dlaing

I am not sure if I got it right, but this may indicate the effects or preload, roughly... Keep in mind that as you add preload the lines in the blue green field remain parallel. The black line (EDIT, I mean gray line) is supposed to represent Guzzi stock. And for comparison, if pre-load was added to the other curves, they would rise vertically.

I think you will find that the spring rate is perfect for your weight. I seem to remember someone saying the stock spring was somewhere around a 0.6-0.7 Kg/mm. Does anyone know for sure? In any case the starting point for the spring is roughly the same as stock or just a little firmer, but as you compress it, you will be into some seriously firm territory. If you add pre-load, you should be able to meet your objective.

I get 39.97302 lb./in. start rate and 57.10432 lb./in end rate, per spring. So, for two springs, that would be roughly 80lbs per inch rising to 114 lbs per inch. Ideal sag is (according to Ohlins) Without rider: Rear: 5-15 mm (R1-R2) Front: 25-30 mm (F1-F2) With rider: Rear: 30-40 mm (R1-R3) Front: 35-50 mm (F1-F3) But keep in mind, with a progressive spring proper sag for the fork is probably more like one inch bike only and two inches bike with rider. When you are on the bike, you are probably putting 60- 80lbs over the front wheel, so the sag should be just about right after you set the preload.

SWWEEEEET! It sounds like Wilbers has there act together. The spring should progress from the about the softness of stock to what the 225# plus riders are using with a straight rate....assuming the measurements fall within the range of travel... This should put you right in the swwwweeeeet spot! The oil rate sounds right as you need something a little thinner to reduce high speed compression. Perhaps 5W would be even bettter. As for the fluid height, want to borrow my Marz for some fluid level effect tests?

Here is another option: Hagon M67033 $375 or $435(US)with custom spring and valving.(not sure how custom) USA http://www.davequinnmotorcycles.com/cgi-bi...MONOSHOCKS.html UK http://www.hagon-shocks.co.uk/HagMono.htm It is a little limited in adjustability, but the price is excellent!....And the spring is RED!!!

hmmmm?....and run the bike on hemp oil!

For about $500 you could probably get a shock with no remote resevoir, or compression damping. But with rebound damping and preload. Wilbers in Germany offers model 640-519-00 for 429,Euro and 641-519-00 with remote resevoir and high/Low compression damping 649, Euro I believe that is the same that Todd advertises. If you can get the shock measurements Works performance Shocks can build just about anything. For starters the measurements are 276mm eye to eye. I think the travel is 60mm or 65 mm, but I am not sure. I have a new spring on order for my Sachs of which I have two, because I wanted to reduce down time. When it gets here the original with 27,000 could be yours for $100. It is well battered around the preload rings. Unless you weigh 150#s or less the stock spring under sprung. I had mine set to zero static sag and about 3/4 inch of total sag and it would still bottom like crazy. I am about 210lbs+++ Are you sure your shock is shot and not just under sprung? Does changing the rebound damping from minimum to maximum do nothing? I don't know if Lindemann Engineering rebuild Sachs, but they re-done the valving and spring for a couple of people on the list. If it needs new seals you may be out of luck for a rebuild....but you could ask them.

Come on Enzo, I'll show you mine: I am gonna get them ceramic coated and wrapped so I won't have to keep checking in the hospital with second degree burns.

Very well said Putt-Meister! I was not sure my writing was clear. Ratchethack, you would think that the slot lined up with the lobe....but no. To free the lock nut from the adjuster screw I had to back the nut and aduster screw out to the limit of the adjuster screw, which locked at the end of its travel so that the lock nut would unlock from the position it was stuck or glued in. Also, going deeply in or out seems to make no difference. Be careful. I could be overlooking something. If you never mis-shift don't mess with it. If you mis-shift both up and down-shifts, it it probably a different problem. If you shift and then it does click right and then you can't go to the next gear, then you might want to adjust it. But mark where you started. It is possible to make it worse. One half turn takes the lobe 180 degrees, so stay within a quarter turn of where the factory adjusted it. Adjust in small increments, be patient and test it every 15 degrees of the 180 degree arc, to find where it shifts well and where it shifts poorly. Oh, and here is another tip: If you take it apart, DON'T TOUCH THE DOGEARS!!!! Take it apart in neutral or first and leave it there. I was worried I'd never get it back together. Oh, and keep the gasket remover off the paint

Excellent! And the tow truck driver saved you $$$$$ on impound fees. When I got my V65 back I think they charged me $300 (can't remember...)for towing and three days storage....as if I was not at the tow lot 30 minutes after the Sheriff called.... Anyway great news!

It worked pretty well. $29 plus tax...even Ford parts are expensive... The .62" inch hose was a little on the tight side, but I got it on. It was also a little on the long side, so I ended up leaving about two inches of the curved section at each end. Yay! No more disintegrating PVC! However if this does not last, I will go back to that other elbow I found and use two of them instead of one of them and one pvc plumbing elbow. The PVC did not hold up to the heat and the PVC cement did not hold up to the heat and oil.

Excellent guess, but wrong. And my guess was wrong too. As I was looking at it, I thought you were correct, but then I realized that it only limited travel in one direction, and I thought this can't be right. So I activated the shifter with eccentric lobe maxed out in either direction and discovered that it sets the neutral point of spring pressure on the ratchet. Meaning that if it is maxed out in one direction, the ratchet will not re-engage on up-shifts, and if it is maxed out in the other direction, the ratchet will not re-engage on down-shifts. Keep in mind that it does not need to be maxed out to not re-engage. There is only a quarter turn of adjustability where it seems to be happy. Atleast on my bike. Your mileage will vary... Of course I set it in the middle of that quarter turn. The bike was previously not set to the middle of that quarter turn. I hope this will fix my missed shifts! I also marked the lobe apex or whatever it is called on the set screw so that I can adjust it from outside and know what the heck is going on inside. Now back to the autoparts store to return the gasket remover that was missing the aerosol top. Oh, and the good news was no apparent binding on the spring. I guess cause it is a 2000....or they fixed it durring the recall (not likely).

On Guzzitech somebody posted a Ford heater hose that appears to be perfectly curved for the V11EV. It may also fit our bike: http://www.guzzitech.com/EVBreatherHose-Joe_B.html Pictured below is the Goodyear Ford hose #63318 compared to the EV hose Here is the NAPAonline part number and description: Item#: NBH10912 Price: $ 26.79 Attributes: Attributes: Hose - Heater I.D.(s): .62'' x .62'' x .62'' Length: 23.7'' Mine is starting to leak again, so I may give this a shot!

Okay, back to fork springs. I found some more progressive springs: http://www.wilbers-products.net/ (in German...) V 11 Sport Artikel Nr. 600-062-01 Die progressiven Gabelfedern von Wilbers Racing Suspension machen durchschlagende Gabeln und bockiges Ansprechen zu einem Stück Geschichte. Durch ihre Konstruktion federn sie leichte Unebenheiten ebenso souverän ab wie harte Schläge oder brutale Bremsmanöver. Das ist das Ergebnis sorgfältiger Konstruktion und eines harten Testprogramms von der Nürburgring-Nordschleife bis zur Full-Speed-Autobahn. Eine Produktionsfreigabe erfolgt erst dann, wenn die routinierten Tester ebenso zufrieden sind wie die Prüfer des TÜV. ABE und eine lebenslange Garantie dank verschleißfester Konstruktion gehören ebenso zum Lieferumfang wie eine detaillierte Einbauanleitung. 99Euro or luftballoons Guzzitech.com sells Wilbers...perhaps they can get them Wilbers also lists HyperPro and this other brand, Promoto V 11 Sport Artikel Nr. 500-062-01 Gerade die Gabelfedern beweisen die Qualität zum Sparpreis. Sie sind ebenso sorgfältig konstruiert wie die teureren Gabelfedern anderer Produktlinien, bestehen aus hochwertigem Siliziumstahl, werden auf modernsten, computergesteuerten Maschinen gefertigt und sind in Fahrversuchen exakt auf das jeweilige Motorradmodell abgestimmt und selbstverständlich TüV-geprüft. Ihre progressive Auslegung garantiert ein feines Ansprechverhalten bei geringen Einfedergeschwindigkeiten, rettet aber auch Ihre Gabel vor dem Durchschlagen oder zu starkem Eintauchen, wenn Sie stark bremsen oder bei hohen Geschwindigkeiten auf derbe Stöße im Belag treffen. 80 euros

Thanks for the tip! I have some Paglieri Felce Azzurra (Italian perfumed talc) I suppose that will be more appropriate than Johnson&Johnson, even if she is my baby

Sonny Angel Motorcycles did the work. They offered to fix the leak, but after hearing them whine about how little they get paid for the warranty work, they make me feel guilty about returning it to them, so, I'll just do it myself. Also, I did not buy the bike from them, so there is more guilt for that reason....especially because of the posts on this board about paying more to buy local. If I do the work, I know I will do a better job cleaning out the gearbox. I can check the pawl spring. I can check for other damage. I can loctite the bolts and use sealant on the faces or joints or whatever it is called. Yah, the mechanic could or should do these things to, but I have more faith in myself. Plus it is easier to do the work my self than to find a ride back and then to the shop to pick it up. ...or maybe I am just a sucker.

Me too! I have been 90/140 dinolube to slow down the leaking, so that may be making it worse. I'll go back to synthetic after it is sealed. It is hard to say exactly. It seemed to from down low in the second seam or sealed face from the back. Or if you look at the following diagram from the parts guide http://img83.echo.cx/img83/5475/gearbox1wa.gif it seemed to be between part number 1(front case) and number 2 (mid case) But thanks for asking. I was pretty sure that it was from between those cases, but I just went out and took some digital photos, which gives me a better view than with the naked eye. Now I am not so sure. So, my new plan is to drain the oil, pull the crossover, starter, and the side gear cover. Reverse the steps, and be sure everything accessible is well torqued and CLEAN. Go for a slow ride and watch for leaks. If it still indicates what I thought originally, I'll pull the gearbox or portions of it when I replace the shock spring. part 9 is called "eccentric pin" I have to select number by number to get the name...it does not list all the part names at once. I also want to pull the side cover to see how it adjusts

I think that might be from TechnoResearch's Marrelli ECU software, or specifically there 'Digital Dashboard' Also, the poor fuel mileage could be a result of too high of fuel pressure.

Sorry, I am gonna chicken out. They offered me a money back guarantee that it would work, but I think the numbers show it to be a little too stiff for me. Maybe I need to eat more and get my weight up around 250# But for now, I am gonna give a 475# HyperCoil spring a shot. Ordered from http://www.hrpworld.com $78.45 US after shipping and insurance

Thanks people, My leak is elsewhere, so I have to crab it. This is just a good opportunity to clean out some muck and check the spring. Plus the shifting has been getting worse, jamming a couple of times... I suppose I should order a spring first...or a spare gear box... It has never been the same since the recall work.

You sure stumped this chump. I assume you are talking about part 9 I am about to tear my gearbox off to seal it. Does anyone know which is the breaking Pawl spring? Maybe I can figure out what that adjuster is....It looks like it adusts the relationship of the shifter to the dog ears or something like that. Click here for bigger image

I am contacting Hyperpro to see if they can provide me with a lighter weight shock spring than what they spec'd for Ratchet. I did some calculations and I believe a 475# spring would be about right for me. I estimate that the spring weight over the axle is about 40% of spring weight, so a 500# spring would need 200# over the axle to deflect it one inch. I don't sit over the axle, so I need a lighter spring. I stood on the stock spring(detached from shock) while holding a ruler to it (A sight to see) and found that my 210#s deflected it about 5/8 of an inch indicating a spring weight in the 300-350# range. A 350# spring would require 140lbs over the rear axle to deflect it one inch. I now think 500# is a little too stiff, even for my weight. I am hoping for 400-550# rising rate from hyperpro. The 515-825# rate that they quoted is toooooo stiff, or my calculations are way off.

Nog might put some plastic wrap over the plasticene so it won't get stuck in the pipe.

You betcha! With patience, we will both get our suspensions sorted out. I have to reseal my tranny soon, so I shall be taking the rear shock off, and the Porkchops as well. I am also interested in adding the missing bracket from frame to gearbox: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...hl=transmission Thanks for your feedback.

Personally I like pictures. Checkout these Porkchops! Sometimes I miss eating mammals...