dlaing

Ditto on Tecate. Some fun roads lead to Tecate, and besides the Beer at the Tecate Brewery is FREE!!!! If you insist on Tia Juana, going in to Mexico is usually very fast. The long waits are coming back to the US. I would guess, the worst times to return are Friday after 4PM, Saturday evening, and Sunday after 4PM. Also any weekday morning is backed-up by commuters. Los Angeles is probably an even bigger worry. Even with lane splitting, bad traffic can cost you as much as three hours trying to cross LA. So avoid rush hours there.

Hey V50Man, we are still waiting for you to dyno test your bike, or Frankie Chilie, if he is reading this...

And now that I look at your chart, it looks like your engine is running very well. From what I understand, a lambda of 1 equals an A:F ratio of 14.7:1 while a lambda of 0.7 equals an air to fuel ratio of 11:1 So, in general you have some rich spots indicated by the dips.

That looks like a lot of fun. I think I am going to give TuneBoy a try. With a lambda sensor it could be much more valuable. Of course people seem to have varying opinions on O2 sensors. snipped from Wild Guzzi And Will Creedon, chip burner extraordinaire replied, The "ECU" thread argued about this to the point that few could tolerate. I think if you just remember that the correlation between performance and the lambda is subject to variables, you will do very well. Just be very patient and sample lots of data.

Is the breather hose going to the airbox leaking?

Here is some relevant updated info: Regarding the Direct-Link: It appears to lack some of the features in the diagnostic tool... Regarding TuneBoy: They still have not posted info about the Guzzi product, but I wrote them and they responded: I don't know if they will reduce the price until the diagnostic is ready. Regardless, it is cheaper the the the direct-link.

I think Brian was refering to plug wires being a solution to pinging. Regarding adjusting the advance, the only reasonable solutions I know of are Cliff's My15, some slick ECU that is inside of the tachometer from some company in Europe, or the performance software from Techno Research. Or the cheapest solution: TuneBoy has completed the Mapping software, that will adjust fuel and timing, but the diagnostic software is not ready as of July 11th. http://www.tuneboy.com.au/ but they don't list Guzzi...

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1301 But be sure to skim to the end for the best solutions. (The PVC pipe solution that I tried, did not work very well)

No, on a motorcycle you just don't want to have a servo jacking your throttle.

I suppose ECU stands for, Electronics Confuse Us.

And here is a good rant: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4245&hl= What I learned from it, is the like the above link says, the charger should not fall out of the 14.2 to 14.8V range. My understanding is that there is nothing wrong with giving it less than 14.2 V, but it won't fully charge without something approaching 14.8 Volts. The problem with the trickling, is that it may slow cook the battery, and if the battery was discharged too much, the trickle may never bring it to full capacity. An analogy might be that it is like trying to cook an egg in tepid water....it is going to rot before it cooks, and you would have been better off keeping it cool and fresh and then cooking in boiling water when needed. (But if the egg is fertilized may analogy goes to pot) Once a hawker is fully charged, it will maintain enough power to start for many months. But, after a Winter(two ++ months) it is better to boost it back to full charge before reinstalling. Although the battery should start the bike after sitting all Winter (Norway excluded), it does need more voltage than a standard battery to bring it back close to 100% charged. P.S. Nogbad, just make sure the neighbor isn't keeping her charged up for you. Which reminds me, didn't someone post that their father put their OE battery on a charger and toasted it???

I believe the Ohlins is the one specified on Ohlins' site for the V11S If you change to a bigger overall length the shaft will contact the swingarm. I estimate that a length of about 289mm will bind or contact....your mileage may vary. When I measured, I did not try turning the rear wheel to see if the bind point changed, but that is possible...so beware. And if you make the travel too long, from what I can tell, the triangulated part of the swing arm is just about to bottom out where it at the parallever link support. (Here is a link to a picture of it bottoming, http://img49.imageshack.us/img49/5382/bottoming0br.jpg )

I just measured and got 10 and 15/16 inches or 278mm. I suppose I could still be off by two millimeters. To measure more accurately I would need to put some long bolts of the proper diameter into the eyes. I don't remember where I got the 276 from

The odd thing is that it is not that far fetched. DVDs are cheaper if mailed to the customer than if the customer picks them up. Keg BEER can now be delivered for less than pumped fuel. AAA will deliver up to a gallon to me for FREE!(after annual fee...) Certainly if you had a 10,000 gallon tank at your house you could save some money getting it delivered.

And no speed trap cameras! I don't know how you can afford to drive cars. The average Californian driver gets maybe about 20 mpg and drives maybe 20,000 miles, consuming 1000 gallons of gas annually or about $3000 instead of $1500 per year in 1999. Somebody is getting rich. Of course apartment rents have about doubled in the same time, too, but our salaries have not. Meanwhile my bike is worth half of what I paid for it, despite the falling US dollar. I don't get it But on the bright side, now is a great time to buy a second Guzzi

I am interested in the stroke from the body to the bumper, and more importantly, the stroke from the the body to where it would bottom if there were no bumper. Of course the only way to truly accurately measure it is to remove the spring and bumper, but I'll bet you can get a pretty good measurement. "effective stroke" is a subjective term that makes it difficult to compare shocks, although "effective" is more "real" FWIW The White Power on the Sporti is 280mm eye to eye with a stroke of 64 total (or body to bottom with no bumper) and 56 effective. This can be roughly compared to the Sachs, which is about 276mm eye to eye with a stroke of 60mm total and has an unknown "effective" stroke, and the Ohlins, 286mm eye to eye, and with a 70mm total stroke and unknown effective. Thanks for the information and the great pictures!

Do not hit the throttle too hard with that gooooorgeous red head on the back! This bike is wheelie prone with one up, but two up is a circus act! But I'll bet it is a blast to ride, and at 50-65MPG you can afford to fix it when it breaks!

On Sunday near Mount Palomar, I refused to pay $3.89.9 for 91, so I paid $3.49.9 per gallon US, for 87octane....At 10¢ per mile, just for gas, the rest of the bike is looking cheaper and cheaper. Time for the gold plated pork chops and valve covers.

Another alternative to changing the gear oil would be to drain it, pass it through cheese cloth, let it sit over night to seperate the water from the oil, and put it back in, sans water. You might lose a little oil, but you saved the left over from the liter, for topping off, right?

That is pretty I did not know they could ship with red springs. If you could take some measurements, that would be appreciated. From the notes in the photo it looks like the overall eye to eye length is 286mm and the spring is 53/53-95-130. I am going to guess that the 95 indicates 95 Newtons per millimeter which translates to 543 pounds per inch.

oOWooooooooooo! My 2¢ opinion is that no matter how good the oil is, if water gets in, you should drain it. One of the alleged issues of our bike is that the vent is prone to water intrusion. I remember on my V65, I ran a line from the vent up the frame to prevent gear oil blow off....A similar thing could be rigged to our bikes, with the hose oriented to keep rain and road splatter out...and possibly with a fuel filter on it to keep sand and such out. All the same, pulling the drain plug to get rid of a small percentage of metal debree feels good, even if it is a small percentage. I love cleaning the magnet

See you at the Rally! One other point, as long as the filter is smaller in diameter, all you have to do is wedge in some cardboard or something to make it fit. If it is larger, that might be a problem. The fil3023 is just a little smaller than the OE.