dlaing

Speaking of frames, there is a recent thread on Tonti vs. Spine rambling away at Wild Guzzi... This link may get you there http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?PHPSE...07&topic=2587.0

Fully qualified for Cheshire Cat if he can fake the snooty accent... ...after all, he knows how to disappear and reappear

I am a proponent of ram air and just because someone has not yet been smart enough to that it has benefits, does not make it a fool's errand.To prove that it works, you would need a wind tunnel with air flow meters on the intakes. But just to make it work requires uncommon sense, WBO2 for safety, and some sewer pipe and if you need to prove it to yourself, some high speed runs. Maximum speed is not the only potential benefit. If the Air fuel ratio is set up right one might be able to tune it so that they get maybe a 12.5/1 ratio in first gear leaning out to maybe 13.0/1 in sixth gear. This would help highway touring fuel mileage while keeping the engine cool in the city. For those pursuing peak HP, I don't think it will work great in all gears because the air pressure compensation is not accurate enough...but power is not everything. The changes would likely be subtle and only have an effect of one HP or one MPG, but to me that would be worth it.

I think it would be really politically meaningful if they had cast an Irish guy as a terrorist in Munich and let him keep the Irish accent...Are you up for the roll? Either that or the Forty Year Old Virgin

Your dyno graphs are very interesting. You got very nice gains from the compression and valve timing changes As for going with more open mufflers, the general theory is that more open increases high RPM power at the expense of low RPM power. But if you compare dynos, the more free flowing mufflers APPEAR to benefit at all RPMs when switching to the Stucchi. But perhaps that is related to the timing and compression I am confused once more. The other great confusion is Jaap getting Excellent high rpm HP from the Mistral crossover. I think there were others with the front balance pipe and higher compressioned V11, who benefitted less from the Stucchi, than the earlier models did that had no front balance pipe....I suppose that makes more sense.

hmmmm? Either you still have a problem, or yours behaves very differently than mine did(before it died) I would get less than 13 at tickover and more than 14V above 4K. You may still have some trouble in the wiring. I was getting about a half volt drop between the the regulator and the fuse. Running a direct line (with inline fuse) from the regulator to the battery fixed that. But the 13.6V at idle seems to be a good sign, so maybe all is fine

Holy Cow! you could fit 4 kegs on that bike. More power to her! Durring last year's Castaic Lake Rally there was a guy on an Breva750 Hack. He rode it like a sport bike and could have benefitted from the extra power of the Guzzi Sport. You can't see in the photo, but Ed Milich and his dog are riding in the hack. Good times Death to the anti-fun police! Another benefit of the hack is riding on snow and ice.

who is on first

The smaller profile has less area, and air volume to displace the heat, so it will run warmer and heat up faster. By increasing the air pressure you are putting in more air, which may have an effect on heat, but I am not sure. But higher air pressure makes the tire more rigid and it flexes less. Less flexing equals less heat. An underinflated tire is more likely to explode while riding across the desert at high speeds. The smaller profile tire will require a higher air pressure than the normal profile tire....if only one or two PSI. Likewise if you put larger tires on, you would need less air pressure. In general the larger the tire, the heavier the load rating. Also, the higher the air pressure, the heavier the load rating. In any case the rear tire will almost always be running hotter, so I would not be overly concerned about one size profile difference, unless you are a very heavy braker.

Just so you are sure, the red wires lead out of the regulator and connect to the red/green wires, which lead to the number 3 fuse, and then to the battery. The melting of the connectors is disturbing. The 30A fuse should have blown. The regulator may have failed. After you reconnect the wires be sure that you do not get more than 14.7V at the battery with engine revved up. More so than Volts, amps will fry the wires. Do you have any accessories like hand warmers, fog lights, high output headlight, etc.

Yes.

Darn, finally I knew the answer, but Jim beat me to it

http://www.moto-one.com.au/performance/v11sport.html before and after stucchi comarison same bike and http://www.visi.com/~moperfserv/more_mg.htm before and after stucchi, but different bike(so less accurate) Both indicate that the Stucchi cross-over loses power almost nowhere and gains significant mid-range.

No, you will have to tune the ECU with TuneBoy I am half kidding. I simply favor TuneBoy over PCIII, but most seem to favor PCIII. Some people run without TuneBoy or PCIII or one of the other options, but I would not recommend it after changing mufflers, crossovers, etc. The Stucchi also boosts midrange, but not as much as the Mistral x-over

The shop manual indicates 14 to 14.6V But at idle and low RPMs you will readings in the 12.x to 13.x range. Depending on the load (and my memory) you should see 14V at about 2500 to 3000RPMs If you don't see 14V by 3500RPM, I would think something is wrong. If you see over 14.7 Volts, that could also indicate something is wrong.

An indirect way to search is enter the following into Google or Google images site:photobucket.com boobs

Oh shit! time to pick up my sister out of law from the airport....

I worked on my pinky bush d i c k brain mission accomplished avatar sourced from http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71/Tryin...tbrainSmall.jpg and the results of fun google image search looking for D i ck and B u sh. (it is more fun if you turn filtering off) I still like my Jolly Wrencher more... and nothing was borrowed...

I wonder if the setting slipped off on the left exhaust valve??? That could really throw the throttle bodies out of synch. In any case, the numbers being off that much indicates someone messed up. However I did find my numbers shifted around much more durring the first 10,000 miles, but now when I check(at over 30,000 miles) I rarely find even one valve out by more than 0.04mm You may consider using looser valve tappet settings. I don't know if stainless steel has different thermal expansion properties. Every one has a different opinion about valve clearance: Clearance specs (I think this is the US spec, but it could just be an outdated spec from older guzzis and almost everyone considers it too tight): intake: 0.002" (0.05mm), exhaust: 0.004" (0.10mm) Clearance specs (rest of world, but also what appears in the US owners manual): intake: 0.004" (0.10mm), exhaust 0.006" (0.15mm) I like mine set to 0.006"(0.15mm) intake and 0.008"(0.20mm) exhaust. RaceCo recommends 0.008"(0.20mm) intake and 0.010"(0.25mm) exhaust Looser valves tend to produce a stronger idle and I presume a little more low end power. I presume tighter valves will produce slightly more top end power One person claimed to get better fuel efficiency after tightening the valves to I recall the .10/.15mm Looser valves run cooler at the seats but rattle more, and may wear the valve train more. Tight valves have a narrower safety margin, and are more likely to burn. I imagine if you get a TuneBoy or a PCIII you can reduce the chance of burning valves by running a more appropriate rich mixture. With the increased compression, I would be concerned that you are now running hotter and leaner. But in the UK at this time of year, the air will probably keep you cool.

I just think it helps one predict how it will handle if you visualize going both smaller and larger rather than just visualizing going smaller....atleast it became clearer me. Many of us have more familiarity with 18inch wheels, and going to a 120/80 would make the bike handle more like that. I would not say it is right or wrong to go with a 120/80 or 120/60 rather than the 120/70, unless you run into load rating problems. But I think if you want it to "feel" more stable, and suck up potholes better, go with a higher profile....the more I think about it, the more I like the idea of a higher profile... If you want it to be more nimble go with the lower profile. If you like it the way it is, stay with it.

...also, BOGO Metzeler I believe it has to be purchased at a Parts Unlimited dealer(US only???) And the Metzelers don't come in a 170, so you would have to get the 180. I didn't order the Metzlers, but I am waiting for my Pirelli Strada to arrive

I think I need a size A shock absorber

If you have a manual fuel tap you will have to shut that, but then you can forget about the electrical connector for the fuel tap You may find it is also a good time to replace fuel filter, fuel lines, and put some silicone lube on the wire connectors accessible under the tank.

Are we discussing periods? My girlfriend just began her's. This month has not been bad, from my perspective. But damn, my childhood was plauged by the wrath of a PMS mother. It took years of self analysis to forgive all that crap, and I am sure there is still unforgiven residuals. Women should just pick up swords and bleed one another on the battlefield the way we manly men do. Oooops, sorry, I did not mean to start a tangent about war. Let's stick to discussing periods. I recall in high school I was barely awake through years of first periods.

That makes sense. But if you go undersized and run at a higher pressure, the overheating should not be a problem. If you had a choice of 120/80 or 120/60, what would you choose? Personally I am undecided, but probably leaning more towards the 120/80. If you had a choice of a 16 or 18 inch front wheel, which would you pick?