dlaing

How is this for an idea? Move the Pressure Regulator to where the Level Sensor is, and then add a second Petcock where the Pressure Regulator was. The questions are, will the fittings intermingle, and will you remember to buy fuel before the Fuel Level Light fails to come on because you removed the idiot light? EDIT the level sensor hole is larger and the spacing of the bolts is greater for the level sensor. So my idea won't work without re-fabrication But please read the thread as there are other good ideas ahead.

Thanks for the replies, and a special thanks for uncovering the diode Using the second ECU seemed to prove that the ECU is not the problem. I hate back probing, but I am close to that point. I don't think much current is going through the 17pin to ground...I think it is going off somewhere else, and then to ground. I think I have also uncovered an error in Carl's and Guzzi's wiring diagram...will try to verifiy, but maybe it is the problem

A few months ago I started having trouble with the battery getting weak. I tested the charging output and it was very irregular, so I replaced the regulator and the charging became more regular, but the battery became weaker and weaker. I figure I had damaged the battery through use of an automotive charger or the bad regulator had damaged the battery, so I got a new battery. The new battery still faded over night. I tracked the fading to a 0.076 amp draw through the number one fuse leading to pin 17 on the ECU. So, I figured I needed a new ECU, so I bought one from Carl Allison. But it did not do the trick! The amps dropped but only to 0.072 amps. I tested with all relays and fuses disconnected. To track down the problem I pulled the tank and disconnected almost every connector I could find. I disconnected the coils, the fuel pump, the engine position sensor, the throttle position sensor, the air temperature sensor and the cylinder head temperature sensor (and I broke the plastic that the sensor screws into...warning this should only be finger tight and not beer cap tight). I also disconnected the lines to the handlebar controls and lighting. Everything I disconnected had no impact on the current, except for disconnecting the ECU. The only thing I did not disconnect yet is the fuel injectors, and the safety diode (#48 on Carl's diagram). The fuel injectors are a little difficult to disconnect...I will have to remove airbox. I do not know where the safety diode is????? Any ideas???? Does anyone have a schematic of the ECU?

Preload has almost no effect on how much it drops when your weight goes onto it. Preload has effects the bike only sag. Spring weight effects the difference between "bike only sag" and "bike and rider sag". Following Baldin's excellent advice 30% of 120mm is 36mm, 33% is 40mm and 25% is 30mm, so set a target somewhere in there. Once you measure the sag with you on it (repeat several time for accuracy and beware of fork stiction) then measure with the bike only. The difference will tell you if you need a new pair of springs. Other factors are also important like are you bottoming out or feeling like you are riding in the back of an empty freight truck. There is no exact magic number, and the ideal numbers will vary by rider weight. For me, I believe a sag difference of 5-10mm is about right. (I think 8mm would be just about right for my 210#s plus gear) If you weigh 150# that number should probably be closer to the 5mm, and if you weigh 300# it should probably be closer to the 10mm. Aggressive riders on rough roads will want a smaller number and tourers will want a bigger number. You are abit of both, so it is all about compromise. If if the difference between bike only sag and the addition of rider weight iis too much you need a heavier spring, if it is too little you need a lighter spring, but keep in mind the preload must be able to get you into the 30 to 40 mm range of total sag. Once you get the spring weight and pre-load set, don't go to the damping just yet. There is still the air spring effect that is controlled by the fluid level. Assuming you have the right spring weight and preload, tie a small zip tie around one of the forks and go for a ride to see if it bottoms. Take it over some bad bumps like dips, speed bumps, pot holes and rail road crossings. If it bottoms you may wish to raise the fluid level, but if it does not bottom, you may wish to lower the fluid level. Once that is taken care of, move on to the damping. I subscribe to the "just enough" school of damping adjustment which is why my number of clicks out is a bit on the large side. The guy I bought the forks from used rebound out 17 clicks and compression out 15 clicks, which was more controlled than my 18 and 20 clicks, but I was pursuing more comfort and compliance. If it feels harsh you may need less compression damping, if it feels out of control you may need more. If it pogos you need more rebound damping, but only just enough to prevent the pogoing. Somebody on the forum wrote some great notes on balancing the front to the rear. I am still trying to figure out the best setting for dealing with the California Interstate concrete superslab freeways that can tear you apart. That is my 2 cents, others on the list know a lot more than I do about this.

FWIW I have a sport with the cafe sport Ohlins forks and I way 210# butt naked...a bit more with gear, and I set mine to pre-load maximum, rebound out 18clicks, compression out 20 clicks, sag is 36mm with me on board and 26mm bike only. I could use a little heavier springs if I were to follow common consensus, but I am ignorantly happy with what it is.

Apologies are for sissies! Next time just give a good Did you check your spark plugs?

You would use 20W less on low beam and get a bluer light. On high beam you would be using 35+35 or just 5W more than stock. Since we spend most of our time on low beam you would have an extra 20W available towards other things like driving lights or heated grips or GPS or radar detector or laptop computer or .... The ultimate lighting would be something like the above HID lamp plus a pair of big round Hella Rally 4000 HID driving lights (35wx2). And get LED bulb to make another 4Watts available for the lighting. As much as I like the idea of HID I think a yellower light allows for better night vision as others seemed to indicate. I also think bigger reflectors are key, as they more efficiently turn alternator generated electrons into light on the road. Rewiring with relays is also a good idea.

Yah, you can see it here http://img106.imageshack.us/img106/1783/guzzirack9jk.jpg

Steam engined bicycles.....Sylvester Roper Hot Air and windage plates.......Pete Roper

That should be, I have not yet got around to adjusting valves and TPS and synching TB's, will do in two weeks time.

You probably should not be too concerned. It may be worth pulling the spark plugs to make sure they are not grey or melting. Luhbo did a great comparison of the Ti Map with the standard map. If you PM me your email address I can send you the Excel file. The Ti map mostly enrichens but it leans out in some areas. But the Ti map also advances the timing in a few places that could also increase the heat. Checking valves and TPS should not be delayed if the spark plugs are at all showing hot running conditions.

I thought I could escape the stupidity of Global Warming thread so I come here to live in the joyous yet disillusionary world of single purpose women and I find guys from Netherlands and Australia share or defend their sick fetishes. Who's going to moderate the moderator?

The problem is not that collar. The problem is the hole in the swing arm through which the shaft and u-joint pass. Once you get passed that problem with an angled fitting, some of us still have a problem with little clearance between the zerk and the side of the u-joint. EDIT OOOPPS, I thought he was talking about collar 7 not collar 6. Collar 6 is no problem either.

Bloody cannibals! Although the seal fell out and probably caused the failure, you may still have the dreaded short spacer problem. To determine, pull your bad bearing, and then look to see which sticks out further, your bearing spacer or your bearing seat. The spacer should stick out more than somewhere about 0.05mm (there is lengthy discussion on how much longer it should be) If you have to remake the spacer, be sure to use metal which will not distort under the high torqued pressure of the axle nut. cut the spacer to somewhere between 0.05 and 0.5 mm longer than the space between the seats. I think Pete Roper said just cut it 0.15 or was it 0.25 longer than the distance between the seat faces.

My memory is a little foggy, but I recall removing the circlip is not necessary. And I recall I tried to remove it anyway Just drift the bearings out from the back side. Stick a drift through the good bearing, hold the tip to the edge of the bad bearing and carefully but firmly whack it. Alternate drift placement to keep the bearing coming out straight. Note that your bearing spacer probably has some notches that help give the drift more access. Getting the right size drift is the hardest part. A half inch to quarter inch steel or brass rod would be most ideal.

No fair, you got a head start! But I think you hold the V11 Six Speed "Who's the Man" Crown! This video is dedicated to you http://www.fukuda-motors.com/mpeg/v11.wmv Windows Media Player required but not included.... but the Disco Motorcycle Man is a funnier video.

click here to go to his profile

Or just use internet exploder. PS great looking bike Geno!

Depending on what you want for options there are a few choices. EDIT items in blue have the diagnostics that you seem to be asking for. TechnoResearch VDST or MBDST Great for diagnostics but does not map. This is probably what you want. http://www.technoresearch.com/ They have various options: a digital dashboard, a palm version of VDST, and a computer version of VDST. I think the MBDST is discontinued. TFI $200 more of an enrichener than a true mapper...few would recommend or want it, but some might. No diagnostic. PCIII serial $Real Cheap second hand re-maps only. No diagnostic. PCIII USB $250 to $350 re-maps only...superior to serial model. No diagnostic. Axeone????not sure about this one. Teo Lamers modified ECU... $?$?$? an option if you just want an ECU that works better, they can adjust the ignition timing and fuel mapping. no diagnostics FIM ultimap flashload $179. http://www.fuelinmoto.com.au/ one time map only, remap for more money. No diagnostic. TuneBoy $310, maybe less while in semi-beta. Currently just maps,No diagnostic yet, but maps much more than PCIII, I paid less than $300 and love it! TechnoResearch DirectLink $379 This appears to be a little better than TuneBoy, but from my view not worth the extra money, especially if TuneBoy ever gets the diagnostic software working. I think this has no diagnostic, but you can get there other diagnostic products. FIM ultimap diagnostics $1500 I don't know if it is better than DirectLink or TuneBoy, but it better be for that price, it should have diagnostic and mapping. Cliff's MY15M Kit is about $300 Not sure what the assembled and tested price is. Awesome! Cliff's ECU provides everything that the combination of DirectLink and VDST do, and then some! Map, diagnostics, closed loop and more!

Retaliating against her or us? PS Carl, you rock!, dude.

Apparently not. A line runs directly from the battery to the ECU fuse to both the number 17 pin on the ECU and to the ECU relay. The relay needs the key to be on to energize the ECU, but hot wire still goes to the ECU with the engine off. But I may be jumping the gun on what is wrong. If I take an Ohm meter to the 17 pin and ground I get about 9,100,000 Ohms which should not be enough to drain the battery, in less than many thousands of hours, right? But when I test to Carl Allison's Cliff Jeffries' MY15, I get 0 Ohms at the same pin. The other thing is that if I take a volt meter between the fuse socket half that leads to the 17 pin and the other half of the socket that leads to the battery, I should get 0V, but I get 10.xV This is with ignition off, all fuses and relays pulled. Disconnect the ECU and the I get 0V between the two sides of the ECU fuse socket. I did not want to jump the gun, so I went back out to the bike, hooked up an ammeter across the same fuse terminals with key off, and all relays and fuses pulled and I got 0.076 Amps. Disconnected the ECU and I get 0.000 Amps. Drat! I guess I need a new ECU Thank you for your patience as I hijacked this thread....I just wanted to be clear that the Odyssey I bought 16 months ago is fine EDIT for those curious, replacing the ECU did not do the trick. The amps dropped to 0.072A. I ran a couple more tests and determined that the current flows into the ECU on the 17 and rather than the current going to ground through the ECU, the current passes back into the harnass, but through which line, I do not know yet. Perhaps it goes to the fuel pumps, coils or injectors that may be malfunctioning...

She set an example that Women have the POTENTIAL to be wonderful. She too, is fallible, like our Guzzi brothers.

Dave you stupid lazy relativist! It looks like I have a leak in the electrical system....so now I have two batteries The worse part is that the leak is in the ECU Will trade your ECU Ti or regular ECU for either $100 or a three day old Hawker Odyssey plus some cashiola!!! EDIT never mind, Carl A. will sell me back the ECU I sold him...Thanks Carl! So what caused this???? I don't know. Probably the failure of the voltage regulator, or running a charger on it without pulling the ECU fuse(probably a good idea), or the Tuneboy (I don't think so, it should be no worse than hooking it up to a Guzzi shop computer, but it ran the battery down a bit, so the charging system may have had to work harder, which could have toasted the voltage regulator and then the ECU??? but that all could have happened from a low battery anyway...) I hope getting a replacement TuneBoy Key is not a big problem... For now I will just pull the ECU fuse to keep the battery from running down.

So, "the more I love you" becomes "Ooo ya' evil eye whore motha"???? Or " I really need you right now Ralphie" becomes Evil won't tire houdini reality"???? or is she just saying " I really need you right now Carl with your big concrete hard d..."

Yay! I finally got one!!!! We need an emoticon for popping a wheelie I'd like to thank the director, the producers, the academy and all that made this possible I'd like to thank my wife, for her patience as I spend too much time at the computer. Id like to thank my mother for giving me her old Zenith computer that got me started down this path. My father for showing me the true value of drinking My brother for getting me out of the gutter. My sister for letting me know about how wonderful women can be. DBG and BFG for braking down the quiz system so that even I can get a point! (or atleast that is what Nogbad seemed to indicate was happening) And most of all Jaap for making it all possible