      CIT A11CSQ12VDC1.5R        Data sheet     [rated 20 / 30 ]
> EDIT/ March 2023: another High Current contender from @Speedfrog:
          Picker Components PC782-1C-12S-R-X      Data Sheet   [rated 25 / 30 ]
 
[ Form A (4-pin) relays can be used in positions #2-#5.
                    Only position #1, front/ Start Relay, requires the Form C (5-pin). ]
 
The prevailing wisdom says: use The Very Best 5-Pin relays in all five positions,
.  .  .  carry extras for your riding buddies that didn't get the memo .  .  . 
 
 
 

Having not gotten to ride much the last few months, the Sport surprised me the other day on a little spirited jaunt through the hills (I was thinking of the SoCal guys and their amazing climbs just off the coast . . . )
 
I had, frankly, forgotten about the airbox bellmouth modification, but the lovely tone and acoustic sonority immediately reminded me!
 
It occurred to me that this primary *glass mandrel* provided the elusive answer to the desire to change the stock airbox . . .
 
The stock airbox is obviously just too yang and needs a good dose of yin for proper balance in the universe. And I thought it was all about science and Bernouli and such . . . 
 

 
That it comes form "Evil Twin" makes it ever-so-much-more right!

As mentioned in another thread ('03 V11 runs like crap), a weak battery on a V11 can be a source of frustration. This is a recurring theme and can lead to a literal "wild goose chase" of various other issues when, really, the battery needs proper conditioning.
 
So, three things:
1) Don't let your AGM fall below 12.65 volts before "conditioning" it. (First, discharge with the lights on for a few minutes, then charge as in Step 3.)
 
2) Don't expect your V11's electrical system to take care of this for you. It may not run well and the charging system will get pissed off.
 
3) Be certain your charge and float voltages are correct for the AGM requirement: 14.2-14.7v  to charge (not to exceed 15v) with a minimum of 6 amps, and 13.5-13.8v to "float"/ "trickle"
>  LESS voltage on trickle/float is NOT okay. Odyssey states that floating under 13.2 damages the battery:
"Note, however, that the charge voltage should not be dropped below 13.2V as that will cause the battery grids to corrode faster, thereby shortening the battery life."
 
 

Certainly one the finest looking V11 in the world!
 
Recent discussion and more details here:
 
http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18911&p=206467

Oh, that's shocking. We're all really shocked. Darkly so . . . .

+ 5 hours from shutdown, engine temp 27˚C/ air temp 25˚C; valves have stayed 0.006/0.008.
 
Other than the hot (90˚C) valves being unexpectedly looser, and the intake looser than the exhaust, there are a couple other observations:
 
1) With the fans on the motor, it cooled almost 90% in 40 minutes and the valves returned to their "stone cold" setting. So, I would conclude that the motor simply needs to "cool down" for valve adjustment, but doesn't need to be "stone cold" or sit overnight; not even for hours. Notably, the valve cover was removed during the cool-down.
 
2) It's OK to remove the spark plugs from a hot engine. But best to replace them when cold.
 
3) guzzidiag is a wonderful tool for monitoring actual engine temperature/ air temperature.

Look on the swing arm - there are several labels added there that are not on the European vehicles. I cannot remember if you have to remove the "hugger" inner fender to view them.

Thanks, Hubert! Indeed, the pistons were being pushed back into the calipers by wiggling at the wheel.
 
Here's why:
 

Hey, man, your thread is only on Page 5! You can't rest now!

It is the Heim Joint: 8mm, right hand thread, male
 
 
Measurements: 55mm overall length, 8mm opening, with 25mm length of threaded  8mm x 1.25 shaft
 
 Amazon - 4 for $25
 
Ebay LH/RH set $14.99
 
When I took delivery of my replacement Shindy, it came with a new Heim joints. So, if your Bitubo is "crunchy" your replacement will likely have new joints.

As I recall, 0.006" intake/ 0.008" exhaust.
 
YRMV (Your Recollection Might Vary)