dlaing

A while back I took the trouble of removing the shock to see how far the swing arm would travel. In both the topping out and bottoming out direction, I could tell that the Ohlins shock spec fell within the range. I could also tell it was very close to reaching a failure point, especially in the direction of bottoming. This made me regret having trimmed my shock bumper....but there were still a few mm of clearance left. I did not measure the shaft angle, but as I understand it the V1100 sport has a greater angle and it survived the WP shock...but again, it is not the same bike, and maybe they refabricated the swingarm for our bike. I am not worried about the risk of putting a shock with the Ohlins numbers on my bike. I understand and respect your decision to be eliminate that risk.

Perhaps I did not stress Note1 enough: "Note1-- The sag are approximate recommendations with a bias of importance on low ride height...Obviously the Sachs and Wilbers should have different sag positions within the illustrated fields." I believe ride height is very important. I also believe "proper" sag as a percentage is important. I have already explained how I believe the Ohlins should have nearly 10 more mm of sag than the Sachs. This is primarily due to ride height, but also due to getting the bike spending more tiime riding at a lower shaft angle. Looking at the two extremely different shocks, the Wilbers and the Sachs we see that if you use the same sag as a percentage of travel, you will get very different ride heights and shaft angles. But if you set the sag relative to ride height, as illustrated in the chart, you will get a more similar ride height and shaft angle. But this too has a problem, that I believe is the reason for your objection; set to the same ride height, with the same spring weight, the Sachs would be more prone to topping out and the Wilbers would be more prone to bottoming out. FWIW I prefer the Sachs measurements to the Wilbers, and I believe you are much better off aiming roughly for the Sachs numbers with your Wilbers, as you suggested you are doing.

I am not second guessing them. Guzzi engineers spec Ohlins, WP, and Sachs for our bike. Even Chris's Wilbers fall within range. The numbers 284/66 will travel 2mm less, both up and down, then the Ohlins.

I almost agree with you. The extra 10mm should not be used to reduce bottoming by riding higher. I believe that doing so would stress the driveshaft joint and create an unstable bike by being too high in the rear. I believe the 70mm stroke is fine if you add an additional 10mm to the sag. It will help prevent the topping out (is that the correct term for the opposite of bottoming out?) and from what I can tell, will stress the driveshaft joints no more than bottoming out. Side Note When defining shock length and travel, the Ohlins gets very close to the limit of axle movement in both directions. The Ohlins, WP, and Sachs all bottom out at about the limit of axle travel....bumpers change the point slightly. The Ohins and Wilbers both top out at about the limit of axle travel. Dark Grey represents Shock Length in mm Blue represents Travel in mm Grey haze approximately represents bike only sag Orange haze approximately represents rider on bike sag Note1-- The sag are approximate recommendations with a bias of importance on low ride height...Obviously the Sachs and Wilbers should have different sag positions within the illustrated fields. Note2-- The Wilbers is based on Chris Beauchemin's shock, not Ratchet's. If I could order any specification, I might go 284/66 with about a 550# spring

...all the more reason I said,"While I respect people just for their value as human beiing, and I certainly respect everyone here to the degree that they have some positive qualities, I don't respect thought patterns that deviate from my thought patterns." It is the thought patterns I don't respect, not necessarily the people that have the thought patterns. No, because it was rude,(EDIT strike "because it was rude" and replace with "because it was disrespectful" ) as you were, too. It would kind of be like me calling all the supporters of seal clubbing a bunch of neo-nazi hitlers. In some ways it has everything to do with respect.

Alright! Enzo is back on the road. Felix was spot on with the loose wire theory http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...ic=8520&hl=

If Wilbers could build the shock to Ohlins dimensions (286mm length 70mm stroke) or even Sachs 276/60 or WP 280/64 and put a softer spring on it than HyperPro does, I would place my order tomorrow! Chris Beauchemin wrote a nice write-up on the Wilbers Shock where he determined the travel was 58mm http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...ic=5898&hl=

Any chance you know the travel and overall length measurements? (not the dicks' measurements, the shock's...)

Exactly. Only go so far. EDIT Note my hypercoil spring is about an inch shorter than the OEM, so lighter preload is possible FWIW I mean more bike only sag. Perhaps Without rider: Rear: Road and Track 20 mm With rider: Rear: Road and Track 40 mm or probably too extremely Without rider: Rear: Road and Track 30 mm With rider: Rear: Road and Track 45 mm compared to what I currently have: Without rider: Rear: Road and Track 10 mm With rider: Rear: Road and Track 35 mm

Any chance the shock spring will be lighter sprung than the HyperPro rising rate spring?

I think Louie gets up to Sears Point once in a while.

The three more obvious possibilities: 1) you needed the original ground wire grounded to the regulator body and mounting bolt. 2) The white wire needs to go to the blue wire. I believe the warning light theoretically activates when there is a significant difference in voltage between the blue line (regulator) and black/red line (battery) When you turn on your key the voltage is higher at the battery than the regulator so, the light activates. Oddly I did not see my light light when my fuse blew. Perhaps the white wire could connect directly to the red/black without a light in between??? Or it may damage the regulator... If the blue line and bulb are gone, try it with an indicator light inbetween the white wire and the red/black and see if the pump then works. I guess I could try disconnecting my white wire to see if it still works. 3) Or the worst possibilty....something is wrong with the system that caused the initial failure and you need to find and repair it. ...I spent three months blaming my ECU, but never found the definitive reason for the failure of the regulator AND battery....but a new battery seemed to fix my problem. I suspect I may have toasted my fuse by leaving one of the battery wires loose.

Why does the grammar policeman ignore this and pick on me?

Was that your definition of respect? You revoked your respect for me with regards to global warming??? Or do you respect me for appearing irrational???? Is it because our thought patterns were different???? What kind of Hitler are you??? Come on French Bob, get off your fence posing like a chicken. Which am I like? All of the people Nog mentioned? Pat Robertson? Fox News? You are another who I have just lost respect for. Sorry, I don't understand. Care to elaborate?

Perfect example. Why should I respect someone who equates me with those people. Do you respect those people? Or are your ideas dissimilar? Your politics are somewhat similar to that of Fox News, and my respect for you is similar to my respect for Fox News. Your respect for me is no greater than my respect for you. You are deceiving yourself if you think otherwise. The reason for the disrespect is that our relative truths are different. You think you are right and I am wrong....that is a lack of respect, and understandable from your point of view. We both do it, but neither of us is a brutal dictator. There is a difference between respecting and tolerating. The trouble with people like George Bush, Joe Stalin, etc., is not their lack of respect for their victims, but their lack of toleration. An example of the lip service respect is George Bush saying, "America is a friend to the people of Iraq. Our demands are directed only at the regime that enslaves them and threatens us. When these demands are met, the first and greatest benefit will come to Iraqi men, women and children." Israel attacking Lebanon has little to do with respect, it is all about their intolerance of those who stand up to them. Likewise those who stand up to them do so because of a lack of toleration. FWIW, I tolerate you, Nogbad.

I'd much rather have the boat anchor in the stern than the bow. Imagine having a 30# front wheel and rounding a turn and hitting washboard and or pot holes. Atleast if the rear loses it, it is much easier to maintain control. And if the front can handle it better when the rear loses it, you are in better shape. Because of the shaft and weight in the rear, I would be inclined theoretically to go with more sag and heavier springs than is recommended for chain driven bikes. This would reduce compliance and travel, but this in not necessarily a bad thing. Our bikes have quite a bit more travel in the rear than Tontis with their twin shocks. Keeping the rear better centered around the axle neutral point may lead to more predictable handling...at the expense of comfort

You should probably ground the grounding wire somewhere. I think it will be safe to try the regulator with no light. It should be designed such that it does not fail if the bulb burns out, right???

He is funny to the max

too much work. I really want to find someone who will teflon coat my wheels and alternator cover....but the teflon adds weight too When I bought an airtech streamlining BMW fariring for my bike, there glass job was so light that I must have increased its weight by 50% after two coats of spray paint.

I disagree. While I respect people just for their value as human beiing, and I certainly respect everyone here to the degree that they have some positive qualities, I don't respect thought patterns that deviate from my thought patterns. Respectability is relative to ones perspective. Often the term is used as political lip service, usually before or after fucching them over. While I have respect for some aspect of everyone on this forum, I don't respect cruelty, irrationallity, selfishness, heartlessness, close-mindedness and many other negative characteristics. While I should have the respecting love and tolerance of the parent of a defective child, I don't. Respect is initially granted, it can be earned, and it can be revoked or foreited.

I think it is a good idea to check that and the wires coming out of the regulator. I ended up with resistance between the hot line from the regulator and the fuse. I don't know if that was cause or effect.

When I tried to use the original line from regulator to battery the voltage was too low (by like 0.2V) until i switched to the positive going directly from regulator to battery (but still passing through inline fuse) Running the ground line directly is a good idea, I just have too many wires to hook up to the battery, and my OEM ground seems fine. What kind of voltage output do you get with your Electrex unit? Since switching from the OEM regulator to the Electrex, my voltage is much better below 2000 RPM but I don't quite get the same peak voltage charge. With the OEM I would peak at something 14.5 Volts (I forget exactly), while the Electrex peaks at somewhere between 13.5 and 13.9V.

No, evil is within everybody, everywhere. What causes conflicts is almost always the fault of both sides. Heck, for the past few months, I can't help break into a squirmish almost everyday on this forum, and we are all Guzzi brothers and sisters (and other bike riders and wannabes too.) A few of us have lost mutual respect for each other. It is kind of pathetic...But sure beats having your head blown up.

Pete should make it out of 10mm tungsten steel as this would make an excellent ballast. But seriously, if you are going to add weight to the Guzzi, the sump is the place to add it. If we were talking unsprung or rotating mass, we might be in for 4 pages of argument on the material of choice.