dlaing

If you can settle for wideband O2 sensor dynotuning, John Tavolacci is your man! http://www.dyno-solutions.com/ He owns one of the fastest Guzzis on this forum. If you spend more money, Derek may be able to recommend a multi-gas tuner. Multi-gas dyno-tuning is much more accurate, but much slower, and thus more expensive. There is some dispute about the effectiveness of tuning just with a wideband oxygen sensor, as it may actually make the bike worse. But if you follow people's posts the majority have good results. I was one of the exceptions. In general the tuning link helped my bike, but it increased pinging in one map area. I don't know of anyone on this forum, other than maybe Derek, who has multigas dynotuned their Guzzi, but it will produce better results. The method Alex-Corsa is using should also produce good results with alot of patience, intelligence, and effort.

That is certainly the problem with the narrow band sesors. I am surprised there are not more studies available on the internet discussing the accuracy of the WBO2 sensors. The closest thing I saw to an analysis of their accuracy was a comparison of sensors, and they did vary quite a lot. You definitely have to take the reading on them only as a relative number, even though all the manufacturers say they are 0.1% accurate, and you have to keep in mind that measured ratio is greatly effected by timing and other less predictable variations.

I have a plan...

The correct way to order is not, "yo'female private part :-), gimme a McGriddlessausageeggandcheeseandahashbrown" The correct way is, "Howdy Mam. May I please have a 'Sausage, Egg & Cheese McGriddles®' and a 'Hash Browns'" Be sure to enunciate and swallow your saliva before speaking to reduce the drooling and the chance of spitting while talking But I think you may be right about Mackydee being Satan. Ronald Mccccc Donald 666 Everyday McDonalds poisons nearly 50 million people in their insidious attempt to slowly kill off the world's dummest people. Resist the temptation

Thanks Derek, I did not know that. I thought the measuring of CO and HC with a WBO2 began somewhere in the 13.x:1, not the richer than 12:1 range. EDIT I went back and read that heavy shit and can't quite figure it out. It seems to me that they would not have bothered engineering in the rich CO and H reading if it was not at a useful range of A:F, like 12.x-13.x:1 EDIT From reading, it seems to me that it is measuring CO and H2 whenever it is richer stoichmetric....but I found nothing definitive.

The www.diablo.getpirelli.com offer is sold out, but the Cyclegear deal does not end till this Saturday....but they changed the available tire to Metzeler M1s http://www.cyclegear.com/mailcoupon/email_ST_10-23-06.html

Hi Derek, Don't forget that the WBO2 sensor under rich conditions is actually measuring CO and HC and relying on equations to estimate the air to fuel ratio. http://www.megasquirt.info/PWC/LSU4.htm

RadioShack will sell you one that is not waterproof, but it will last till you get one mail order. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...hl=brake+switch

Thanks Ratchet. This is where I disagree, because I don't think it has been proven that it is safe to run at the minimum mark. Greg was generous enough to risk his engine testing, but I don't think he tested enough times to determine the low point of critical failure. I was hoping someone would pull the pan and sump spacer and attach just the two of them together, along with the sheet, and do a tilt test. The theoretical minimum would be determined by tilting it back, simulating accelleration, and finding a level maximum where the oil is just about to lose pickup and just about lose sloppage stoppage. Once that amount of fluid is determined, tilt it level and measure how far below the sheet that point is, and then add atleast 10mm for safety and the assumption that oil will be leaving the pump and also assuming the slosh will not be level, but rather tempestuous. (in which case the excercise of measuring the inclination may have been futile.) I also understand that the windage properties of the sheet (by the way, it is technically sheet metal and not plate metal) will help keep more oil in the sump, especially over the period of an oil change. But I don't think it is enough to effect the oil level by more than 5mm on any given ride. Greg's testing showed that the mid point on the stick was critically vulnerable without the sheet, so I would not trust that the windage properties alone made the mid point safe. Although his test did show it was fine at that point. I just don't know how his test would have faired on a hotter day with thinner oil, on a steeper hill, with a soft sprung tail with too much sag. Also for the Helicopter Jims of the world, it seems like the no brainer is to fill it to the bottom of the sheet, so when they ride wheelies their engine does not seize. But that oil level may not last. Further testing will tell. The methodology of filling the oil to the bottom of the sheet and running the engine till it blows the oil down to a stable level is fine for determining the high mark, but not the low mark. Don't get me wrong, this is a great product, and it will expand the safe high and low levels, it is just that the factory low was way too low and the safe low is higher than the low mark and possibly higher than the mid mark. I don't believe we can advocate that the low mark is safe. The safe high and low levels without the sheet are probably something narrow like between 7.9mm and 8.0mm above the high mark, atleast according to my darkest guzzichondriacal nightmares. If Greg will set his to the low mark and go for a some full throttle runs up some steep bumpy hills to test it, I'll eat my words. EDIT Here are some nice photos taken presumably the same day Ratchet measured: http://www.flickr.com/photos/98476523@N00/...9179611/detail/

Most of that made sense to me. I only have two doubts. One was with the statement, " To do this most effectively the oil should be as close to it as possible underneath but NOT have any residual above it because...." I don't think "residual" is what you meant to say, because residual is inevitable. I assume you meant you simply don't want excessive build-up on top of the sheet. My other doubt is with it finding its own level. That is all fine, as long as that level is not to the point that Greg was experiencing oil pressure loss. I seem to recall that was at about the mid-point on the dip stick, which according to Ratchet's measurements, would be about 28mm below the sheet. At that level, oil starvation may occur before the sheet stops the sloppage. If Ratchet sets his to 21mm he should be fine, because his bike will not go significantly lower. But it seems that others should keep it topped up to at least the high mark. Heck my reasoning could be flawed. Personally I would prefer the sheet about 20mm lower than your design. But your design is simple, perfectly functional and simply saves the engine from starvation. It effectively expands the safe high and low levels, but not to the overly low, low mark on the dipstick. I guess we will know more as more people simply let the oil find its own low level.

The Airforce uses a similar strategy, so it MUST be safe from wikipedia If you can sleep after a Zombie Film, I doubt you have sleeping problems

I think you need a bigger magnet

Give me inclination liberty or give me death! Step 1 Set sag to 0mm Step 2 Remove sidestand (who needs it when you are riding???) Step 3 Get those bitchin' RossoPuro rearsets Step 4 Enjoy the Schräglagefreiheit If that does not work, I have some more ideas.

Whe said anything about brushing and flossing? Just swish and gargle with whiskey and swallow, and yes regularly It could be one of your pistons is a little tight or oxidized or plaque or gingivitus. THAT may need brushing, or rather something more abrasive than Listerine or Jim Beam. Worst case scenario, dentures Speaking of which, is there a cross reference for the rear brake disk with Ducati or Aprillia? It would be nice to put a floater back there, and maybe an upgraded caliper.

Good job with the camera I tried but could not match your photo. I agree with the others that the position is fine. The side that wore, was probably sticking. The caliper pistons need to be cleaned every tire change...or more frequently. I clean mine with silicone spray, followed up with brake cleaner on metal parts. Be sure to clean the rotor and pads with brake cleaner, and don't get any silicone on your tire Some people refuse to use silicone in that area, but carefully done, it is safe. By the time you clean up the silicone with brake cleaner, the only silicone should on the piston. The other reason some don't use silicone is that it attracts dirt. But I would rather have some lubricated dirt than a little unlubricated dirt and dry seals. YMMV

But don't under do it either. To be effective, the oil that sloshes back has to hit the sheet ceiling and fill the sloping sloshing volume between the sheet and pickup. The low mark on the dipstick is about as low as I feared in my parallax nightmares. Thank you RatchetHack for confirming. Greg Field suggested filling it much higher, like right up to the bottom of the sheet. That may be the way to go for wheeliers. Perhaps a high mark in the vicinity of 10-15mm and a low mark around 20-25mm would be more ideal for mature sport riders. Or use the same marks, but don't screw the dipstick in...as also suggested by Greg. I suppose I'll defer to Greg and Pete for their expertise.

Now that I think about it, the centering of the wheel is irrelevant. But what is important is obviously the position of the wheel to the brake. The only things that I think could move the caliper too close to the wheel are that the caliber has been shimmed or washered in the direction of the wheel, or the left wheel bearing is caving in, or the brake bracket is bent, or he is missing the same washer that I am?!?! But my caliber appears to be well centered so, I don't think we are missing a washer/shim. EDIT (inspired by DVH's request for images....) Don't know if this helps Is your caliper closer to the wheel than that?

Keep in mind the manual sucks for diagraming where to put spacers, washers, shims, etc. It may be possible that you have the infamous short bearing spacer and that your bearings are getting crushed....but that would only account for ABOUT half a millimeter off center. If you forgot the spacer "D" between the wheel and the rear drive, that could throw it off center. I guess by German standards she is pretty thin FWIW I don't mean centering the swingarm, but ensuring the bearing spacer is correct, the bearings are seated properly, and the spacer "D" is used correctly and that there are no incorrect placements of washers, shims, spacers, etc., that would result in the wheel being off center. PS, my rear drive seal is going, so I may be doing some exploration in that area... Maybe I'll take some photos...

I think the problem is not the centering of the caliper, but the centering of the wheel. See image below for further understanding: If you are looking for the image below this point, it could be you already understand.

The forum sponsor RossoPuro has some beauties. And apparently they have excellent service, even for anglophones. The site is a little tricky to navigate. Look for indice catalogo Moto Guzzi Accessori in alluminio KIT PEDANE ARRETRATE V11 - 1100 Sport

I see. Somehow, sexual objectification of women is OK on this forum. But analyzing how religious zealots cover women's faces with veils and their hooters with nipple hidding layers, claiming to protect them from objectification, while keeping them as sexual objects. The hypocrisy must be broken! Let us celebrate the woman in all her glory, from her glammed up toe nails to that thing in her head that helps her understand how stupid violence is for remedying political disagreement. It is certainly not just an American issue.

I just ordered the Cycle Gear Pirelli Diablo SuperSport deal mentioned here, but then I discovered the following: http://www.diablo.getpirelli.com/ where they are currently offering the Diablo CorsaIII Which is a better tire????

This time Jim Lindemann replied quickly (I just forgot to post the sad news...) WP does not make a shock for our bike....(but I bet they could if they gave one ummph of effort... So for me, it is Wilbers,HyperPro, or Penske. EDIT 12/10/06 after a few email exchanges with Jim L., I am getting closer to a Penske shock. Just waiting to hear if he can make it to my desired dimensions. Apparently it comes with 10mm range of height adjustment. The price for the shock with high speed adjuster is 1054 us dollars ...but I can't afford to buy it and find out the damping is too stiff and it needs to be sent in for shimming....maybe I should go with Wilbers and save money

I have wondered if Wilbers can provide a progressive shock spring. If Todd can offer it, you will get better tech support WP, intrax, technoflex, wilbers and hyperpro all have common business associations, and the technoflex, wilbers and hyperpro look pretty darn similar. But as far as I know, the HyperPro is the only one of the bunch with rising rate springs for the rear mono shock. However, I suspect Works Performance Shocks might be able to add dual rate springs to the Penske. Still, a HyperPro rising rate spring may do the trick!

IMNSHO the "right" sag is subjective to taste. If I were going to tour the US and Canada, I would be happiest with the Wilbers springs, a touring windscreen, more upright and rearward handle bars, bike only sag of 5-10mm, and rider and bike sag of ~40mm, and a well tuned air spring.... But that is only my opinion, and it is certainly your right to be beaten up on the super slabs riding on firm springs, while I have the right to be cursing with every pot hole and aggressive braking. The choice is safety and control versus comfort. Of course it is only hypothetical that the softest spring that does not bottom out will offer more comfort, but I stand by that hypothesis. I have no doubt that more riders will be happier following Ratchet's definition of the right sag, I am only pointing out that the right sag is subjective to the rider.