dlaing

Answers(absolute subjective TRUTH): 1. Your dealer is a Vespa dealer. 2. According to Ratchet, don't be a Philistine, but according to others (like me) it is a crap shoot. It might snap in your fingers or it might take more than five foot pounds of torque. I suppose heating the engine and using liquid wrench might help you get it out. Putting it back in, I'd add anti-seize and finger tighten it. Make a regular habit of re-finger tightening it. If it continually loosens, replace anti-seize with mild Loctite and prepare to replace next time you need to pull it, which may be never... Ratchet probably has some good advice for removing and installing. 3. Au contraire mon frere, my bike ran better with the plastic sensor adapter. Ratchet had similar experience. But Greg Field and others have run better with the brass.

Thanks Raz. This may be more trouble than it is worth. I figured it would be as easy as reading TPS voltage.

No problem. I might be quick to assume the same in your shoes.

That is funny! Like 90 something percent of Tx's posts. I think you got auto censored there. Should it say d i c k h ea d, not top of penis? Let me try, Hitler is a top of penis :-).....

Sorry, I think I misunderstood your footnotes. The mV is without the bridge resistor and the ADC voltage is with the resistor, right? So for me the mV is more important than the bridged ADC voltage. From the mV on that chart you can simply measure the indicated temperature. The most OBVIOUS benefit that someone like ratchet could get out of running a volt meter indicating engine temperature is that he could dial his variable resistor according to actual NUMBERS rather than seat of the pants subjectivity. For owners of ECU tuning software, the map cells could be plotted to match reality without wild guess work about the actual temperature. For people that just wand to add conductive goo, they could see a difference in numbers, before and after adding goo, and if the maximum mV/temperature was 468mV/110C before adding goo, and then off the charts at 300mV after adding goo, then they might want to rethink the goo strategy or add a heat sink, or a bigger heat sink. But I am sure Ratchet still sees no value in knowing the indicated temperature.. Looking at the subtle changes in the chart below and knowing the huge difference in how the engine runs, with and without goo, I am guessing the goo changes the temperature reading by over 20C. (go on Ratchet, challenge that figure! with your seat of the pants and highly educated knowledge, but with no volt meter)

Huh? Paddling your ass is not a fair punishment for you!

Resistance DOES correspond to actual temperature the way voltage output does. Why would you want me to explain otherwise? FWIW Resistance does not "output", voltage outputs. You can't measure the resistance while road testing, by you can measure the voltage and then infer the resistance, if you have the right formula or chart. By the way, what is the formula? Raz gave a chart showing voltage with bridged resistor, but I think we would be measuring the voltage with no bridge resistor, so how would the Volts fit into the Ohms/temperature chart? Ratchet obviously does not care about knowing the Ohms, the Volts, nor the Temperature. After all, he has engine sputtering to tell him it is too hot and fuel consumption to tell him it is too cold slow.

Vitriol? I have no vitriol for Tx. No doubt Tx is amusing and will be another sad loss to the Guzzi community. Bullets and booze seem more appropriate for his grave site. Sorry if you and Tx are offended by me thinking and writing that. No offense was intended. Quite the opposite. If Tx was my friend, I would toast him off with such respect, probably burying him with his favorite gun. The bowl of D I C K on Tx's grave is meant as a humorous attempt for you to forgive John in Leeds for his comments....apparently it did not work. I guess Tx has better delivery than I do...

Flowers? Probably be nothing but empty bourbons and bullet shells, and maybe a bowl full of____, sent by courier from Leeds, UK. He might like that, too.

I think we can get atleast 9 pages of arguing about voltage readings. For starters, you don't seem to get the difference between doing actual voltage readings and referring to Raz's chart. Claiming that you already asked what the value is of doing actual voltage readings, you previously only asked what is the value of the voltage figure on the chart, (that will change depending on the bridge resistor) but somehow when you aske that question, you also meant the value of real world readings. I think it is just your knee jerk rhetorical response, and not part of constructive discussion. I'd list a few more examples of the value of voltage readings, AND Raz's chart, but you have clearly built a fortress of thought up to defend against absolute Truth. Your response could be good for ten pages alone of digressive argument about Philistines, Palestinians, conspiracies of Tyranny, UN scientists, and Al Gore. I'll bet you don't appreciate the value of temperature readings when it comes to studying global warming! Voltage output corresponds to ACTUAL temperature. Voltage output corresponds to ACTUAL temperature. Voltage output corresponds to ACTUAL temperature. Voltage output corresponds to ACTUAL temperature. Voltage output corresponds to ACTUAL temperature. Voltage output corresponds to ACTUAL temperature. Voltage output corresponds to ACTUAL temperature. Voltage output corresponds to ACTUAL temperature. Voltage output corresponds to ACTUAL temperature. Voltage output corresponds to ACTUAL temperature. Voltage output corresponds to ACTUAL temperature. Voltage output corresponds to ACTUAL temperature. Voltage output corresponds to ACTUAL temperature. Voltage output corresponds to ACTUAL temperature. etc.

Wow!

Nah, he is no saint. And you certainly got the brunt of Tx's toxic humor, with little sympathy from the peanut gallery. Can't say I wouldn't spit on the grave of a man that treated me that way.

Tx, I know we see about opposite on politics, and in some cases humor, but I am surely sorry for your pain. Glad you have friends like the Havens.

Glad we agree on the value of road testing versus bench testing. But apparently we disagree on the value of reading the sensor output. As for Volt readings, one can see where on the table we are in various road test scenarios. Go for a ride with stock setup, get engine good and hot and do a reading. Add some conductive goo and get the engine good and hot, then do a reading and see where we are. Add cooling finned heat sink, repeat. Are we getting voltage corresponding to over 125C, then I think we may have a problem. What is the voltage reading when we first start getting popping, and misses? How does that correspond to the map in the ECU Do you really see no value in that, and do you believe the seat of your pants and spark plug reading is all that matters? BTW, In what post did you ask about the value of volt readings? Sorry, I did not catch it as I would have happily replied.

The various gaps won't make nearly as much difference as contact versus no contact. I am pretty sure the housing temperature, shed ability, and transmission ability all matters. I think testing on the bike is more ideal than on a bench. A lot could be told from a volt meter that can't be told in 30 pages of instructions.

Why are you limiting to Boyle's law? In any case, yah, even if you obey the ideal gas law, the theoretically significant rise in temperature is instantaneous, so the real rise in temperature would be largely lost as it dissipates over time. One cc of air with a 40% increase in pressure might have a theoretically corresponding 40% increase in temperature (I am sure some will argue the theory, and I could be wrong, but I won't argue, because it is not relevant), but the heat retention of one cc of air in a brass enclosure over a 15 minute warm up would be almost completely unmeasurable.(an thus the irrelevance) What MIGHT be a factor is the increase in thermal conductance of the air, such that the gap at high temperatures could behave conductively as if gapped 40% tighter, which is opposite of what I would like. Still the difference in air conductivity is not gonna make much difference, nothing like the difference of adding a conductive paste. I had to hammer the adapter with an impact driver to get it out. JB Weld bodge master, that ain't me Maybe I should slice the brass fitting in thirds, throw out a third and JB Weld it back together?, Nah, that ain't me either Or maybe I'll search the garage for the damaged pieces, as they might not be as bad as I remember???

Thanks, I did not think of that, so following that, the increased pressure will result in more heat transmitting to the probe. Not completely un-wanted in the absence of thermal goo, as long as it doesn't grenade Maybe we need a bleed path to ensure consistent pressure loss.

Could you tell us more about the tanks? Price? Fittings? (It would be nice to have a petcock on each side, in addition to the required fittings like pressure regulator and fuel level warning switch) Do you have a tank model for both the pump in tank and pump outside of tank on V11 spine frames? Capacity? Pictures of one on a V11?

Act II scene 1 The Bass-baritone, Don-Davido Lainguini gets off his ass, goes to the garage, removes the sensor and brass adapter, takes out the cold solder that he had coiled under the probe tip, like a spring, wraps slightly more teflon tape around threads of sensor and reinstalls, sans solder. He then goes for a 70+ mile ride, and not notices not one single POP! But please note, the weather was cool today, but should be warming to near 80 later this week....stay tuned, for reports of falling MPG but quite likely a happier ride. Still there is plenty of room to lean up the cold zones in the map using Tuneboy.

Homemade Water Manometer First post ='dlaing' post='156907' date='Mar 15 2009 http://www.obairlann.net/reaper/motorcycle/manometer.html I tried making one, but was unsuccessful because the water headed towards the engine. I think the inner diameter of the tubing I used was too small. Second post: gstallons You need to install 0.030" to 0.060" restrictors in (both sides) the hose to slow the fluid movement speed. The way this tool is designed it will only balance the cylinders.

Diagnostics http://www.technoresearch.com/Products/VDS...ke_Features.htm Cheaper than Axeone. Don't know if it works on Griso, Breva, Norge, etc. EDIT BFG: yes there are versions for the new engines

That explains the motive of some of your posts BOFH is funny stuff, but reading it is too painful

The brass is both cooling and conducting more that the plastic. In some situations it will cool more and one will see a richer running bike. In other situation it will heat more and one will see a leaner running bike. I'll bet I am seeing both, but the lean condition is the more annoying. The important questions are: When does the brass adapter make it run too cool and when does it run too rich? Does the brass result in a less accurate transmitter of heat reading? When at high speeds and in the rain, it runs cooler than with the plastic adapter. When in low wind conditions it runs hotter than with the plastic adapter. IMHO the plastic is more accurate, because it is more consistent over varying conditions. Subject to me changing my mind, I think the ideal setup would be a sensor that would not go out of the range of 5% accuracy, nor would the ohm value change to a reading above 125C during any riding that we might encounter, and the sensor would have a longer probe making more direct contact, but with a better insulator between point of probe contact and sensor body, and last but not least a map that better reacted to the reading. (regardless, I think a couple of resistors and switches to mildly enrichen and or enlean the machine on demand are a fine idea) Finding or fabricating such a setup is not likely to happen, so Ratchet's solution starts to make more sense as it addresses both the running too cold by adding goop and the running too hot, by adding cooling fins, but it appears to be both pushing and pulling in various directions, sometimes at the wrong time. How often it is the wrong time is subject to endless speculation. Some to think the set up wrong is too much of the time and Ratchet apparently thinks it is never more wrong than if he had left it alone.

I still don't get it. Care to elaborate? I did find a cross post by Greg that pointed to Guzziology 7-56/57, and I found the claim that the Quota 1100es runs best with the brass adapter and they backed it up with a CO measurement 0.5% higher (richer) My experience and Ratchet's has been the opposite, that the brass adapter makes it run as if it were running too lean. I'd guess that when I am blasting down the freeway, the cooling fins will make it run richer, but when the wind speed drops the brass adapter conducts the heat more than the plastic, so the sensor body alone does not dump the heat fast enough.

The Dao Jones is now up to 7223. Should we revise the magic number? Maybe the Dow Jones will hit 10,000 if we make 100 pages? Headline reads: Variable Resistor Sales Rally Dow Jones Ratchethack Industries credited for major breakthrough in thermo-inertia