dlaing

It can be an awakening experience when you discover how close 70% is to 101% If you think back to your last crash, you probably won't think it was 21% more "pushing it" that caused you to crash. Last time I crashed, I had a good groove on and was riding as well as I ever had, taking turns quickly and making no mistakes, and then boom, out go the lights, broken shoulder and ribs. I have not been the same since. I now ride slower, somewhat because I learned, but more because I am scared, and fear is not a good when paranoia pressures you to make mistakes. So, I have to learn all over again. This weekend I made a mistake and pushed it beyond 100% and only a miracle and will power saved me. Hopefully I will learn from it. I love Guzzis and the riders it attracts, because we are in general a cut above in talent, passion, and maturity. And without letting it get to our heads, I think we all know you can never have enough talent, passion, and maturity. As Mike Stewart and others say, "keep the rubber side down" PS OrangeOkie, I seem to recall reading about the accident on a differnent forum. I hope everybody learned from that, but I seem to recall a feeling that it could happen again from that group. And didn't one guy just keep riding past the carnage? I recall he regretted not stopping. Often we don't know how we will act until we are in that situation. We all handle stressful situations in different ways. Some laugh, some cry, some run, some hide, and some stand up and do the right thing.

Could be. Probably if you do a patent search you could find more detailed images I cannot disagree with complete certainty, but the center of mass that I speak of is the center mass point of the sweeping radius(not diameter) that is having a change in direction that creates the force. I think it would be very difficult to calculate it with great accuracy, but I suspect the the force is directly proportional to mass, how far out that mass is, and how fast the mass is spinning. I proved to myself that their numbers could be accurate. You may write it off as being pointless, but I doubt you can prove it is pointless. I thought I answered that, but I suspect since I don't exactly know what a polar moment of inertia is, I could be wrong. Yes, that is what I used and it makes sense to me. Probably most of their audience will lose interest if you discuss PMIs They do not say a three pound wheel with the mass at the perimeter or at hub, and from my very rough calculation, their 3lb estimate could easily be properly calculated. I did not even begin to calculate in the spinning gears that would at more counter force. 1. False 2. True 3. unsure, but I understand why it would help, but I have no plans to test it doing triple digit two point landings. 4. True

Your orange battery was probably a Hawker Odyssey http://www.shop.edirectory.co.uk/knight_ba...+pc545&cid=2267 or http://www.knightbatteries.com/prodpage.cf...D=11408&next=11 oddly the pc545mj is cheaper than the pc545 at knight batteries

Bullocks! FWIW I roughly calculated the gearing from their image to be a little more than twice as fast as the wheel....something like a 2 to 5 ratio. Tire weight is about 15# Tire is spinning with its center mass at a radius of maybe 25cm. Wheel weight is about 10# (not including their patented spinning gears) Wheel is spinning with its center mass at a radius of maybe 15cm Brake weight is about 8#s (4lbs per rotor for 320x4mm), (not including their patented spinning gears) Brake is spinning with its center mass at a radius of maybe 12cm I am not sure the following math is correct, but if we take (15x25= 375) + (10x15=150) = 525 and compare it to (8x12=96)x5/2=240 If you add the forces of a normal wheel you would get 375+525+96= ~1000 This wheel assembly would have a force of very roughly 525-240 or ~285 So, 100MPH would feel like 28.5MPH (if you don't include the effect of the rear wheel) On their website they say it reduces it to the effect of a five pound wheel, brake and tire assembly. So I would guesstimate 5x20=100 so my math is very different than theirs. Perhaps tires weigh much less than 15# A 8# tire would be 8x25=200, 375-200=175 and 285-175=110 or very close to their 5lb claim. Add 320x6mm rotors and their 3lb claim may make sense.

Stupid people like me who get airborn at 120+MPH, landing in a speed wobble, and thanking myself for shelling out the money for the Ohlins that probably made the difference between life and death. Ohlins steering damper is now on my wish list, and if this thing actually works, I may be in line to buy it.

Potentially yes, but you could and probably should use a more massive or better ventilated rotor. Because it would be decreasing not increasing steering resistance, it would not be a big problem to go with 5mm thick Brembos ....but unsprung wait is another issue. Compare it to rim mounted brakes where brake leverage is similary increased, as is cooling area, but it is all at the expense of increased steering resistance.

Better to kill your liver with Vino than to kill your libido with Prozac. ... better still, just ride.

So, Gorilla snot is basically the same thing as elephant snot...just a smaller container Actually I thought Elephant snot was any gasket sealant. ...And these Alpina wheels could work nicely because they should be lighter than the Guzzi Behr Tubeless and safer than the converted from tube type wheels. If the Alpina are anywhere near as light and inexpensive as the OZ wheels, they will move to the top of my wish list, but just under the Ohlins or HyperPro shock.

Good Grief! Is there any racing class that is unlimited other than mandating no more than two wheels and a twisty race track?

What is Gorilla Snot?

I think it is great idea! Increased rotor speed for better braking! Less front wheel gyro force will help at the "legal" speeds we ride. This idea will have to be proven on the race track. Already Yamaha is dominating GP with reverse rotating engine(Rossi on the bike does not hurt) Reverse rotating front rotors is an even better idea because it more directly effects your steering and is not dependent on engine RPM. Although I suppose there are some downsides like more expensive, increased sprung weight and increased drag. I would be happy just going to lighter wheels.

I don't know how thick it is. Perhaps your local autoparts store carries it and you could see it in person?? But for only $6.50 plus shipping it is worth a gamble. Personally, I think the risk of a leak is low and it may not be worth the trouble. But then again there maybe something about the fit of your seat or whatever that may be increasing the risk. And if you have a car and it does not fit your bike, you could always use it there... ...just thinking out loud

I wrote with the help of others like Carl, (IMHO) a pretty good guide to the Electrex ElectroSport Regulator here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=6828&hl= Feel free to add to it.

An alternative to letting the acid drain....get an acid diaper instead http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/battmat.php Not sure how it holds up to rain. The rubber OEM tray is pretty shallow. Some people make boxes for their batteries that will contain more of the acid....

From the Hawker guide:12.84 at 100% 12.50 at 75% 12.18 at 50% 11.88 at 25% The temperature change is good to know about.

capisco.

I think it should be a poll But what is the question? Is it, what should STR8FLCKZ do with it, or is it, what does Carl have planned for it, or as Luhbo may be leadining to suggest, will str8flkz lose an eye if he jumps the battery?

I think you need to modify their 124 cubic inch twin cam kit to fit the Guzzi But seriously, didn't someone post that our throttle bodies work well on the smaller Guzzi engines like one the 1000 and 850LeMans???? If that is the case, perhaps a larger bore would be an easy way to more power on the 1100s. I am pretty sure I make maximum power at WOT for every RPM down to 3000RPM, so the higher RPMs could probably benefit from bigger TBs and intakes

I would not go for the buy it now price unless they were going to be "my" dealer for repairs and service. MSRP is $11,490 US This bike on eBay is "New" with "full 2 year warranty", or so they posted. I would verify that they are an authorized dealer and that the warranty would begin upon purchase or delivery, and not months ago...

I lookkked through all of them, and they are mostly white, some are mixed breeds, two are what Americans call black, 7 are what the KKK call non-white, one is "yellow" and one is BLUE

If it is struggling to engage, it sounds like your solenoid is not making good contact. Before you pass it to Carl, try pulling it apart, clean and silicone spray lube the piston, cylinder, and contacts, and look to see if the contacts can be adjusted. I did the cleaning many times with my V65's Lucas starter....not sure if the Valeo is the same animal. However, the Lucas would only work for about six months after a cleaning, so if you can afford a new one, that may be a better route.

Just like a few extra HP don't make a difference? KKK? No, just The Men Who Sexually Objectify Women Club. The guilt is tearing me up inside

If it is sending a signal that indicates a hot engine, then it will probably be too lean too start. If it is sending a signal that the ECU sees as a "fault", anything is possible as far as I know. ie. the ECU could shutdown, run extra rich for safety, etc.

for a good time call...