dlaing

I hope he is still in business. Web presences disappear for various reasons.... Here is some contact info Business Hours: Mon - Fri 9am - 5pm ( EST) Closed Sat & Sun Toll Free Sales Only 1 - 866 - 676 - 7767 For Technical Assistance / Fax Please Call 1 - 570 - 676 - 4785 International Tech / Sales / Fax 001- 570 -676 - 4785 Postal Address Mike Rich Motorsports PO Box 521 Newfoundland, PA 18445 I'll bet these email addresses are no good now... Electronic mail Sales, Services, Customer Support: service@mikerichmotorsports.com Webmaster: admin@mikerichmotorsports.com

OK, how much did you have to pay the hot paddock girl to pose with you?

the city doesn't need a Nicky monument, it needs a better barber. http://www.owensboro.org/page.php/City%20G...phies/index.php No wonder Nicky always wears a hat

This cam kit looks interesting...

Nurse Ratchet and I disagree on everything except for Wally World Filters, Fine Motorcycles, and uh, erh, ummm, let me get back to you about the third thing...I know there must be something else we agreed on. Aha! I remember the third thing. HomeTown Buffet!!!! Ratchet and I are regulars. We both sit there for hours maximizing the all you can eat bang for the buck. But somehow Ratchet does not put on the pounds the way I do... But I bet we both hate Wally Woild. The oil filters are about the only thing I buy there. In my entire life, I think I spent less than $200 dollars there of which $80 was for a battery for my mom and $30 was for a stash of oil filters....I had to stock up before they start making them with cannibal labor....like they use for most of the crap at Wally World. I prefer Sears, KMart, Target, Marshall's Hardware, and internet shopping.

PS Don't forget to remove the sticker from the filter, because if it come off in the engine it could do some damage...or so I am told

And now you have proven to have the skill to be a locust abortion technician Were you schoolled by the Bulb Hole Surfers?

"Who the heck is Jeb Frankin?!!?!?!!!!!!" said Mayor Watson

Let me translate all that for you all. __________ _____________________ Go to Walmart and buy the SuperTech ST3614.

three pounds is 66.667% of five pounds, making 33.333% being roughly the correct difference. But five pounds is 166.667% of three pounds, making 66.667% being roughly the correct difference. So the correct answer, assuming BFG can work a scale and remember numbers, is 66.667% more than your answer. It is all relative...

It is pretty easy to remove the shroud, just remove all the clips and then pry the lens off the reflector. It is not glued on as I originally thought when I used pliars to force the shroud through the little hole Anyway, the light is better with no shroud...just potentially more blinding to oncoming vehicles....but not in a big way, so don't worry, be happy.

I have no idea, but I am sure he looked at the bright side of it being just an extended donut break

Is there a thread on how to dress gaskets? There sure are enough products and techniques. Hylomar Silicone RTF YamahondaducatiBOND aka threebond grease oil dry For valve cover gaskets I use a non hardening dressing on the easier to clean, valve cover side, and a little grease on the engine side. I do simiilarly with the sump. I don't know if it is the best way to go. I have used gasket removing sprays and hate the stuff. Perhaps I should try the lacquer thinner that Ratchet suggests, then I might consider putting dressing on both sides. But one warning about gasket dressing is to go very light with it, and don't goop it over the edge on the engine side or you MAY get plugged oil galleys or other malfunctions. I like the non-hardening properties of the Hylomar Blue. I have not tried the ThreeBond, but I think it works about the same. Silicone gasket tends to be too thick, but may have advantages if your mating surface is scored, nicked, dinged, etc. Silicone also seems to lose adhesion when exposed to oil. Does anyone still use hardened gasket dressing? I guess it might be good for places like the upper sump that may only be accessed once every twenty years. Enough rambling...food time!

Someone took a photo of a Mistral crossover cut open and it was very surprising how small the crossover holes were. The OEM crossover is pretty wide open. I'd love to see the Stucchi cut open, but I doubt we'll have any volunteers. The Mistral and OEM had room for improvement, but the Stucchi appears to be as good as it gets.

Can you buy stock in Repsol? I better stock up on it before they jack the price

It gets pretty complex, which I guess is why trial and error is best way to find out. If you got unladen sag of 25 mm, laden 38 mm at your 180lb weight with stock 110mm spacer, presumably with nut set to 22mm, then bubba, at 280 lbs might be putting 40lbs on the front, and up to 100lbs more when braking. With the Wilbers, he'll probably need to set unladen sag to about 15 mm, and laden sag to about 38mm. Setting the nut to 32mm might get him close to that target. Perhaps Ratchet has a better idea of the relationship of preload to sag. I am guessing Bubba's weight to increase sag about 10mm. I calculated the 40lbs to increase sag 0.5inches or 12.7mm assuming the springs are 2x 0.714kg/mm, the actual rate and progressivity of the spring, and the angle of the forks, will change the actual sag number, which is why I took 2.7mm off the measurement to come up with the nice round 10mm Bubba should also have the oil level set a little higher than yours to help keep it from bottoming while braking, but not so high it limits travel. A heavier rider does benefit more from a progressive spring because of the effects of weight shifting forward. I think it is better to overset the preload a bit at first to see how close to bottoming one is getting. But a guesstimation chart for rider weights and preload might look something like this for the Wilbers: rider weight in lbs ***** mm of blue nut preload using 110mm spacer 80# ***** 12mm 130 ***** 14mm 180 ***** 17mm 230 ***** 22mm 280 ***** 32mm Again a total guessimate Only the 17mm at 180 is based on my interpretation of Ratchet's experience, which is still in development, and which without, we would all be much more in the dark.

Could be the Dyno guys in Amsterdam have too much fun

Never say never. Sorry I missed it. Now off to the garage to fix the leak in the rear box that may prohibit me missing the Hansen Damn Britbike Ride. Think cleaning the seal and new oil will fix???? Or maybe I should just buy a damn Triumph

Heavier gauge is probably what they meant. I guess I found the dyno, from MotoGuzzinix http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/lofiversio....php/t7429.html But keep in mind he made the OEM LaFranconi free-er flowing (to the tune of 3HP) before dynoing it with the Stucchi. For him the Stucchi was not really beneficial. But tuning and dynos is strange stuff. Jaap's Mistral crossover dyno results are strangely very different than that of people in the US

Thanks Ratchet. I guess when someone told me the Stucchi was heavy, they meant robust, not heavy. My apologies. But I swear someone posted a disappointing dyno of the OEM LaFranconi's with the Stucchi....I just can't find it.

As was just suggested, I expect it is basically just what you see on the outside and that the crossover area is maximized. Of course the crossover could be partially blocked, but I doubt it. It is interesting that the Mistral crossover is much more of an H crossover than the Stucchi, and the result seems to be greater mid range at the expense of top end. I suspect this is from less flow actually crossing over, as it more easily crosses over in an X crossover. I suspect the OEM crossover results in the biggest hole in the midrange because of the crossover allows flow to expand and find the least path of resistance through either muffler, but at the expense of the cylinder flows interfering with each other. The Stucchi also splits the flow to maximize top end power, but it keeps the direction flowing outward so there is less cross cylinder interference. Of course the advantage of the OEM vs the Stucchi is the noise suppression, and maybe lighter weight. It would be nice to have an X crossover that you could adjust the crossover section according to RPM, with it closed for RPMs below 5000, but opening up for the higher RPMs. But it is difficult to predict results. I recall someone posted how the OEM mufflers did not work great with the Stucchi, something I wouldn't have and didn't predict. I was hoping it would have worked, because it could have meant more power with a reasonable noise level.

You mean global warming, the cow's ass. The more methane you can burn, the better for reducing global warming, I think I think I'll put some fake solar panels on my roof, a cow, a hose, a collector, a generator, and then get free electricity and claim it is solar powered (which technically it is solar powered, like everything) I hope my neighbors won't mind the stench.

Apparently the 250i is eddy current LOW inertia, still from a perfectionists stand point, the WBO2 sensor that he uses is better designed for a quick tune, than an optimal tune. http://www.factorypro.com/dyno/dyno_locs.html may clue you in to a much more expensive, but superior tune. Or better yet, as a perfectionist engineer, you might look at mapping software, a CO meter, and a logging WBO2, and what the heck, an exhaust gas temperature sensor and an onboard dynometer. The CO meter that we mortals can afford is probably only good for steady state tuning, and therefore, mostly good just for measuring idle CO. Mapping software gives you the ultimate control. WBO2 is of disputable value. Exhaust gas temperature logging should give a clue to help one make better use of WBO2 data. I have no idea how well onboard dynos work. From what I understand, they work either through accelleration calculations or through G-Force. In either case, I doubt they are very accurate, but I sure could be wrong.

It reads like you need Pyro Dan's GEI relays, http://www.dpguzzi.com/relay.htm You'll need atleast one to replace your starter relay. To test, simply swap the relay with another. To recognize the starter relay, it is the only one that jacks into a socket where five contacts are installed. The other relay sockets utilize four contacts. See Carl's diagram http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/sch...9_V11_sport.gif notice how all the relays have four wires going to them, but the starter relay has five wires going to it. The fifth wire puts too heavy of a load on the relay, as the stock relays are close to the margin of handling that load through that terminal. It carries the load of the items that are not working for you.

I eliminated the crossover on my V65SP, and it seemed to work fine and have a cleaner sound. I might like to do the same with my V11, but keep in mind the cylinder fueling offsets programmed into ECU were built around a stock crossover and presumably stock mufflers. Obviously people get great results going to aftermarket crosssovers, but the best results if you eliminate a crossover will probably occur after remapping the cylinder offset. I use TuneBoy for remapping the ECU, but PCIIIUSB models can also handle cylinder offset. I think the result of no crossover would be a little less power, more at high rpms, unless your mufflers are very free flowing, but potentially better balance between cylinders. But I am just guessing about all that as nobody seems to have done it and documented before and after dyno tunes.