dlaing

I am not getting the error now, just this I should move up to Tiger, but I am a cheap SOB and too honest to pirate, despite the misleading impression given by my jollywrencher and previous pirate wench avatar. I can only go up to Quicktime 6.5.x that may be the difference.

I tried loading the map from the Ti ECU into my OEM ECU and did not like the results at low RPM. If you get a bunch of popping in lower RPMs, you may want to go back to your OEM ECU. On the other hand, I have Mistrals and open airbox. One can only presume that the Ti ECU is better mapped to the Ti Mufflers FWIW there are some PCIII maps available for the Ti combo. Also, I suspect most of your performance gain from the Ti mufflers will be above 5500RPM. I googled for a Ti dyno chart but did not find one Stucchi Crossover will help EDIT oh, you are on a 2004, so it may only make it louder Also being on a 2004, I believe the Ti ECU was mapped for the lower compression bikes with no front balance pipe. So you may want to do some re-mapping to get the most out of them.

I don't know if this is exactly what they will be offering, but it looks very nice...modern but classic.

ditto. I am on mac os 10.2.x. Quicktime says I don't have the right something or other.

My bike does not thread in, but I imagine from the thread side you can check the alignment with a flash light or a chopstick. Otherwise, you could be getting hung up on the other side. Sometimes I get a lever under the tire to help me align it. Just lifting the tire can be hard to get the alignment spot on.

Aren't you being a little over sensitive or paranoid or something? or were they overheating the bike or something? A few revs of the engine should do no harm .However being taken in the back may make you walk funny:huh2:

Half the fun of the monthly meet is the yacking I'll be watching the weather, but a little mist and wet roads won't keep me away. Otherwise all the hearty folk on this forum would think me a wimp.

I spliced one of the images. not perfect, but better... http://img160.imageshack.us/img160/4892/750s1aj.jpg warning almost 1MB

The power of Pirelli controls you! ...excorcise your demons cool ad flick with Naomi Cambell and John Malchovich. Someone on wildguzzi.com posted this, sorry if it has already been posted here.

It only seems to make sense for those that want to save a little on the price and insurance or who are intimidated by Cubic Centimeters. I believe this is essentially the same engine as the 1100, but with smaller pistons and jugs. So it is about the same weight, dimensions, etc. All for about 1800 fewer Euros. Too bad it is not as light and small as the Breva 750 was. Oops, I guess the 850 topic moved here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=7638&hl=

That is wrong. FWIW I saved up for my Quat-D by eating dandelion greens from my neighbor's lawns. My neighbors love me for it, but keep telling me I should eat the roots too, but I don't like the roots. Maybe if I could make root beer from the roots? PS any tips on how to get the dog piss taste out of the danelion greens?

Thats what my girlfriend said

You need stronger beer goggles

Assuming that the pistons, rings and pin really are exactly 20 grams lighter, and his engine was balanced "perfectly" How much weight would you take out of the crank? And since I am ignorant of the process, I have questions: how do you take the weight out of the crank? with a drill, a lathe, a mill, or what? And what does the 51 or 50 or 52.5% represent? Motoguzznix threw down some hints, but I still don't get it. I guess I could google the answer, but it would be good to hear it from those who know Gooses

From Motoman's articles he discusses how the most stressful points for the con rods are obviously just past TDC of power stroke and less obviously at TDC of exhaust stroke. "The 2 times that the bearing's speed in relation to the journal surface is increased, also happen to be the 2 most stressful points in the 4 stroke cycle. These 2 points are the first half of the power down stroke, and the last half of the exhaust upstroke." TDC of exhaust stroke is stressful (and increases vibration) because the piston is being pushed by the gasses in the crankcase into the vacuum in the combustion chamber. You can only imagine that a lighter piston will put less stress on the connecting rod and produce less vibration

I think balancing is voodoo. The counter-balance in the crankshaft is almost never in perfect balance with the piston, and the air pressure going on in the combustion chamber and even in the the crankcase throws a huge wrench into the balance equation. On my bike it is silky smooth going down hill with light throttle, but give it some gas and it starts to vibe at certain RPMs...funny thing is it used to vibe at 4500 to 5000 and now it vibes 4000-4500 Ignoring cylinder air pressure and vibration from the valve train, if there was no counter balance, a lighter piston would produce less vibration. If you have to go lighter or heavier with a piston, go lighter. I have no experience at this, but suspect 20 grams lighter out of "balance" will mostly just change when the vibes occur, more so than how much they occur. You might ask the question on Wild Guzzi. I am sure Will Creedon could give an interesting and accurate answer. Weren't you the one that told me Will was a balancing guru???? Can't wait for you to get your bike back running

I wish I had known more women who were that easy.

We should do something to change that.

Perhaps he has. But is is also slightly more of an X, like the Stucchi. I suspect he may even get better high rpm power than either the OEM or the Stucchi, better midrange than the OEM, but worse midrange than the Stucchi. But I am just guessing. Anxiously awaiting his dyno! Looks nice

A HUGE hole can be from too rich or too lean or more complex issues. According to Todd RacerX Eagan, their was no need to modify maps when upgrading to a K&N filter (non-pod type) However if your OEM filter element was dirty, you would see some difference.... Maybe your jarred the throttle bodies or pinched a throttle line, or knocked the sensor off the airbox????

If you want the best support for the PCIII get it through RacerX, aka Todd at http:www.guzzitech.com If you want the next best support, get it through your dealer, or the dyno tuner that you might use. Or if you want to save money, if you shop around, you can get it for well under MSRP. Don't forget to support the forum sponsors I think Greg's place, Moto International is associated with Teo Lamers so it GOOD to buy through them, but we are still waiting for Todd at MPH to throw Jaap some money We just don't want to scare him or Gregg off since he is such a valuable contributor to this Forum. I think I already scared Todd at Guzzitech off for arguing with him about PCIIIs By the way, For the truly enlightened, TuneBoys are better than PCIIIs. For the rest of you, PCIIIs are the perfect solution.

I don't follow But seriously, you may be correct. I just see redline as a point where things are moving further and further out of alignment, and I believe it should be approached slowly durring break in. In addition to the valve train, the cylinders may benefit from not getting too close to redline, because the force of the piston on the cylinder walls is less even as you approach redline. If you open an engine after 100,000 miles, the cylinders are not as round as when the engine was new. The high rpm whipping of the piston and and torquing of the piston against the con rod within the cylinder probably creates more wear on left and right sides than it does on the front and back sides. (perhaps one of the veterans knows for sure) Assuming this is true you will get more even ring pressure against the cylinder wall at lower RPMs. I am not saying lug it below 5000RPM, but do the moto man method below 7000 RPM...if you momtarilly exceed 7000rpm, no big deal, I just don't think that is where you want the breaking in to take place initially. I was told a long time ago to break it in by keeping the rpms low and NOT lugging it, and then gradually building up the load and RPMS....those days are gone, but I still believe that gradually building up the RPMs at the upper RPMs holds valid, but with an ititial limit of 7000 not 5000. Heck nobody is going to prove I am right or wrong, I just think it is common sense.

It might be a little loud in your neighborhood for you twenty minute break in But on a serious note, completely theoretically, whatever the differences are between the two muffler and how they effect wear, I think it is beneficial to break it in with a different set of mufflers than what you plan on using, as you it will break it in with a different pulse pattern than what you will get throughout the rest of the engines history, assuming you put the Ti on at say 1000 miles. What do I mean by pulse pattern? For the same reason that any two engines require a different map, and a change of mufflers even more so, is due to how the engine pumps the air. This pumping will have an effect on the load balance between cylinders, and the exact timing of when the rings are pressed against the cylinder wall by the air pressure. I believe an opportunity to use the stock mufflers would be a benefit, but I would not worry about it either way. The Ti kit theoretically is not concerned about emissions, so the engine should run richer and cooler, and there should be less risk of over heating...on the other hand, heat may help the break in, so I don't know I guess it might be like working a drill press, where you want your metal object to warm and soften(but not nearing the melting point), but you want your drill bit to stay cool otherwise it will dull. So we want the cylinder head to stay cool, but for the rings to heat. Cold weather and a hard run in higher gears seems to be the way to keep that temperature balance. A dyno with whimpy fans would not be ideal....but then again using a dyno is recommended. Heck I don't know.

Stress increases with rpm. I suspect the valves must find there happy place and wear into it before they are ready to take maximum stress. Keeping the RPMs below 7000 RPM does not conflict with the MotoMan's philosophy. He presents pretty good proof that riding it hard early is good for the rings, but as for the valves, I am not sure, and would error on the safety of keeping it below ~7000 RPM. Heck if you set the ECU to limit the RPMs to 7000, you could probably drive ride the bike twice as long before the valves wear out, and still pop wheelies.

Riddle "What question can someone ask all day long, always get completely different answers, and yet all the answers could be correct?"