jtucker

Nylon is to plastic what apple is to fruit. So, yeah... it is specific type of plastic. __Jason

__Jason

Yeah, looks like mine is April 2000. Again... curious that mine has the bracket. __Jason

I have no idea what month mine was built in, but it's a 2000 and has the bracket. I'm assuming it came that way, or else my dealer added one without mentioning it to me. ZGUKRAKR2YM112722 __Jason

Was there an actual recall on that? This bracket sort of baffles me... some bikes had it, some don't... wasn't clear to me if the problem with that was real or perceived. Its all academic for me, though... because mine came with it 😂 __Jason

This would potentially solve one of those issues: https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=281&products_id=1937 No first-hand experience with it... although I have considered it. __Jason

The other zero-effort thing I did today: new K&N pods. The old ones were getting sort of ratty - particularly the left side, which got a bit crushed somewhere along the lines. Last time I cleaned and oiled them, I decided it would be the last time, and it was time to get some freshies. __Jason

Fun with magnets! My sump doesn't have a drain plug, per se (due to it being commandeered by the breather return), so no ability to use a magnetic drain plug. I have a handful of rare earth magnets, so decided to play around with putting them on the oil filter. Seems simple enough, but I'm curious if they will stay put on their own, or if they will work their way off - they do slide around the filter fairly easily, so I might have to resort to using something to hold them in place. We'll see. __Jason

IIRC, no red-frames came from the factory with black valve covers, so these were probably replaced or refinished by a previous owner. __Jason

Like a BMW? That doesn't seem right at all! 😂 __Jason

I do believe that in this scenario, the clutch switch is necessary - so do try that. If it still doesn't work, then I'm with docc in suspecting either the ignition (key) switch, or the wiring in between that and the pin 30 on the starter relay. Someone correct me if I'm wrong (my earlier bike is different) but I think there may be a splice somewhere off the ignition "on" circuit and the starter relay, as that circuit does more than simply power the starter relay. If so, that splice point could be faulty as well. There may even be more than one splice point... that path seems to take a meandering route. __Jason

Personally, I don't know if I can trust myself not to cause galling. Which is one of the reasons I'm also wary of stainless. __Jason

Isn't Ti on a Guzzi a bit like lipstick on a pig? 😂 Currently, I'm trying to source some M10 button heads to replace the rusting ones that hold the side plates to the frame. Thought about going fancy, but in the end I'll probably end up with some zinc-plated 10.9 steel. If I'm not mistaken, the originals were simply black oxide? So if I get something that looks just a little better than that, I'll be thrilled. __Jason

There is some SS stuff here: https://www.ebay.com/str/stainlesscycle/MOTO-GUZZI/_i.html?_storecat=29353045018 __Jason

They are out-of-production currently, but are in-stock here: https://www.onlinecomponents.com/omron-electronics/g8he1c7trdc12-42670683.html (I just had a batch of them delivered to me yesterday) __Jason

The (updated) manual page that was posted seems to say that there is no compression damping adjustment - only rebound damping and spring preload. If that's the case, then it seems changing oil viscosity is about the only way to adjust compression damping (which would, in turn, also affect rebound damping). I hate to say it, but if you want to really be able to fine-tune, you might want to consider an improved cartridge, such as: https://www.omniaracing.net/en/andreani-misano-evo-adjustable-hydraulic-cartridge-for-moto-guzzi-v11-mans-20012006-p-43777.html __Jason

Interestingly, this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1999-2004-Moto-Guzzi-V11-Ballabio-Complete-Front-Fork-GU01490280/362402336724?epid=13021999341&hash=item5460dccfd4:g:M5QAAOSwyglbYOlK Shows the same... both forks are marked "R" only: Not sure that really solves anything, but... 🤷‍♂️ __Jason

Finally drank the relay Kool-Aid. I've decided to hold onto all 10, though, as I like the idea of having spares on-hand, and eventually doing pre-emptive replacements at some point down the road. __Jason

Strange. On my 2000 V11S, it has "C" and "R" as I would expect. Not sure about the preload question, offhand. __Jason

http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=2995 or https://www.stein-dinse.biz/product_info.php?products_id=132 __Jason

I don't have an SS, but I have a M900 which... is sort of like an SS with no bodywork... if you close one eye and squint 😂 The Ducati is significantly lighter. The Guzzi is significantly easier to do a valve adjustment on. 😂 I like 'em both. Someday, I hope to get my Ducati back on the road (its been sitting too long for various reasons non-bike-related, and now needs some good TLC to get back into proper order). The V11S is the bike I would never sell, though. __Jason

Different stands for different purposes. I have a lift similar to that on order, but I wouldn't consider it a 1-for-1 replacement for the front wheel chock. For example, the Baxley chock (and similar) are incredibly useful for things like trailering and setting suspension sag. The center lift... not so much. On the other hand, the center lift is fantastic for getting the wheel off the ground with an unloaded suspension. I currently have a Pit Boss front stand to lift the front of my bike(s). I have one swingarm lift that fits my Ducati, and a second (Pit Boss) swingarm lift that fits the Guzzi. Also, a Baxley front wheel chock. And I have a V11 center lift currently on order. I have more lifts/stands than I do bikes, but I have particular uses for all of them! 😂 __Jason

It was only recently that it occurred to me that my V11S doesn't even have a starter cover. And to be honest, I don't know if it ever had one, or if I removed it way-back-when along with the airbox and side covers, or if it simply got lost somewhere along the way and I never noticed. At any rate, I guess I don't need it 😂 __Jason

+1 These bikes don't put out nearly enough power to warrant fat rear wheels/tires. If you do decide to "upgrade", just keep in mind that any improvement will mainly be cosmetic, and it will probably decrease handling performance. For reference, I run a 160 width tire on a 4.5" wheel, and my modified V11 is likely more powerful than most. The "narrow" tire is just peachy on it, and I have no interest in anything wider. But, with that said... to each, their own... so if you want to make it happen anyway, more power to ya. I believe people have made the "upgrade", so there is probably some info to be found by searching the forum. __Jason

Those Baxley sport chocks are nice. I have one, but wouldn't mind having 1 (or 2) more. It was super-handy back when I used to do track days, both for loading the bike on the (rental) trailer, and for use in the paddock (because my sidestand would be removed due to dragging on the track). And if you use them to keep the bike upright, you may find you have more room in the garage than you used to __Jason