dlaing

I don't think so. I think the torque numbers on the graph are just off by about 10 foot pounds. a lot of posted dynos have mistakes like that....not sure why

Measuring the volts is just safer and easier, though less meaningful It indicates that there is some current, which is useful. But knowing the volts may be less useful than knowing the Ohms, in this situation, but it is convenient. On the ECU harnass, I can probe for volts, but for amps, I need to break the wire, or get some expensive gadget to read the amps. But good point, Paul Knowing how much current we need an ammeter. And I guess it is easy enough to put an ammeter across the fuse sockets. Just don't blow up the ammeter. I guess most are 10Amp ammeters, so they are good for the 5 and 10A fuses.

Is that with Cliff's MY15??? I thought he did not even use the 17pin????? Atleast I got infinite resistance when I probed the 17pin on Carl's MY15. Odd funny, indeed.

I think it is just resistance and nothing special. As the resistance increases the measured voltage decreases. Infinite resistance would read zero volts. As the resistance decreases, the measured voltage increases up to the full potential voltage of the battery.

Thanks for checking. I thought the drop in voltage was somehow proportional the current, so the 0.0075 does not seem to correspond to the 10V. But I really have no idea what the math should be to determine amps through voltage drop, or if it is even possible Are you sure you read 0.0075A? I will double check my reading...

The rear should be one size smaller than the stock OEM. The early Sports came 170/60 but do better with 160/60. There is a fan for every brand. I like Metzeler and Pirelli better than everything else I have tried.

Most female riders just don't know about the Guzzi vibes. Otherwise they would be lining up to buy them

I thought gas and TLC was enough, but I suppose you are correct that it'll go a long way toward keeping the peace, if I give them cars. Will Matchbox cars do the trick?

Nobody is condemning you, just the negative features of the bikes. Don't tell me a V-Rod is an extension of your personallity!?!

I am going to find out. I just gave my wive's car 5 free gallons of gas, and now I smell like gasoline. I think I'll go light up a cigarette This weekend I should have time to explore the options.

You are scaring me. The gubernators destiny is to empower the machines.

There was a previous thread debating the claims of FBF. I was probably their biggest defender, and I think they were pushing the limits of stretching the truth. 100RWHP is possible, but at a compromise. You would need aggressive cams and porting, big valves, high compression pistons, lightened flywheel and rods, aggressive tuning, and an optimistic dynometer. I think the MotoEuro bike had just about everything but the lighter components and the hot cam. I think the only reason to go with a cam hotter than the one John T used, is if you want to go purely for top speed. According to the Dynos, John T. actually lost the tiniest bit of peak maximum HP, but gained alot of high mid range. John T. did just about every reasonable mod except for the high compression pistons, and got very similar result to the Moto Euro/ FBF bike. These mods will cost a fair amount of money and you will still be slower than just about any multivalve water cooled liter sport twin....but that is not the point of going for it. As always, your mileage may vary.

There is a barometric sensor in the ECU, but there should be no reason to read it when the bike is off. I don't know why it would need power for anything. Some cars with fuzzy logic will store driving habit, and to erase the memory of those habits you disconnect the battery. Maybe our ECU is more complex than we imagined...

I don't know much about engine oil temperature, so I googled and found http://oldskoolsuzuki.info/index.htm?patrick/projects/karsten/karsten.htm~mainNot sure how reliable the info is or how our bike may differ, but it may be a good reason to add a cooling fan

No, I get 9.58 M Ohms between the ECU ground wire and the 17pin. So it there must be some switching going on inside the ECU. EDIT or more exactly 9.57M at the 17 pin harnass disconnected 9.58M at the #1 fuse harnass connected.

cheater!

That is the stereotype, just like Guzzis are owned by eccentric geezers. But there are people who break the stereotypes. We have a few twenty somethings on this forum, but not many, and fewer women Not all of us ride more than 10,000 miles per year, (I only ride about 6000 per year) and there are actually some Harley riders who ride more than 10000 miles per year, and some of it touring miles!!! I like the picture Ben posted of the Harley covered in mud. More power to them What is the concensus on Harley vs. Victory? To me, the Victory looks better built.

Oh boy, I have really been chasing my tail. Thanks Des and Docc for stopping me from missing more of the riding season! I just don't understand how my bike previously started after a month of sitting????? When I replaced my regulator, my number three fuse was starting to melt, and with the new regulator, I got too much resistance on that line to get a good charge, so I had to run a bypass to the battery. I suspect the 0.25V reading you get is just back current through the Diodes of the regulator. Maybe this current draw through the ECU that the three of us have is not normal, and we who have cooked our regulators also cooked our ECUs Anybody else want to check the number one fuse voltage?

Maybe you can put your wife at ease with a bike with anti-lock brakes???? Too bad most of such bikes are such behemoths.

How about a 1975 XR 750 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1975-HARLEY...1QQcmdZViewItem Buy it now for only $18,500 US Plus maybe two thousand to make it road legal

That does seem to be the same symptoms. Maybe it is normal, and I have had the bike apart for the past month for nothing?!? I only got concerned after my regulator and battery died. Perhaps with my new battery I could last many days?...but not a month, and I have lasted a month before. Could somebody else check the volts across the number 1 fuse socket, please?

If I left it at that, I would buy one. But I am smarter than that

What is wrong with honesty? If a bike has strengths, it shoulb be praised. If a bike has weaknesses, it should be knocked. No big deal, right?

For me it is about not liking an over-weight bike with too much rake and trail and not enough cornering clearance that would not be a lot of fun in the twisties. I thought if Buell could get a hold of the engine he could address my complaints, but apparently he has no such interest. Maybe he is a bigot against water cooled engines? Historically Guzzis and Beemers have been the choice of people who think like engineers, and Buell too, has appealled to that audience, but a 90 degree twin would appeal better. Even with Guzzi, water cooled multivalves may be inevitable, although the air cooled two valves have the keep it simple approach that we appreciate.

I think James the dyno guy was bummed about the small loss of power going from run 8 to run 9. I think he should have gotten more power out of it. Perhaps there were air leaks at the probe fittings With individual cylinder mapping and using bung adapters, I would have expected better results I got nearly a 4HP increase from my tuning and all they did was stick a probe into the muffer measuring both cylinders at the same time. I got increased pinging from my tuning, so I always suspected the probe shoved in there was inaccurate and welding bungs on would have been more ideal Here is my before and after mapping compared with a Jackal with Bubs and open airbox. http://www.scripps.edu/~dlaing/v11s/DLV11-vs-TEJack.jpg