dlaing

I certainly did consider getting the Wilbers, and I know my doubts about customer service would be alleviated if I went through you, rather than HyperPro, but the HyperPro Rising rate spring appealled to me. Of course if you knock off 20% I could get a Wilbers and then have money left over for HyperPro rising rate Spring!!! But it could be the rising rate spring sucks I think Ratchet or I got info from HyperPro that the spring was about a 517# transitioning to 728#spring. The 517# is fine, but if it gets stiff too quickly, that will be no good. Also, the Wilbers has the best looking shock when you order the "classic"

I like to wear my socks, thank you very much. I love my Guzzi for what it is and what it can be. It is more fun making it better. If I was worried about resale value it would be a mistake to keep dropping coin into it. The Guzzi gets it soul from the engine. Who cares if it only goes 140 veglia MPH. It would be nice if it was faster, but the Guzzi engine provides me with a motorcycling experience that is irreplaceable. Perhaps ignorance is bliss, but when I visualize myself on revvvier bike it does not feel right. Since a Guzzi is the only bike I have room for, I have to make the best of it. The Ohlins, Wilbers, HyperPro, or Penske on the rear will turn the bike into a more comfortable and better handling bike, and I won't have to worry about the Sachs eye cracking. You can continue along risking your life with the Sachs, as I have for over 35,000 miles, or you can get with the program and turn the bike into something much more pleasureable than a Tuono. Awesome! I nominate you as head engineer at Guzzi!

I must admit, I have been bitten by a fear of failing Ohlins seals. So much so that I have narrowed down my choice of shock to either Penske or HyperPro. None of the aftermarket shocks are known for getting cracked eyelets, like the Sachs For that reason alone, Ratchethack and others are justified to spend money on aftermarket shocks. The Ohlins is a fine choice, but from what Dr. Know said about his experience with them, it leaves many of us with some doubt. Some have more doubt than others My most recent research shows: HyperPro ~$750 with three way dampening adjustability HyperPro ~$500 with rebound dampening adjustability Wilbers ~$750-800(from memory ) with three way dampening adjustability (Note wilbersUSA web site posted that prices will go up in January) Penske ~$1050 with three way dampening adjustability Penske ~$715 with two way dampening adjustability Ohlins ~$880 with two way dampening adjustability I was adamant about having the shock built to Ohlins dimensions. Penske can do it, but I lose ride height adjustability....which I don't want anyway, because of the limited range of our shock. Hyperpro can do it, and I am now sure Wilbers can if HyperPro can. From what I have read on the net, HyperPro is no more reliable than Ohlins. Penske has a great reputation, but the price for the three way dampening adjustability is a bit much for my old sow. The two way Penske is well priced, but I have fears of excessive high speed compression damping. So, I don't know what to do. It will probably boil down to which salesman gets back to me first. I guess if I follow the logic of most of the majority of the posters in this thread, I should just stay with my Sachs or buy a $500 shock. But I believe that because the Guzzi has heavy unsprung weight on the rear it needs a great shock, and we should not just roll over and live with the pig like like wallowing and discomfort.

Gary Cheek is helping me re-wire mine with relays. I took a before photo and hope to show an after photo, with luck, today. I messed up on the shrink wrap (I think it was a plastic drinking straw for my green shrink wrap ) And now it is too difficult to slide the shrink wrap that works over my crimped and soldered connector, so I will use liquid electrical tape, which is ugly. So, don't expect a photo of the installation

I agree, as forks cost more than twice as much as shocks, but in my opinion the front is more important. To me it was a difficult choice of whether to initially put more money into the front first or the rear first. What decided it for me was the availability of Low mile Ohlins from a trusted source, carbon fender, axle, spacer, and bearings, all for $2000. A savings of well over $500 off of MSRP. And a little less than $500 off of street prices. So, I guess I had some luck If the deal did not present itself, I probably would have gone a similar route to Ratchet's. But I would have resprung the rear first, as it was further out of sag.

Ohlins recommends: I suspect those with fork seal failures are not doing this regularly enough. Also it could have something to do with high oil levels or just luck, like finding Guzzis in the trash I don't have the Öhlins red grease (146-01) so, I use silicone grease or a little silione spray(sprayed on a rag, to prevent overspray on the brake disks.)

I wish I was that lucky. You are probably one of those people who actually wins in Vegas More power to you My only saving grace is I don't bet more than I can afford to lose. With your luck, maybe you will find a pair of Ohlins Forks with leaky seals for $250 But maybe we are all lucky and luck only works well enough to give us what we need and not what we want

I think Jaap should make you a moderator.....ABIDE!

It was no less offensive than what I posted. The only difference is you did not name me in criticism of Ohlins converts. Meanwhile you are a Wilbers convert. When talking front suspension ignoring the rear is for fools as the two interact. I thought you knew that.

Just trying to keep you straight and making sure you are not a hypocrite. Throwing around insults about imaginary snake oil salesmen, and you spend ~$120 on forks, calling people fools for not doing the atleast the same and then you are critical of spending more and getting Ohlins, but then you spend ~$750 on a shock. Sorry, but I don't get your logic. And you are the one busting my chops when you say, "I've seen guys replace their Marz forks with Ohlins without ever having anywhere near a proper match of spring rate to load on the Marz forks, thereby never experiencing what the Marz forks were capable of. To each his own. knownothing.gif " Atleast you understand the "To each his own" concept.

I keep thinking toilet paper sheet, but I like the idea of a thorough pipe suck better

I was starting to think Bill was pulling our legs about a red Norge, but they apparently do exist:

So, did that Wilbers shock turn out to be a waste of money? I doubt it. Customized to your exact ride height and travel and spring weight and rebound damping and high speed compression damping and low speed compression damping. Or were you frugal and got the model without compression adjustment? Those rebound adjustment ones are a pretty good deal if the compression damping is about right. No resevoir to worry about.

I guess you did not fill out the TPS report (movie "Office Space" joke) Throttle Position Sensor. The doodad located on the right but not the left throttle body, with wires coming out of it.

I was just joshing you. It is better you break it in properly rather than 500 shivering white knuckle miles Thanks for the replies Sean and Bill. But I second the motion for pictures of the red-one.

At 100 kg you will really benefit from respringing. There are lots of opinions on what the best thing to do is. Assuming you don't want to spend $4000 on a $6000 bike, start out by respringing. I don't know for sure as it is a subjective science, but 500 to 575 pounds per inch springs for the shock is about right 550#/in. might be your best bet if you ride sportilly, and 1.0 to 1.1kg/mm for the forks with 1.1kg/mm being the best bet if you ride sportilly. Wilbers makes a progressive spring for the front that would work well, and HyperPro makes a progressive spring for the rear that might work well. Ratchet and I investigated the HyperPro and came to the conclusion that it might be a bit stiff, but for your weight it may be the best solution for a street bike.

500 to 600 lbs/inch I weigh 210lbs plus leathers, etc. and have a 475# spring that is just a little too soft. I am going to try 525#, but would recommend 550# for your weight. Sorry, I am surprised nobody responded.

I must have completely missed the snake oil sales pitch. So, maybe you can explain to me who is pitching the snake oil he is talking about when he said, "Making it "better" is entirely subjective, and many around these parts will recommend vastly different things as universal snake-oil cure-alls that, well, (ahem) IMHO in many cases, aren't quite. dry.gif "

So, you have many options, all of which assume you will use a premium liquid in the forks. Don't do anything and be the scorn of people like you know who. Price: Free! why labor? Modify the spacers, this is very inexpensive, basically just your labor. Get new springs to match the lardiness of your derriere, Price:a little over $100 plus labor. Send the forks to an expert for springs and revalving, Price: maybe about $1000, but you may lose damping adjustability. plus the labor of you removing the forks and shipping them. Get a pair of Ohlins R&T Price:new about $2500 after necessary modifiications, plus labor. You could save a lot of money if you buy them second hand. Get a pair of Ohlins SuperBike Price: If you have to ask, you can't afford them Just kidding, I am too lazy to look up the price. While you are at it, you might consider radial mounted brakes. Price:more money. In my opinion Guzzis are not about maximum horsepower, and spending $10,000 to get 10 more HP is a little on the not for everybody side, but there is nothing wrong with improving the ergonomics, the comfort, and the handling. If I spend $5000 doing that, the bike becomes more valuable to me than the new Ducati tax form numbered bike or just about any machine from Japan. For me a BMW has just about everything I want out of the box for $15,000, but it would leave me less satisfied then a bike buildt out of thousands of forum posts, lots of dreaming, chating at bike meets, a little elbow grease, and lots of ching, but still less ching than the BMW. I replaced my forks with 26,000 miles on them, so I got some of money's worth out of them, and they are still in my garage in case I need them. Or you can buy my Marzocchis today for $1000 Less than half the price of Ohlins

Piaggio should pay you for that photo That should be the site of Guzzi Norge rallies for years to come

MPH the only place in the USA to buy a Norge I know MPH has a reputation for great service, and I realize that Carl only had a few hundred miles to truck the bike back, as if it were a Harley custom nut rattler, but all the way from Atlanta???? Do you guys HATE your local dealers, or is MPH getting them grey market? Or are they the only ones ordering them from Piaggio? Did MPH offer a better price? By the way, I am not one to talk about supporting local dealers, as I went 300 miles to save $1000. Enjoy the bikes, Carl and Bill. People who have ridden them, really enjoyed them

Yah, that is the place. http://www.hmb-guzzi.de/ I seem to recall they were previously marketing them on eBay

9000 miles in 1.5 years on the third hand Ohlins, and no leak...knock on wood. You get what you pay for, but with diminishing returns for your hard earned dollars. I probably paid nearly 20X the price of a properly matched set of springs for the Marz fork I could have paid even 30X-40X and gotten the Superbike forks instead of the R&T. In any case, the result of the R&T forks from a Cafe Sport is spectacular Can I go any faster? Probably only on curvy, bumpy roads. Where it really shines is in the comfort department. I still need to increase the spring weight a little as it is probably the perfect weight for touring, but for sport touring it should be firmer, but with MORE bike only sag. I weigh about 215 plus leathers and other gear. I am running a 475#/inch spring and it is too soft, but matches the Ohlins pretty well. I will get a better shock for more than 10X what I paid for the rear spring, but until I do I will put up with the cushy spring in the Ohlins forks. I am still debating HyperPro$750 vs. Penske$1050. Both have three way damping adjustment. The HyperPro has a progressive spring that MAY be too firm(one way to find out) I have requests in with HyperProUSA and Lindemann Engineering to see if they can build it to the length and travel that Ohlins specifies for our bike, 286mm length, eye to eye, and 70mm travel. From what I understand so far, the minimum shock body length may prohibit it reaching the Ohlins dimensions. I'll see how close they can get it. If it is not close enough, I may have to "settle" for Ohlins I believe Ratchethack prefers dimensions closer to the Sachs' 276mm/60mm that results in less shaft angle, which should prolong the life of the shaft and transfer power better. YMMV going to the Cafe sport Ohlins I had to change the fender, the axle, axle nut, axle washer, the bearing spacer, and one of the bearings. Mike Stewart sold me the forks, the carbon fiber fender, the Ducati axle, one new bearing, and he custom made me a bearing spacer on his lathe The bearing spacer was the only thing I feared having trouble sourcing, but it is simple and could been made cheaply. Although I really like the Ohlins, for about half the $2000 I paid for the Ohlins set up, I could have paid Traxxion about $1000 for springs and revalving. I think that may be a better way to go. However some people have gotten Ohlins for under $1500. One strategy would be to re-spring now, and then keep your eyes open for Ohlins forks. Someone has New Ohlins for sale for about 1500 Euros, was it Teo Lamers???

Yah, come visit and I'll take you clubbing But not for seals

Yes! All should be good as long as the dealer does not enrichen it too much. The PCIII is still a benefit, but downloaded maps available on the internet may not offer a benefit or may make it worse after the dealer tweaks the trim, the CO, and the TPS away from base settings to enrichen it to work with your mods. This is because your dealer may be making it rich and then the PCIII may make it too rich. This is why tuning it to basic stock specifications before adding the PCIII is a good idea, especially if you want to use a downloaded map. Theoretically the maps were created with modified bikes that were running stock tuning specifications. When you use a PCIII you want to be able to bring the bike back to the state of tune that works with that map. If you have your dealer makes a notation of the exact TPS, air screw, and valve settings, then you can bring it back to that state of tune later.(more or less, because the engine will break in and wear out and the state of tune will change) If you dyno tune a custom map after the dealer tunes the bike, you will be fine if the dealer tells you the tuning settings.