dlaing

There was a thread a while ago that suggested the gear oil level actually rose due to water getting in the vent. I think the solution was put a hose on the breather or fix the rear fender so that it actually works. I think the pulverized metal is normal. Flakes would not be. I recommend putting in some cheap gear oil, go for a hundred mile ride, drain it, and put in some good oil. I was thinking of epoxy-ing a powerful magnet to the bottom exterior of the gear box, to help keep the crud out of the gears. Assuming aluminum will not shield the magnetism. Plus it may help trigger green lights

Very nice, Martin! Joe, don't listen to JRT, I think he's been setting up his mufflers like mine But the point about experimentation being the answer is what you are left with. Unless someone tuning links a bike with both configurations, we will never know for sure. But I'll bet it is based on some truth, as nobody in their right mind would add a runner if it did not do anything beneficial. But if you have seen Jaap's dyno chart you will notice that he got more tested power out of Mistral crossovers than anyone, so he must be doing something right. Most muffler and intake changes just move the power around, so you may gain some high end and lose some low end, or verse-vice-versa....no big deal. As Clint said, " If you want a guarantee, buy a toaster." -- (The Rookie, 1990)

Very, interesting, Carl! Here is a diagram of the WP That 90N/mm implies that it is a 515#/inch spring. It is somewhere between the Ohlins and the Sachs for length. It may just need less pre-load and compression damping. I have to hop on a Sporti and check it out

QUOTE(guzziownr @ Jul 3 2005, 08:32 Here is a selection from airtech: www.airtech-streamlining.com But this is what I used: [url=http://omarsdtr.com/fairings.html) http://omarsdtr.com/fairings.html[/url]The 8" opening fits the Bosch headlight perfectly. Cheap? No. $159 with roll your own hardware. I still like it and plan to color match it in the future. DW 55474[/snapback] Cool, I liked this one from Omars Before I crashed, I had a BMWR90S fairing from Airtech. They are not cheap either, but do excellent work.(Very light and strong). JRT has a how to on his version somewhere...

So, I took some measurements and from what I can tell, the triangulated part of the swing arm is just about to bottom out where it at the parallever link support. (Here is a link to a picture of it bottoming, http://img49.imageshack.us/img49/5382/bottoming0br.jpg ) So, I would not extend the maximum travel in the compression direction, one iota. And you might not want to cut down your bottoming rubber, as I did... Maybe that is why some of the Sachs lower eyes break off...because of the asymetrical impact when bottoming. As for the extension direction I would not go any further than the 286mm that Ohlins specified. I could not measure the angle, but the shaft would bind at what I measured to be 289mm. I did not try turning the rear wheel to see if the bind point changed, but that is possible...so beware. I know that when Mike Stewart ordered his Penske, they shipped it to him such that It was too short or too long...I forget which. But they fixed it for him at no charge, of course... So, the bottom line is if you order a custom shock, make sure that it is no longer than the Ohlins, and that the combination of length minus travel is no less than the Ohlins or Sachs. That is to say 286 - 70 or 276 - 60, ie. the minimum compressed length is at least 216mm. If I order a custom dimensioned shock, I'll ask for something like 285mm long and 69mm travel. But, shock body length choices may be limited...So, I might end up with 284/68,283/67,282/66,281/65,280/64,279/63,278/62,277/61,276/60,etc. For now, I'll try the Sachs with the 475# spring. I did not go for a higher rate because the high speed compression damping is so firm on the Sachs. I'll post the sag numbers... Here are links showing the angle of the shaft bottomed out http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/8532/compangle9hf.jpg And fully extended to the maximum length of the Sachs shock http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/3082/extangle8np.jpg

Here is another option. http://www.tpoparts.com/catalog/product_in...?products_id=46 TPO Dragons, made from MSD magnetic suppression wires. I think they are 8.5mm of engineering overkill. Thanks for posting the question. You made me get off my butt and find where I had seen these, and order them. Someone else used to sell the MSD on eBay custom fit for our bike but I could not find them...or maybe it was the same company

Sorry, I don't mean to jinx you. I have fond memories of fixing electrical problems, in the dark without a flashlight,on the side of I87 going from NYC to Montreal on my V65. The V11 is a much more reliable machine. I am sure you have the improved relays, made sure your fuel hoses are not hitting the cooling fins, all the bolts are tight, etc. Besides, you will be heading away from the Bermuda Triangle....unless you head towards southern Nova Scotia...

Ouiji Board® says, Y-O-U-F-O-R-G-O-T-T-H-E-D-A-M-N-"Good Bye"

It has to be loose on the pawl when activated. I tightens when you either upshift or downshift, sorry, don't remember. I believe you should feel the binding if it is present. You will certainly be able to see a broken spring. I found it was difficult not to be 100% certain. Oh, and in case you missed it in the instructions, you only need to remove the 5mm allen heads to remove the plate.(And remove the starter, and the shift linkage)But you don't have to remove the hex nut, the acorn nut, the idle sensor, or the little shift lever(if you disconnected the linkage)

...And for the same reason, when you re-connect the battery - connect the Positive[/b] terminal first. The thing to remember is that handling the Positive is much safer when Negative Ground is disconnected. There is a lot of metal around the positive. It probably would be a good idea to cover it, especiallyt the ECU, when messing with the battery. The biggest problem I have had is when you disconnect the Negative lines, keeping the wires tucked away so that they don't bounce back and risk a short. I agree with Carl, you probably did not fry anything.

I am having trouble posting, I keep having to re-try...I thought it was a DNS problem, but maybe it is cookies... I use this website to upload files. http://img83.echo.cx/index.php It is free, and keeps Jaap's bandwidth and disk space down.

SORRY, I blew it! Eye to Eye is about 276mm on the Sachs. I had gone to this thread, http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4870&hl= and read that the White Power Shock was 280mm and that the Sachs was 2cm shorter. Still the Ohlins is a centimeter longer and has a centimeter more shock travel. 1cm shock travel is about 16-17mm of axle movement. If the ride height is too high, you could always increase the sag. I want to do some testing with swing arm movement to determine the maximum travel.

Notice the lighting on the Wilbers and HyperPro are similar and other features are similar. I suspect they are owned by the same company or share a common marketer. If anybody has more information about available shocks, please add it. Or corrections! I am kind of guessing at what countries these are made in....They could be made in Antarctica for all I know. I am particularlily interested in free and static sag numbers that you get, spring rate, travel and eye to eye length.

Other companies that list a shock for our bike are: Wilbers (German) with adjustable Rebound Damping and High and Low speed Compression Damping for about $775, if you want remote preload, add $200. If you don't want Compression adustability it is only $495. Hyperpro (Dutch)offers a $499 model without compression damping or a $799 model with high and low speed compression damping and rebound damping. Options include gold nitrit rod $100, length adjustment $100, and remote preload adjustment $200, choice of progressive or non-progressive spring. Hagon (U.K.)is another choice. They start at $375 US for a stock shock. $435 if you want a heavy duty spring and valving. If you want remote preload add $160 Maxton makes very nice shocks Other shocks to consider that do not list our bike are: WP aka White Power(Dutch) $699 from LE with three way damping Penske (USA)Priced similar to Ohlins(Sweden) Elka (Canada)Priced similar to Ohlins Works Performance (USA)Priced similar to Wilbers and HyperPro. BiTubo (Italy) Our bike is not listed but, they have been fitted on some Ghezzi and Brians and they list 1999 V1100 Sport The White Power and Penske have definitely been made to work on our bikes. I am pretty sure the Elka, Bitubo and Works could be made to work.

The first option for a shock replacement is the Öhlins shock absorber Part No. MG 127 Type 46HRCS Length 286 mm Stroke 70 mm • Type 46PRC with hose mounted reservoir, easy to fit where it is easy to reach. • Fully adjustable single shock absorber. • Improved cooling gives more consistent damping and longer damper life. • Features compression, rebound and hydraulic pre-load adjuster. Price, about $850 US I am wondering if it is available in a 46HRX model so that one could get High and Low speed compression???? They don't list it, but they may be able to build it???

This is a work in progress. I have done some research on options, but this is what I'll post today. The Guzzi OEM Sachs shock. The manual mentioned some were equipt with White Power, but that does not seem to be the case. Here is the shock with critical measurements for those that want to make a similar custom shock. Eye to Eye length is about 276mm (Sorry, I initially wrote 260mm)EDIT I just re-measured and got 278mm...sorry, again. And Ratchethack says it is 280mm, so my measurement is off, his measurement is off, r our shocks are slightly different. Travel is about 60mm The Eyes are a little over 12mm so that a 12mm bolt may be inserted The face to face thickness of the Eyes is just under 22mm The Spring length out of the shock is about 165mm and its inner diameter is just under 57mm. The fitting for the ID of the spring are 56mm. The spring must be compressed to fit on to the shock. I am ordering a 6 inch HyperCoil 2.25inch 475#/inch spring that I hope will fit without the need of compressing. EDIT It slid in perfectly without compressing it, and snugged right up with ten turns of the preload adjuster. Now I just hope I can add enough preload.... EDIT NUMBER TWO: added preload till I got sag of about 5mm/36mm. This is NOT what I wanted. I was aiming more for 5mm/30mm, and it bottoms so easily that I think 5mm/25mm may be what is needed. I am guessing a 550# to 625# spring is what is needed.... Thank You Ratchethack for catching my error on the shock to wheel travel ratio! I mis-measured 1:1.66 when it is closer to 1:2 EDIT NUMBER THREE: Thank you Ratchethack once again for helping me get the preload right. My measurements in EDIT TWO were wrong. Now I am at 5mm/30mm....time to ride! EDIT FOUR: Went for a ride....ahhhh, that is more like it. Still not plush like other bikes, but a definite improvement for my weight. EDIT FIVE: Just to clarify, I measured sag, in jeans and tee shirt, probably at about 215#. FWIW, the fuel tank was down about 2 gallons from full. The result is just about what I want. (5mm bike only and 30mm bike and rider) I suppose if I had my leathers and helmet on and a full tank of gas, the sag would be greater. If I were to go with a heavier or lighter spring, I would go heavier. I think the 475# spring is about perfect for my weight for touring. But I am more of moderate paced sport rider and if I were to order again, I think I would get the 500# spring. The other possible issue is the ID of the spring is just a little bigger, so the spring may not center perfectly. But the OEM was a little loose, too. I suppose something could be machined... The hose is about 455mm long tip to tip. The eye to eye measurement would be a little less.

vibration is supposed to help bones grow/heal so, a LeMans is just what the Dr. ordered The Guzzi is the best bike in the world for people who like to wrench. In fact it is so enjoyable to wrench on that people should pay us for such a privelege. Self adjusting valves was the dumbest thing Guzzi ever did. And to ride a Guzzi is sublime.

It is 10mm(about 13/32" (FYI: Half inch and 12mm are too big))....I could not find them in the autoparts store, so went all the way to the guzzi dealer. It would be nice to get a six pack of them.

I traced the two required wires back towards the ECU and spliced and soldered in a pair of wires with female spade connectors: I keep them wrapped with electrical tape(not shown) to reduce the chance of them shorting or drowning in water.

He is saying "Shut the F@CK Up!", right? I'll save this one for a rainy day when I am ready to get fired. On the other topic: If you don't ride a Guzzi, you are stupid or ignorant. Just kidding...

Did you get a custom spring and valving for the Hagon, or did you just go with what they stocked? I suppose the sag numbers are good after you adjusted the preload. The Hagon is cheaper, and the spring is RED! But yah, nothing would compare to a good shock like the Ohlins, Wilbers, HyperPro, Elka, Penske, Works, etc. I guess you get what you pay for, more or less.

Is headshake not an issue? Or did you resolve the headshake?

...and then some! Yep, Todd is a career motorcyclist, probably one of the top three fastest in the world on a Guzzi Jackal, and he knows alot about Guzzis, and alot about suspension....more than you or I will ever need to know. Years ago, Computrack resprung and valved JohnT's Marzocchi Forks for Todd to put on his Jackal. Todd borrowed my bike to test the springs before he went through the trouble of making them fit his Jackal. Unfortunately, we discovered that John T's forks were threaded for the axle and mine clamped the axle...so, my bike did not help him much. We did notice that the computrack shocks felt totally different when we pushed down on them. I am not sure how he progressed from there, but he eventually got it dialled in for the Jackal. Not to many Jackals with upside down forks. Because Todd is a racer, I suspected he might be down on the idea of progressive springs, but he is a smart guy, and open minded enough to choose a Guzzi over a Hayabusa for his daily ride, and probably open minded enough to see the value of a progressive spring for the type of riding we do.

If you are not using synthetic, you may wish to. Do you find it mis-shifts with the engine warm or cold. If only when hot, it could indicate the oil is too thin and vice-versa if when cold. Other people get better shifting after cleaning the shifter linage.

Maybe the HyperPro is what you want For my money, HyperPro fork springs are too progressive, but that I am only guessing. The biggest problem I had with HyperPro is that the rear spring is too firm. Maybe the front is not bad. In the argument of progressive vs. linear, the Wilbers seems to be a good compromise. Yes if it was for my weight, I would want it a little heavier. Maybe, 8.0 N/mm start rate, and 11.0 N/mm end rate. But for your weight, I think the 7.0 N/mm start rate, and 10.0 N/mm end rate my be perfect. What are your sag numbers now?