dlaing

Very nice. It might be worth throwing the stock crossover on and shelling out a few bucks to see the power difference. And then hire some cannibals to make them for $20 a pop and sell them for $200! ...but by now, almost everyone who wants a Stucchi has bought a Stucchi or similar.

Major reason Changing sooner will only make your mayonaisse whiter... Thinner oil will make it more like creamy vinagrette than Mayonaisse, so a tiny bit more will wash a way a tiny bit more easily, but only a tiny bit of a difference. That would make it even worse...but only a little Your bike will love it here!

I took advantage of the same deal to those that poste the deal! I have been on the rear Strada for a while now and really like it! Why does almost every new tire feel better than the proceeding tire Anyway I feel more confident in the twisties with it than the proceeding Dunlop that I thought was the best ever. It feels like a slightly harder compound as gassing it out of turns seems to start the feel of sliding a little earlier, but it still feels more confident. Remarkable for the price! I can't wait to install the front tire.... Will report on mileage before end of Summer if all goes according to plan

Kind of like an R2D2, but three times bigger and faster, for big dogs like DBG

I guess the five volt range of the wideband more accurate than the the one volt range of the narrowband emulation.? Great job getting that all together. Did you measure the temperature at the sensor? I was thinking of putting my sensor about where yours is, but wanted to get a temperature reading first.

The primary reason is because one 35Watt HID puts out brighter light than a 55Watt halogen. But keep in mind that brighter is not necessarilly better. How much you see is more important. Brighter lights constrict your pupils and won't let your eyes adjust as well to the darkness of the road ahead. I believe a blue beam will also constrict the pupil more than a yellow beam of similar luminosity. On the other hand the blue beam(really a whiter white beam) gives a truer impression of objects in the road. As much as I buy the theory of yellow beams, it is impressive to ride in an expensive car with HIDs. My one eyed buddy who drives a Lexus with HIDs, greatly prefers it to his Ford Ranger's halogens. But it could all just be the illusion of brightness making him think he sees more Is this beam built as well as a Lexus beam? I am not sure, and it is still just one beam I have another friend who enduros at night. He has a 35Watt HID and loves it. But enduro is a hole different matter as his HID is for high beam and he does not care if he blinds the coyotes. I still subscribe to the school of raise the beam a little higher than is legal, but stay with a legal bulb. I wish yellow tinted headlights were legal in California. I am still waiting for decent LED head, fog, and driving lights. There are some bicycle lights that could be adapted and they would not drain the charging system much. The other reason 35W+35W setup could be good is that the low beam is designed for low beam and the high beam for high beam, while on the Bosch 8inch the low beam is a bodge....will not not anymore than squeezing a low beam and a high beam reflector into a 7 inch circle, but it does take away from the ability to optimize the low beam....the trade of is a nice big reflector. (which is what I think MotoGuzzix was getting at when he posed the question)

Here is the four step process that I recommend. Demand money. Threaten to take to court. Issue subpoena. Get money back. You have waited long enough. EDIT Oh crud! they are in UK. Perhaps one of our brothers in the UK can steer you to the correct paper work.

looks very nice! http://www.gpr.it/ has a little more info including list prices for various options

That sounds scary to me But then again I have touched an electric stove before it became hot. Are electric stove elements ceramic coated or anything like that? Maybe if you put a condom over the wired grip I have read you are supposed to turn heated garments off before they become wet.

WD-40 will help take them off. But clean the WD-40 off real good before putting the new on.

If I did not have $20 worth of fuel in the tank right now, I would be all over it, really, maybe, uh next year. I guess I could siphon off into my car's fuel tank.

OOOooops! My bad. I forgot to hook up one of the ground lines. It then behaved the same. 0.072A across the number one fuse sockets. FWIW the voltage measured 9.2V across the same number one fuse sockets. So anyway, did some probing and came up with nothing. I was able to probe most of the wires, but a few gave me no change on the volt meter, so I am not sure I probed and made contact on all, but the #17 was the only one with any voltage. Oh well. I guess it is on to disconnecting the fuel injectors.

Does yours have the pump in tank? I believe the US models put the pump in the tank beginning 2003 But the US is behind on stuff like that.

I was hoping that other one would be a chick magnet, but it may attract others more quickly. Maybe this is more sensible. I couldn't find a hooters double switch

But seriously, I went into the garage for some hot probing action, I hook up the brand new battery and guess what? 0V and 0A across the number one fuse! Bloody electrics! Now the battery is freshly charged so it is reading more than 13V (and presumably by morining it should stabilize) Could the higher voltage have something to do with it? I guess I could put the 12.82V battery back in and give it a go, or just start it up, shut it down and test it. Back to the garage, need more beer. Thanks for the help so far everyone!

Or how about one of these

OK, I finally found a sewing pin, so off to back probe my mistress while the wife is away

And I have not had it die with the new battery, but I did watch the voltage of the new battery drop about 0.1V per night. The older battery did drop faster.

I don't mean across the battery terminals, but across the blade sockets of the number one fuse when it is out. Both of the batteries seem to hold a good charge when the number one fuse is removed. Although I have not tested the old battery much with that regard. I am just about done giving the old battery a charge right now, and will see how it holds overnight. Hard to tell as it will hover over 13V for a while after the charge. The new battery reads a solid 12.82-12.84V for the past three days after getting a full charge followed by a five mile ride, followed by some probe testing. Edit, I know the old battery was charging to over 12.65V

Isn't 0.5amps like a dome light? I know that will kill my car battery within 24 hours(from experience )

At first it was taking a week before it got too low to start and then it got down to a few nights. But oddly it also lost charge while riding...but every time I checked the charging system it was getting what seemed to be a good charge, although the charge maxs out at 13.8x Volt, apparently because of the Electrex Regulator...I have been thinking it may need a better ground Perhaps the condition is normal and I really did need a new battery and now I may need to get the charging system running better. The overnight voltage drops with the new battery were less than with the 17 month old battery. If the condition is normal, how come I could let the bike sit for a month previously and then start it right up without a charge? Could someone please do me a favor and with the key off, remove the number one fuse and tell me how many volts and or amps are going between the two terminals? For Volts, I was getting a reading of something like nine or ten point something volts.

Says Mike lugging the leaking can full of fuel down the road back to his vapor locked bike that he thought ran out of fuel (like I should talk, having run out of fuel twice on my V11, and yes it took near exactly 5 US gallons to refill to bottom of filler neck.(which is why I would like to get access to that last near gallon) luckily the last time, I was only a few hundred yards down hill to the gas station, the other time I had to call my mommy as nobody would stop to give me a lift, standing with thumb out, helmet under arm and dead bike by side of road(damn Jap and Yank bikilists@#%!), Harley girl in pickup loaned me phone but would not let my scary mug into her cab....maybe it was the drool that scared her off or my views on global warming (see hooters thread))

I don't know how they are shipping now. I got mine pre-loaded with the map for a stock V11. If you buy from Todd Eagan aka Guzzitech, I am sure he will load whatever map you need for a modest charge or no charge. If you want to load other maps you can get a 9V battery adapter so you can bring your PCIII to your computer( but you need a PC) Powercommander dot com has excellent instructions on how to load maps. Can a computer illeteratti handle it? I know my mother could not, but if you got to this forum and managed to post, you probably could handle it.

Mike, I like the idea of the petcock on one side as a reserve. I thought having the return go back into the fuel line was a bad idea at first, but the reasons against it don't seem be real problems. 1)it would back flow the petcock's pre-filter (maybe a good thing) 2)it might recycle more engine heated gas, increasing the risk of vapor lock. This is just a fear. I suspect fuel temperature may be a little warmer, but everytime the regulator is in pressure release mode, warmed fuel will flow into the tank cooling it down (assuming the tank is cooler than the hoses, filter, and pump, as has been proven in previous threads(please don't turn this into a global warming thread) 3)it might increase the risk of cavitation or decrease the ability to clear air after fuel filter changes and after running out of gas.(perhaps the hoses would be routed so the air would flow up and out and again, durring the regulator's pressure release mode, fuel and any air would flow to the tank anyway.) Does the Jackal not have a fuel level sensor? Or is the purpose of hanging the regulator on hoses, so you may keep the fuel level sensor? PS the idea I posted is for the earlier Guzzis, I don't think it will work with newer models with pump in tank.

I guess I should not knock back probing till I've tried it.(says the back probing virgin as he slinks off to the garage with his multimeter )