dlaing

Here are some lousy instructions on how to adjust the gearbox adjuster screw. I did it with the box open, but doing it with the box closed should be pretty easy. You will be flying blind, so it is important to understand what the adjuster does. Adjusting the screw directly turns an eccentric cam that raises or lowers the rest postion of the shift lever and the rest position of ratchet lever. The rest position is created by the balance of the upshift return spring and the downshift return spring. The trick is to turn the screw until you find the balanced position. If you mis-shift both up and down-shifts, it it probably a different problem. But since this guy is only missing down shifts, it could indicate an imbalance. If he shifts and then it does click right and then you can't go to the next gear, then you might want to adjust it. I am not sure about the false neutral, but I don't think it excludes adjustment as a fix. To begin: mark where you started. It is possible to make it worse. Remove the acorn nut and mark the position of the adjuster screw. The lock nuts may be tricky to loosen. I had to keep turning the out until the adjuster screw would go no further out, and then the nuts turned on the screw. One half turn takes the lobe 180 degrees, so stay within a quarter turn of where the factory adjusted it. Adjust in small increments, be patient and test it every 15 degrees or fewer of the 180 degree arc, to find where it shifts well and where it shifts poorly. Too much in one direction and it will get stuck on upshifts and too much in the other direction, and it will get stuck on downshifts. You want to be right in between the two obvious failure points. One can not say that turning clockwise or counter clockwise will fix a downshift problem as the cam can be on either side. One could try going five degrees each way and see if it helps, but that is alot of trial and error. It is better to just try and get it centered between the upshift and downshift failure points. Once there, lock the lock nuts, put the starter back on and test ride! Pulling the side case makes it easier and you could check for damage, and The Pawl Spring binding issue. Oh and did we mention, stay away from the Yak fat and use RedLine ShockProof Heavy.

23rd Annual Spaghetti Run - Sunday, October 16th I think they usually meet at 9AM, depart at 10AM, return for Spaghetti at about noon. SonnyAngelMotorcycles 34 East 18th Street National City, CA 91950 (619) 477-8120 Map to Sonny Angel Motorcycles

moto,Oct 9 2005, 09:55 PM wrote a bunch of stuff, to which I reply: I guess I forgot alot of what you indicated in the ECU thread. I suppose I am still skeptical that residual O2 can be all over the place, but your charts do indicate that, like the following: The most interesting are 4906RPM with 1.0% O2 and 7408RPM with 5.1%CO There is nothing consistant!?! CO and HC and O2 all seem unrelated, like the chemistry equation was broken. It would be interesting to see the pulse widths with the rest of that data.

I don't believe that if I dyno'd today at MotoLab, rode for a year, switched fuel, had my tps go off by a couple millivolts, had my valve adjustment go off, my timing chain slacken, and then went to get dyno'd in MotoLabs ficticious mile high tuning center in Colorado by you, that you would create the same map. I also think that if I dyno tuned with you, erased the maps, and then dyno tuned with say, Doug Lofgren, or Ken Hand, (both well respected tuners) the maps would be very different. I theorize that a WBO2 could compensate a little better to changes...but I could be wrong. In which case, to greater reach perfection, I would have to dyno tune over varying weather conditions to ensure that the calculations such as barometer and temperature trim are correct. I think BSFC is overkill, and just targeting cruising positions on the map for slightly leaner than optimized for power, is adequate. But to reach greater perfection, I theorize that if a map was optimized for power, the ECU could take WBO2 indications of A/F below maybe 12.5/1 when the engine is at cruising, and lean it just a little. Excellent question! I am sure Cliff can better answer it. But to give it a try... The Optimiser, (I just noticed he spells it -miser rather than -mizer or Opti-Power ) on our bike can adjust timing, while the tuning link cannot....yet. The Optimiser can tune on the road....something that I think can produce better results, because weather can be adjusted for better than on a tuning link dyno. And most importantly, because I believe that the tuning link probe stuck up my muffler can't match a properly positioned WBO2 (flame away PCIII diehards!) There have been cases where the Tuning Link map made the bike run worse.

hmmmm??? That could be...I think you are correct! I sent an email to Wayne with a bunch of questions. Perhaps he'll answer that as well. Thanks!

But riding back may get you locked up in a cage But a micro-brewery tour through the North West sounds like a blast!!! I am sure you will agree that, beverages billed as beer, made from fermented corn and rice malt and traces of barley, really should be refered to as pisswater, rather than beer. Are there any good IPAs made with rice malt? Certainly there are some tolerable wheat beers, but most cannot compare to barley brewed beverages. And slightly off topic: Has anyone tried the 48proof Utopias? http://www.realbeer.com/library/beerbreak/...eak20020214.php

Yes, we have ignition!

Here are some screen shots of my unmodified ECU map: I find it odd that the factory map would have an offset.

I don't know if this helps, but the top and bottom are the same number: EDIT Here is a great chart intended for older Guzzis, but the part cross refs with what Pete and Paul said. http://www.users.tsn.cc/rdd/TT/contents/PRTS/partsub.html

So, if I spend $2000 dollars mapping at MotoLab, there is no way for on board O2 sensors to improve the mixture? While Cliff's software is currently fairly simple in how it handles the O2 information, it looks like it can more often do a better job of creating an ideal mixture at cruising speeds while enhancin a dyno tuned map than just a dyno map can. I imagine if a dyno tuner could be found that could tune for an ideal balance of power and fuel efficiency at varying altitudes and other conditions, than you are correct that a perfectly good map could not be improved. I think wide band sensors have gotten a bad rap because of the results of shoving a probe up an exhaust pipe and assuming that the results are accurate. No, they cannot replace 4 gas analysis and dynometers, but a properly mounted WBO2 should be able to improve just about any map. Or I could be wrong. You are the dyno expert. But you have indicated that proper mapping is where maximum power is made, and I disagree, as a sport TOURING rider. EDIT Derek, forget I said the above. I think you are essentially correct, and if I am correct, it is only because of splitting technical hairs. I believe the O2 sensor on Cliff's MY15M is best used with the optimizer to create a decent but imperfect map, that should be better than a PCIII tuning link map that has not been optimized for power.

Drat! I was too late for the early registration! So, just a reminder, it is $35 now, and it will be $40 a the door. Register now, to help them plan!!!

Wow! I just notice this thread has hit 10,000 views!!!!

So, here is my preliminary report on the TuneBoy Tune Edit program: Right now, the TuneBoy Diagnostic is not ready, but Wayne and Emma sent me the cable and the Tune Edit. Getting it set up went almost as smoothly as my PCIII. Both the PCIII and Tune Edit took a while to figure out how to get it to address the proper port. The PCIII has automatic com port detection, so it can be easier. The problem that I discovered is that my Com port labeled Com 1 is actually Com 2! Good Grief (Stupid Clone PC!!!). Any way, once I got past that stumbling block, I had to get the Key from Wayne. I hope that when Dealers sell the keys they don't have to wait for Wayne to respond by email. You have to be able to connect your bike to your computer, and your computer to the internet in order to authenticate the key the first time. This was not too bad for me, since I have a 15 meter ethernet cable, that I ran out my window and to the garage. But you folks in apartment complexes, may need to go to desperate measures to authenticate. Of course, while troubleshooting, I drop the firewall on my virgin pc and it immediately gets hit with spyware and hit by some benign Messenger Service Spam. Easy to clean, but damn, I wish this software was written for Macintosh or Linux....although I guess it is fine, since my PCIII software also only runs on windows. I do have the Tune Edit software running on Virtual PC, but I don't have a Keyspan serial USB adapter to test it with. A USB cable would be a plus. I discovered, with Wayne's help, that my ISP blocks port 80, presumably to keep me from running a web site from my home desktop computer. So, Wayne had to send me a different version of the program to authenticate the key through a different port. Once authenticated the software is Awesome! It has 3D graphing capabilities like what Derek has posted at MotoLab. The available tables are the base fuel map, the offset map(this is the prefered map for tweaking)(EDIT actually I don't think it is, as I suspect it may be for individual cylinders), the ignition map(Yah baby!), a start enrich map???, an accell enrich map??, idle ignition???, air temperature trim, engine temperature trim, and barometric trim. The documentation could be improved as I only have the Aprillia documentation. I still have to figure out the above features suffixed with question marks, how to merge the offset map with the base map, and how to Apply the PCIII map. Also, the sofware shows RPM, TP, injector pulse width, ignition adv, and O2 voltage. I think you need to be in Power Commander Emulation Tuning Link Emulation Mode, for the O2 voltage to show. Edit, I'll have to double check when the O2 voltage shows... As for the MY15 that Carl loaned me, I guess I need some cables that I cannot afford, so I may be sending it back to Carl. Or perhaps Carl has them packed up somewhere???? More to follow! But not for a while...

I think there is a spacer missing on your bike.

There is no clear consensus on the value of K&N filters, or the value of one filter over another. I think Todd Eagan dyno tested that there was no significant difference between a K&N and the OE paper filter. The K&N lets more dirt through. But I imagine, a six month old K&N will flow better than a six month old paper filter. Foam filters are an excellent alternative, but they initially don't flow as well, and temperature and time can degrade the filter till it disintegrates and pieces find there way into the engine. But precautions can be taken to make sure this does not happen. And a properly oiled foam filter will flow very consistently through a service year. Plus, particle filtration from a well oiled foam filter is EXCELLENT. Trying to get one to fit in the stock box, could be a challenge. Any way you slice it, your filter choice ain't wrong. However, how you maintain it, is critical.

I have two minor peeves about the Breva 1100: One, the styling, although handsome and very functional, is not very original, nor as beautiful as the other V11 six speeds. I think it borrows from BMW and Yamaha. Two, psycho-illogically, it is hard to lose a HP or two. The V11S gained a HP or two over the V1100S...This was IMPORTANT!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (if you know what I mean) But otherwise Guzzi did a hell of a job building what they should have built ten years ago! If you offered me an even trade, I'd have to, unfaithfully or rather adulturously, say YES.

And the way the conversation was headed,,,this blurb, from the above, possibly ignored, site is important, of course it would be helpful, but not likely easy, if you can measure the temperature of the pipe.... Edit Note that InnovateMotorSports say, "The maximum temperature of the sensor at the bung (the sensor hexagon) should not exceed 500 oC or 900 oF." And there is further reading that indicates that if too cold the reading will be off.

Lots of good info here: http://techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/ Like this:

Yah, his credibility was made questionable by his classified ad. I don't doubt that he thought it was too unstable. He just was not motivated to fix it. Just like I am no motivate to get to work...gotta go...

We have had a few complaints about it on our forum...one guy sold his bike partially because of it, although his classified ad said that their was nothing wrong with it. I was getting warning signs of head shakes from using a Continental on the rear....probably a lemon of a tire as others have no problems with Contis. The early geometry is not a problem, just a slightly greater challenge, with benefits to be reaped.

What is the most durable, easy to maintain dual-purpose bike under 400 lbs or 700ccs? Are the KLR and XL and such capable of 100,000 miles with similar service as V11s?

Oh boy! a cleaning thread! almost as much fun as an oil thread. I am afraid of all the don'ts, so I just wipe off extra dirt with a dry rag. I use a damp rag to get bugs off. My bike and leathers are too dirty...I really don't deserve such a beautiful bike Oh, so what are the don'ts? Number one is don't use a dry rag as this will scratch the paint....ooops, I already blew that one. Number two, don't spray water at the following points: @#$^#$%^# @#$%^%#&* ^%$@#& #*$% Number three, don't use harsh cleaners, like brake or carb cleaner on the painted surfaces, plastic body parts, rubber parts, etc Number four, don't clean it so much that vermin are attracted to its shine. Number five, don't bother cleaning it because it is just going to get dirty again!

This Joan Rocks! Joan Freeman, 1984 California II, 1981 G-5 Joan is semi-retired, now working part-time for her husband's computer consulting business. She learned to ride in 1974, got her first Guzzi T-3 in 1976 and put about 80,000 miles on it. Bought a new G-5 in 81, rode it 138,000 miles and still has it. Got her current Cal II in 94 and has put about 28,000 on that one, plus has a 82 Harley Sportster XLS as a noisy toy. Other interests include flying (licensed private pilot since 1966) and travel, especially on the bike. 5/5/99

Ow! Don't go for the No Pain, No Gain approach until the Doctor orders it. And then the more you push yourself to do the recommended therapy the better...but, I suppose you could over do it. At least you have a cute nurse

Mike, I think the posted image is password protected or something....we cannot see it. I see from the source you are pointing to http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43/capur...LK_GOOSE_EX.jpg