dlaing

Bullocks! Newcastle is a fine brew!!!! How much is Assheiser-Bush paying you guys?!? But then again I would take a Guiness over any of the British exports. Do you know that you can get Newcastle Brown Ice Cream?

Can't wait to read your impressions. You will find the dyno tuning will make a huge difference with this muffler. I remember gaining something like six HP because it needed the right mixture. Let me know if need a PCIII map to get started with. How much did it cost after shipping and everything?

Many years ago, my V65 was stolen. I got it back three months later. It was joy rided and crashed, but all the parts were there, and it was rideable. The worst part was paying the $200 impound and towing fee. What a raquet. If it was a popular bike, I am sure it would have been parted out. One benefit of owning a Guzzi. Zeb, I hope you get it back, soon. We feel your pain.

So, last week I got the PCIII back. They fixed it and shipped it back to me for free. The description of the repair was vague. I think they just updated the firmware. There were no visible changes other than they put a sticker on it and a new serial port cover. Great to have it back.

I used to be down on the idea of 2-1 systems, until the Power Commander added the seperate cylinder tuning capability. I am looking forward to your results. I may have to put my serial PCIII and Mistrals up for sale...even if they sound so nice, and go back to the QuatD but with the PCIII USB.

Excellent pictures! I have to learn how to use a camera the way they did, and figure out how to set the shutter speed

Does anybody know anything about this kit from: http://www.motorkit.it/ ?

Congratulations! And you did not even have to clean it to win!!! I took off before the award ceremony, because I am whipped, which just meant that I got delayed by LA traffic.

1. Keep the RPMs up. Even with just the stock lighting, below about 2000rpm you are losing charge. With all that you have on, you probably need 4000 RPM just to break even, if you can even break even 2. Replacing the alternator would be an expensive endeavor, but possible. 3. A Bigger battery will still run out of charge, it will just take longer, but you may be able to get by with charging nightly. 4. Think Green! Be more energy efficient. A LED tail lamp will save you a whopping 4 Watts and even more when you apply the brakes, but momentary useage like brakes, horns, signal lights won't save much going to the battery. An HID headlight will save you about 20 Watts! 5.You might be able to sacrifice some of your heating by putting resistors in line with your clothes. Brush Guards help keep the wind off of your hands. Fairing lowers may be enough for your feet, but it may also be an expensive upgrade.

Here is a link, click here, to photos I took of the rally. A special thanks to all who volunteered their time to make it happen! And another thanks for all who made it special, by attending.

Todd just posted that the rally site got moved to the lower section. So don't get too lost!

25,000 Euros!?! If you buy it in the states from a reputable dealer, it is only about 25,000 US Dollars. Granted due to its rarity, you might have to shop around. I wonder why it costs so much more in Europe. Are they making the bike in Mexico? I wonder how much it would cost to build up a bike like that??? Paul and Zeb have taken their time and patiently sourced or made their own parts, so I am sure they have gotten similar or even better results than the MGS01, for far less money. But yah, instant gratification does not come cheap, and Paul or Zeb might get 25,000 Euros or more for their bikes. There just aren't many people who want a Guzzi, that will pay that much, otherwise Guzzi could mass produce the MGS01, and for a few dollars more, make a road legal version

I'll be there Saturday morning!

Drat! I was gonna buy it and make it into a plaque and hang it on the wall. But I guess you can only do it once. Glad you caught that, Carl

Anyway you slice it, that is a steal. I wish I had some chee$e

I think this explains your snake like tongue but I am not sure about your lengthy endowment. Sue the bastards!!!! But if that lengthy endowment is a a result, send them a thank you card.

Hours later...I made it to Mission 2!!!!

You rescue logs?!? Are they really so valuable!?! Thanks for the sore wrist I can't get passed Mission 1!!! the damn winch man keeps dying on me I have alot of respect for folks like you who can risk your life with motor skills that I don't have. I was trying to land a virtual plane for hours, and my buddy with a pilots license tries the program and lands first shot....

I am pretty sure ex-box means box style exhaust. So, ex-works might mean the complete exhaust system. Hamburger with the works I guess you have seen the complete kit on Quat-D's site: http://www.quat-d.com/prodotto.php?pcode=1...d=89&curr_id=1; They say: "Sottomotore Ex-box Catalizzato" which means undermotor exhaust box with catalytic convertor. I could not find the race version on their website. The Ducati Ex-box looks pretty slick, but is even more expensive, 840 euro

I would test the high RPM voltage output. It should be 14.1-14.6 Volts. If not, there is your problem, or the way your luck is running, one less of your problems....

Not to my knowledge. There was a kind of double walled outlet. But, I did not even think about removing the inner outlet, which could have been a restrictor or catalyst

Hmmm, but then again my managers employee of the year has in her office a humping, orgasming stuffed dog, that is a very funny AND probably even more offensive than the humping Kermit® and friend. One definitely can't have too much humor. Regarding server space, maybe more of us should become GoldMembers Also, if band-width is an issue, one might consider that if you load a photo from v11lemans.com into your signature, or use an avatar, it is going to create alot of band width useage. But maybe bandwidth is free and server space is what costs so much money???

I'd put the pics on my work website but I'd get fired!

I could not find the rear spring part number or brand. I know I can get the spring through Lindeman Engineering and possibly Evoluzione, so unless someone knows otherwise, that is where I will have to shop. But I did find Lex' great suspension setup guide. http://www.geocities.com/motoguzzi1064/Guz...ensionSetUp.htm For the front end, any spring that works in a Yamaha FZ1 should work in our Marazocchi forks. 1.0 KG front and 500 LBS rear seem to be good numbers for a 200 LB rider. I am not sure what a 160 lb rider would need. Perhaps a 0.9 KG front and 450lbs rear.

As the others said, start with sag. When I first got my bike, I thought the springs were too heavy even for my #200+, but then from advice on this forum and others I quickly understood I was undersprung, had too much sag and was bottoming out. The solution for my low budget has been to jack up the rear sag to the point where there is no bike only sag which still leaves me with over 30mm of total sag....curses! I need a heavier spring! But since I am on a low budget, I have to keep the compression damping fairly high. It works ok, but not great. You said the bike is smoother two up. I would not jump to conclusions too quickly based on this. Two up will indeed smooth things out until the point of bottoming out. But it does not mean you are not bottoming out. The extra weight of two up is probably smoothing out the damping. If your sag is right or even stiff, simply dial the compression damping out, and only give it enough rebound to keep it from oscillating. Too much rebound and not enough compression damping or spring rate, and the spring will work its way down towards bottoming out. On the front if you have too much sag you will need overkill damping to prevent bottoming, especially the compression. If you have too little sag in the front try dialing the damping out, especially the compression. That is my low budget fix.... I just ordered an OE sachs shock from eBay to re-spring. I'll have to search the old threads for a part number... Let us know how your sag turns out. A quick and easy to measure sag, although not nearly as accurate as the racetech method, is to put zip ties on one of the front forks and measure how much it moves from the weightless state.(bike on lift, or held up by two strong people while you measure) Or do what I do an yank up on the handlebars to get a visible estimate(highly inaccurate) On the rear shock, simply slide the bottoming bumper up, gently sit on bike while balancing on tip toes, measure the difference of the weightless measurement, and multiply the movement by 2.(since the shock travel roughly half as much as the wheel movement.)