dlaing

Back in 1984 I tightened up my chain and prepped my Honda 500 four up for a little tour from san diego california to eugene oregon... I made it as far as Roseburg when the chain derailed and cracked the crankcase.....never again! I swore!!!! four months later I bought a V65

The critical thing is not to exceed 15.0V At the same time a trickle charger will only partially charge the battery. A 6 to 7 amp charger that won't exceed 15V is ideal http://www.odysseybatteries.com/charging.html or http://batterystore.com/Odyssey/OdysseyCharger.htm Because I am paranoid and may have damaged my ECU, I recommend removing the ECU fuse before charging. YMMV Here is a list of recommended chargers TecMate AccuMate Pro 12V-7A-S Motion Pro Inc. 650-594-9600 (aka optimate) http://www.batterymart.com/p-ACC-12V7A-S.html $86.95++ Xenotronix SX 90-1 12V, 6A Xenotronix 800-624-9366 (aka Odyssey Optimiser) http://www.gotbatteries.com/items.asp?para.../CH301/34S201S2 $99.95++ Motocell™ 693601 12V, 3A Custom Chrome 800-729-3332 Battery Defender ACC-1206WB 12V, 3A BatteryMart.com 800-405-2121 Also Hawker??? is developing an Odyssey Ultimizer to be released second quarter 2006...see http://www.odysseyfactory.com/ Warning, Hawker previously, but no longer recommend Deltran's line of chargers and vice versa http://www.batterytender.com/notice_odysse...f093b029480870a The Ultimizer is or will be available as a 6,12,25,40,or 50 Amp charger and all will safely charge the Odyssey PC545 or the OEM Spark battery To read more about the charger, read the PDF that was released 06.06.06 http://www.enersysreservepower.com/documen...LT-001_0606.pdf

easy on the foam, puhleeze

counting angels is child's play. Just about any shift to the left would be a good thing, and you need a shift to the left way more than I.

I kind of thought the bike was mis-balanced in the other direction. Moving the exhaust to the Griso side would have made more sense, I think I was considering ways of moving the battery to the left, but no good ideas, yet.

Here we discuss the battery draining through the ECU. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=7857&hl= Apparently some bikes drain, but I don't think it is a normal healthy situation, rather it appears that the ECUs may be succeptible to damage. The damage could be caused by low batteries, charging without pulling the number 1 fuse to the ECU, bad regulators, bad relays, etc. The thread I cited gives ideas on how to test the ECU for draining the battery. It would be good to know if more bikes are succesptible to this problem, so we can all rush out and buy Cliff's MY15

http://www.mts.net/~sbarham/italian.htm Evan and Jim Wilcox make some nice aluminum tanks, but they don't list our machine for tanks, just phallic mufflers.

I pounded the flat blade screwdriver into the hole of the (copper???)housing till it bottomed out and then some, then I whacked it with the impact driver. I was lucky the impact screwdriver wedged in pretty good and the housing was fairly loose but the locktite made it a small fight for several rotations. I am a little paranoid that they switched from brass to plastic to insulate the sensor from overheating, so I intend on using a fair amount of teflon tape to insulate it a little. Since I have tuneboy, I was planning on tweaking the engine temperature map, anyway. PS If I cannot cancel the order for the plastic sensor housing, I may have one for sale, if it ever gets here.

figures Ben would have beat me by seconds, with the ass and hooter shot

The link did not work for me, but I think this is the one you were pointing too.

The safer solution is to position the tip-over valve correctly...however that is??? I think people said vertically, but I suppose it is possible the valve was installed backwards, in which case vertically and upside-down would be correct. FWIW at least on V11 was lost in flames, so it is true, doodoo happens.

Probably only on the bikes that get good gas mileage. Mine was loose, so I suspect it could have contributed to bad gas mileage, especially in cooler weather. Some angel on the forum hooked me up with a brass one. Now to get the old one out...

...and coincidentally the "HEAT" won too! (believe it or not it was due to anthropogenic global trotters warming the hearts of sports fans everywhere )

Brilliant! I think you have just about maximized the potential power with that muffler design!

I have been waiting weeks for my plastic replacement. Do you have a brass one still in stock? I'll buy it! if you can approach the $29.95 price here http://www.mgcycle.com/electrical.html I am tired of not riding And let it be a warning to everyone, that plastic will break from just hand tightening it too tight.

Some have discussed using a resistor to trick the ECU into believing the temperature sensor is reading higher. Switching to the brass sensor mount used on the V1100sporti might give a warmer reading But maybe your engine just has to get warmer

This site seems to confirm the blubber blabber http://www.lubegard.com/about.html I think the increase of alcohol in gasoline increases the water absorbtion capabilities, so it goes stale.

Pete, Greg, or someone else would know better than I, but I think 20 foot pounds is too much. I set mine just till snug. Once it is snug there should be no freeplay....but I suppose bad threads could mislead. Ideally, I lift the wheel in the air and move the steering back and forth to make sure it is not too tight. Snugging it till steering resistance is felt and then backing it off a little, I believe gives the best result.

Not bad, It was looking like Italy 2, USA 1, but USA held on for the draw.

yes

Is this a spin-off of the global warming thread? The Hurricane Glo-Warmies vs. the I love Halliburton Oilers????

You could connect the two wires at the rear brake switch to see if the brake light comes on. If it does, you have a bad switch, or bad contacts to the switch. Likewise you could test the front switch the same way. The front switches are a bit less reliable.

LEDs have much higher resistance then a regular bulb, so your test light may not register. You probably need a volt meter. Also keep in mind that correct polarity is mandatory for LEDs. Getting the plug backwards on the switches is not a problem, but getting it backwards at the LED lamp would cause it to not work. Assuming headlights and horn work I would not suspect a fuse or relay. For the brake light not to work from either front or rear switch, look for the problem at the connector to the lamp. If the tail light works, the ground is correct. Could the grey wire(tail light) and the red/blue wire(stop light) be reversed? But much more likely, there is just a bad connection for the red/blue wire. Or there is the unlikely possibility that both your switches went bad (double doh!)

I bought HD dealers turn signals one time, and brake lamp another. Both times I got experienced, friendly, helpful service, and no complaints that it was for a Guzzi. ...And the parts were in stock. ...And no pushy salespeople when ooogling the Buells ...And hot friendly cashiers

Check the bulb??? Try probing the bulb contacts(but insulate the positive probe so you don't short them out against the wall of the bulb socket) The bulb on my bike never seemed to seat reliably...possibly oxidized contacts. Eventually I got an identical lamp from a Buell for something like $25US...problem solved!