dlaing

But people care more about air filters than baby seals http://www.google.com/trends?q=air+filters...eo=all&date=all

Don't you guys know? The greater internet knows him as BFG. http://www.google.com/trends?q=what+time+i...eo=all&date=all ...extremely popular in Canada, but unspoken of in Germany

Germany has their priorities right! And if you add Guzzi to the trend search, Germany kicks ass! http://www.google.com/trends?q=global+warm...eo=all&date=all

Maybe I am obscessive, but for the first 12K miles I recommend changing the spark plugs, oil and adjusting the valves at 500miles, 3K, 6K, 9K and 12K. After 12K you will be ready to adjust to a less meticulous schedule, as should have a good idea of how well the valves stay adjusted and how quickly the oil gets dirty and worn. I also recommend checking the throttle balance every 1500 miles, for the life of the bike, as it is quick and easy to do. Checking frequently for loose bolts for the first few thousand miles, is critical. Siliconing electrical connections should be done the first time the gas tank comes off.

As Ratchet said, that is a good guidline for most of us, but in my opinion, if you ride 24K mi per year, annually is fine, and semi-annually is overkill. And if your ride 2.4K per year, tri-annually is fine, and waiting five years is too long. If you are fat and ride on bumpy roads in humid or wet conditions, change it more frequently...not sure about heat, but I imagine monsoon weather would be the worst. Racing will probably wear it out more than commuting. Progressive springs may produce more metal debree than linear springs. Mileage is not a great indicator for shock and fork wear, but I guess mileage and time are about all we can base sevice intervals on. Riding style and weather are more subjective. Changing it just to get the fluid level and viscosity dialled in correctly is a good excuse to change it sooner.

hmmm, I just saw this for 4way for the first time. But I don't think it seals and it appears to rely on more conventional connectors.

Yep. I used them when I went to the Electrex voltage regulator. Probably the most reliable connection method out there as the wires are held together under reliable pressure and the models with a seal seam to seal nearly as well as the best amp connectors, but I have not tested for water proofness. The only problem is they get a little bulky and ugly compared to say an 8 way Amp connector. Also, they could be cheaper... As I run into electrical problems in the years to come, I plan on phasing out the less water resistant connectors with these.

From Pirelli World Magazine issue 42

I think the dealer and or his customers are confusing the Diablo Strada with earlier Strada tires. While not up to the performance level of racing and full sport Pirellis, the Diablo Strada may be the ultimate compromise of traction, longevity and price. I have no idea how the mileage will be, but I am pleasantly surprised about the performance. I personally think Pirelli did the buy one get one free promotion to help shatter the "cheap" image of the old Strada tires. As always, YMMV, and you should only believe what you experience, and even then, beware.

No idea about the valving. Discussions on the Sachs seem to indicate a 550#/inch spring is about right for your weight. I misjudged with my Sachs when I bought a 475# spring for my 210+# 475 is better than the stock Sachs spring, but still not quite ideal. I believe the stock Ohlins spring is about 475, which is probably fine good for a 160 to 180 pound rider.

This one looks more likely to happen

Was that Antonio Carroccio in the video next to the hot lady high on ecstasy?

On your original post you said If that is truly the problem, I suppose you can do what others recommended and clean, silicone, and recrimp, but I myself am no good at recrimping, so I recommend the more drastic. Cut off the expensive, elegant connectors, that you are sure are not working, and replace with these http://www.webbikeworld.com/Reviewed-motor...ucts/posi-lock/ Problem solved....as long as that was really the problem... But you have tried the less drastic and replaced the relays, right? Until you get the relays, don't even bother wasting your time pulling the tank. Also, I am still not clear as to whether when you press the start button, is the starter motor turning or not. Trying to get by on a marginal battery is a bad idea and will drive you nuts. Assuming you have a Spark brand battery, the battery should be showing atleast 12.65 V before you try to start, otherwise starting is a gamble. Dip below 12.5V and forgetaboutit. Fully charged is just over 12.8V for the Spark and for the Hawker batteries. Yuasa, I believe, are fully charged at a lower voltage and will probably start it at a lower voltage. Search the forum for the right battery. Yuasa make a few that are supposed to work and the Hawker Odyssey is the easiest direct replacement, unless you already have a Yuasa, then the easiest is to replace with same model Yuasa. Odyssey needs expensive special charger, Yuasa does not. KNOW THE RULES!

Wow you have nearly 5.8 miles per post! At this rate, by the time you hit 100,000 miles you will have made over 17,000 posts! Regarding warranty items, I would just check that everything works. No flopping tachometer or speedometer needle. All the lights work. Bike does not ping. No leaks, etc. Since you have to go so far to the dealer, I think you should have nothing special done as you need to visit the dealer more often, just to put some miles on your baby. But seriously, it is a long way, so get the most out of the service. And if you are not a do it yourselfer, now is the opportunity. A good tune up is in order. Make sure they grease the rear wheel splines and shaft drive. Checking the rear bearing spacer, as someone said, is an excellent idea. Rear brake noise would be something to be aware of. It is low miles, but having them change the fork oil and adjusting the sag could help make you want to ride the bike even more. Check for deteriorated rubber hoses, etc. Check the battery. Be sure to test ride for a few miles after they deliver the serviced bike to you. Thats all i can think of.

Owww! I hope the pain killers are good and you heal well. And most importantly, don't be a stranger to the list! It would not be the same without you here.

Yay! and the Griso is now available! On a slightly related note, anyone check out this site? http://www.raptorsandrockets.com/news.html Nice photos and videos of Guzzis

Are you guys talking Wingrack or Tubular? I think the tubular would look better PS I seem to recall they had a universal tubular kit, but I just checked and could not find it. (Universal meaning: hire a welder...but I guess any tubular kit could be made to work. )

I think we should just have heavier pads than are fashionable, like the Michelin man or American® Football or hockey pads over our padded leathers.

Everytime I put a new set of tires on there is an initial disliking for the tires because the new tires turn into the turns so much faster. But I know I have to get used to them, before I judge them. I also know that I should not compare them to merely to the worn out characteristics of the proceeding tire....but I do, because my memory has trouble remembering how good the tires are. What struck me when I put on the Stradas is that despite being the second cheapest tires I have used, they seem to be equal or better than anything I have tried. I attribute this partially to the quality of the tire, but also to a faulty memory that sub consciously must be paying attention to the worn out, last days, of the previous tire. But I also noticed that I was keeping up with riders that normally totally lose me, even when my previous tires were new . It is difficult to be objective. I do recall my desperately wanting to replace the Bridgestone, Avon, and Continentals that I tried. While the Pirelli, Metzeler, and Dunlop seemed pretty good at the end of their lives. The Bridgestone and Avon had more front cupping which made me desperate to replace and the Continental had a speed wobble problem. As much as I liked the Dunlop d220, I am pretty sure I went slower on them, despite the excellent feel of traction. One thing I found is that tire mileage did not seem to vary much between tires It is very difficult to be objective about tires, I may just stop trying and stick to Pirellis, even if they are not made in Italy If equivallent Metzeler is cheaper, I may go with that.

Yah, Ivanna Goodaportingjobwitha Mayo

What appears to be more interesting to me is Troy Bayliss' return to Ducati in World Superbikes. I don't think even Rossi could beat him this year, but we will never know. For GP, my money is on Rossi followed by Melandri. Don't count Edwards out for third place. Honda may or may not significantly have more HP. If they did, Hondas would be making effortless passes on any track with a decent straight...not happening. It would be cool to see a stoner win

Mike Rich pistons and everything on John T's bike http://www.guzzitech.com/JTsRosso-PtII-John_T.html Mike Rich head work, ported and flowed with racing valve springs and hardened valves. Carrillo rods, engine lightened and balanced. Megacycle 620X9 cam etc. But don't neglect your suspension and ergonomics

Get a inch think piece of high density foam, slide her under your rear and go for a ride. See how it feels, especially going down hill. I tried it and it seemed to make the bike feel less secure. Lowering the pegs is a better option for me as I my chicken strips are enough to fill a KFC family size bucket.

I'm with Ratchethack on the brain damage Note the start relay is five pin, so in the unlikely event that you put a four pin in the start relay's socket, something won't work. Also note the earlier V11 with the looser relay bracket are more susceptible to the problem, not because of the bracket, but because of how much juice is flowing through the lighting side of the starter relay. And major Kudos to Dan for providing the relays at a profit rate equal to slave labor. Speaking of labor, back to my own wiring problems...