dlaing

So, when are we going to liberate the torture camps? I know they are not slaves, but they are mostly innocent and not free. Scary thing is if we liberate them, the three that are really guilty will get out, or worse the innocent will get out and tell about the torture. Oh yah, that already happened, maybe they were the only innocents tortured and everyone else held is guilty. And besides, for a yank like me, liberating the torture camps might be treason, so I can't do it, or even advocate it, even if the real Spartacus would. The real spartacus would steal a boat from the Godless Catholic Cuban Communist Navy and liberate the torture camps!

Before this gets closed, I would like to apologize to the Danish Navy for mocking them. Sorry. But if push comes to shove, I am going to enlist with the Canadian Coast Guard.

HyperPro makes a rising rate spring for our Sachs, however I am concerned the spring rate is too heavy for the under 100KG riders. The European HyperPro may have more options than HyperProUSA. If you dare read through http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...opic=4213&st=75 you can see what we know about their springs. Here is the Readers Digest® version for the rear spring: They give it a low measurement of spring rate = 90.13 Nt/mm. = 9.190556 Kg/mm = 515.0929 lbs/inch and a high measurement of rate = 144.2 Nt/mm. = 14.70407 Kg/mm = 824.103 lbs/inch The low measurement is probably suitable for a 90KG rider, while the high measurement is probably suitable for a 150KG rider. The low measurement may or may not get sucked up by the preload and the high measurement, may or may not be even within the range of travel. So, we need a guinea pig. I put a 475#/inch spring on mine and suspect it is a little too light for my 210++ pounds. I had to set the preload on tight side to keep it from bottoming too easily. I think a progressive spring would be better, but I am thinking 450# after preload transitioning to 600# at the bottoming point. so the HyperPro numbers scare me, but they may not be bad, depending on how they measure the spring. The bike is alot more comfortable on the rear hits if I slide forward, so what I really like is the idea of a longer swingarm....or a seat that is comfortable when seated right up at the tank.

Welcome to the forum, Roofer! Do you have more details? What exactly are the symptoms? Bike is in neutral, clutch pulled in, kickstand is up and then when you hit the starter button...then does it make a click noise, or a clicking noise? Or does the starter turn the engine slowly? Or no noise. Does everything else work? Be sure to check headlight, tachometer, alternator light, tail light, brake light and especially the neutral light. Most starter problems are caused by a bad relay. (Especially on pre-2002 or so, bikes) It only has to be marginally bad to cause problems. The second most likely culprit (IMO) is the clutch switch.

This war could prove interesting. Here is a photo of the Danish Navy source: http://forsvaret.dk/SOK/Iframe/Wallpapers/

that sucks!

There might be something to that. My second rear bearing (before I figured out I needed a longer spacer) was made in China, and failed. I recollect I am now running one from Argentina and one from Hungary....both SKF of the same model number.

Hi, My name is Brad and I live in Orange County. I am a minority in occupied North Baja California. I was born a rich spoiled brat and I vote Republlican. I pay taxes that go to enrich dirty corporations that give kickbacks to politicians and the media. I am allowed to ride a motorcycle but the damn Liberals make me wear a helmet. All the money I make until mid July goes into tax shelters in the Cayman Islands. My last girlfriend said I was an ignorant zenophobe....whatever that is. Some of my families companies hire people from Mexico who don't have a pot to piss in. We give them good jobs, Bushes to piss in, and then I lobby to have them deported. 95% of my nation's conflicts in the past five years have involved conflicts based on lies in which many innocent and ignorant die for corporate greed or too fullfill Biblical prophesy. I am a persecuted Christian, because they try to stop tax payers from paying for my religious symbols maintainance and display on taxpayer owned lands. I believe in eliminating taxes that don't go to building up the military or providing corporate welfare. I think the environment is indestructible. I have no idea what what happened to that old rifle my grandfather gave me when I was 14, or what happened to the little girl with pigtails that laughed at me. I work hard to block Unions from infiltrating my places of employment because I want to protect my workers from half way decent wages. I tried to bid on Barnett Newman's "The Voice of Fire" at Sotheby's but the damn Socialist Canadian Government outbid me, and got it for 1.8 Million CDN, not 30Million as my Cousin Bob McKensie suggested, although those were 1990 dollars and the value of the painting has outperformed the stock market I love it when my corporations get tax breaks in Millions from just a few hundred thousand dollars in political donations. My corporate farms have squashed small farmers all over the country so they can get a 'real life'. My cousin Bob says Canada is the number one destination for fleeing terrorist (probably mostly from the IRA). So, I am going to lobby the Gubernator to invade Canada. I am not an angry white male, but I act like one when I go hunting Mexicans at the border. My name is Brad, and I am a spoiled American. Did I mention that I don't mind paying a hundred dollars to fill my humvee, as long as we reduce the tax on it?

I set mine to 39 clicks out....and counted 40 clicks of adjustability. So if you went in 15 clicks, just back it out till it stops, and then go in as many clicks as you want. The owners manual recommend ten clicks out, which would be 30 clicks in. I say 30 clicks out and ten clicks in is softer and better. I am pretty happy one click in and 39 out as I want as non-jarring a ride as I can get out of it.

It depends on where it is leaking from. If it is the shaft seal, it may not be very easy. The first thing to do is find out where the leak is coming from. Clean every seam you can get to. A digital camera aimed up and under after the crossover was off, helped me pinpoint it, after I needlessly sealed up the left side. But, the left side cover is easy and popping it open gave me a chance to check the pawl spring. The rear cover is a bit more difficult since you have to pull the rear swing arm. You may be able to just tighten the case bolts to stop the leak. If it is the inner-case, it is alot more work. When I had a leak, I did the left cover first, but it still leaked from the inner case, so I pulled the rear wheel and swing arm off, pulled the rear cover off, considered doing the inner case, chickened out and just tightened all the bolts holding the innercase tight, (a couple of the bolts were not very tight, so I had a chance that tightening them would stop the leak, but it was a gamble) sealed the rear cover with non hardening gasket cement,(no gaskets) put it all back together, prayed that the leak would stop, and it did. I am even running RedLine Shockproof Light synthetic, and no leaks!

Theoretically it is a good match because (Most) diesels don't have catalytic convertors or wet clutches, so they should contain the optimal additives for machines without wet clutches or catalytic convertors. Automobile oils add lower than ideal quantities of Phosphorus and Zinc. Motorcycle oils are expensive, and are not as slippery as diesel and automotive oils because of concerns that the wet clutch will slip. If you have a catalytic convertor, forget I ever mentioned it. The problem I have seen so far is that I have not seen diesel in xW50, usually it is 10W40 or lighter or it is a straight weight. Sorry, when I asked for synthetic diesel oil, I should have asked for synthetic diesel 20W50 to 5W50. I just read somewhere that Amsoil is not API certiified because it has too much Phosphorus or Zinc, so it is an excellent choice....but expensive. I am not sure what the difference between Amsoil for motorcycle and Amsoil for car is???? Mobil One V-Twin has a pretty good amount of phosphorus and zinc, as do many of the motorcycle synthetics. Pete wrote Friction Modifiers cause glazing, so that may be a good argument to stay away from automotive and diesel oils. Pitty since they are less expensive. Good thing oil is not going up in price as fast as Petrol!

Great answer Skeeve! Another thing that can cause carbon build up is going for too short of runs. The bike runs much richer for the first few miles, especially if the air is cold. And to make matters worse the carbon won't burn off until the engine is at a decent operating temperature. So if your commute to work is under half an hour, you may need to find a longer route, hopefully with some twisties. When you arrive late, just tell your boss that you are just trying to prevent carbon build-up. They should understand, otherwise you may need another job. And to risk sounding like a broken record, getting a PCIII and the bike dynotuned can help maintain the proper Air:Fuel ratio. If you ever look at a PCIII map for a stock Guzzi, you will notice that the stock ECU puts out both too much fuel in some places and too little in others. Before I knew that, I assumed it would just run too lean to pass emission testing.

FWIW my PCIII went out on me, but the symptoms were nothing like pinging. I sent it the maker, they updated the firmware and it has been fine ever since. A shift in your TPS output could certainly cause pinging that could be aggravated by the PCIII map. Of course the problem would be the TPS and not the PCIII, but disconnecting the PCIII could be a a clue. It is easy enough to disconnect the PCIII, so I say go for it. If it improves, the first thing to look at is whether or not the PCIII was zeroed. But yah, Ratchet is correct that it is much more likely to be bad fuel, judging by the presented evidence.

So, that is why BelfastGuzzi got away with making fun of Pete's helmet!

I think most of us have been running Premium, but after a few thousand miles, yes the carbon builds up, and yes some of us have gotten pinging. But we have never been sure it is related to Carbon build up. I did not think a difference of a few octane points would lead to carbon buildup on an engine that the manufacturer recommends 95 NO-RM minimum. I am not sure what 95 NO-RM means, but I'll bet the 91 R+M/2 that they serve up as Premium in California is a lower octane. A PCIII should keep your engine from running too rich. The general rule is to use the lowest octane rating that never causes pinging.

Ditto on it sounding like detonation. I suppose the cylinders were pretty hot after the run. If the cylinders are out of balance, it is more prone to detonation, because one cylinder is doing more of the work. Also, a PCIII can help. I just enriched mine 10 points where it was pinging, and so far so good. But the performance felt a little flat so, I'll have to try bringing it down to 5 points of enrichment and see if it still pings. I wish I had a laptop so I could do remap on the road side. Considering you have never had this problem, I can only guess something slipped a little. Maybe the TPS or throttle bodies are a little off, or the timing chain is stretching. I don't think mine ever pinged before 10,000 miles. You checked the valves, so that is eliminated as a LIKELY cause. I am not sure how to check the timing chain...

I may be up for volunteerin'... too early to commit, but looking forward to it! Great Poster!

It is strange why Guzzis sell better or worse in various places. NYC probably only has three V11s while the state of California probably has over a hundred! I guess it has something to do with marketing or the fact the bike NEEDS the open road! Certainly one would think Londoners and New Yorkers would be Guzzi savvy. Heck, there are probably less than ten V11Sports in Rome or Milan!!!

what risers did you use? Are they rubber mounted? Is the vibration about the same? thanks in advance!

http://www.mgnoc.com/happenings.htm has a blurb on their monthly meet. http://www.geocities.com/mgnoc_socal/Events.html used to post the date of their annual but there is no posting there now. But yah, drop in or call EPF.

FWIW here is my log: original rear Bridgestone replaced at 5240 miles original front Bridgestone replaced at about 6000 miles, a bit early because of cupping. rear Avon Azarro II lasted 5370 miles front Azarro II lasted 6450 miles rear Pirelli Dragon GTS lasted 5665 miles front Pirelli Dragon GTS lasted 6350 miles rear Contiforce lasted 3625 miles replaced early because of it promoting speed wobble. rear Metzeler Sportec lasted 3150 miles front Metzeler Sportec lasted 8100 miles rear Dunlop 220 lasted 3850 miles wore to the cords, doh! front Dunlop 208 installed at 26900miles rear Dunlop 208 installed at 27915 Note that I am finally beginning to grasp that I need to run at pretty high tire pressures. I was running about 34 front 36 rear, but am now at 36 front and 38 rear. Note that I could have gotten more miles out of all the front tires except the Metzeler. But having a front with plenty of tread is important for safety. The rear I push past the center wear indicator but replaced while there was still some center tread left on all the tires except the Dunlop 220 that does not have a center tread, so it threw my replacement system off. The Bridgestone front cupped very early and cannot be recommended. The Bridgestone rear gripped well and was stable and lasted well. The Avons lasted well but did not grip as well as others, but were otherwise excellent. The Pirellis were very good in every category, but made my bike turn a little to quickly. The Contiforce was very good in every category, but caused speed wobble at as low as 80MPH. The Metzelers felt alot like the Pirellis, but the rear felt a little slick and did not last long at all. The rear Dunlop 220 was great, very stable, and excellent grip but did not last long. I love the front D208, the best front tire that I have tried....but then again I switched to Ohlins forks at the same time, so my view is tainted, but the front feels more stable and grips better. When I put on the rear 208 I seemed to gain traction, over the D220, I boosted the air pressure to 38PSI and it seems fine. Also with the 208 I went back to 170/60(all but the Avon and Bridgestone rears were 160/60) which raised the rear up a little, and made the bike feel a little squirrley at highway speeds, but at 120mph it feels stable...weird...I should have stayed witht the 160/60. So far the 208s seem like the grippiest and the bike seems to corner better than ever, although my chickstrips are still HUGE (...Due to a lack of confidence, ever since I crashed when I skidded out the front Pirelli by hitting the front brake too hard while shifting my weight in anticipation of a turn....)

I like it, and even more than Monster Duck. I just don't like the headlights he chose. The OEM V11S or the Ducati headlight look nicer, but less trick, duh.

Is the statement that your Guzzi is faster 0 to 100 mph proof that you are high? Yah, I know the Cobra makes you go faster, but it cannot be THAT good. Here are some specs on the RC51 from MCNews 10/00 34.1MPG 117RWHP 71RWtorque wet weight 488lbs top speed 164 0 to 60 3.05 0 to 100 6.65 quartermile 10.61 @ 129.76mph 60 to 0 in 116.2 feet Compared to MCNews' test on 9/01 of a V11S TT 34.5 MPG 75.4 RWHP 60.8 RWtorque wet weight 524 lbs top speed 142 0 to 60 4.01 0 to 100 9.8 quartermile 12.0 @ 112.53mph 60 to 0 in 126 feet One thing that bugged me when I owned a Honda (500four) was that I was never happy at the legal speed limit. If owned an RC51 I'd probably kill myself doing double yellow passes. I hope you can maintain your sanity. Perhaps the narcotics help...just don't drink coffee and ride the thing.

dang! Too much testosterone on this list....even the anonymous. I don't get it, Guzzi Rallies have plenty of women...mostly spoken for, but plenty of women. And this list has had fewer than five women posters.