dlaing

Interesting. So, we have Docc draining at 0.7, me draining away at 0.07A, Des and Luhbo showing voltage that may indicate about the same drainage, MotoGuzzinix draining at 0.007A, and Nogbad draining at 0.0007A Carl, I disconnected the line to the starter, with no change. But I did not try disconnecting the solenoid control wire, nor the taillight, the brake light, nor the rear turn signals, but I think I have disconnected everything else.

Posi-Tite connectors can replace the bullet connectors http://www.posi-lock.com/positite.html Posi-Lock are featured on http://www.webbikeworld.com Posi-tite seal out water. Posi-Lock are cheaper, and are probably water proof enough with silicone grease. availailable here: Wal-Mart - All New Products in Automotive Lighting Section O'Reilly Auto - All New Products Carquest - All New Products Napa - All New Products Checker Auto - Posi-Lock & Posi-Seal Kragen Auto - Posi-Lock & Posi-Seal Schucks Auto - Posi-Lock & Posi-Seal Orschlen Farm & Home - Posi-Lock, Posi-Twist Jeg's High Performance - Posi-Lock, Posi-Twist Summit Racing - Posi-Lock, Posi-Twist TruckPro - Posi-Lock, Posi-Twist, Posi-Tap If the connectors are not the problem, look to the clutch switch.

This site has some nice connectors http://www.powerletproducts.com/products.php?mid=1 PS They have a great FAQ on adding accessories to motorcycles and other motorcycle related stuff. For example: Q. Why can't my motorcycle stand up on its own? A. It's two tired.

Pepperoni is riding a Red and Green two wheeled Christmas card and you guys are dissing DaBen for a clash of shades of red The Rosso mettalic Red is Gorgeous! Don't let them beat you down! They are just jealous because you will be the only Rosso Mandello looking bike without peeling black engine paint ...and it can't be any worse than the Gold Ohlins on my Silver bike with red frame...I might have to gold anodize the pork chops and valve covers to match the Ohlins....or maybe just scura paint and carbon fiber or maybe cover the Ohlins in black wetsuit neoprene

I am just really curious if someone is getting no drainage, or less drainage? It is perplexing that some read 0.07xA and some read 0.007xA Maybe we should all rush out and buy MY15Ms

Thanks Nog! The number one fuse is the forward most fuse, a 5A fuse. ie, the only fuse in this photo, draining away at my battery like a vampire

What do your amps read across the number one fuse sockets?

I think they are all pretty competitive. I would avoid anything sintered and and any of that no name stuff on eBay(no name may be fine, but brakes are critical to your life) Still if I have to draw a bias, Brembo is probably the best, although not necessarilly the most powerful. But because I am cheap, I would save a few bucks and go with the SBS ceramic Low-Friction, SBS-519LF. I like that SBS offers a choice of high and low friction. The low friction is supposed to be the choice for the rear, and it with our rears tendency for brake grown, lower friction makes sense. Take your bike for a high speed ten minute ride without using the rear brake, and see how hot the rear rotor gets. If it is too hot to touch, or your flesh melted and blistered, you must service that caliber, or stop resting your toe on the lever Last time I checked after cleaning, the rotors did get a little warm. It makes me wonder if I would get more MPG if I had no rear brake, or spring retracting pads. What is the purpose of floating disks? would a floating rear disk or a floating caliber help????

Your friendly forum sponsor or here is my unverified research on brake pad part numbers Please verify before ordering ...and if anyone knows other than what I posted, please post corrections. FERODO FDB207P Ferodo Platinum compound for F05 calipers & spine frame rears $24.50 FDB207S Ferodo Sintered compound for spine frame rears, stainless only $33.50 SBS Front - SBS 566 Rear - SBS 519 followed by the suffix HF, HS, LF, or LS. H for front high friction L for rear low friction F for easier on rotors S for sintered so for the rear I would go with SBS-519LF I recently installed 20 year old SBS V65 brake pads, and they seem fine...I should have saved the number... EBC EBC front FA244* kevlar FA244HH* sintered EBC rear FA47 kevlar FA47HH sintered EBC front rotors MD2003LS MD2003RS Here are some Ducati REAR that should cross reference 350 / 400SS 1990 - 1998 Monster 400 2000 - 2005 600SS 1994 - 1999 Monster 600 1994 - 2001 Monster 620 2002 - 2005 Monster 620 Dark 2002 - 2005 Monster 620S 2002 - 2005 620S 2003 - 2005 Multistrada 620 2005 - 2006 Multistrada 620 Dark 2005 - 2006 748SP 1995 - 1997 748 Biposto 1995 - 2001 750SS 1991 - 1998 Monster 750 1996 - 1999 Monster 800 2003 - 2005 Monster 800S 2003 - 2005 Monster 800 Dark 2003 - 2005 Monster S2R 800 2005 - 2006 Monster S2R 800 Dark 2005 - 2006 900SS 1990 - 1997 900SL 1993 - 1999 Monster 900 1993 - 1999 916 1994 - 1998 996 Biposto 1999 Monster 1000 2003 - 2005 Monster 1000S 2003 - 2005 Monster 1000 Cromo 2003 - 2005 Monster 1000 Dark 2003 - 2005 Monster S2R 1000 2005 - 2006

I ride on my arches and dangle my foot off to the right of the brake lever. I think it is a bad habit, but I have yet to break it. I am annoyed how my heel hits the brake master cylinder guard. Perhaps if I adjusted the brake lower, I would be less paranoid and would keep my toes in more. I have dragged my toes a couple times and don't like the surprise, but it beats the surprise of grinding a muffler or peg. I have tried riding on the balls of my feet but I feel a tendency to slide off the pegs, and feel it is awkward reaching for the brake and the shifter when on the balls of the feet.

Here is all the data I have on air filters. FWIW K&N are famous for letting in too much dirt, sand, etc. BMC are alleged to filter out more contaminants. But I'd bet the OEM paper filter filters out the most garbage. Air Filters Airbox Replacements: 1. K&N - Old #MG-1093, New # 33-2682 (Automotive application that fits perfectly) 2. Amsoil Products 2 stage foam # S1938 3. BMC 164/01 The current FBF number for the BMC filter is F33705 $49.95US The airbox kit with filter is F45700 $79.95 The airbox kit, without filter(for those who already have a BMC or want paper or K&N) F45701 $32.95 The dimensions for the BMC filter are 134 x 224mm Apparently the original filter crosses w/ Fiat part number "Fiat 4434868" so, you may be able to find other matches. Seperate Filters for those eliminating the airbox: For those keeping and modifying the intake tubes from between the airbox and the throttle bodies a 2-1/4 inch filter works well: K&N RU-0600 round, non-tapered, straight flange flange: 2-1/4" (57mm) width: 3-1/2" (89mm) length: 4" (102mm)

I clean the piston every rear tire (4000 to 5000 miles) and replace the pads every two tires. I could probably go three tires, but the pad insulates against heat boiling the fluid, so it is good to keep it thick. My OEM pads wore out very quickly, before learning to clean the caliber piston. I imagine if I cleaned the piston every 2000miles, I could get more life out of the pads, but the pads are cheap compared to what I would charge myself for labor Meanwhile the front OEM brake pads have plenty of life left after well more than 30,000 miles.

Bump! On my way, see y'all there!

It is really just proof that you are a relativist. You use the relativists phrase, "I've got NO NEED WHATSOEVER to start messin' with perfection...... wub.gif" Sorry Charlie, but as excellent as your bike may run, it is absolutely not running perfectly, but it is running excellently enough to leave you with the relative TRUTH that it is running perfectly, but that is the Truth of a relativist. Power Commander sales are fueled by the relativists buying into the lie of illusionary perfection. Excellence, maybe, perfection, no. Only a relativist would confuse the terms. Sorry for highjacking the thread....

If it did not feel like it was binding with the pinchbolts and axle nut loose, it probably is not an alignment issue. I suppose you could pull your springs, dump your fork oil and then put the forks on the bike without springs and oil, keeping the bike on a stand, see how it moves with just a free floating axle, and see how it moves with a tightened up axle and wheel. But that is alot of work

Did you try cleaning the fork tubes and dust covers with some silicone spray? Note: 1. Don't get any silicone on brake disks. spray on to rag and then clean the fork tubes. 2. Some think the silicone will attract dirt. It is a trade off. Squished bugs will slide away, but more grime will accumulate at dust cover. Regular cleaning with WD40 or better silicone spray, should help reduce pitting on the forks and keep the seals working properly, and reduce stiction. I think you mentioned the stiction seemed to worsen after service. Can anyone think of something else that could cause the increase in stiction? Wrong fluid level??? Replaced something incorrectly???? threaded rod connection??? springs upside down??? Spacers??? adjustment rods????? Maybe the seals just need time to re-wet??? If you don't like the idea of silicone, clean tubes with fork oil, work the forks, clean again, work forks, clean off excess.

Stoichimetric perfection on a Guzzi is not desireable on a Guzzi as the engine would run too hot. Perfection in ECU tuning is impossible, and excellence in ECU tuning is really rather subjective. Excellence could be defined as maximized power for every map point. Or it could be defined as being a little leaner than that for cleaner emissions and MPG. Or it could be defined as being a little richer than that for cool smooth running. Or it could be defined as being a bit richer in some places, to keep it cool, while being a bit leaner in other places for efficiency, while being optimized for power in other places, all while balancing ignition timing with fuel mixture. Or it could be defined as a flat lambda reading from a Tuning Link dyno run. Or it could be defined as a state of tune tha leaves the rider perfectly satisfied

Not exactly. The fuel pressure is supposed to be the constant and specific pressure that the injectors need at any given point in the map. The pressure should be sufficient enough to meet the maximum needs of the injectors. Oddly, the shop manual says, "Note that to keep the pressure jump to the injectors constant, the difference between the fuel pressure and the intake manifold pressure must be constant" But then they show a photo of it clearly not connected to the intake manifold The pressure adjuster is preset to 3 bars, plus or minus 0.2bar. PS Ratchet's definition of "perfection" is clearly that of a relativist See "ECU" thread for more details on the pursuit of perfection, and see "global warming" thread for details on relativism Or maybe he meant to say, "-- and I've got NO NEED WHATSOEVER to start messin' with the FI system to achieve perfection...... wub.gif"

It sure is easier to measure unladen sag stiction. I agree that laden stiction would be more valuable, but I am too lazy to help out with a laden sag stiction measurement. I don't recall the stiction difference that we got, but I am sure we would have noticed if it was extreme.

I think that only holds true if the torque is foot pounds and the HP is HP and not PS nor KW. FWIW, isn't the G&B basically a slightly tuned California engine? Compare it to a couple of Jackal dyno graphs Details here: http://www.guzzitech.com/Bubs-Todd_E.html

I measured stiction with no tank and no rider on my Ohlins Fork equipped bike and after a little bit of practice got pretty consistent 5mm difference, or more specifically 105 - 100 = 5mm (FWIW...assuming 120mm travel, this indicates 22.5mm static sag albeit with no tank) I did readings ranging from 97 to 107, but after about a dozen readings wrote them off as errors, as well more than half the down push readings were between 99and 101mm and all but one of the up readings were between 104 and 106mm. Note that I was trying to get as big a difference as possible by not yanking up nor pushing down too hard. Also note the Ohlins is supposed to be coated with gold nitride or nitrite which is supposed to be slicker. And also note, I have not ridden in over a month

Do you mean F or C? IMHO the 6000 mile service interval for oil is a bit long. I suspect the last couple thousand miles of that interval, the oil is likely to run very thin at high temperatures, and I am surprised some people use 5,10,or15W40, although in cool climates it probably is fine. The people getting milk shake on the inside of the valve covers may actually want to put a cover over their oil cooler in cooler months....and as Dan and Spectro suggest, getting the temperature over the water boiling point is a good idea....still it scares me how thin the oil is at that temperature. But it is a Guzzi and it will be fine

The two sides should balance out, and it should not suck air until just before empty. If I understand your design correctly, I am concerned that when you change air filters, etc., it will have a difficult time purging the air in the system as it MAY recirculate the air.

BBQ to help fund Max Lambky and Don Angel in their endeavour to become the world's fastest antique motorcycle. Pushing past 330MPH! Vincent Streamliner owner and builder Max Lambky "is in dire need of funds to complete the repairs and changes he is making this year." (Quoted from flyer) "Any donation greatly appreciated... the more the merrier!" "If you can't make it to our BBQ and you would like to make a contribution, please send check or money order payable to Max Lambky to Sonny Angel Motorcycles 34 E 18th Street, National City, CA 91950" Here are links to info about the Vincent Streamliner http://myvincent.co.uk/lambky/index.php?page=1 http://www.thevincent.com/Record_Attempt.html http://www.vincentstreamliner.com/