dlaing

Never mind, just read the price on the first page...

Wow! I visit for the first time in forever and the first topic I read has my name in it. Anyway, I am still dreaming of the pistons, too. Any idea what the price is with rings, pin, etc.?

if wheel bearings are getting notchy, most likely caused by too short of bearing spacer. result is that when axle is tightened, bearing is under pressure that it is not designed to withstand. search forum for proper measurement info. please take this issue seriously. failing to remedy could result in bearing seizure and wheel lockup. this should have been a safety recall. IMHO

OK one hour of searching later, here is Greg's post, indicating half a degree of rake difference. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15075&st=135&p=163761entry163761

Greg Field posted something about angle being offset in the triple clamps on the black frames. but I can't find the post.

The ride height will be higher than stock, but it can of course be lowered by decreasing preload to increase sag. It is all a balancing act of factors: Correct ride height, Correct laden sag, Correct unladen sag, Correct spring rate, AND it all should balance with the front, but keep in mind the front is much more progressive, so perfection is always a compromise. Chances are they gave you a much firmer spring than OEM, so you should be able to increase unladen sag greater than the OEM shock. But you may like the higher rear height as it does make the bike more nimble. My Penske manual recommended 7/8" - 1-1/16" laden sag. I set it to 5.5mm unladen and 31.3mm laden which is a little more than they recommend, and I do get some occasional bottoming out. I have 550# spring and I weigh 225-240 lbs with gear. I'd ideally like to switch to a 600# spring or a HyperPro rising rate spring...I think...but I am not sure, so I'll save my money for gas. In any case you should find it is so much better than the OEM Sachs was, especially if you are heavy rider.

Carl Allison's schematics have corrections and color that the owner and workshop manuals do not have. Carl went through several revisions based on discovered errors in the OEM manual's schematics.

From my website: front bearings as accurately as we have discerned, the combination of a 6304 and 6205 appears on bikes with a solid axle. Bikes with a hollow axle have a pair of 6205 bearings. 6304 is 20 x 52 x 15 mm 92 20 52 27 which may cross ref 92 20 14 20 from older Guzzi. 6205 is 25 x 52 x 15 mm 92 20 18 21 http://webspace.webring.com/people/ur/rcdlaing/

obviously you didn't argue hard enough or maybe you need to better relate dude lol Just kidding for pete's sake! more than what you need to know is in this thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1097&hl= short answer 12mm

The Penske reservoir does not use the stock holder. It comes with rubber blocks to mount it to the starter. Orienting the hose is a little tricky but doable. They cut it to the perfect length without me specifying. I did have trouble getting the right size bushing spacers from them, but they were great at FedExing the correct ones, but mine was custom ordered to be as close to Ohlins dimensions as possible, so they used different parts which may have triggered the wrong size bushings getting delivered. There support is excellent, so if there is a problem with the length or anything, they will be there for you. I felt treated like a pro racer in race season!!!

I put my wide band O2 sensor where Paul put his. With the wide band sensors it is important to get it in the right area. I'd avoid putting it in the crossover. Are the widebands more accurate for closed loop on the my15?

legally a promise by word is still a contract. Credibility of the accusation of course won't carry as much weight, but then they would have to lie under oath. So, not only did they bill for $70 per hour, they charged 1000/25= 40 hours labor to do that little work?!? Or was it 1000/70=14 hours sounds more like it. Did they estimate time? I am slow as molasses, and I could do all but the paint stripping in about 6 hours Stripping the paint might take a couple days of soaking, but labor should only be a couple hours, I'd guess, but maybe the paint on our wheels is extra tough????? Powdercoating wheels should be less than $200 for the pair, but I am assuming that was an additional cost billed by another company. Good grief! take them to court! Oooops, I just read your edited post, where you changed the price difference from 1000 to 800, so that would be 32 hours iabor!!!!!!! Is an oil change there 5 hours labor????

Once the 150mV baseline is correct, its just a case of balancing AND getting idle speed correct AND TPS reading correct AND CO reading correct. Correct TPS reading, and Veglia idle speed vary by bike. According to documentation at http://www.mphcycles.com/Technical/tpsexcel3.htm the ECU recognizes anything below 575mV to be at idle, as seen by flag on diagnostic program. The ECU never sees the 150mV during normal operation. The 150 mV is measured when throttle linkage is disconnected. When throttle linkage is connected the TPS will be about 500mV (give or take about 75mV) and should be what the ECU sees at idle. Theoretically if you disconnect the linkage and set screws and move the right TB valve from fully closed to fully open the voltage should go from 150mV when fully closed to just under 5V at WOT (wide open throttle) (4.85V might be a typical reading, but it should probably be between 4.75 and 4.95V) A few on the forum could not get the engine to run right when using the 150mV setting. Instead they used a recommended mV at idle and got good results. Either way should work if done correctly. Also, I find that at 1300 RPM the transmission clunks when shifting from neutral to first. If yours shifts smoothly than you are probably fine at that RPM reading. In any case you want to keep idle RPMs well above the stalling point, but below the transmission clunking point and below 575mV (4 degrees as read by diagnostic software) The speedometers on our bikes are not all calibrated the same. Being off by 200 rpms or more seems to be common.

The simple solution is to turn both idle set screws out the same exact number of turns. Whatever you do, count the precise number of turns so you can undo what you did. You probably only need to go about a quarter turn out. But I recommend you should check the balance and check the TPS reading. Buying something to measure balance is not that expensive and once you have it, it is very quick and easy to check the balance....but setting it can take more effort. I also recommend splicing in connectors to read the TPS (but this could invalidate your warranty)

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I check throttle body balance more frequently, like every 1000 - 2000 miles, or whenever I think it is off. Mine has needed valves adjusted more frequently, like every 2000 - 3000 miles, but mine may have other issues causing that, yep there I go speculating again, forgive me. After adjusting valves I always balance the Throttle Bodies and check the TPS setting at idle just to make sure it is not out of range. I spliced inline connectors on to the appropriate wires to make TPS readings easy. If Throttle Position Sensor reading is out of range, then I'll go through the full TPS setting procedure, but not the CO% reading, as I don't have the tool.

http://www.sbs.com.au/news/article/1006526/Melbourne's-record-breaking-heatwave "Melbourne has broken another weather record today as temperatures reach 43 degrees, with firefighters on high alert as the mercury soars. If the weather predictions are correct, it will be the first time since records began in 1855 that the city has had three consecutive days of temperatures above 43C." Obviously one city's weather has caused Moto Guzzi's plastic tanks to expand almost as fast rubber breaks down in lawn mowers. Oh the logic is astounding.

You didn't call them pussies to there face on that forum.

Ratchet, have you been doing your neighbors dog lately? Yes, there are a lot of maybes etc. The truth is I don't know for sure whether this problem is caused by heat, but I am not pulling crap out of my ass and declaring it as fact when there is no substantial evidence for it being one specific thing over all others. Why do you have to be so arrogant and uncivil? Just because I push your buttons with my logic and counter your pseudo-science and right wing BULL? Maybe, probably, could be, NO! presumably!!! Presumably you have issues with me because I constantly counter your propaganda. You just hate that I am LIKELY absolutely right about ETHANOL not being the primary culprit. Visions of blow torch blowing up gas tanks! Great counter argument there, Darwin ol' buddy LOL! Come down from your purple planet and grasp reality, and don't do your bloody neighbor's dog!!!!

Maybe temperature is not the culprit, either. The worst elongation that I experienced was after taking a nearly full tank off the bike, letting it sit a week and then trying to get it back on. Garage temperature probably never got over 90F. I have probably had tank off more than ten times and it has always had clearance issues, and trouble realigning, but the last time was the worst, presumably because of tank sitting off the bike, and years of stretching limited by being bolted in position, but it seems to be degrading, which does smack more of chemical damage than heat damage. If it is heat damage, the plastic does not seem to be getting more brittle or baked, but it seems to be stretching because it is too soft. Are there any experts out there in plastic tempering? Could it be that Guzzi's tank source never tempered the plastic, or the tempering got ruined by the heat?????? Could the plastic be re-tempered? Obviously if people are getting visible warping damage, that is not really reversible, but if we could heat the tank, reshape it by vacuum or compression, and then quick cool it, and then put heavier insulation under it, maybe it is a reversible and curable problem for some of us?

That is a great argument for Ethanol not being the culprit, but why do think the cause is a fuel additive and not heat?

Ferguzzi is a union pilot. They are tired and hung over. Fly Helicopter Jim Airlines instead. Jim shares his booze with you and is wide awake from smokin' crack.

Just a bloke on the innerneck? Dude, you are Pete Roper! and you just pointed out how close the oil runs to the exhaust valve. I'll take it you won't run Yak Fat in those engines? There is no way I would run that engine with anything that was not designed to handle that heat. Note that Full Synthetic is not necessarily a full ester synthetic. The difference between a 10W-50 and a 10W-60 is only ten degrees, but the flash point differences increase dramatically as you go from dino, to semisynth to cheap synth to full ester synth. And Brands do make a difference. This chart can give you an idea, although these are not the ideal oils: http://micapeak.com/info/oiled.html (note, for all I know, that could be Amsoil propaganda, I did not get my friends at FBI to look deeply into this matter. I am just posting to show that there are significant differences)

I guess I missed the line for the NWO green cards. You probably have to be Teabaggin' Sarah Palin disciple to get one.

You have been reported to the FBI.