guzzi323

My recollection is Guzzi announced there would be 600 but they ended up making some 'extras'.

That is exactly how mine failed. It was a broken gear within the mechanism. There are many posts here about installing a Speedhut speedo. Your problem may be different but that's my guess. johnk

If you're taking names down, I'd take one too if they become available again.

If you are talking about where the driveshaft fits onto the transmission output shaft, it should fit over both splines. The gap in the splines is there to allow the pinch bolts to function properly. The pinch bolts must be removed to get the driveshaft into place. I hope this makes sense...

I've done this with success on wheels for a few bikes and used a gap filling locktite on it.

Be gentle when 'fiddling' with it. My taillight completely failed one night when driving home. When I went to replace the bulb I found the bulb holding base that's part of the plastic casting had broken into a few pieces and the bulb was just sitting in a hole at the back of the reflector. Luckily the part isn't too expensive.

Done. Thanks for going through this process to get a proper spring.

Though I doubt I could make it for the 'spring party' I'd like a spring to install next time I've got the time to install. I had a warranty spring repair a very long time ago and feel I've probably been pushing my luck. Thanks.

Oh, I like this one. I've never heard of that trick before. Thanks!

I'd think if it was a 'pressure relief' it would be not right near the nipple. I can't imagine much grease gets down the length of the shaft splines before the grease comes out the end. No matter for me. I'll just manually grease the shaft splines whenever I change the tire.

I was lubing the driveshaft (off the bike) during a tire change and I noticed a pinhole at the back of the mid-shaft which allowed grease to come squirting out as I pumped it in. It's inside the yoke where it connects to the shaft. I thought it might have come from when I was greasing the rear fitting but I cleaned it off and re-greased the center section. I could hear it oozing out the pinhole. I think it's not a big issue as I can manually smear grease on the splines of the half shafts but it's one more thing to keep an eye on.

I just did this about a week ago when I replaced my tubes (80k miles wore through the titanium nitriding). If you've ever replace fork bushings before, it's pretty much the same thing. The issue is you need something long enough. I turned a piece on my lathe and screwed it onto a piece of 3/4" black pipe. Whatever you use can't have too rounded an edge or it'll have difficulty getting purchase on the thin bushing.

I put one of these after numerous problems with the stock Valeo. It's been trouble free for years.

I believe that's a supercharger nestled in the 'V'.

Have you check your driveshaft yoke alignment yet? Mine was off and I had to have one yoke rewelded on at a shop so they would align properly.

Very interesting read johnk. how about an update? what is your conclusion after a few years? I will have a very close look at my shafts after reading that. Everything seems fine now but I've been riding a lot less the past four years I think I've only put another 15K on it since then.

This sounds quite similar to my transmission failure from a few years back. I hope yours is a less troublesome repair. johnk

II agree it looks like one of the ignition switch screws. I'd recommend taking a look at the underside of the switch as on my bike both bolts fell out (not at the same time). Tthen the switch slid down and got jammed between the headstock and the forks, severly limiting turning to one side. For me, it slid down while I was parking so it wasn't so bad. If it happened on the road, I don't think I could have avoided a crash. johnk

That was my problem. I like to place my brake pedal so they are right under my boot in normal riding and it was easy to be unaware that I was slightly pressing it. With this spring (I think it's an old cluch spring from my DR 350) it takes noticeable pressure to move the pedal.

Where, exactly, did you put the spring? (a picture would be nice if it's convenient for you) This is nothing at all fancy. I just cobbled it together with what I had on hand. Google's new, annoying system make it hard to embed images but a pic of it is here.. This solved my brake heating problems. I hope it helps. johnk

I think it might be the non-exisitant lever return spring on the brake pedal. I put a spring on it and my brake dragging problems went away. I also like having a more solid feel to the pedal so I know I'm not accidenally slightly pressing it with my large, heavy boots. I use the rear brake very little yet before putting the spring on I was wearing through them faster than the fronts.

Some Speedhut speedos work off of a GPS receiver. You just have to find a place for the small'ish antenna to mount. It works much better than I would have expected except there will be times when you loose your GPS due to dense tree cover or tall buildings. The folks at Speedhut are very pleasant and helpful if you have any questions. johnk

I'm glad to hear you got these. They are my current first choice for when I replace my rotors but I've never known of anybody who's used them. I like cast iron rotors and I like Brake Tech's design. Please keep us (or at least me) posted on how you like them. johnk

What's the red thing just below your oil cooler ... upgraded horn, deer scarer ..? Upgraded horns (there's another one on the other side). They're Hella and they used to be my favorite horn but now I like this compact Stebel horn. It can be a challenge to find a place to mount them, however. johnk