dlaing

Desdinova, Do you know if they mapped the cylinders individually. I suppose that could have made a difference or as you suggested, the total combination of parts and tuning... It is kind of like you got the best of both of these bikes tuned by Doug Lofgren: The red is Stucchi crossover/Mistral/K&N Pods The blue is OE crossover/Agostini(Mistral)/Stock Airbox

So it is YOUR fault!!!! My team of lawyers will be in touch with your team of lawyers But seriously, I am happy that I have had the recall even if I have to smell oil on the crossover everytime I ride...And the bike mis-shifts more frequently now... But I'll bet if I sealed it up and put some synthetic back in it, it would be fine...

Dam Desdinova! 60 lbs of torque at 3500 RPM! That is a smoking difference! You must have gotten one of the better engines because I don't think the mods would give you a boost there.

Just don't crash. But for insurance, pull the fairing(I miss mine, and yah it was too expensive to replace ) You might also pull the headlight. I'd leave the bars for the sake of familiarity. Try to get in some excercise this month It will help you beat the fatigue...although the comment to sit out while others are fatigued might be a good one. I'd bet most track day accidents are in the first lap and the last hour. (not that I have done a track day) OH, and get some full sport tires. (treaded track tires) You might also remove the sidestand, but you would need a stand in your pit. EDIT yah what Baldini said, but I would bet that not all tracks have a proper wall.

That sucks! You should request a loaner bike at the least.

OK, 8:30 AM it is. Probably just Slowpoke and me. But anyone can drop in!

Hey Ben, I just have to see V50Man's dyno results, see if I can pay what he paid, order a PCIII USB ( I have the serial one now, but I am convinced that the Quat-D is a prime candidate for individual cylinder tuning) I have a pair of round carbon Mistrals, that MAY go up for sale. They sound great, are pretty light and make excellent peak HP. But the bike with the Mistrals is weaker in the low end, below 3000 rpms, which is where I am if I use sixth or even fifth gear putsing to work in the 45mph radar enforced 7 mile stretch. So now I am using OE Scura mufflers. Of course I wish I had more power everywhere, but the bike is still fast enough for my needs.

My dad lives in Toronto. Great town, but life is better in Sunny San Diego I also lived in NYC, so I made a few trips to visit dad on the Danforth@Pape. Back then, the 401 speed limit was 100kmh while the US roads were 55MPH. There were a few RCMP on the 401, so I gambled....but otherwise a great high speed road with long clear stretches. I imagine the traffic is heavier than ever now. I have to go back and visit...as I have not been there in 15 years.

FWIW Mistrals and other free-er flowing mufflers also give you LESS power, at low RPMs where the dynometer does not show. The Quat-D fills in the hole between 4 and 5000, which is about as valuable as the loss in peak power. Your mileage will vary. Neither of our runs are absolute proof as we did not dyno before the Quat-D was on. Many have put on the Mistral crossover and lost nearly 10 peak HP, while some like Japp have gained HP...go figure. The big selling point for the Quat-D is what it does for the handling, the aesthetics, and opens up huge saddlebag options. It is also more fun to drive a bike with a Quat-D. I traded my Quat-D for a pair of Mistrals. Yah, I gained peak HP, but I would trade back in a heart beat because of what I lost, that can not be described by numbers on a graph. ...and if the new Quat-D proves to have more power with the Cat removed, my Mistrals will be up for sale!

MSG=yum It even makes Budweiser taste good! (not in the beer, but in what you are eating with the bier...and you probably ask, why would you take up valuable stomach space that could occupy beer...)

The most likely bets are the neutral switch and the connection to it. Next bet, the connection of the 10Amp ignition fuse...fourth fuse from one direction or another...but you cannot miss it as it is 10Amps. Next bet, the ignition key switch, which have been suprisingly reliable, according to this forum's statistics...so the ignition switch is unlikely. I would not suspect a relay as the neutral light is not controlled by a relay. I believe others have had the same problem. One had it after the recall on the gearbox...

The tach is controlled by the one relay that requires all five connectors on the relays. It is possible that you swapped a four connector relay for into the socket that needs a five connector relay. If the tach is not working, but the headlight is, I am totally wrong. All of the sockets can take the five connector relays. A set from Pyro Dan is cheap: http://www.dpguzzi.com/relay.htm It may also be a good time to pull every electrical connection that you can get to, and spray in some electrical silicone lubricant.

The ones with the big plastic thang must protect much better, but at the expense of aesthetics. I'll bet that with no guard the bike at the AZ rally would have had more severe fin damage. In any case, you cannot predict how hard the impact will be. Better to have head guards than not. When I broke my shoulder, the bike went over hard enough to break the stock guard, but no fin damage and the cosmetically damaged plug lead still worked well enough to be ridden out of the canyons. The billet one I have now is maybe half a millimeter bigger, but much more robust. I think wider ones would be better, but uglier. The trellis shaped ones would probably give under impact to reduce bolt thread damage.

OK, I hear yah. Thanks for the clarification. I often wait for Santa Ana's to bleed my brakes. But, I should not wait too, long. They are a little spongy right now. Maybe I'll go open up a motorcycle tire and brake specialty shop in Borrego Desert. I'll be pumping the air full of drier air into the tires and I could bleed brakes with lower risk of humidity getting in. I'd be near the best roads. The rent is cheap. Dry air for sale! What a marketing strategy!

Excellent! I am glad that you got more horse power out of it than I did. I am suprised you got less torque. Different dyno, different bike, but maybe it is the pods. Here is my run, dynotuned with serial PCIII, Quat-D and FBF open airbox kit. I am sure one could get even better results with a USB PCIII tuned for individual cylinders. Perhaps tomorrow we can take a photo of your chart to post it My run is in blue, a generic V11S run is in red for a rough comparison. No, I did not have the budget to dyno with the stock mufflers, but it would be useful to know.

So, it looks like about 8 or 9am at the I15 / 76 Mobil in Fallbrook. I'll narrow the time down later if anyone wants to join us. We will probably just head to Borrego and back before 1PM

SlowPoke, thanks for the invitation to ride! Are you guys still up for it? Anybody else? My only obligation is to be in Fallbrook for Mother's Day Lunch, 1PM - 3 or 4PM

Funny you should mention those numbers. Last weekend I hit 138mph in sixth gear and I was just about 8K....I think I was a little below, but the hill I was climbing was about to crest, so I did not look long enough to compare. I had a strong tailwind and easily could have hit the 8400(?) rpm rev limiter with another mile of open road, I mean track. Stock(scura muffler) and open box. (not really relevant as the tail wind made the difference) I like a bike that will not pull an honest redline in top gear because it gives you room to go faster down hill or down wind. I was once following a Corvette and and FJ11 or 1200 down the MacDonald-Cartier (TO-Kingston) at 120 veglia MPH on my V65, we hit a downgrade and they walked away from me as I was at the redline....could have gone faster with a sixth gear...oh well. I have often wondered what it would take to pull an honest redline in sixth gear. Given enough road space, I think 80RWHP will do it, and some are putting out quite a bit more power. I figure my mostly stock bike is making about 75-80 RWHP and I have pulled 130MPH/ 7000 RPMs with almost no wind and a slight upgrade in sixth gear, but 8000 RPM seemed like maybe I could make it with good conditions. Last weekend I made 800RPM effortlessly, with a 20-30MPH tailwind even going uphill. I am still looking for a safe place to really test it, like a private air field...I think most tracks are too tight to test top speed

You guys are confusing me. As I understand it, to be safe, you want sufficient freeplay, and minimal air and water in the lines. Are either of you saying this is not true? Regarding lubricating the pistons; I think it is fine to do as long as you are careful and clean the excess so that it will not contact the the pads or rotors. Keep in mind that lubricants will creep and move to places that you might not have predicted.

I don't know if the alternator EuroMotoElectrics is developing will work on new Guzzis, but at the very least, he is a source for starters... From the GuzziTech forum Ditto on the no affiliation, etc...

Or better yet scan and post it so we can reap the harvest But that may be too much work...digital camera

I don't know if it helps but the the v11 engine is centered in the frame while the v1100 sits off center(to the left????) And I think the crossover hanger is different.... I am sure many on the list know the exact differences. FWIW I had Bubs on my V65...loved the sound and performance!

Great pics! I have to make it there next year. The Castaic Lake was my high budget vacation for the season, so I could not make Arizona... It looks like the weather was cool but nice

Theoretically an LCD should be cheaper, lighter, almost perfectly accurate, and water tight....but I bet they suck in direct sunlight(but have not ridden a bike with one...)

I don't know about the internal pump models, but on the external pump models, the connector is idiot proof. However Al, may have custom wired it in a way that the polarity could be reversed How about a pinched fuel line??? But maybe you don't have an external pressure regulator.??? Many other possiblities still exist. Bad ECU, Bad Battery(but it cranks...), Bad connection, Bad injector, Bad Coil