dlaing

Ah, now I understand why it rides more smoothly(for me atleast) with my wife on the rear.

How do you hop an evergreen? Do you grab on the rails and bunny hop, like a skateboard? I can see you going over the fallen tree tops, but even that seems like it is pushing it, and your under carriage would be seriously battered. Got pics of you hopping trees?

The snake offered Eve the Orange from the Tree... Don't give in to temptation, think Red and Green, and ride a Goose And don't forget, carrots are for eating Here is an eye test for all you carrot abstainers: If you can't read it, it is because you ain't gettin' enough.

It is a propiertary secret that I am holding for my soon to be published book, "V11 ECU for Dummies".

Ouch! Sometimes I think protective gear should look more like the Michelin man than dominatrix wear. American football shoulder pads should be mandated!!! Umh, maybe not, but they or motocross pads, may have saved you, and others, from alot of suffering. Best wishes for your healing well.

Theoretically, and most likely, getting a tuning link custom map, will remove the lean spot. What it cannot remove is too much ignition advance. (or too little) Even if you pay for the map and it still acts like it running too lean and you have to get something to modify the timing, the map will still be of value, as you can roughly copy the enhancements to the My15M or if you go with tuneboy, they have a utility for importing the PCIII map....so your investment on the dyno will not be completely lost. (was that a run on sentence ) Yes, you will get a better map if you dyno after modifying the timing. However, whether you dyno map before or after, either way you will get great improvement. But the money starts to add up....PCIII US$332, dyno tune ~US$200-500, and then if it is still not right, My15M AU$700, or TuneBoy, US$310(free shipping) Or your problem could be something else like the TPS is wrong, or you have a bad sensor, or whatever...

For the record, John T. of Dyno Solutions says "The units are the same for all years of V11 sports. The 15M ecu has not changed. Only the maps will be slightly different for the later bikes with the front crossover."

Yep. You can see in that picture that all the figs are gone, all wine is gone, and worst of all the tread on your rear tire is gone.

Another option: Contact Dyno Jet at www.powercommander.com or (800) 992-4993 You will probably get someone who knows or who can find out for you. There tech support is pretty good. I had mine repaired after the warranty had expired and it only cost me shipping....apparently because it was easy to repair.

Good question. A similar question was asked in this thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2964 But the answer was never disclosed. I say buy Wayne Macdonald's tuneboy or Cliff' Jeffries My15M ECU. Those Aussies are awesome for going through so much trouble for a bike that will yield small profits. And I don't think they will have any problem disclosing that their product will work for all model V11S, V11Lemans, cafe, tenni, scura, rosso, etc....but excluding Breva, Griso, MGS01, etc. Either that or contact Todd Eagan at Guzzitech as he seems to be the only one who can answer whether or not the same PCIII can work across all years. But from your question, it reads like you may be looking to buy one second hand. I don't think there is a difference between a 2002 and 2003, especially if your 2003 does not have the oxygen sensor. But Todd would know for sure...and possibly the people he contacted offline. There is no difference between 1999, 2000 and 2001.

I'd be upset. That may be fine for the racetrack, but not the real world. So, now I must retract my statement that sag does not effect stiffness. Because if the sag is too much, you will feel the bottoming on the bumper. I would decrease the sag from a third to a quarter, as you may need all the travel you can get, without topping out regularly. ...or better still, return the shock to have them put a shorter body with longer travel.

I thought you had to adapt something to hold the remote preload. Other shocks that need no rigging, are the ones with no remote resevoir. For example the basic hagon.

It is interesting, how the boys from Ulster appear to have team spirit to their terrorist activities. Even the recent bombings in London were a team effort. So, was the execution of 911. The US has a history of Individualism, with the Uni Bomber being the most famous terrorist since the Boston Tea Party. The guy who threatened to blow up the Washington monument was a solo act, and died alone. The mind set at the time of the Boston Tea Party probably never would have created a Uni-Bomber, but today society has changed. Rugged Individualism is heralded to the point where projects like FEMA have OBVIOUSLY not been taken seriously enough. We knew the response would be lousy. Durring my citiy's last disaster, response was pathetic to a series of destructive brush fires. The military chose not to fly air support to douse the flames, because Governor Davis did not request the military for assistance. This is a result of cover your ass bureaucracy, but the fact that nobody has fixed the broken system is routed in Individualism and the concept of everyman for themselves, rather than the it takes a village approach... That being said, I would suspect that in America, I don't think the left and right wing are drawn unequally towards team rather than individual sports. Perhaps the right wing is more drawn towards golf and American football while the left is drawn towards tennis and ultimate frisbee. So, it should not be a partisan issue to have tax payers pay for an emergency response system that works, right? And what it the answer in NI? more tennis and golf?

Ah, I suppose you mean Kyle who dissed them both pretty good throwing gasoline on their fiery temperments. Before they kissed and made up, I liked this entry Staedtler, If you enjoyed that thread, you'll love http://lists.topica.com/lists/MGNOC-SW/ Here is an excerpt: Post is titled: see you ... raise you ... It is a reply by Pierre to Jerry's posting an article of a Democrat abusing power, with an article of a Republican abusing power. I don't have time to keep up with them, but it can be amusing and people's blood occasionally boils. It is definitely worth signing up for, but use an email address that you can afford having spam sent to, and just use the web interface, unless you want to get involved in it.

Changing sag should not effect the stiffness. I'd be sure to start with the compression settings backed out and work your way in to what feels good. With that spring weight, you won't need much compression damping.

The answer lies somewhere back through 25 pages of posts I presume that Derek sells the uploaded tune for $150 and then charges several hundred dollars for gas-analysis and mapping on a dyno. If you buy the TuneBoy, or the Direct Link you can tweak your map yourself. With Tuneboy you can also load PCIII maps. And then if you go to Derek to refine the map, he won't have to charge the $150 or whatever he charges for tuneboy, as you would already have paid for it when you purchased the tuneboy or direct-link. Seeing as you have the twin-plugs, you could really benefit from the ability to map the timing. Anyone with pinging problems or high compression pistons could also benefit. The My15M, TuneBoy and TechnoResearch Direct-Link all can re-map the timing. The TuneBoy adds the ability to import PCIII maps and is the least expensive. But the My15M has other things going for it, that I hope to discover, like closed loop tuning with an O2 sensor. The Direct Link is made by people with what I suspect are close ties to Marelli. So, all have advantages. I hope to have a review ready before January....

Cool! Perhaps once I get my mods set, I'll set up an appointment with you. Does the ability to take advantage of the Direct-Link help reduce tuning time, and thus the price? EDIT disregard that question...I was mistaking Direct-Link for for Tuneboy's ability to use Tuning-Link, that automates the process for faster tunes. On a related note, I shelled out for the TuneBoy. Emma Macdonald of TuneBoy wrote me today, YeeHOOOOO! And to top it all off, Carl Allison just sent me his MY15M. So, I should be able to do a write up of both....but don't hold your breath, as it will take me a while to figure Cliff's unit out. Carl says some things still need to be done before it can be plug and play. Cliff, I'll be contacting you. Thanks Carl, Cliff, Wayne and Emma! Oh, and thanks to all that contributed to this thread, especially Derek.

Why did you post this? Wouldn't Ben A. vs. J Lo be more fun?!? Don't tell me that you are Jon?!!?! Dom Mastroserio and others had much more interesting things to say, but I suppose Jon and Ben did get into it pretty good, but never went much of anywhere with ideas. The Kurt V. article was good, but not concise enough for my lazy brain. I have to go read that label article again...looking at the labels is almost as good as drinking, but fewer calories

More evidence that Carl Allison is not like most people. (don't you love it when someone posts while you are still composing) Obviously, that bike is not going to out handle a Guzzi, and it would be no fun in a parking lot or going around 5MPH turns, but I wonder if it could out-handle a chopper on a twisty fast road

The Attachments Function allows you to upload directly from your computer. It is the quickest and easiest way to post images, but I prefer uploading to a free image file hosting site like, http://www.imageshack.us/ and then just posting the link to it by clicking on the "IMG" button that you will see when posting. The reason to use the free image server is because it reduces bandwidth useage and billing fees incured by our benevolent host, Jaap. I even put my avatar on imageshack since it probably gets hit thousands of times per week. It would be great if you could post some Le Mans racing photos! Welcome to the list!

The jury (in my head) is still out on whether or not Ohlins is the best. There is serious competition from the following, who all list our model bike. Wilbers HyperPro Hagon Penske Maxton may list our bike. Custom shocks that don't appear to be listed, but could work just fine are available from: Elka Works Performance BiTubo White Power and I am sure others...

I don't go over often, but I have never gotten Insurance despite recommendations from more seasoned travellers. It may be worth buying online before you go, so that you don't get ripped off. http://www.mexinsure.us/ http://www.motormexico.com/ http://www.rosaritobeachhotel.com/ is supposed to be pretty nice, but expensive for Baja. Hotel California, also in Rosarito, may the inspiration for an Eagles song, for all the wrong reasons, so don't be tempted...

Sorry, I am a lazy reader and missed that. Maybe if you had said City of Lost Angels, but fallen Angels may be more acurate. San Diego is culturally BORING but "nice" Who needs culture when we have the beach, sun, and some of the best Moto Guzzi Roads in the world. Besides, I get all my culture from V11LeMans.com

I get that feeling when I get out of Los Angeles

I have been using the light, and find it to be great stuff. I think the test to determine if it is the right stuff is to make mental notes of how it shifts at varying temperatures. First of all, Redline makes it run cooler, so for that reason alone, a lighter grade than what is specified would be more ideal, right? Theoretically this is correct, however, how much lighter is debateable, and so is correctness of the original specification of 80W90. So, if I lived in a cold rural environment like Wales, I would seriously consider the light weight, while Madrid in Summer time would beg for heavy weight. I primarily ride in mild to hot weather, but on rural roads where I am rarely stuck in conditions that would cause the engine or gearbox to overheat. So far with the oil, the shifting generally gets lighter and easier as the engine warms up. I have only noticed once, after climbing out of the Borrego Desert in 100+F weather, that the shifting seemed to get stiffer due to heat. If I was running dino gear lube, the shifting would have gotten worse many miles of desert sooner. The most noticeable difference is when the engine is cold. The gears shift with a soft firm snick. When warm, the snick is just a little lighter and crisper. So, I am very happy with the light weight and would not think of switching to heavy at this time of year. Perhaps in June, I'll give the Heavy weight a try. If it does not steal MPGs, I will stick with it. Or maybe ratchet and I can exchange rides to compare snicks