dlaing

I like how Enzo and Greg keep their humor going throughout the brawling.

Dittos on what they said. If the blown shifts are almost all down shifts or almost all up shifts, then the solution is the adjuster under the acorn nut. If the blown shifts increase with heat, RedLine shockproof Heavy will save the day. If both gloves fit, you must convict.

I don't think he is a complete idiot. Atleast as a riding partner I don't think he would abandon me up on Mount Saint Hooters, but heck, if he started up with the Jew bashing again, I might just leave him miles from home. None of us are perfect, and I guess some of us are bad matches. Heck, I have gotten far closer to many of the right wingers on this forum than I ever had hoped to. Lately they call me friend and say they respect me Well said I guess I too should put my money where my fingers type and get one of them Gold Memberships....but that Dutch PayPal is a little intimidating. I guess I'll post the question about how to donate in a new thread.

And now you join him with your bias. There are facts and data that support both arguments. Some more credible than others, it is funny how interpretation of credibility always seems to fall roughly along partisan lines. To arrive at this, my likely less than objective friend, I suppose you claim to be relying on facts, data, truth, etc.? Oh, so now it is about trompin'? Good to see the independent of reality thinkers bonding.

They say, never bite the hand that feeds you. But, who feeds who? The Dealer or the Customer? Glad to see both of them are straight forward, honest, and tell it like it is. Heck, I am not one to go pretend I'm a LiberPublican or a Reptiltarian just to get in good with the dealer...but I do kind of bite my tongue a bit more than I do on this forum. I suppose after my exchanges here with Todd Haven and Greg Field, my orders might not get delivered as fast as those who agree with them on everything, but I am sure they are not in business to turn customers away, and realize we all have differences...and Todd and Greg are big enough to think no big deal of it. Maybe if they advertised here, I would show them more respect I guess Greg kind of advertises through Teo Lamer. And both of them have contributed many valuable posts. FWIW I agree with Enzo about driving within your eyes. When riding with my buddies they lose me further faster in areas with drive ways, chances of fallen rocks, pedestrian crossings, etc. I can about keep up with them on turns where you can see 100%, but those turns are rare. On the other hand, while on blind turns I usually go slowly enough to dodge a dead squirrel, but that is useless if the squirrel is alive, or worse, a cow or deer! Then the speed doesn't make much of a difference. If you hit it, you hit it, period.

You can dyno tune without a PCIII, but it is more difficult and usually more expensive to find someone that tunes that way. To do it without a PCIII the dyno-tuner needs to use a software package that directly access the map inside the ECU. Doing it this way has the advantage of getting full access to the ECU, so that timing and other parameters can be modified. Also it means you don't have that remote wired gizmo that Antonio was talking about under your seat I use a program called TuneBoy to modify my ECU directly. It works great. It is only slightly more complicated to use than the PCIII, but it provides many more options. However it is limited in how it communicates with the dyno. If you buy it and have someone like MotoLab dyno tune it directly to the ECU you they would charge you somewhere between $600 and $2000 depending on how well tuned you want it. The PCIII with Tuning Link works out to be alot cheaper. But you get what you pay for. Another way, is to borrow a PCIII, have it dyno tuned with tuning link, and then use tune boy to apply the PCIII map to the ECU. To do that you need the Tuneboy ~$400(probably less since it is not a full version yet), a borrowed PCIII, and about an hour or so on the dyno, $200-$300 What I did was simply use TuneBoy to apply a downloaded PCIII map to the ECU. It worked very well, but I still want to optimize it further. For that I plan to use an onboard wide band oxygen sensor that datalogs the fuel mixture as I ride But that method is only for the truly obscessed. Tuneboy for Guzzi is not yet listed at their site, but the good news is that Wayne will sell it to you for less than the full version because it is not complete, yet... Alternatives to TuneBoy are: FIM ULTIMAP TechnoResearch DirectLink and Axeone.

15V is too high. And it should not fluctuate that much. I would guess bad regulator, but I suppose the alternator or bad connections could produce similar fluctuation. I would look to the shop manual for diagnosing instructions. If you don't have the manual or don't want to download it, I think I posted much of it to Enzo's thread.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odTKBAds1YE

I prefer the look of 1990s V1100 Staintunes. They made a complete system with X cross-over....very nice, but even they get beat up, and damaged by salt, etc., but they will probably last longer than anything. I'll bet it is time to repack my Mistral carbons. They seem to be holding up pretty well to the UV....could be the dirt on them acts like sunscreen

So, you found the PCIII to be nothing more than a novelty in your current configuration? When my bike was stock, I found the PCIII made it smoother and more pleasant to ride. But then again my TPS setting could have been off about that time, possibly making the bike too lean without the PCIII.

Todd Eagan is known as racerx on this forum. He can sell you a PCIII for a little over $300(I think???) and offer great technical support to ensure you have a good map. Another good person to talk to is John Tavolacci aka johnt. Here is a write-up on his bike http://www.guzzitech.com/JTsRosso-PtII-John_T.html He owns or owned Dyno Solutions in Danbury, CT which may be close enough for you, and since he knows Guzzis, he would be the best man to set you up if you wanted to get the PCIII with the Dyno Tuning which would likely result in a somewhat better map than what Todd would provide. But then your price roughly doubles to five or six hundred dollars, which may not be necessary if the bike already works so well.

Some of the So-Cal boys are pretty talented. I am about the slowest of anyone around here. The last time I passed a So-Cal Guzzi Boy it was a side hack. There are all levels of rider around here. The best have 20-10 vision (possibly X-ray around the corners) and can probably ride faster in the rain than I can on a dry road. Here is an amusing but sad(there was a crash) post and good example of what happens if you try to keep up with a young So-Cal Geezer, and get in over your head after thinking that a Jackal with V11S engine, Wilbers Shocks, and expert rider is a Harley Davidson cruiser http://p209.ezboard.com/fsocalguzzifrm2.sh...opicID=69.topic

I think I found them over at the global warming thread, or was it the woman who needs a man scam thread http://www.freshnudes.net/photographers/field/04.jpg http://www.freshnudes.net/photographers/field/03.jpg http://www.freshnudes.net/photographers/field/02.jpg http://www.freshnudes.net/photographers/field/01.jpg

No, generally it means you are running too lean. A "dyno test" simply measures maximum horse power and torque at almost every rpm. The reasons for dyno testing are: 1. to brag about, or to satisfy your curiousity about how much power you are producing. 2. to let you know how much power you are making now so that when you make modifications, you can see the difference. 3. to see your air to fuel ratio (how rich or lean you are running) Usually this is only indicated at WOT (wide open throttle) Beyond simple "dyno testing" is "dyno tuning" Dyno tuning is using the dynometer to simulate riding conditions and measure (and maximize) power, while you modify the bike by changing mufflers, air filters, engine parts, timing, fuel mixture, etc. The PCIII on the V11 is simply a device to modify the fuel mixture. It modifies it across a map. The PCIII map tells the fuel injectors how much more or less fuel to inject at every throttle opening and RPM. You can likely download a map that will match your modifications and make your bike run better. You may think your bike runs perfectly now, but after most PCIII installations people find there bike runs better. Problems like surging, popping, pinging, flat power, and too blue of pipes are reduced or go away. When the PCIII is combined with the Dyno Tuning you should get even better results. To do this, DynoJet uses something known as "Tuning Link" to semi-automatically modify the fuel mixture at the most important points on the "map". It does this using the dynometer and a sophisticated oxygen sensor. This process is much quicker and usually cheaper than having someone modify the mixture, then test on the dyno, than modify again, then test again for several hours to create an optimal map. But the slow method using meters that measure more than the oxygen sensor does, can produce near perfect results. But how perfect do you really need it?

If the Ohlins does not pan out through PU, check with RatchetHack, as I believe he is the process of a Wilbers order. If he does not reply to this thread, you might private message him. My only concern with the Wilbers is the dimensions. They will make it your custom length, just not sure if they can give it the travel I want.

No, just Ouji Veck's solution is your cheapest. You have many options for aftermarket shocks if you look to Europe....Wilbers may offer the most for the money. For American made, I suspect the only options are Penske and Works Performance. I tried talking to Works Performance, but they seemed strangely reluctant to sell me what I wanted, a shock with the length and travel of the Ohlins but with High and Low compression and rebound damping adjusters. I was expecting enthusiasm but got scepticism and doubt. Maybe it was my approach... Mike Stewart got a decent Penske made, but I think it took two returns and even then, the travel was a little short for touring. If I can get a Penske built to Ohlins dimensions, I may go that route, or to save money, a custom Wilbers has similar quality and features for alot less money. Ohlins, Wilbers, HyperPro, and Hagon can all be ordered through US distributors.

Steve, it is best to light up the "cigarette" before throwing gasoline on the camp fire... I thought these guys had kissed and made up, but apparently not. Maybe a stronger drug then rasta of booze needs to be prescribed, like the maybe the Hooters thread!

From the Northern edge of San Diego North County, it is probably about an hour I talked to buymoto.com and they are hoping to get Louis back with his mobile dyno in the Autumn....But I would not wait.

I have estimated my speedo-meter to be about 6% fast and the Odo-meter to be about 3% lengthy. But it has been years since I casually tested. I have a 2000 Guzzi with the 160 tire. I suspect a 180 tire will allow for more accurate readings.

I always thought Guzzi used decent bolts I think you mean that you pulled all the wires out of the "relay socket", the female counterpart to the male relay

All I am saying is that like most people, Lott has a bias. I am simply amused and not suprised, that junkscience.com took an interest in his work. Nothing more and nothing less. If that is true, I stand corrected about Lott's bias. Thank you, Skeeve. Your arguing skills are much politer and better than Ratchet's. EDIT I retract that retraction. A little research about Lott and his credibility is certainly under question. Why is it no surprise that a man as Conservative as Lott would turn against gun control. If you don't believe he is right wing, check out his website http://johnrlott.tripod.com/ I wonder what percentage supports more gun control, of the 64% of Republicans that support Israel's attack of Lebanon?????? Probably somewhere between 0% and 1% But I should not prejudge the man...there is still some faint chance he was objective. Thank you G.G. Now I am corrected about the numbers actually being based on per capita. Sorry, I had no idea what an FBI scale was....I thought it was for dividing up the contraband mushrooms that Ratchet is so fond of.

I did not know about the ZFAS-S2. I think it is narrow band, not wide band, but I am not sure. The Guzzi 10mm holes are allegedly for Exhaust Gas analysis machines.(maybe just a CO meter) It would be cool if Guzzi actually did a multi-gas custom dyno mapping for every bike coming off the assembly line....

I would take a wild guess and say all the fuel injected Guzzis before 1999 or so were brass and all the ones after, were bakelite or plastic...probably starting with V11S and Jackal?????? I think the idea of the plastic one is to transfer less heat to the sensor body and about the same heat to the sensor tip. Theoretically being more accurate, but heating and cooling time may be slower because of plastic's insulating Since going to brass my idle at various temperatures seems to vary more, but it could be for other reasons. (At the same time, I switched to air box lid, new fuel filter, adjusted valves and TPS....so any of those could have changed the idle... )

spouting numbers of crimes as evidence of the effectiveness of guns as deterents is useless without comparative statistics of populations, percentage gun ownership, etc. Even with those statistics we don't know whether the presence of the gun is the deterent or other factors, like jobs, pay, cost of living, presence of bible pushers, presence of opium, presence of alcohol, morals, etc. I am sure you will enjoy learning even more about Lott from Milloy http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=...amp;btnG=Search

Unless I missed it, GG's post appears to omit "per capita" statistics. Really?!!? No Agenda! How unbiased!!!! This Lott guy is even sited on junkscience.com!!!! What credibility!!!!