dlaing

How did you attach the leads?

I am sure Erik Buell spent many sleepless nights contemplating different ways to grab just one more HP. If add a few HP here and few HP there, and loose a few ounces here and a few ounces there, you get a lean mean screaming machine. Of course there is nothing wrong with lowering your compression to reduce pinging, putting socks over the snorkles to pre-filter out more dirt, adding cromed steel spoked wheels, steel fenders, brass bearing spacers, reduce your timing....before you know it, you'll have a nice heavy slow bike. ..or you could just by a Ural But some of us chose to go the other direction.

Definitely of interest! I wonder what the gains would be if you remapped for all the various changes Presumably no airbox would create the leanest running condition, and therefore would benefit the most from tuning. However, experiences shared on this forum indicate the most power coming from PCIII custom mapped bikes with the lidless airbox and not the K&N Pods.

just a warning...if you take the switch off, the ball bearing will seek out the only hole in your floor where it cannot be retrieved :!: FWIW some posts of replacement switches.

I think I see your dipstick Thanks Greg, for posting that as it nearly clearly shows how high the level is. I thought it was much lower.

Excellent questions and ideas! It is certainly POSSIBLE that in the real world the bone stock setup is faster. But theoretically, I doubt it has advantages towards faster accelleration. The angle and size of the snorkles is designed to minimize sound and keep debris and rain out, while not strangling the engine, too much. It does appear to give a very small increase in positive pressure, and more importantly it picks up the air from a cooler place. ...but not enough to give a wallop of power If they wanted real world benefits of ram air, they would have to funnel the air into the airbox starting with a much bigger mouth, and it would have to face forward, but still provide deflection and drainage of water and debris. FWIW, I really like GuzziJack's approach Tracy Martin's sewer pipe is not a bad idea, either. Regarding crankcase venting air pressure, I'll bet the engine can develop more power and make less milkshake if there is less crankcase air pressure. I know my filter housing could never pass a white glove test, regardless of filter, because my crankcase vents so much oil. However, compared to Greg's dry clean machine, my oil warning light does not go off even though I run my oil at a much lower level than he does. It does not make sense to me.

Damn! after 10000 miles each pleat would be more than half full! So do you replace the filter every 1000 miles, or just dump it out every 1000 so that it lasts 10,000? Have you considered a pre-filter, like a mesh screen? Are you still using the lid and snorkles? I used to go topless with my BMC, but Ratchet convinced me that gauss filters pass too much through. I definitely lost some HP when I put the lid back on, but too much crap was falling in without the lid and snorkles. Still if I went to paper it would run even more cleanly....maybe after the BMC gets worn out a bit....I think it has been cleaned three times so far. I wish there were some tests that compared the BMC to the K&N PS if you go lidless with a paper filter, I imagine rain would be a problem.

The respect scenes were edited out and reserved for the VIP video that you get when buy one of Mo's bikes. "rock your butt around a bit, yaaahhh" Despicable! And it is no wonder that Mo likes loop frames, because they too, rock their butt around a bit If you want to meet Mo and a Guzzi Girl or two (he usually brings an entourage ) you should try to make it to the MotoEuroFest this October

Try taking the linkage apart, cleaning it, lube lightly, reassemble. A gear oil change would not hurt, either. Redline shockproof, or quality gear oil with moly additive. This thread has some good insight regarding moly and Shockproof http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...ic=8897&hl= Janusz turned some of us on to ShockProof a few years ago http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...pic=124&hl= Others, like Hank and VKerrigan were also early pioneers in its use as was its greatest advocate, Ratchethack who has shared his valuable experience with us and been a great endorser of the product for years http://www.redlineoil.com/ If anyone knows great prices on it, please share your source.

Readying myself for more insult... and the same image without Ernst's drawing overlayed: http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/1339/forratchettq4.jpg Note the straight lines I drew should be within a mm of Ernst's measurements. I did not write the numbers next to the straight colored lines, but they correspond to Ernst's drawing's numbers. You can see that despite the ugliness of his drawing with measurements, it is pretty faithful to the measurements listed. The lines do not follow the photos perfectly, but I think it helps visualize better than the drawings alone. Sorry Ratchet, if you don't appreciate it. I did not know how big the pistons were, but going off the 77mm number, I ended up with the pistons being about 90mm. Unfortunately the Mike Rich piston photo did not line up as well, but still, GREAT MINDS can see what Mike is achieving.

If I I did not appreciate your inaccurate drawing and if was more like Ratchet, I might write something like the following:

If you don't know now, you never will. I guess I'll move on without your apology. You'll get the respect you earned.

That sounds too good to be true! This website seems to suggest adding it at 10 to 25% of the base http://www.powerpunch.biz/Power_Punch_Applications.html So that would mean I would need about a quart every 4 years....since I plan on killing myself in 40 years, I'll only need 10 quarts. Do I get a discount for a shortened lifetime supply? What is the shipping on this lifetime supply? My problem with buying ShockProof is not that I think there is anything better, but after shipping and tax, the total price for a quart is around $15. I suppose it is good piece of mind to buy what may be the best. If anyone has a less expensive source in the USA, I'd like to know about it. Thanks.

Here you go...apologize, and we'll drop it and move on to more important things From the sloppage sheet prototype? thread:

KalGard Moly also appears promising http://www.kalgard.com/kalgard_automotive.htm They have moly enhanced gear oil that I suspect is mineral based. But it does not have the cool colors of Redline shockproof, and it is not synthetic. I am more interested in the Engine Gard additive, which I could add to a cheap synthetic gear oil like Mobil or Shell. The Dow Corning stuff also looks excellent. Here is an interesting test comparing two other premium brands: Schaeffers 267 semi-synth and Amsoil Marine Gear full-synth http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/gearoiltest.htm

I find you guilty and sentence you to hard time at the EuroMotoFest Hope to see you there

My Shockproof Light is blue because of the Blueberries

Sorry to confuse you. It is always a dis-pleasure to incite your rude rantings. Get a grip you lunatic! I did not mean the photos of the pistons. It was concerning other threads.

A fine example is when I have posted photographs that are far more accurate than Motoguzzinix' first drawing, you have scoffed at them. What kind of hypocritical poster does that make you? On many miserable threads we have been through much of my criticism of your posts and what type of poster you are. Lets not do it again. Please, lets not force Jaap to move this valuable thread to the banter forum. Why don't you get back to the topic and post the picture you drew? Maybe you don't have a drawing program or a scanner.

Sorry, I can't be much help as I am perplexed. It has been a while, but I recall the recommended capacity was very close to the high mark on the stick, screwed in. I am also a little confused by the measurements you took. Where is "the sump filter cover mounting surface"? The top of shown screen or bottom of it? Or somewhere else?

"A" is used to connect to the serial port on a computer, using TuneBoy, and probably TechnoResearch, or Axeone, but not PCIII. Not sure about the "B" lines. I seem to recall the B lines activate when the fuel pump is running, so it is likely for some sort of test.

rack Title: Fly Like An Eagle Album Title: Have A Nice Decade: disc 6 Prime Artist: Steve Miller Producer: Steve Miller Written by: Steve Miller Lyrics: Doo, doo, doo, doo... 1-Time keeps on slipping Into the future Time keeps on slipping, slipping, slipping Into the future 2-I wanna fly like an eagle, to the sea Fly like an eagle Let my spirit carry me I wanna fly (oh, yeah) Fly right into the future I wanna feed the babies Who can't get enough to eat I wanna shoe the children New shoes on their feet I wanna house the people Living in the street Oh, there There's a solution (rpt 2, 1, 1, 2, 2...ad lib to fade) http://www.thepeaches.com/music/

I think there is a difference in performance between standard GL5 synthetic and the same with added moly. Taking a look at It shows that shockproof protects better than the standard redline synthetic. It could be bull, but I believe it. I can't prove that if you added moly to the regular redline synthetic it would perform as well as the redline shockproof, but I suspect it would be similar performance. But I would suspect that adding moly to the shockproof would not improve it

What did you do to install it? Did it simply bolt on where the Ohlins was?