dlaing

Very Nice! Ready to blow the doors off of Urals! What are the details? It looks like you got parts from various models.

Ben, you are showing your youth on a Geezer forum Here is the ugliest picture I could find of her, and she still looks fine. taken sometime 2006 Keith Urban, ridem cowboy!

If I ever get a set of Alpina true-spoke tubeless wheels, I will look to attaching the brake rotors with titanium. Would I be able to tell the difference? Heck I don't know, but the more you subtract, the better.

Glad you got it, but a shame they stopped production of the X10. John T raved about the X9, but the dyno does not show a big gain when he went to it. An X10 would probably be the best cam for someone with a 100HP goal, while still street rideable. Still the X9 must be better for touring, etc.

I think Lamedog has proper dimensions, but if that is the case, why did his fail??? Probably just a lousy bearing gone bad...maybe the lube leaked out

The Ratchet works for the NSA, don't'cha'know!?!

If one gets the straight rate springs, the change in sag should equal the change in spacer, relatively exactly. Therefore, there is a relatively exact way to hit them both relatively perfectly...but like ratchet indicated, absolute perfection won't be reached the first time....not that there is any such thing as perfect sag... If one gets the Wilbers springs, the change in sag will be less than the change in spacer, due to the rising rate. The progressive springs make sizing a spacer more difficult. But if someone like Ratchet could tell you what length to cut the spacer, considering you are both about the same weight, you should be fine. And you might find Wilbers springs here http://www.everyaccessory.co.uk/

It is a wierd mix of notalgia, bad rock, and sex tease. I think what seperates the Norge from other sport tourers, are the soulful, raw, sporty qualities, and this misses most of that.

Ouch! now that is getting pricey...but it might be worth it for unsprung weight. How does titanium compare to others??????? All I know is that it is lighter than SS or other steel.

Double Devil Dutch Day

http://www.mgcycle.com/megacycledatasheet.htm They have an odd numbering system. It seems that the order of racy-ness or peaky-ness is something like: 620x? lift Duration Lobe Center INTAKE Open/Close EXHAUST x3 .325 252 108 18/54 54/18 x9 .326 258 107 22/56 56/22 x10 .355 264 105 27/57 27/57 x11 .360 282 36/66 68/34 x8 .372IN .360EX 294IN 285EX 104IN 108.5EX 43/71 71/34 x7 .382 296 108 40/76 76/40 Not sure if it can be compared, but the V11Sport engine has specs of Intake 22BTDC 54ABDC Exhaust 52BTDC 24BTDC Which seems pretty close to the X9, but probably the V11S has less lift

Not true, the true Anti-Christ is Shiloh Nouvel Jolie-Pitt who was secretly born at the same time, despite the charade of an earlier birth Or June 6th the revealing of the adult anti-christ, Arnold Schwartzenegger??? or his Democratic foes?

Chuck E. Cheese http://www.animatedboobs.com/

The lighter spring should be on the "choke" and the heavier spring on the seat latch. The problem with the heavier spring on the choke is that the choke does not stay open. Should take less than ten minutes to swap. PS Chris, do you have photos of that hugger?

There is even one for HelicopterJim http://www.filecabi.net/video/helicopteraccident.html WARNING Graphic Blood

shock eye failure could be deadly. Glad Wambiker discovered this before it could have caused an accident. It really should be a factory recall item....but that is not likely to happen. I think we need a sort of "know the rules" faq Some candidates for the FAQ of things the factory may have gotten wrong and maintenance not in manual schedule: shock eye needs lubing or it may break. rear break caliber needs regular cleaning and very light lubing of the piston....but do NOT lube your pads and disk Make sure there is freeplay at the rear brake lever, and clean and lube the master cylinder and make sure the spring returns it. grease the shaft and hub splines. regularly grease bearings on the right side of the rear gear box Check the rear bearing spacer to make sure there is no clearance between the bearings. Orange Okie's additions: battery and relays Ground your tachometer Run you own wires to the headlights make sure the compression fitting does not pop out on the speedo cable etc. make sure your seat latch spring and engine warm up lever spring were not reversed at factory. Any more to add???? Any to subtract???? I know some disagree about brake lever clearance and brake caliber piston lubrication, so their objections should be noted. The objection to lubing near the brakes should be mentioned because lube getting on brake pads or disk could pose a serious problem. Ratchet could write a piece on the importance of zero clearance.

I think run flat tires could be a good idea. I once pulled away from a redlight and the front tire blew out by the time I got up to about 30MPH. It was a small miracle that I did not crash. It was nearly impossible to control the bike. I have also had the rear go, but that was a comparative cakewalk. I would be very interested, especially for the front tire. I googled and could find little about the tires. Perhaps I should talk to next available two wheeled LEO that I see, and find out who takes care of their tires.

Could we please keep it a little more motorcycle related: http://www.filecabi.net/video/bikerexcited.html

PS a note to all you San Diegan Tuning Link Lovers ; BuyMoto is having the dyno truck there this weekend, June 10 and 11

One thing that keeps the rear sets from going back AND down is the exhaust pipe. But with the Quat-D that is NOT a problem. I would love for the pegs to go back three and down about two inches, and the Quat-d would open up that possibility. It would also be nice to convert the gear shifter to a linkless one up - five down (helps prevent theft : ) But for a lot less money the Buell pegs give an inch, and I presume the rider's heel does not hit the exhaust

So, why are Ducati and Aprilia wrong answers But nice to see a little appreciation, even if guzzi had to homogenize it before it got a good review.

Being fickle may be the best way to learn Why more rubber? I thought the speed rating had more to do with the rigidity of the carcass, and how it holds its shape at speed. But then what engineering would make the difference between weight bearing and speed rating?

humbug.

http://www.redlineoil.com/dealers.asp Plenty of Redline dealers in Oregon, just type in your zip code

He is pretty cute, but I am married, and boringly faithful.