dlaing

And this ceramic coated Quat-D ain't too shabby.

Looking forward to the reply. Here is a picture showing the QuatD advantage of my dog being able to get around the bike barely brushing the shrub....

That would probably work fine if our gearboxes did not drink so much water. I think there was a thread on how to fix that. Rear fender extender helps, but a more rain resistant breather would really help. Does anyone know of a stop leak additive for gear oil that works when there is no gasket? I have been using 80w90-140 or something like that. Perhaps the Redline heavy would leak slower, just because the viscosity is so high when warm????? And the thinner water leaking out the bottom is a Feature

I don't know the thread size. A wild guess is 2.5mm. But for sure, it is reverse threaded. Did you ever notice the Luigi emoticon is left handed?

Mine is like Mike's and Tx The connector is toward the rear and facing up, ready for easy power commander attachment! I thought all the 2001/2002 were like that....guess I was wrong. But it might be a good idea to flip it over to protect the wiring, plus it looks better cooling fins up

"...no ignition" Also, a riot: "Q: This is the only one in the U.S.??????????????????????? speakerscycles Low Miler Joined: 09 Feb 2005 Posts: 65 Location: Steubenville, Ohio Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2005 9:48 am Post subject: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Don't belive this as it is just some one trying to make a few Thousand off of uninformed buyers. 6 arrived in the USA on the same boat and 4 more are to follow soon and another 20 to follow late this year. But if some one is that impaticent that they are willing to spent $40,500 over MSRP then got bless him he found his sucker. Who every buys that one I will sell them some ocean front property in Kansas so he can build his own race track. _________________ Jason Speaker Speaker's Cycles 1255 State Route 213 Steubenville, OH 43952 (740) 282-5399 1977 Honda Z50 1977 Moto Guzzi Convert 1979 Moto Guzzi SP 1000 (project) 1999 KTM 300 EXC Answered on Mar-16-05 A: Are you always this mean and rude? I said it's the only I know of in the US, I have since found out there are more in the US with others on the way. Did you post your "question" just for a little feeling of power or what?" Way to go Jason! Somebody had to put the guy in his place before someone got suckered.

I should retrofit one of these switches. Maybe when I put in the dedicated headlight relays There have been a few times when my bike has sat for weeks and I want to make sure it gets a good charge, so I just disconnect the headlight and ride...piece of cake on a sport, but not on a lemans. But if there is a cop, I can't just quickly turn it back on...but it might be too late by then anyway...

My picks are in ascending order of favorites for reasons of nostalgia, which is what is 'best' for me. I am guessing at the years... 1976 Vespa 250, first bike I ever rode (and crashed) friend's bike 1970 Honda CT90, second bike I ever rode (and crashed) 1973 Honda SL125, third bike I ever rode (and crashed) and 1st road legal bike 1973 Honda CB500F, fourth bike I ever rode (and crashed) Paid $900 for it when it only had 1000 miles on it! 2000 MG Jackal 1984 MG V65SP fifth bike I ever rode (and fifth bike crashed) and first bike I ever bought new. 1972 Norton Commando 850 1994 BMW R100GS 2000 MG V11S the best! well almost... MGS01 the best( I can only assume till I ride one...)

You could try contacting Arnold Barnhardt (spelling???) at Ghezzi Brian North America His address is on one of my old posts re quat-d You could also email: gheb.info at ghezzi-brian.com email address modified to FOOL the spammeisters.

A sucker is born, everyday. But I don't believe this guy can find a sucker who rides a Guzzi! But if those were Taiwan Dollars, it might be a fair price.

I wonder if the European bikes have a different wiring diagram. I have heard people say they have a switch to turn the headlights off, but the North American models don't have that. It could make a difference, and explain why the Siemmens are still working.

If you add it all up the 'relay' is very close to under-rated, but it is the relay that is closest to being under-rated of the set. If you turn on the low beam, flash the high beam and hit the brake you have 50w +65w +21w = 136w which is pretty close to 10 amps, and maybe a little more. However most people do not hit the flasher while braking, but they might hit the horn and brake. I have no idea how many amps the horn pulls. Of course if you have the low beam on, hit the horn, the brake and the flasher, you are well over 10amps. And if you never simultaneously hit the brake and flasher, or brake and horn , or horn and flasher, you should be fine. But the starter solenoid draws about 17amps, which is kind of close to the 20amp rating... According to http://www.webbikeworld.com/Motorcycle-tec...light-bulbs.htm brakelights vary from the OE 21/5 at 1.86amps to a 2397 at 2.23amps. I run an 1157 which uses 2.1 amps If you replace the brake light with an LED you could probably extend your relay life. You could also do the headlight relay modification and be done with the overload on the starter relay. And or you get the GEI relay which is an easy fix. I don't know if Dan will ship to Europe, but I suspect it is worth a try as the package is very small. From Dan's FAQ: Why do you no longer carry the Bosch 0-332-207-307 relays? Some newer Guzzi's run the lights (headlight, tail light, dash lighting) through the Normally Closed starter relay contacts (Terminal 87a) rather than through a separate headlight relay. While the lighting load is less than the 10 amp rating of the Bosch, it is uncomfortably close. Further, the Valeo starter solenoid draws about 17 amps, which again is uncomfortably close to the 20 amp rating on the Bosch Normally Open contacts. So why do you now carry the Greenwich Electronics relay? Because it is rated for a greater load than the Bosch. The NO terminals (30 & 87) are rated at 25 amps on the GEI vs. 20 amps on the Bosch. The NC terminal (87a) is rated at 20 amps on the GEI, but only 10 amps on the Bosch.

Our Guzzi bro' Pyro Dan sells them dirt cheap, bless him and the bike he rode in on. http://www.dpguzzi.com/relay.htm I am going to order some more from him so I can have complete set of GEI relays

I am using one GEI relay for the starter relay and the rest are Bosch. The Bosch have failed when used as a starter relay. The Siemmens failed me but, I believe it has more to do with the wiring layout. On the 1999/2000/2001 bikes, too much electricity flows through the starter relay to the lighting when one either uses the horn or the flasher while the high beam is on. If you seldom use the horn or the flasher, you will not be as likely to have problems with your starter relay. But the relays are still subject to a lot of vibration and may otherwise fail...as TX' did. Later bikes, 2002???/2003/2004 have improved wiring and a better relay mounting point. My GEI relay has worked flawlessly, despite my deliberately driving around with the flasher button held down. Even after the change from Siemmens, I will not go anywhere without a spare as some of my Bosch have been flakey, too. But it too, probably has more to do with wiring problems than bad relay manufacturing. Also, Siemmens does make many excellent products and Guzzi probably just got hold of some that were mildly defective. So, yours are obviously fine, and probably just as well made as the Bosch, so stick with them, but do carry a spare. FWIW, since I eliminated the kickstand/neutral safety switch, I no longer need one of the relays. So that one acts as a spare. Yah, it gets some wear and tear, as it is activated when the bike goes into neutral, but little current flows through it as half the current flows through a different path, where the kickstand switch was. I suppose I could disconnect the wires, but why bother.

duh Sorry my brain was not working right. I should not have read 'seal' as gasket... thanx

Regarding Leak #3: Is there supposed to be a gasket???

Congrats! You have earned four Jolly Wrenchers!!!!

Thanks! I don't ride much in the rain, but this winter has been an exception... (EDIT 7/3/07 the non-waterproof switch is still going strong!!! But the best news is that Pyro Dan sells them cheap, http://www.dpguzzi.com/switch.htm So, I better order one before the rain finally kills my RadioShlock switch) Following the link to Elfa they showed an Omron switch. So, I did a quick search and found from: http://www.mouser.com/ Mouser Part #: 653-D2SW-3HS Mfr. Part #: D2SW-3HS Mfr.: Omron Electronics LLC oops those numbers are for solder connection For terminal, use: Mouser Part #: 653-D2SW-3TS Mfr. Part #: D2SW-3TS They also have the wire on type for those who like to solder...

After waiting many weeks for a replacement front brake switch, someone on this forum suggested going to an electronics store and getting a switch there. So, off to Radio Shack® I went and found: part number 275-016A Submini Lever Switch SPDT (single pole double throw) rated at 5A at 125/250VAC EDIT: please note that it is not water tight. Water resistant ones are listed later in this discussion. Cherry® was the OE MG part number 30 74 98 60 and Zippi® is the Radio Shack® I had to yank out the switch guide. And I snipped the NO (normally open) terminal. Because the Zippi® male terminals were a little too short, I filed down the white insulated female terminal insulators so the connectors could go on far enough. Here is a picture before the filing, The after the filing shot was too fuzzy...damn auto-focus! If anyone knows of any other replacement part numbers, please post. I imagine there are some Ducati part numbers that might match up, too.

My beam pattern is better without it....at least for me. As for the oncoming cars, I am not getting flashed for being to bright, so I think it is better off without.

Yah, I apologize. I exaggerated a little bit. I just get ticked off if someone calls my parts crap when they work great for me. If someone calls our bike crap we would give them an argument, unless we are the ones with the cursed lemons. My bike has been on the road for over 4 years and 25,000 miles and most of the parts are doing fine. I can forgive you for calling the damper crap if you have had two fail, I 'd call it crap, too. But I think you and your dealer just had bad luck and there was a bad batch. A bad batch is probably what happened with the three or four Sachs shocks that cracked. It does not mean that the 99% of Sachs shocks that won't crack are crap. Someone just posted problems with PCIIIs, yet it would not be fair to call them crap. Gthyni called the Bitubo crap, apparently because of the performance or lack there of. He is comparing it to the best dampers money can buy. Is anything less crap!?! I am comparing it to the old friction dampers of yesterday. So, in my book it is HIGH-PERFORMANCE and reliable. Crap is too strong a word. That is my story and I am sticking too it.

First Annual SoCal “No Dam Excuses” Guzzi Rally March 25-27, 2005 Location: Castaic (Lake/Dam), CA Thanks for the offer. But I am not sure I can make it....working on my Dam Excuses... Maybe I can buy a recorder. I have been thinking of buying one just to cover my @ss at work, so now may be a good time.

The lack of Tuning Link dynos down under may help explain why FIM, TuneBoy, and MY15 all come from downunder! If Dyna does not fix my PCIII, I may consider the alternative. But it is soooo easy to go to a Tuning Link dyno here. And I know the downloaded PC Maps improved my bike. Setting the TPS and other settings to match the bike that produced the map is important. I wish map posters would spec all their settings, so that people don't get an improvement in some areas and problems in other areas of the map. What I may do is splurge and get both a PCIII and tune boy so that my PCIII can sit on a shelf. Gotta get that tax refund!

Thanks for the reply I am still sceptical. Sorry about misplacing your nation's fine product to the credit of the dutch. My one experience with an Ohlins upgrade was on a BMW 100GS and it totally transformed the bike, so maybe there is something to be said about quality. But I thought it had more to do with design than mechanical specs. So, in about twenty years I will have finished removing all the crap from my bike, but by then half of replacement parts will be osolete crap. But the Bitubo is about the last thing on my dream list:wacko: I just have to make more money. The American dollar is biting. It might be a good time to look at some American products...Is Penske American? Or I may go with a Works shock....

Excellent insight. The cage driver should have been more alert to the second bike. But I still attribute 98% of the fault to the second bike. The first bike gets 1% for being a lousy leader and suv gets 1% for not predicting such an idiotic move. Riding in groups can be a challenge. There is a tendency in groups to automatically follow the leader when one should always ride ones own ride and keep a safe buffer. NEVER pass where someone could turn left(UK, Japan, etc. read right). One of the biggest faults I see is that passer often don't check their mirror to see if they are getting passed before they pass. I have enjoyed the thrill of using the oncoming shoulder as a passing lane a few times because the people I was passing did not check there mirror before passing. Kinda fun actually. And it is my obligation to be prepared to use the oncoming shoulder. Always have an escape route.(not sure if I live up to that...but good to preach) Ride well!