dlaing

Your living it the wrong Hollywood, Cowboy. But I guess you are right about the speeling. It should be troubleshooting. Learn something new, everyday.

The RSI is old technology, which is what we have OEM. The RSL is low friction. The RSH is better sealing. To keep out water, salt, etc. http://www.skf.com/files/152471.pdf At NAPA a 2RSJ just means a double sealed SKF RSI bearing.

Thanks Al! I think we should all go join ST.net and Democratically rule by superior numbers. Apparently the Ducatis still have the lead... Did I mention they give out free Capuccino to Guzzi owners? PS Welcome Dr. Gil. to the Guzzi Universe!

...also good for standing on hot asphalt for hours.

These might be good boots for those with short legs...

Your settings sound fine. You can test for air leaks by spraying something volatile around the throttle body. I am not sure what is best. You don't want to damage the rubber or paint in the area. Some recommend WD-40

You will want to be sure to check your wheel bearings. Many have too short of a spacer, causing premature bearing failure, which I imagine may cause brakes to rub, get hot, seize, crash, etc.

Mine leaked after the recall. I just spent three weeks fixing it(I am very slow and was waiting for a shock spring) But the leak is not completely fixed... First I pulled the side cover off, checked the innards because it was not shifting properly, now it is better after adjusting the screw) Cleaned the case exterior. Resealed the side cover. Retorqued the rear case with rear wheel off for better access. Re-filled with Red line shock proof light. Let sit over night.... Drat! it leaked!, but now I could pin point that it was leaking from the left side of the inner case. I then pulled the rear case off (no need to pull gearbox, but I did have to pull the swing arm, which needed a good lubing anyway.) Once the rear case was off, I chickened out on pulling the inner-case, but I discovered a few of the bolts needed torquing. Especially the ones near the leak. So, I torqued them tight, re-sealed the rear case. Filled with oil. Let sit over night... And it still leaked, but five to ten times less. Redline heavy weight will be used if the leak proves to be bad. So, you might not need to pull the gearbox. I don't know if I would have to pull it to get to the inner case. Does anyone know?

Durring my gearbox reseal and shock spring replacement, I may have fixed my pinging. There is now pinging only at 5000rpm and WOT. But I did too many things to know what fixed it. Here are the things that may have fixed it. Cleaned BMC air filter. (this should not fix it, unless I over oiled it) Tightened hose clamps on both sides of throttle bodies. (One going to the left side of airbox was loose enough to leak) Rebalanced TBs (I don't think this fixed it, because they were balanced before...) Reset air bypass screws to 0.5 turns out ( Why did I have them set to 1.5 turns? Probably I got mislead by the wrong specs along time ago...or when tuning one day the TBs may have balanced better...or I am just a stupid ) Anyway, the bike has never run better! FWIW 27,300miles I am about due for a valve adjustment. I run the valves .15/.20 TPS is 170mV with engine not running, everything disconnected. Mistral muffler and FBF airbox kit. PCIII with mistral map from CD. I still need to kill the last remnance of pinging. The PCIII should take care of it...

Just use new crush washers and you will have no leaks.

So, I finally got the bike together. The leak is 70 - 90% better ( I popped the back cover off, and tightened all allen heads I could find.) I had set the adjuster screw to balance the ratchet right in between upshift failure and downshift failure. The result is flawless up-shifts, but down-shifts are a little dodgy if I don't go through the gears. The reason, I surmise, is that the weight of the shift lever is pushing the ratchet in the direction of a down-shift so that the ratchet does not always engage after a down-shift. It looks like I will be following Ouiji's lead and adjusting blindly with a closed box. (the other solution would be to put a counter weight to neutralize the weight ot the lever. I now have a pretty good idea how it works, so I am confident that it will shift better than ever!

Raceco is .20/25mm or .008 - .010" http://www.raceco.com/tech.html#Anchor-Tappet-6296 I think I'll have to do some experimenting!

Personally, I don't trust the factory, So, I would try to go with 700 miles, but do try to squeeze in as many 20 - 50 mile runs as you can between now and the first service. In my opinion the oil change, the valve adjustment, throttle body balance, and checking for loose bolts are the most critical and probably should be done at 500 - 750 miles anyway.

I just regreased mine. The old grease was brown from rust...In Sunny San Diego That Marine Grease sounds like a good idea I also replaced the two wheel bearings and made a bearing spacer out of 1inch OD aluminum pipe. My concern with using aluminum is that when I next have to drive out a bearing, it will give more than the steel. To center the spacer from the inner walls of the wheel I bought three fat O-rings. Two of them sandwiched the original spacer's spacer, the other I put at the other end, just to make sure it does not get lost, but now that it is tight, that should not be an issue. The original spacer was less than half a millimeter too short from flush. : My new aluminum spacer is somewhere between a millimeter and half a millimeter longer than flush. I guess that is good as it will probably mush down a little under torque I am now on my third brake side wheel bearing. I hope this will make it last! Anyway, because of the aluminum, I now have less unsprung weight!!! Back to the garage, Three weeks with no riding!!!

Fascinating! Not at all what I would predict. I wonder if you might get even better mileage at the larger RaceCo spec? Or doing different spec for intake and exhaust, like maybe Intake to US and Exhaust to RaceCo or vice versa???? But I would not dare run my exhaust at US spec.... Where is your PCIII map from?

Did it take 3 and a half weeks? I know you were not it in a hurry, but is that their standard delivery time? Good to hear it was all good

Lex recently posted something about the regulator can only vary it by something like 10% in either direction. Another potential culprit could be the bearings or brakes, especially the rear brake is known to stick. Glad you are trying to keep the bike!

The bearing is 6204 sealed bearing with dimensions of 20x47x14 NAPA part number is 6204-2RSJ SKF 6204-2RSI or SKF 6204-2RSH or SKF 6204-2RSL The SKF 6204-2RSL is for lower friction The SKF 6204-2RS is for better seal The SKF 6204-2RSI may be outdated, but is probably most common. I think the NAPA is an SKF 6204-2RSI Anybody know how to get the bearing out???

Here is another option, http://www.maxtonsuspension.co.uk/ 400-480 UK Pounds built to your needs. BigJ posted about it.

Very reasonable price for a high quality shock!

All you have to do is add http:// and than it becomes a link. If you use the button you get to change the name, so you can name the link something like www.Staedtlerandtx'ssidebuisness,com but it will go to www.xxx.com...unless you have your child protection software running http://www.maxtonsuspension.co.uk

Ahem! You mean Imperial gallons are larger than real ones. Irregardless,(is that an Americanism, or do the Brits mistakenly misspeak, too.) if you are getting less than 30MPG, something is wrong. Unless you are going on 10 kilomile trips in 10 degree Celciheit weather.

FWIW I'll betcha Guzzi's Lawyers had them put those on, not to catch the grease, but to catch the shaft when the U-joint comes apart. True, the swingarm and Pork Chops add some protection, but ouch! I can just imagine it coming apart without those guards in place! Yah, only one in 10 Million Guzzi miles might be effected by this, but you might end up dead if you are the chosen one. That being said, if I was racing, I sure would take off the rear guard to reduce unsprung weight. But in racing you have a pit stop. In touring I have learned to ignore noises and vibration, thinking oh, it is just the road surface or more Guzzi "character"...not wise. For touring, I'll keep them on....unless your pics just look waaaayyyy toooooo cool, and I am sure they will be temptingly cool looking

Drat! Now you tell me! I just sealed up my gearbox a few hours ago....The interior paint job was gorgeous until I used gasket remover on it. Maybe if I sell my Manhole Covers on eBay, I can get enough money to pay for someone to overhaul the gearbox properly

You can get a digital copy of the manual here: http://www.angelfire.com/weird2/v11/ But I don't think it has torque specs