dlaing

I get tired of people saying that half the parts on our bike our crap. I get the impression that people think that: The OE tires are crap, the 2000/2001 frames are crap, the front brake disks and pads are crap, the rear brakes pads and disks are crap, the wheels are crap, the rear shock is crap, the front forks are crap, the handlebars are crap, the headlight is crap, the turn signals are crap, the stock mirrors are crap, the seat is crap, the ECU map is crap the paint is crap, the valves are crap, the porting is crap, the crank rods are crap, the rear brake lever is crap, the fuel pump position is crap, the rubber intake manifolds are crap, etc. While many of the things above can be improved on, crap is too strong a term. Sure if I had an extra $20000, I'd replace everything on that list. And eventually I just might... Some things that I think really are crap are: The original aluminum oil cooler brackets are crap. The tachometer is crap. The oil breather line is crap. The wiring design of the lighting wiring through the starter relay on early bikes is crap. That is my opinion and I am sticking to it, until I start replacing other parts.... Of course if you had more than one steering damper go bad, I guess you have the right to call it crap, but my piece of crap damper is doing just fine, and even makes an excellent steering stop by bodging it with a hose clamp!

If you can hang out till after the Castaic Lake Rally perhaps we can get more evidence.... Anybody with a good tape recorder? iPod with microphone? Maybe just more two cent opinions... If you are anxious, order the Stucchi crossover now, but wait until you hear for yourself some of the slip on options.

I am dying to get my hands on a pair of connectors to hook up with the TPS, and will gladly pay you Tuesday for a Hamburger today. I want to make a pair of access lines for measuring TPS. I could just splice into the lines and solder it up. But a temporary line jack would be more ideal for setting TPS and I could carry it with me to rallys and impress our buddies with the ease of TPS measurement!!! The TPS is the only place that I can imagine is very sensitive to voltage drops.

E3 compliant? Where are you getting your facts?

Absolutely no paranoia required. Mine failing could be my own fault as the seat may have damaged the wire and my velcro came unglued and the unit bounced around getting dinged up. Plus with the number of relay failures I have had, the electrical system could be at fault too.

That is a fact. The recording magifies the metallic sound. And yah, the Mistrals sound much better than the Quat-D road legal muffler. Another fact. But the Quat-D does something for the rider experience that can only be experienced. My bike is a comparative bore since I switched to Mistrals.

Does anyone who is going to Castaic Lake Rally have a decibel meter and decent sound recording equipment? I know my digital camera's microphone is CRAP. If you are worried about power, I don't think you will find a huge difference between the choice of slip on cans. The crossovers seem to make the biggest difference to the powerband, based on the "facts". Here are some facts, From my observations at the Arizona Rally two years ago: The Quat-D is louder than stock. But tinnier sounding. The MG Ti is louder than the Quat-D. And less tinny. The Mistral Carbons are louder than the MG-Ti. And less tinny. I felt that the FBF carbons on the MotoEuro bike were louder than the Mistrals, but I was not sure. The MotoEuro's engine had higher compression, FBF valves and porting, and open airbox lid, which may have made the difference that I had heard. Now that I think about it, the comparison of the Ti and the Mistral could have been invalidated by other mods. Oh sh^t! sorry, we still need facts. Does anyone agree with my observations? If enough do, we could call it factual. Fact 1.The Stucchi crossover makes any system louder and better performing than the stock crossover. I think we can safely assume the same for the FBF crossover. Fact 2. Removing the airbox lid makes it much louder from the rider's perspective and perform better on the dyno.

Dang!!! Good deal! On some old posts people were saying a big advantage of the WP over the Sachs is availability of parts for rebuilds and fine tuning. Does anyone know how the shock travel and shock lengths compare?

How do you know that? I am very happy with my Bitubo. I set it just loose enough that it does not interfere with slow parking lot maneuvers and it seems to knock the shakes off just a little at high speeds. You seem to imply that I could get an even looser but steadier feel with one that is not 'crap'. I understand how an old friction damper cannot compare to a hydraulic damped unit. But I have trouble understanding how one could even engineer a better one than the Bitubo. In order to work better it seems that a damper would have to recognize the difference between rider input and an oscillation. I find it difficult to believe the Dutch makers have got it figured out while Bitubo simply make "crap". But then again you have had both and I have not. Perhaps it is kind of like high speed vs. low speed damping in shock absorbers...something I still don't understand.

That sounds similar to my symptoms. I checked wire, no visible metal. I reloaded the zero map, no go. I reloaded the mistral map, no go. I think mine is over three years old, so it is way past warranty. I emailed Todd and he suggested sending it in. They will check it out for free, and possibly offer a reduced replacement cost. I sent mine in Saturday. I'll let you know how it turns out. I hope to get it back before the Castaic Lake Rally.

Could be it just needs to be torqued down or loctited. I have not had one apart, but I imagine your condition is normal and it had just come loose, kind of like our tripmeter reset, although that is reversed threaded, so it confuse me

I haven't tried that. Does that enhance the vibrations for her?

My experience is that I gained bottom end(but not measured), mid range (measured) and lost from 5000 rpm on up(measured). But I was not measuring against my own bike, just another stock guzzi. I think it is a greater engineering challenge to get power out of short package, but possible, with a well tuned and dampened labyrinth. Certainly, the result was a compromise and not a total loss. On stretches that I would hit 130mph with stock mufflers, I was hitting 125mph. Not a huge difference. The Quat-D does have other advantages. 1) If you drop your bike, the expensive muffler is not the first thing to go. 2) Saddle bags can be mounted lower, so the bike handles better. 3) Center of gravity is lowered and more forward, so the bike handles better. 4) Doubles as a leaf blower Another point is that although it cost more than most slip-ons, it costs less than most slip-ons and a Stucchi cross-over. But yah, I too would like to see more peak power out of it. Sorry to hear that the race version is just a hollow box. You might be better off taking a Stucchi crossover, adding a couple of restrictors and praying you don't get hit with a noise citation.

If the tuner is willing... I think the Aprillia forum people ran into problems with Tuning Link dyno operators refusing to do it.

There is more than just the Power Commander. You can also get: Cliff's programmable and expandable ECU. Advantage the ultimate TechnoResearch's diagnostic and mapping software(fuel and ignition) Advantage long history with our ECU TuneBoy diagnostic and mapping software(fuel and ignition) Advantage a bargain and atleast one tuner uses it. FIM mapping(not sure if it does ignition on a Guzzi) Advantage alot of tuners use it The Power Commander's big advantage is Tuning Link which is about the cheapest way to a better tuned map. I have a map you can use from my 2000V11S It had the first version QuatD for the V11S. It had the FBF airbox lid removal kit with BMC filter. Serial PCIII Valves set to 0.15/0.20mm TPS apparently set low at 260mv at 1000RPM Just buy one of the above products and plug in these numbers Note that I had to enrichen some of the numbers because I was getting pinging from 5000 to 6000 RPMs Also you should enrichen the 0%throttle to help smooth out throttle transitioning. You should be able to get a downloadable Toddified improved version of this map from Todd at Guzzitech.com Or if I put my PC on the net, I could send it to you. But I try to keep viruses,etc off my dedicated Guzzi computer. And I would have to drag it in from the garage... 0 2 5 10 20 40 60 80 100 500 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1000 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1500 0 26 23 14 27 11 17 20 20 2000 0 0 17 0 5 -3 -2 -12 2 2500 0 0 15 17 -2 2 9 3 17 3000 0 0 0 20 1 17 15 21 29 3500 0 0 0 11 5 3 15 11 15 4000 0 0 0 17 7 1 14 22 24 4500 0 0 0 18 13 4 9 15 4 5000 0 0 0 18 20 4 -3 -6 -1 5500 0 0 0 0 24 1 -6 -7 -4 6000 0 0 0 0 0 1 -8 -6 -7 7000 0 0 0 0 0 -2 -2 -13 -10 8000 0 0 0 0 0 0 -3 -14 -17 Virtual PC is supposed to work. But I have not tried it...yet! I would go with a race version if it is available. I know they have a race version for the Ghezzi-Brian, but I am not sure they have one to fit our bikes. My Quat-D had less peak power than stock, but below 5000 RPMs it had a nice improvement to the bike's torque. You could really feel the difference putsing along at 40-50MPH in sixth gear. With my Mistrals I feel I have to downshift to keep the RPMs above 3000 even when cruizin'. http://www.guzzitech.com/Quat-D_David-L.html has some dyno charts.

Sorry Tom, have wee been ignoring you? The plug wire just pushes in and pulls out of the coil. You might not even have to lift the tank????

This is a little smaller than the Isuzu and Pathfinder filters, and probably about the same size as the Beemer filter. But hunt around and you may find something smaller Here are the specs on the Wix Part Number: 33032 UPC Number: 765809330320 Principal Application: ABG Construction Equipment, Ford Festiva (88-91), Various Early Model Import and Domestic (Universal 5/16 in. In-Line w/Hoses and Clamps) All Applications Style: Fuel (Complete In-Line) Filter Service: Fuel Height: 3.862 Outer Diameter Top: 1.936 FWIW Festiva's are made by Kia

Here is a photo of a Deutsch FF424, about the same size as an Isuzu Trooper filter: Goto http://ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/ and look at the external fuel filter articles. And from here I found some more cross refs that should work with our bike http://www.users.waitrose.com/~paso/parts.htm) : BMW K100RS part number: 13 32 1 461 265 (8mm) or 16142325859, Purolator F20011, AC GF61, Fram G2, Motorcraft FG-2, Wix 33032, CarQuest E2036 (mid-80's Ford Ranger. Fram part number G2). For the 916: Mahle KL 24/1, approximately about 10/15 mm longer than the stock item, it has a 50mm diameter. You may be able to find the dimensions from the manufacturers' web sites

And for under $500 (US) you could use a BMW fairing JRT's bike!

http://www.magni.it/v11_fairing.htm Beautiful! sorry, I just had to post it. I saw a silver one in San Francisco last month....

I am using NAPA gold FIL3023 that cross references a Nissan Pathfinder Height (Inches): 4.803'' Height (mm): 121.99MM O.D. (Inches): 2.205'' O.D. (mm): 56MM Inlet Thread Size (Inches): .312'' Inlet Thread Size (mm): 8.000MM Outlet Thread Size (Inches): .312'' Outlet Thread Size (mm): 8.000MM The height includes the (unthreaded) hose connectors So the body is much shorter than the OE weber The Isuzu is specified to be a little slimmer(so it need shimming in the harnass) but a little longer: Napa gold 3310 Height (Inches): 5.56'' Height (mm): 141.22mm O.D. (Inches): 2.16'' O.D. (mm): 54.86mm Inlet Thread Size (Inches): .312'' Inlet Thread Size (mm): 7.937mm Outlet Thread Size (Inches): .312'' Outlet Thread Size (mm): 7.937mm

Definately worth it! But hard to explain to the wife...

There is probably an air temperature switch dangling under the tank somewhere. I would just aim it roughly in the direction of the pod air filters. Whoever removed the airbox should also have done something with your oil breather line. You might want to find out where they put it. Where are people putting the breather line? Just letting it drip unto the top of the engine?

I am pretty sure it is not powered off of the clutch switch. It is however powered through the neutral/kickstand relay, kickstand switch, kill switch and ignition switch. So, if you start toasting all of those switches by running too many amps, you will be in for a 'world of pain'

Yep. Thanks for the clarification. And I think you make a good point about the Stucchi being built like a tank. I can't imagine anything being stronger, which is a big plus for me since I have had to go to a welder for both my Quat-D and my stock crossover. The only thing holding me back from getting the Stucchi is the desire for an under gearbox set up.