dlaing

I can never remember, so I just dial the plastic adjuster wheel one way. If the needle gets better, than I know which way to go Another tip with the twinmax is to get a pair of inline adjustable flow restrictors. This helps keep the needle steady. But don't close the restrictors too much or it will mess up your reading. I got my restrictors from some lousy vacuum gauges that were so far out of synch from each other that they are basically useless. The TwinMax is Awesome! The CarbTunes look pretty cool too. Mercury is great, but my V65 sucked mercury once, which is NOT good.

The idle mixture goes out of synch too....but you can probably count the number of turns on the bypass screws for the proper idle mixture and stick to it. If your idle changes too much at different operating temperatures, or you pop durring decelleration, than you might want the dealer to check out the idle mixture. Is bypass screws out leaner or richer???

And I would not completely disagree with Steve. You should not just hook up any trickle charger. You need a "smart" charger. Or you have to keep the charging voltage between 14.2 and 14.7 V without overcharging it, and when it goes into trickle state the voltage should be something like 13.2 V or was that 13.0 or 13.1???? My guess is that your BMW charger is just what you need. I would not be suprised if the Deltran is still a fine charger for the Odyssey, as it seems to operate within the required voltage...but the two companies are feuding. The Deltran does have a higher maximum voltage than the currently recommended chargers. It could be that the Deltran keeps it at that voltage for too long....so the warranty claims probably rolled in with each blaming each other...(just guessing ) about $70 plus shipping. I think I have seen similar prices on eBay. The link is in the first post of this thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...hawker++odyssey

Oh boy, So, Odyssey no longer recommends Deltran

Dang! Look what I just found: source: http://batterytender.com/notice_odyssey.php So, our alternator is specified to put out 14.0-14.6 Volts, which may be fine for maintaining adequate charge, but peak battery performance must require periodic charging of 14.7 to 15.0 V. Our service manual recommends the following for charging:

My Spark 500 lasted from when I got the left over 2000 model December 2000, until December 2004. So, atleast four years...but southern california years... It might have lasted longer if I rode more frequently and did not give it too many volts when charging with my 6 amp automotive charger. Yes, it went over 15 V Maximum charging voltage for the Hawker Odyssey is 15 Volts. You can trickle charge, but follow the Odyssey guidelines. A fully charged battery is 12.84 V I don't think you should charge it once it is fully charged, which is what many do with trickle chargers. Odyssey recommend 1.25amp Battery Tender brand battery charger for keeping it charged, but not recharging. For recharging they recommend Deltran brand 6 amp and 20 amp. The Deltran also supports storage charging. ***EDIT: Warning: Read further on in the thread. Odyssey no longer recommends Deltran...and vice versa. end EDIT*** From what I can figure out, the Spark 500 is identical to the Hawker Genesis, which Hawker does not recommend nor warrant for "power sports" Instead they recommend the Hawker Odyssey. I'll let you know when my Hawker Odyssey fails Checkout the service bulletin that Paul M. mentioned, (see GH67's post at: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4967&hl= )

Nor should it be used for poorly functioning bike, unless the poor functioning is a result of modifications. But yah, the bike should be tested if something is wrong. If iit runs like a new Breva, then its only hope so far as I understand is a powercommander. It does not seem like there is much to do to tune it up. The settings in the ECU are not going to change so, visiting the dealer should not be necessary...unless it was the dealer that messed with the ECU to begin with. The valves can be checked, and adjusted. The Throttle bodies can be balanced. Do they have a mixture screw? Aside from that, he can test and swap out every sensor. So I think he should start with valve adjustment, then throttle adjustment, go for a ride, then boil the heat sensor, probe the TPS, and test the O2 sensor, then give up and go to the dealer, ride it, go to the dealer, ride it, get a power commander. Or he could order the power commander, regardless.

If you have the time, it is best to adjust the valves before adjusting the throttle bodies. But from my experience the throttle bodies do need more frequent adjusting. And when you adjust them, use a proper manometer or similar balancing device such as carb sticks, twinmax or Carbtune synchronizer. You can even make your own water or ATF manometer. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...55&hl=manometer Also, be sure to checkout this how to http://www.obairlann.net/~reaper/bmw-bike/guzzi/balance.html

I finally bought one, and one of the first things I did was cut off the worn out tips of my Allen (hex) keys.

Perhaps this is your only solution to the inadjustability: http://www.powercommander.com/722-411.shtml But the bike should not have mixture problems that were so bad that you noticed, so looking for bad lamda and temperature sensors is an excellent idea. And probing the TPS is a good idea, even if you cannot adjust it. The Volts should change smoothly as you give it throttle.

I use the "should be as snug as a sheet of paper(or a bookmark) pulled from the middle of a dictionary"(1500 page). But then I use a method similar to Brian's to verify: If I am shooting for 0.15mm I find two gauges that match up to 0.14mm and 0.16mm and they should be discernably too loose and too tight, respectively. I find it more important to get the right and left valves to be as close to each other more so than being right on 0.15mm intake and 0.20mm exhaust. So, if they end up being 0.16mm intake and 0.19 or 0.21mm exhaust that is fine, as long as it is consistent from right cylinder to left. However if you made a custom PCIII map, I would always set the valves to what they were at the dyno-tuning. Also, don't be like me and use old rusting feelers that are inconsistent and hard to read. Instead pony up a few bucks for new gauges every few years.

That bike is practically camoflauged in the snow! In fact all I can see is Tx' signature girl whereever I look Twins Rule!

Throbbing Twins Rule!

Two outlets (not like the Ducati QD that has two on the left side, but one outlet on each side, for perfect STEREO) and more power everywhere than OE and I am SOLD! (again...) But then again if V50Man's machine shows some sweet numbers, I could be sold

V11Sports manufactured October 1999 to April 2001 VIN range ZGUKRAKR8YM111929 TO ZGUKRAKR11M114435

Ian J. posted an alleged service bulletin for lighter engine oil: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=671&hl= The Big Lebowski posted a PDF of the tranny recall: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...ype=post&id=445 There was also a connecting rod recall... Probably an oil cooler bracket service bulletin. Maybe a Siemmens relay service bulletin? The vapor lock issue??? Possibly a tachometer service bulletin??????? Other parts that should be bulletined: The security bolts that hold on the ignition switch. The oil breather line that runs from the top of the engine forward and up above the coils into the spine frame. The cracking Sachs shock eye....how many bikes was that? 3 or 4 or???

That would be fun to ride, but Guzzi would lose all their money on warranty claims as the parts disintegrate from the added power I think one of the reasons the 750 has less power than the 650 is that they wanted it to last. I am hoping the third Breva will be the Grand Touring model

I'd hold out on the Breva until they release it with luggage. Have you tried making your LeMans more touring friendly? Standard handlebars could do wonders if you like to sit back. A Rich Maund seat could help you put on the miles. You could probably mount an ugly windshield extender. Ohlins suspension can help smooth the bumps. If you need to save money, you better be a good salesman not to lose your shirt on your goose. Best of luck!

Atleast the guy was not stupid enough to take the picture naked and get himself caught in the reflection, like the guy in the tea pot. But doesn't that look like TX in the window behind the LeMans???

I read on some car forum one thread that got something like 300,000 views because someone sincerely posted that they threw sand in the engine and wondered why it won't start. In an even funnier thread a guy armoralled the bottoms of his tires and totalled his Dad's Mercedes ...maybe it is not so funny...

I know it is not the same, especially since the weather has been so nice, maybe an exercycle, a big screen tv, and videos of the Isle of Man, will help get you through this rough period. You could even put on your helmet But follow the doctor's orders, we want to see you well soon.

Or support our forum sponsors... http://www.motointernational.com/MI10-04.htm and get the 03 for cheaper than the used 01. But you would have to, heaven forbid, take a week or two off work to ride it back from Seattle. Oh yah, my I am happy with my 2000, but appreciate the later bikes with more rigid frame, improved relay wiring, and more midrange because of exhaust balance pipe and increased compression.

I don't know if this is faulty logic, but if you look at the intake side and the exhaust side, it is much dirtier on the exhaust side, and I have to imagine that the carbon is abrasive. So even a little sand getting through the K&N is like a drop in the bucket compared to the abrasiveness of the carbon. But then again the carbon should be all small particles....or maybe not, as carbon build up breaks off I have been fearful that damage can occur. All speculation...

Ouch! tough break. FWIW it looks like the gasket is still in the head. I hope you did not burn your exhaust valve. Best of luck.

The Diablos sound great. They implied that the Diablo Corsa has radical handling while the Diablo has "smooth handling". Smooth is what my bike needs. I suppose you should use the Diablo Corsas on your Rosso Corsa, and Diablos on your Sport. But then again the Diablo is a better touring tire... So what are you using where?