dlaing

Nothing is definite with Ohlins. The fluid level is used to set the air spring. With 350ccs your ride should be softer,(until you bottom out) The PDF has a chart of the effect

The progressive springs make it tougher to predict the results. Generally, I suspect that a 33% laden sag number is a good target for progressive spring, and that smaller sag numbers should be used for straight rate springs. I really don't have too much of an idea on the unladen number, I would have said 18% is too much, but I just looked at my notes and my front sag is set 33%static and 21%free, and I don't think the spring is too stiff. So, I now revise the 30%/10% target, and confess that I really do not know what is ideal, but for the front I suspect 30%/20% is about right, and for a progressive spring, more static sag...like 33% I'd have to go back and look at my notes for the rear....

Knowing free(unladen) and static(laden) sag helps to determine if you have the correct spring rate. Static sag is usually set to 25-33 percent of travel. If static sag is 30% and free sag is close to zero, your spring is too soft. EDIT (as it would be for John's example of a 300# rider) If static sag is 30% and free sag is close to 30%, your spring is too hard. EDIT (as it would be for John's example of a 100# rider) I imagine one could develop a chart to determine ideal numbers, but it would vary by ratio of bike to rider weight. But because we all have roughly the same weight bike, we can get a pretty good idea of the correct spring rate, from the numbers. I think about 10% free sag and 30% static sag is about right, YMMV EDIT, I changed my mind and now think more than 10% free sag is necessary to prevent bottoming. Probably a better way to determine if the spring is correct, is to set the static to 30%, go for a ride on your typical road with zip ties on your forks and shock and see if they don't bottom and that they are using up atleast 75% of available stroke. If you are not using 75% of stroke, your spring is probably too hard. If you are bottoming, your spring is too soft. Now keep in mind, I am making this stuff up from common sense, so others may disagree and be right. My guestimates of the 30% 10%(edit, not sure about that 10%, maybe fine for rear, but not front.) stuff that is digested from experts....who are all over the place on what "correct" numbers are. I guess you have to try it, and I don't have much experience there, yet. EDIT Note that on a thousand pound bike, 29% free and 30% static might be acceptible, and on a professional 125cc dirt bike, with a heavy rider, 1% free sag and 30% static sag might be acceptible. For our weight bike somewhere around 5-25% free sag and 25-33% static sag is probably fine. Perhaps with tighter numbers in the rear. Is that vague enough...

Pasta Run was a lot of fun. I think we had about dozen bikes. Don Angel leading the pack on his Paso. A Harley and BSA takin' up the rear, with Sonny's son in law making sure nobody gets left behind on his Yamaha. There were probably five Ducati's, a Honda, some other japanese machine, an R100, a California. I probably forgot a couple bikes....NEED MORE GUZZIS....next year... Oh, and the Spaghetti was delicious! Thank you Chef Chris, and company!

Oh, sh^t! I forgot to clean my bike!!!! Off to bed now, so I can get up early to spruce up the goose.

Wouldn't that be SWEET! Down draft fuel injection, LOW center of gravity, long wheel base, gaggle of torque... Or even a laydown parallel twin or triple.

No need to fear fuel injection. There are many solutions to the minor issues. The available fuel and ignition mapping tools available give you far more control than jets, needles and points. Go for it! ...But do NOT sell that beeeyuuuutiful bike!

Dang good analysis. It would be cool if we could write a troubleshooting flow chart. The only likely thing that is missing is that starting failure could also occur from faulty kickstand switch, neutral switch or 'sidestand' relay. Any interesting test in rpetersen's case would be to wait for failure, start with stand retracted, deploy stand and look for failure while still in unlit neutral. rpetersen's situation is most likely either the neutral switch or "sidestand" relay. Trying a new relay or rapping on relays should determine.

This skin looks great! But. how do I get a silver skin?

If you were touring her on the back of THAT seat, I suspect her problem was not a troubled past, but a troubled BEHIND. ...or did she ride her own bike?

I think the breakin period is a con spy ricy of the warranters to minimize risk durring the break in period. ...your conspiracy theories may vary.

I babied mine and I burn oil

Some people have increased their light output by adding a pair of relays and heavier wiring to better conduct power to the bulb. There is a thread with a how to wiring diagram somewhere. This also takes a load off some already over taxed relays.

Buell does alot of things right that Guzzi could learn from. lighter weight power at lower rpms under engine muffler perimeter brakes ...enjoy, but don't give up the nekkid luv thang! Likewise Buell could learn from Guzzi. More sex appeal, A sport-touring bike with longer wheelbase

I like the sound of farting in a bath

Oh and I called MGNOC-SoCal to see if they have a No Squids Allowed policy, and they do, but then I asked about calamari, and they said, "no problem, Calamari is welcome!"

The campground's policy is: "Pets must be kept on a leash at all times. No Doberman, Pit Bulls or Rotweillers." Chitty looks meaner than a cross of all three breeds. See yah there!

Check out this link: http://www.phpbbforfree.com/forums/socalguzzi-about531.html If he gets enough interest, it shall happen.

For those having trouble getting to that forum, I found if I tried to go here,http://www.phpbbforfree.com/forums/socalguzzi I got a server under repair message. But if I go here: http://www.phpbbforfree.com/forums/socalguzzi-forum-1.html all is copacetic.

I committed to show! Even took Friday off of work I hope to see a bunch our people there.

No doubt, you benefited from the stiffer spring For some reason I doubt SteveG has the huge sag that we had.

Is it sacrilege to say I prefer commuting in my car, all warm, with tunes blasting, saving my bike for what really matters, the weekend!?! I guess one problem is that the commute is only 7 miles, so the engine barely warms up and carbon builds up. But somehow, mostly on weekends, I have managed to get over 29K in less than five years (~6000miles/10,000KM per year) I bought the bike because I wanted to tour and get out of town, but I don't have time and money for that, much. So, most of the riding has been canyon carving, albeit with huge chicken strips.... My girfriend bought me a pillow that says, "You never see a motorcycle parked outside a pychiatrist's office" So, I bet GuzzTim has not seen a shrink for many years.

That kid on the the right side of the road in a black and red shirt looks suspicious.

I think she was singing about you: I can't begin to tell you how it feels It's a clear blue sky Out here my heart so full it's fit to burst Just counting the hours Home, such a long way gone How to share a day, here's my only way Send myself to you Wishing you were here I can't begin to tell you where I've been It's a world behind And if we are to find our heaven here We just have to look harder Now I can see you I never could before, now I want nothing more When I close my eyes Wishing you were here Home such a long way gone How to share a day, here's my only way When I close my eyes Wishing you were here I can't begin to tell you how it feels

I don't think it is an alternative to WBO2, because it is WBO2. What do you get for $650? I see: dual channel KWB3002 (1)@$385.50 Wideband O2 Sensor, [bOSCH] SO20004 (2)@$70.75 or $141.50 For a grand total of $527 Is the extra money for the meter? Cliff's optimizer is looking cheaper and cheaper. but this could enhance my tuneboy. I just want to see some tests comparing four or five gas analysis with Wideband sensor A/F.