dlaing

I soldered on a pair of test wires on to the wiring harnass up by the ECU...I guess I am scared of needles Works great! Others on the list have also added test connectors. But I tried to get the bike to not stall running off the left cylinder and it would just bog down and stall. To test with the engine off, I pulled the lighting fuse so that the battery would maintain good voltage. I still got readings from 210 to 170 mV...it seemed to stabilize around 170 mV after seating the throttle body valve several times. So I was happy with the reading. I suppose you could hook the bike up to an idling car with jumper cables. but maybe that is not the same. Will Creedon or Carl Allison wrote the following regarding a V1100Sporti: "This is where things get a bit tricky: I have found that the TPS output sags 20mV or more in an inconsistent manner when the engine is stopped. It stabilizes at a higher value when the alternator is spinning on my bike. So I set the TPS output to 150 mV with the bike running. But the RH throttle must be completely closed to do this, so basically the bike is running like crap at 1200 rpm on only the left cylinder when I reset the TPS! The throttle linkage is disconnected." The ECU on our bike may be different, but if our manual says engine on, than do it by the book.

I am not sure what the correct way to charge a Hawker is. Hawker used to recommend Deltran, maker of Battery Tender, but then Deltran and Hawker stopped recommending each other. Deltran said something about the Hawker battery not being suitable for power sports(motorcycles) because the required charging voltage is too high. Hawker said the Deltran don't meet their specs anymore. You can see a thread with quotes from both companies, here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4993&hl= In any case the Hawker should not receive more than 15 Volts durring charging. Most automotive chargers will exceed the 15Volts. I know my 2Amp/6Amp automotive charger will exceed 15 V even when set to 2 Amps. I suspect you would be OK if you sit their watching a Volt meter as it charges, but once it hits 15V you may only be partially charged. But it seems to me that what would kill the battery is the Watts, not the Volts. Hawker recommends the following chargers: TecMate AccuMate Pro 12V-7A-S Motion Pro Inc. 650-594-9600 Xenotronix SX 90-1 12V, 6A Xenotronix 800-624-9366 Motocell™ 693601 12V, 3A Custom Chrome 800-729-3332 Battery Defender ACC-1206WB 12V, 3A BatteryMart.com 800-405-2121

Thanks Antonio and Jaap! I updated my site with the Yuasa battery models. Comparing the two Yuasa's the YTX12-BS is a little bigger, but about 10% lighter and 10% less powerful. So, the YTX12-BS may be better for racers while the YTZ12-S is probably better for the rest of us...but the price and availability the final selling point I like how the Yuasa don't require just the right charger, the way the Hawker's do.

silicone dielectric grease will last much longer than WD40 and protect better.

The Spark 500 has the exact same specs as the Hawker Genesis and so should be avoided even though it works fine, it is underbuilt for the abuse that our bikes put it through and "not recommended for powersports" Instead use what the others have recommended, the Hawker Odyssey, The Yuasa, or possibly a Westco sealed battery. I don't think the Yuasa number that they gave is available in the US.

I guess some people don't swallow. Enzo we need pics of the Cobra custom exhaust! I imagine with some Mike Rich Stage two porting, cams, pistons and something to raise your redline we could see you doing 150+ And then we need pics of you going through the traps at Bonneville

I liked the tests you did. If the bike is insured, the 110MPH through a residential zone(wall of house) may have paid dividends! And mashing down on stuff sure seemed logical. I am suprised the seat is not mashing the wires under the ECU, relays or fuses. Still it might be worth pulling those devices and looking for bad wire insulation. I suppose you already checked the ECU ground line for ground. Here is another wild guess. When you hit the throttle the fuel sloshes back causing the low level light to activate, but the bulb is shorted out, so it causes the fuse to blow. The major hole in the theory is that it should cause the lighting fuse to blow, not the ecu fuse. Try a full tank. And another long shot, perhaps you crossed wires somewhere. If the two red wires on the Injection relay are crossed, 85 to 87 and versyvisavusa, fuse blowing would be highly likely. But that probably would not have happened as the wireharnass probably would not allow it without deliberate effort.

The doodad on the right side of the tank is the fuel pressure regulator. The small hose connector is meant to simply sample atomospheric pressure to compare it to fuel pressure. When you remove the hoses, they should be full of gasoline. I recommend safety goggles, as the first time I removed the tank, a hose that I was removing, flingged fuel in my face. It may be a good time to replace the fuel filter and hoses...

With your approval, I am posting two of the diagrams here: http://www.scripps.edu/~dlaing/v11s/carl/1999_V11_sport.gif http://www.scripps.edu/~dlaing/v11s/carl/2004_V11_sport.gif Oh, and what the heck, my office space has room for a TPS Report http://www.scripps.edu/~dlaing/v11s/carl/TPS.html Stay Wired! PS I just edited my site to reflect the change http://www.scripps.edu/~dlaing/v11s/ which has a link to http://www.scripps.edu/~dlaing/v11s/carl/ and http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007/sportissimo.html

On a side note, I figured out what the two bullet connectors are that come out of the wiring harnass by the ECU. They represent item 44 (warning light connector) on Carl's wiring diagram: http://home.pacbell.net/guzzi007/schematic...9_V11_sport.gif I wonder if one could put a bulb inbetween, just for kicks?!? And now that I think about it the red line would make a suitable switched relay activator....just don't use the blue line as that does something tricky with the ECU as Jason (JRT) discovered. If I am reading the diagram correctly, you could have power for your auxillary device as long as the engine is running, but not when the key is on but the engine off. This is even better than a simple wiring to the key switch!!!

Joe, I guess you did not meet the guard that works under you weekend late nights Don't worry, I'll take the "job"...

Excellent! and no steroids to shrink your weenie! Guzzis are the real deal

Oh, I get it! There is a "Code" button!!! I thought you were an HTML Genius

Just to put it into perspective, the manual says: Front wheel solo 2.3 BAR, two up 2.4 BAR Rear wheel solo 2.5 BAR, two up 2.6 BAR For continuous high speed cruising on motorways, increase the front tire by 0.1 BAR. In my opinion, I'd bet that many of us are heavy enough and fast enough to require the 2.5 front and 2.6 BAR rear. Here is a quick and dirty conversion chart from BAR to PSI: 2.28 BAR = 33 PSI 2.34 34 2.41 35 2.48 36 2.55 37 2.62 38 2.69 39 2.76 40 FWIW I have three gauges and they are all several pounds apart. So, I say set it high and let it fly But seriously, I am wary about setting the front too high as I am not good enough to control the front end sliding out and it seems to make the bike nervous. Every tire I buy has been a new experience for setting tire pressure.

They probably had to consult tax attorneys I trust you will get paid, it may just be difficult for them to find or create something of equal value. And maybe they are having trouble parting with their MGS01

Alright! Nice equipment!

Alright! There are a few San Diegans ready to ride!

Aren't they the On Board Diagnostics wires??? One option for those of us who have converted from the electic petcock to the manual pet rock, I mean manual petcock, is that it leaves us with a switched pair of wires with a lovely connector. However the lines are not rated for the amps needed, so it would have to be used with a relay and a fused line to the battery. But that should not be a big deal.It uses the 8th fuse, which I believe is empty on later bikes that shipped with the manual petcock. That fuse slot may also prove useful.

Excellent coding! I looked at the source code and still don't know how you did it! I thought about posting a screen shot of it, but was too lazy.

I disagree. For one, disconnecting the lighting fuse when the engine is off will help keep your voltage up as you exclude the charging system which has much more than diddley to do with the ECU fuse. You were the one that brought up the unlikely possibility of the TACH...but still a possibility, why not exclude the possibility? Other possibilities are the components not on the ECU fuse but connected to the ECU. The Coils are the most likely culprit of that bunch. From my experience, a bad coil can kill an electronic ignition. Perhaps Marelli was smart enough to put in current overload protection that blows a fuse. I am no electronic engineer, so maybe, I am wrong and there is no way that could happen. But it would be an easy test. Yes, the TPS is the most likely culprit...followed by the engine position sensor, followed by wiring, followed by the charging system, followed by an ignition coil, followed by the fuel pump, followed by the fuel injectors, followed by thermal sensors, followed by the non synthetic air in your tires.

Carl gets the Anorak of the Day Award! Bird (jgs) . __ . /'{> . ____) (____ . //'-- ; ; --' \\ . /////// \_/ \\\\\\\ . jgs m m this is supposed to be a Guzzi Eagle....it bites! Go here and look for bird to see how it should look.... http://www.ludd.luth.se/~vk/pics/ascii/jun...e_challenge.txt

I had to look that one up! "In British slang, anorak has come to mean "geek" or "nerd", for example from the use of anoraks as the invariable wear of train spotters, and then by extension to refer to anyone with an unfathomable interest in detailed information regarded as boring by the rest of the population - aided by the intuition that only a geek would wear something so terminally unfashionable." en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anorak_(slang)

An interesting test would be to see if you can blow the fuse with the ignition on and the engine off. Try the test with the lighting fuse and fuel pump pulled, and then try it with just the lighting fuse pulled. These tests may help narrow down the culprit...It could nearly eliminate the alternator and regulator if it blows. if the fuel pump relay is pulled it could nearly eliminate the fuel pump, fuel injectors and coils. The lighting fuse may give a clue about the tachometer. As for the TPS, you could check the voltage output. The maximum output should be a little less than five volts. If you have a PCIII you could hook to a computer and check for smooth TPS operation from 0 to 100% throttle. Perhaps you could also do that with the CJ software. Happy Birthday!