dlaing

You make it sound so easy. Can't I just pay someone to do it for me. I am trying to sucker JRT into it, and you are messing the whole thing up. So after all this, we are probably going to end up making that unsprung boat anchor even heavier....good grief I don't know where the local Metal-Mart is, probably next to the Wottalottacrap-Discount-Tyre-and-Pornography emporium in downtown Turdpoke! But I do know where the beer mart is, so I'll give twenty US bucks to the first person to ship me what Pete said. And just so you don't have to do the measuring, have it made 113.0mm. Thanks! Oh, and I just went to the best hardware store in SanDiego, Marshall's, and I couldn't find anything in steel that would make the grade. Their thick walled 1inch OD seamless steel was 1mm too small on the ID....DRAT! Otherwise, they had galvanized steel pipe, that looked even crappier than the OE spacer. Yah, Pete said the Metal-Mart, not the hardware store...

I hope hogjockey has not been waiting for us to finish the space shuttle plans...

Pete, Problem one is that people like me are too inept to measure ACCURATELY, and too cheap to pay $100 for a machinest to make a proper spacer out some overweight carbon steel. We have an opportunity here to get something lighter, stronger, and of the proper dimension. Yah each of us could go out and buy a thirty dollar micrometer, tear our wheel apart, measure, take the day off work to go bug the machinist who will take diddly long to order and cut a 1inch OD pipe with a 2.5mm wall, wait for the snow to fall and then get our bike back together. Or we could do what we are doing here, join forces, and come up with a superior spacer for less money and little down time. If we are going through the trouble of paying a machinist, we may as well have it made from a proper material and not the poxy crap used in the V1100 and possibly our bikes. If it is space shuttle quality alloy in an unsprung weight situation, than it will be all the more better. I may even be one of the one percenters that will go with the $100 bearings. After shipping and the labor of the project, it will only increase the cost 30%, but I will have the slickest bearings in town Regardless, the difference in price between steel and aluminum is negligible, assuming we can find the appropriate stock. From what you said, the material can be too weak and fail under the torque from the axle nut. That is one of our concerns (apparently not Guzzis) which is why we need feed back from someone with your expertise. I got scolded for using non-graded aluminum That is why we have to go through this to get it right. Apparently we don't have any aerospace engineers reading this that could say whether or not the alloy could hold up to the compressive forces...either that or they are maniacally laughing at us from behind their keyboards. So far we found something too thick and something too thin in aluminum. If I read your advice correctly, you suggest a decent quality steel 2.5mm wall thick. You are suggesting steel, right? I am assuming that because of the space shuttle comment. 2.5mm thick with 1inch OD stock will tight on the axle, but should do the trick with a good bevel job. Unless someone can say with authority that tempered aluminum alloy is fine, than maybe we should do what you recommend. I think we have accurately enough measured the distance to be 112.8,(possibly smaller) so 113.05 may be just what the Roper ordered Or if we go with an alloy, we may need a greater safety margin, as it may compress more. What the heck, we just need some material spec sheets that we can understand and then we can get this bloody space sh^ttlle off the ground!

Oh yah, Thang, aka hgravelpha@aol.com is our guzzi riding man with the material connection.

I believe you are correct....Atleast that was the case with my Marzocchi and Ohlins hollow axle retrofit. It is possible that later Marzocchi used the hollow axle and the two 6205 bearings. Man! GH and JRT did an awesome job shopping. Doesn't somebody on the list work for McMaster? Now, if we are all on a budget, it may make more sense to go with McMaster's part number 1968T37 However it may be too thin. But it is such super aircraft quality stuff, it should be strong enough. The axle is 20mm and the ID of the 1968T37 is just over 22mm. The 1968T37 is nearly half the price of the 1968T39 and the machining costs would be much lower. But is 2mm freeplay too much??? Is the pipe too thin?

Hmmm? I am not sure, but it might. The way I have been seeing it, is that if the spacer is just a tiny bit, too short, the inner races of the bearings will be drawn by the full force of the torqued axle nut out of alignment with the outer races. If the spacer is oh, say a millimeter too long, the inner races will remain stationary, and the outer races will more or less stay inline with the inner races. Lateral wheel forces being the exception, but lateral wheel forces are not avoidable. However, theoretically, if the spacer was spot on, the lateral wheel forces would be shared by the two bearings, simultaneously. But spot on may not exist in the real world. But maybe it is worth a shot to aim for it! If the spacer is say, a half inch too long, I could imagine the wheel shifting back and forth, unpredictably, rubbing against the brake pads, causing a hazard. I suspect you may have had a problem with the long spacer, because when you drove the bearing home, you likely damaged the bearing by forcing the inner and outer races out of alignment. I am just guessing, but I'll bet you drove it in by hammering on the outer race, possibly with a large socket to match the outer race. The inner and outer races should be driven in simultaneously. (Something I did not know, until Mike Stewart instructed me)

They work great in cars! I have NOT tried one on a bike.

I don't know???? I just hate the idea of a heavy steel tube. Yes, I am suggesting that there is some compression of spacer when axle nut is tightened. I wish I knew how much the materials compressed under torque. That is why I believe the spacer should be more than 112.8. It may be a non-issue on tempered Aluminum Alloy and mild steel or chromoly steel????? The races should only get catastrophically out of line if the spacer is too short or not square, but the C3 spec seems like good insurance for real world variations. A standard or C2 spec would last longer in an ideal world, that our bikes don't live in... The dimensions may be different, but so far all the posts indicate that the stock spacer is off by just a fraction of a millimeter. Or in the case of MG's newer 113.4 mm spacers, they may be too long...which is not all that bad. Much better than too short. Variations in dimensions, is another reason why JRT's bulk run should be longer than the 112.8. In my opinion, the outer race should not slop around too much, if the spacer is less than half a millimeter longer than flush. I am only guessing, but I bet a C spec is one hundredth of a millimeter, so a C3 spec would have 0.03mm of freeplay????? So I don't think the C3 spec will make up for your spacer being 0.25mm too short....Although it could be C3 might freeplay 0.30mm????And then you would be fine.

Hi Jason, It is part 6. The collars on it are removeable and apparently unnecessary. I like Baldini's comment on bevelling the edges to allow for easier axle insertion. I called the collars, spacers for the spacer.... The notches on mine, I presume, are to aid in extraction of the bearings. The notches are not necessary if we don't go with collars, as the spacer can be pushed to the side. The 7075 from what I read is the better choice. The 7068 just increases tensile strength and machining costs. But Temper is key. I suppose the harder the better.

I say, if you want an American muscle car, go modern or go pre-catalytic convertor....or better yet go both. Something like a 69 Camaro But the Monte Carlo may suit your personallity better.

In case he is lost, here is a map (YAY! I finally used that icon!) Man that guy is a trooper!!! Viva la flying DutchMan!

In my layman's opinion, bang on is good, but a fraction of a millimeter short of bang on will cause bearing failure. So, I believe it is better to error with too long a spacer. Gio measured 112.6 to 112.7 which is pretty close the 112.8 that you measured. I suppose if we are to make a bulk batch, we should error a little high with atleast a 112.9. The 113.4 seems to be a bit of over kill, and a little too much room for slop. If we go with steel, maybe 112.8 or a tiny bit more would be fine???? With T6 Aluminum Alloy, I think a higher number like 113 point zero or point one would be fine. Any other opinions? Great info! I was worried the spacer might get lost without a spacer's spacer, but upon removal of bearings, you are correct that it would have an advantage!!!

You are the man! I vote for 113.1mm. I think 113.00000 would be perfect, but better to err a little long. Or maybe the 113.2 is better as the torque may compress the spacer Heck, I don't know!?! But I don't like the idea of it being too loose. The inner diameter should be greater than 20mm, I vote for 21mm. Any other votes, opinions, etc.? The outer diameter is not too critical. I say one inch or 25-26mm. And then there is the spacer that more or less centers the spacer when the axle is removed. Mine are inside my wheel, so I don't know their measurement. FWIW the 6204 is 20x47x14 (which is why the ID of the spacer must be atleast 20mm, but too tight and getting the axle through will be a real big pain, too loose and you won't get even pressure on the bearings) The OD can go right up, but not past the rubber seal. It might be a good idea to maximize that number. If someone could measure??? Here is the stock spacer, without spacer spacers...

So, which is correct, 04 23 51 01 or 04 23 52 01 ? EDIT sorry, I re-read the posts. So, 04 23 51 01 is the correct one

generic pipe stock...but the heaviest gauge on the rack at Marshall's. The good news is it may be soft enough to make up for my lack of squareness But seriously, I guess I need help. I suppose I need to pay some machinist a hundred bucks for something for me to mash up next time I pull a bearing... Or, if I actually find the -2srh I may never need to pull a bearing again! Dang these bikes are either expensive or you need a lathe, a mill, welding torches, forges, and the luck of Rambo under fire! Next time anyone says, "just make a spacer for it" I am going to launch into a hideous tirade! So, where can you get 1inch OD T6 or T8 aluminum pipe of the appropriate gauge? I suppose drilled rod would be even better. I guess a machinist could find something proper... Any advice on where to go to find a machinist? Joe Kenny? Mike Stewart, I know you have the ability. Feel up to making a lousy buck? Maybe I will do a run of ten and sell them for small profit.

aluminum...

FWIW if you have the open airbox lid, your bike will be loud. If that is the case, then the problem may not be your mufflers. Another solution is to keep the mufflers, but put a restrictor in it. (repacking should be tried first to avoid power loss.) I think you can buy something called a db eater But the stock mufflers have a nice sound, too.

And they are cheap enough that you can replace them every valve adjustment For what it is worth, here are some cross refs that MAY work (double check that the heat range is correct): NGK iridium BPR6EIX NGK Double Platinum PGR6B NGK GP platinum BPR6EG ND iridium IW20 Splitfire Platinum TP6C Champion RN9YC ND W20EPR-U ND W20EXR-U from: http://www.sparkplugs.com/ Also, Bosch WR 7 DC from http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~pbegley/ngk1.htm

Yah, almost sounds like a clutch coming apart. You probably want to truck it to the dealer. Does the warranty include towing or road side?

Having just spent $40+ on a pair of wheel bearings, I was not rushing out to buy C3s, but this thread has left me concerned that bearing seizure is something to be concerned about. Brian Robson posted that he had replaced his bearings and then had the inner bevel axle bearing seize up on him. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...topic=4979&st=0 Of course this bearing runs hotter than the wheel bearings(unless your rear brake is dragging) But it is possible that Brian fitted standard bearings just before the seizure. Brian, if you are reading, let us know, please. My other concern is that I made my spacer with a hand held pipe cutter, so it is not perfectly square. It is square enough that torquing the axle nut did not restrict wheel movement. But just the same, it is all the more reason to switch to C3s and replace the spacer. Not locking up and crashing is key.

Are you teasing us? What is the secret? A raw steak vacuum packed in antiseptic? I tried adding Gel, but it got too hot. I tried sculpting, but the foam got too thin. My options were then to start with a new block of foam, and new vinyl, or to get a Rich Maund or a Corbin. I went with the Corbin, which is much better on the butt than stock, but it slopes down too much and transmits more vibration. I might try some sheep with a foam ramp to keep me from sliding forward. I also tried tilting the rear subframe back about 1mm, (boring the mount poin with a dremel) but that did not noticeably help the seat angle. So what is the secret? Neoprene, latex foam, Tempurpedic® foam, urethane foam? Gel? A white seat would be butt ugly, but would stay cooler in the sun. I might consider gel, if I went with a brighter cover....maybe red or silver??? The black vinyl actually got harder from getting cooked by the heat of the gel. I think Rich Maund insulates his gel with a layer of foam. EDIT I took to long to post. Yah, what Ratchet and SoloNH said

From the last link, somebody posted this company: http://www.dynaroll.com/catalog/6000series.htm It took me a few tries to get to there web page

OK, so now we ideally need xxxx-2rsh C3 Anyone know a source? Oh, and I found this on a BritBike Forum http://www.britbike.com/ubb/cgi-bin/ultima...y;f=10;t=003265

I believe if you have the solid axle, one bearing is 6304-2rs1 and the other is 6205-2rs1. I kind of like the idea of going with the low friction ones to make our bikes faster and more efficient. I find it pathetic that my car goes down hill faster in third gear with no throttle and air-conditioning on, than my bike does with the clutch pulled in and me in a tuck position. Maybe lower friction bearings could make a difference But then again, the bearings are not getting hot from the friction, so the friction advantage might only benefit a bicycle or something that relies heavily on minimal friction. I love Google! If you want to go to a Kawasaki dealer, http://www.gear4bikes.com/acatalog/Kawasak..._Bearings1.html Has a cross ref for 6204 6304 and 6205

http://www.ebatmus.com do a search there for 6204-2rsh and 6205-2rsh They have C2 and non-C2 The price is a lot less than I paid NAPA for the inferior 6204/5-2rsj that are SKF 6204-2rs1 and 6205-2rs1. I was not prepared and needed them same day, otherwise I would have gone mail order through ebatmus. Let us know if their service is any good if you go with them. Who knows, they may not like selling small orders. EDIT having just said that the -2rs1 is inferior to the -2rsh, I noticed the -2rs1 costs more money!