dlaing

Make sure your bulb is right side up otherwise you will getting full time brake light and tail fillament for the braking. (they did not make it Homer proof ) I had to repace my entire lamp...I simply bought a Buell taillight. Under $30 US KISS! I went through many semi successful contact cleanings and reallignments...eventually the cleanings failed. Perhaps I had a silicate buildup from all the silicone My plan is to take the old lamp and fill with a parabola of LEDs

I guess I should not complain, and I should just replace them in pairs.... I'd be happier if I could get 7000 miles out of a tire. I probably need more air pressure. Time to calibrate the gauges!

That was my impression, too. I mostly skimmed the messages and went for the charts. I was looking for something definitive on Progressive vs. Straight, and found some interesting information, but alot of opinion just for the sake of opinion. Ditto on the thanks to everyone who makes this forum what it is!

So Rocketman, How is your rear tire wearing? I guess I am the only one that has the problem just on the front Those OHLINS better fix the problem

My left front wears out like crazy. My rear tire is nice and even...maybe a tiny bit more wear on the left, but nothing like the front. I have been blaming it on the the Compression Left / Rebound Right set up of the early V11 models....but if the newer do it too, than maybe it is something else

I do too. What I was suprised about was how the HyperPro spring was so close to the OE spring, and how it was more likely to bottom out. Like you said, we don't know the details, but the sales guy you talked to would not give the details either. I believe I would want a heavier spring than the one they show there. I think my sag would be 2.25 inches with the hyperpro that they show. I suppose they have a good return policy, but it would be a lot of work to go through to find the sag is wrong. I know that if I get a 1.0 - 1.1 I will be very close to the right sag.But OK, I can add preload to get the sag right, but adding pre-load is a pain it the butt and if I give it too much, is that bad? I don't understand why there is such a thing as to much spring pre-load, I guess you could get spring binding Maybe I am doing something wrong, but I had to manually compress the spring while my girlfriend turned the bolt. Is there a safe way to lock the rod so that you may tighten the bolt? I think we can safely assume that the Traxxion is a 1.0 Kg/mm. I would call the Hyperpro and the stock a 0.78/1.43 or more likely a 0.75/1.5 as they probably standardized the spring, and we are not seeing every increment of measurement. Assuming I am correct,(who knows, they could be 0.70/1.45 ) than I would have liked to order a 0.85/1.6. For the rear, I want a #500 or #550 straight rate. What might this translate to in HyperPro? a #450/700 might be about right. You are 100% correct. What bugs me is that the sales guy won't share the data with you....either that or he just does not have the data. Perhaps with every sale they ask, sport or street, and how heavy you are and then send the sales slip to the guru that makes the guesstimate. Are they taking into consideration that we are riding a #500+ sport bike? The Traxxion is not just LESS progressive, it is non-progressive and is a straight rate spring. It is fair to say that the Traxxion 1.0 will bottom out more easily than the stock FZ1 and the supplied HyperPros springs. Since Jason retracted his recommendation, it does make going to a stock FZ1 spring a bit of a gamble. We do know that the stock Guzzi spring is significantly less than a 1.0, and it is a straight rate. So assuming they sent you the Fz1 hyperpro spring, and it fit, or they sent you one with the same rating, we could be sure you would be much better off than stock... For me, I think the hyperpro spring in that chart would be too soft. For you I think it would be just about right....But I could be wrong. Let us know what you find out with Hyperpro!

Here is some more good info: http://teamiguana.com/FZ1/Suspension/springchart.htm FWIW the FZ1 spring fits our Marz, so this data is right up our alley. It looks like the FZ1 OE spring is progressive like the hyperpro, while the Traxion is straight rate like the racetech. Surprisingly the HyperPro is softer than the OE in the 2nd and 3rd inch of travel. Search eBay for an OE FZ1 spring!!!! Here is the thread http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthrea...p?threadid=6694 associated with the chart....and with graphs like this one:

I think Stat uses Anka to seduce the ladies~ Kinda like the way Seinfeld uses Mel Torme I wonder why punk rock and new wave(NOT the boy band, flock of duran crap)never helped me get lucky PS I don't know if Stat got lucky tonight, but the San Antonio Spurs sure did!

Or if you want the digital workshop manual(and parts catalog) some weird angel or saint or sinner has posted it: http://www.angelfire.com/weird2/v11/ Hi speed internet recommended as it is large. But for the valves, Lex's instructions in the FAQ are mucho more better than the manual's instructions.

Stefan, Sorry, I think I advised you before that you were probably in the group of problematic bikes. According to this PDF, your bike appears to be one built before the bad ones were built. GuzziRecall.pdf But if Holger's information is true, than you need the recall work done.

MSRP on the R&T is about $2500 US. But people sell for $2250 or so... Their Superbike series are quite a bit more expensive, especialy for tuning and replacement parts. If you order the R&T (Road and Track) or the Superbike you will also have to do something to make your wheel, axle, and fender work with it. You will probably need new axle, new bearings, new bearing spacers, and a new fender. If you sort it out yourself, the parts should not cost more than $500, but if you pay a shop to figure it out for you, the sky is the limit. So, maybe $3000 for the whole setup. People on this list can help tell you what you need. The OE Ohlins equipped bikes are well worth the extra price, in my opinion. If you get a genuine Guzzi Ohlins, from a Scura or Corsa or whatever, there may be less to do, I am not sure... I am buying Mike Stewart's used Ohlins, so he has already done all the hard work for me, and will provide, the fender, axle, bearing and spacers. I just have to reassemble and make sure the spacers are right for my bike. Look for a thread titled, "Hollow Axle", lotsa good info there. Maybe somebody could write a clear FAQ on upgrading. Paul M. and others have already provided valuable information....you just have to search for it.

My gauges are all over the place, regardless of price... rossoct tells it right! My biggest peeve is trying to find a gas station that has a hose that reaches my valve stem properly. Many are angled wrong or have donuts on the hose to protect the air fitting. Donuts are for my belly But I guess if I never used my bicycle pump, I'd get even less excercise.

Only Dr. Frankensteeeein knows for sure! But I think air does have its value. Surely Big Rigs use it to keep their cargo comfortable, touring bikes use it, and it can be very useful for vehicles that need to be switched on the fly to accomodate varying loads. On the Ohlins, the air appears to assist the springs and with enough oil displacing the air, provides an excellent bottoming out cushion. Perhaps that is why the Ohlins are favored over the Marz in addition to 'better' damping. As for the Marzocchis, I am not sure. Perhaps they just need more oil to increase the air spring and the damping modification that Brian did. And a thicker axle would not hurt. I have got Ohlins forks on order, so I am very excited about that, but now that I have read what Brian did, and what I have learned about the 'air', I think there is room for improvement on the Marzocchi. I always thought a fork brace would help, but it is too much trouble to fabricate one... Ratchet, love your Marty Feldman avatar! It is always disturbingly appropriate to our conversations.

I am just thinking if you bottom out on the air on one side, it will create significant torsional forces on the axle... And thanks for the air pressure lesson

The chart also shows how late in the fork movement the air assistance is. Basically it is linear until the last 20% of stroke. I assume the Hyperpro and Progressive springs have a more even curve. Keep in mind that when I estimated five pounds of force at the end of the stroke, their was no oil in the forks which would be like equivalent of maybe 700mm measurement from the top. The recommended 400cc might change the measurement by 200-400mm resulting in 300-500 of air....still not enough to provide serious anti-dive assistance. It would be interesting to pull the springs and add oil until you need most of your body weight to compress the fork. The draw back could be blown seals and oil leaks So assuming my #5 at 700mm estimate was correct, then at 350mm we get #10, at 175 mm we get #20, at 87.5mm we get #40, at 43.75 mm we get #80 which with two forks you would double the amount of assistance. So one could get a fair amount of assistance. Assuming a halving of volume actually double the pressure... I am sure JRT and others would know. The Ohlins numbers are still much higher than my guesstimates for the Marzocchi. Perhaps they are more narrow on the inside....or I am just way off!!! Keep in mind that the higher your level gets, the more critical the balance in level between the left and right tube would be. Because if you bottom out, one fork would take a lot more of the force, possibly causing your axle to bend, loss of traction, crashing, etc.

It has been exactly a year since you last posted about it. Your link did not work for me, but you probably have the right recall. You should contact the vehicle safety authority of Sweden and they should be able to force Moto Guzzi Sweden to help you. Make: MOTO GUZZI Model: V11 SPORT Type: ANY Year: 2000 Recall Number: 03V486000 Summary: ON CERTAIN MOTORCYCLES, THE GEARBOX SHIFT SLEEVES FOR ENGAGEMENT OF 3RD TO 6TH GEARS CAN FRACTURE UNEXPECTEDLY WHILE THE MOTORCYCLE IS IN USE. Consequence: SHOULD SUCH A FRACTURE OCCUR, THE MOTORCYCLE’S REAR WHEEL CAN SUDDENLY STOP TURNING OR “LOCK,” RESULTING IN A LOSS OF CONTROL OF THE MOTORCYCLE, WHICH COULD RESULT IN A CRASH, PERSONAL INJURY, OR DEATH. Remedy: DEALERS WILL INSTALL NEW, IMPROVED SHIFT RINGS AND A REDESIGNED CUSH-DRIVE ASSEMBLY. OWNER NOTIFICATION BEGAN DECEMBER 14, 2003. OWNERS SHOULD CONTACT MOTO GUZZI AT 1-877-APRILIA (1-877-277-4542).

cool! I am glad it worked out. I am pretty positive that the irregular wear on the front tire is caused by uneven damping right to left. I'll bet the work they did will work very well. Mike Stewart has a Penske listed for sale that you might be interested in...see Classifieds. He was very happy with it after a return or two to dial it in right. I think you are right about the Marzocchis on our bikes. Unless one put a liter of oil in each tube the air spring would not be strong enough to make much of a difference and the seals are not exactly air tight so down hill mountain runs with lots of braking could result in the front losing air and bottoming out. On the other hand I was looking at the Ohlins R&T manual and they provide a pretty good guide on how to set up the oil level to get progressive damping out of the forks. Here is a chart of the effects of oil level. Oil level measured from the top, so, lower mm +higher oil level and smaller volume of air. For Larger graph click here http://www.imageshack.us

And there is surely a market for underseat mufflers! But, they just would be lucky to sell 20 of them to V11 owners, especially since they are discontinued... But the Griso needs something less obtrusive!

How cruel. Anyway, we all hope you get it back. My V65 was stolen and I got it back three months later, and chances are with a Guzzi, it was just for a joy ride and you will get it back.

Glad someone found this info useful I almost did not post because of the popularity of straight rate springs, and the fear of ridicule. Did the sales guy give an idea what the weight/sport range is on the non-special order springs? I am about #210, naked and am looking for sporty sport touring firm but compliant, not road racer stiff and I rarely ride two up. I was thinking a #500 straight rate spring was about right for me. I am just looking for the rear spring now. (Anybody in San Diego want to save money and split a kit?) I suppose if I just tell them that, they can set me up right, with something like a 400/600 rising rate spring.

On the subject of progressive springs and the forks, I had my forks apart, and for kicks, reassembled without springs so that I could test how much assistance the air offered....the answer: Not Much at all....Without any oil it took maybe five pounds of pressure to fully compress the forks. Which leads me back to thinking progressive springs may be a good idea. Has anyone tried Hyperpro springs or their shocks. They list the V11Sport for a rear shock, rear shock spring and front springs. http://www.hyperpro.com

That is one of the reasons I liked riding with you! --Dave "slower than Slowpoke" Laing PS we should go riding again soon, and RatchetHack, too! My bike is in pieces for atleast a week...

I just want him to ride for Guzzi and dominate TT on an MGS01. Or maybe Guzzi could introduce a 250HP V8 for him to dominate GP with!!! But with the lack of Guzzis on the field, GO MOTO DUCATI!!!!!!!!

Why are they advertising in the Bronx Craig's list? Something is not right.

Thanks for the post, I should give it a try. I had no idea that the Silicone would convert to Silicate and reduce conductivity. Silicone is still better than no silicone, but the De-Oxit makes more sense.